Holset wh1e (hx40) on an FC
12-09-10, 05:35 AM
#1
Holset wh1e (hx40) on an FC
I am currently in the process of purchasing Catch-22's old Holset Wh1e (hx40) turbo, he's going Big or going Home with his new BW s475. Right now my motor is a stock Mazda reman with a little under 30k, last compression test was right around 100psi on both rotors so the motor is still strong. I should note that I fully plan on rebuilding the motor and having it ported to compensate for this larger turbo hopefully next summer.
With that said, this will be my first custom turbo setup. I installed a BNR stage III, but that's just a straight bolt up. I haven't been able to find hardly any information from the FC crowd with people who have done this swap before. I would like to know what type of manifolds I should be looking at or if I should attempt to get one fabricated? Any suggestions on oil and water lines? I also have a JIC Titanium Bullet 90 3.5 inch race exhaust system (only 6 imported into the U.S.) that I would hate to cut up even if it was done very nicely. What type of methods are there for extending your downpipe to fit up to the new turbo placement?
I'm fully aware of the extra fuel needs of this turbo over mine therefore I won't be running at nearly as high of boost pressures (7-10 psi max) until I make the appropriate upgrades and get the motor rebuilt to suite this turbo.
Thanks guys,
~Ant
With that said, this will be my first custom turbo setup. I installed a BNR stage III, but that's just a straight bolt up. I haven't been able to find hardly any information from the FC crowd with people who have done this swap before. I would like to know what type of manifolds I should be looking at or if I should attempt to get one fabricated? Any suggestions on oil and water lines? I also have a JIC Titanium Bullet 90 3.5 inch race exhaust system (only 6 imported into the U.S.) that I would hate to cut up even if it was done very nicely. What type of methods are there for extending your downpipe to fit up to the new turbo placement?
I'm fully aware of the extra fuel needs of this turbo over mine therefore I won't be running at nearly as high of boost pressures (7-10 psi max) until I make the appropriate upgrades and get the motor rebuilt to suite this turbo.
Thanks guys,
~Ant
12-09-10, 01:05 PM
#2
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I'm running an HX40 with a Shook Racing Manifold and a custom turbo back from Shook Racing too.
http://shookmotorsports.com/FCProducts
There's the manifold I'm running...and if you look at his pictures that's my turbo I sent him and he built the exhaust. Not my car, but the exhaust, wastegate and manifold are all mine
http://shookmotorsports.com/current
^Exhaust he built me
I've still got to clean up the engine bay once schools out, but so far it's been a FUN setup. Makes me regret ever going BNR.
For a hybrid turbo setup like this you'll need a manifold with external wastegate port. Wastegate, turbo, downpipe fabbed to fit your current exhaust or make a whole new exhaust, oil feed line and fittings, oil drain line and fittings, new intake filter (4"), more fuel, DEFINITELY need stuff to block heat. I didn't do that and ended up melting ****....learn from my mistakes lol. I got a turbo blanket, fire sleeve for anything that's near the hotside, and tons of heat wrap.
If you have any questions add my msn/aim or just pm me on here.
http://shookmotorsports.com/FCProducts
There's the manifold I'm running...and if you look at his pictures that's my turbo I sent him and he built the exhaust. Not my car, but the exhaust, wastegate and manifold are all mine
http://shookmotorsports.com/current
^Exhaust he built me
I've still got to clean up the engine bay once schools out, but so far it's been a FUN setup. Makes me regret ever going BNR.
For a hybrid turbo setup like this you'll need a manifold with external wastegate port. Wastegate, turbo, downpipe fabbed to fit your current exhaust or make a whole new exhaust, oil feed line and fittings, oil drain line and fittings, new intake filter (4"), more fuel, DEFINITELY need stuff to block heat. I didn't do that and ended up melting ****....learn from my mistakes lol. I got a turbo blanket, fire sleeve for anything that's near the hotside, and tons of heat wrap.
If you have any questions add my msn/aim or just pm me on here.
12-11-10, 06:52 AM
#3
Great info man! How would you compare the usable power band between the holset and the BNR? Right now I'm getting full boost right around 3700 rpms but after cruisin with a group of FD's all runnin diesel turbos I'm itchin for more power as well haha
12-11-10, 10:11 AM
#4
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I love the idea of running these Holset turbos, but I'm afraid that it will turn the car into a off/on switch. From everything I've read, these turbos hit like sledge hammers and limit your usable powerband. I don't feel like ripping tire every time I want to use some boost.
Have you had the same experience with your setup?
Have you had the same experience with your setup?
12-11-10, 03:19 PM
#5
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Gotta work on throttle control. And my "on off switch" is at about 3500 rpm...I'd say I start to build boost right before 3k rpm and it's full boost by like 3700 rpm. When I said on off switch I meant I got all the power down low right away. It is definitely scary for me coming out of corners I used to be able to nearly floor it out of. I have to be a lot more careful or I'll break traction...though I think that's just what driving any 400+ hp car is like.
The only thing I remember about my BNR setup is like I said in the other thread-it just didn't feel responsive compared to my Holset.
The only thing I remember about my BNR setup is like I said in the other thread-it just didn't feel responsive compared to my Holset.
12-12-10, 07:14 PM
#6
Gotta work on throttle control. And my "on off switch" is at about 3500 rpm...I'd say I start to build boost right before 3k rpm and it's full boost by like 3700 rpm. When I said on off switch I meant I got all the power down low right away. It is definitely scary for me coming out of corners I used to be able to nearly floor it out of. I have to be a lot more careful or I'll break traction...though I think that's just what driving any 400+ hp car is like.
The only thing I remember about my BNR setup is like I said in the other thread-it just didn't feel responsive compared to my Holset.
The only thing I remember about my BNR setup is like I said in the other thread-it just didn't feel responsive compared to my Holset.
Btw, wut injector size and fuel management r u runnin?
12-13-10, 12:08 AM
#7
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I'll post a video with my dyno lol...but I'm running a rewired Cosmo pump, 720/1000 injectors, aeromotive fpr, Microtech Lt8s ecu...I'll definitely need a boost-a-pump and some 1680s for secondaries if I want more power though.
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12-19-10, 02:24 AM
#8
Just picked up the turbo yesterday! I'll post some pics of it next chance I get... I also found the manifold I'll most likely be using.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...3BCD3TS9XZDK4V
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00...3BCD3TS9XZDK4V
12-19-10, 07:17 AM
#9
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Personally I wouldn't use that manifold..I'm all for using cheaper alternatives, hence me using a Holset over a Garrett, but the manifolds always crack unless they're top quality. I mean mine was $500, which is still cheap, but the maker said he'd warranty it for me if it cracked. Seemed really confident it wouldn't.
12-19-10, 10:44 AM
#10
Cool Ant I hope all goes well 
LOL And back to the cheaper manifolds
I'm running a Ebay OBX manifold, Its seen some hard Dyno pulls and 28+ psi
and its been on it for 3 years so, maybe OBX makes good cheap manifolds
LOL who knows. I just know mines never cracked.
LOL And back to the cheaper manifoldsI'm running a Ebay OBX manifold, Its seen some hard Dyno pulls and 28+ psi
and its been on it for 3 years so, maybe OBX makes good cheap manifolds
LOL who knows. I just know mines never cracked.
12-19-10, 01:09 PM
#11
they do use cheaper materials still but they aren't a bad alternative if you don't mind swapping them out every few years(assuming they still are making them a few years down the road). i ran one of the original SSautochrome manifolds for about 3 years but it eventually stress cracked from the heat cycling, so be prepared.
BUT even high quality stainless manifolds that you may pay $500-1000 for will crack also, i don't know why people spend that much on a custom manifold(nick, lol). cast irons is the only material that can last for decades while taking the abuse. unfortunately i don't think there is any divided cast manifold out there yet still.
BUT even high quality stainless manifolds that you may pay $500-1000 for will crack also, i don't know why people spend that much on a custom manifold(nick, lol). cast irons is the only material that can last for decades while taking the abuse. unfortunately i don't think there is any divided cast manifold out there yet still.
12-20-10, 10:51 AM
#14
serials...
do any of you guys have serial numbers for the Holset turbo's you are running, I've been trying to order one through a cummins dealer but they keep asking me for an engine serial number!!!
I'm not sure if they like to sell turbo's off the shelf to go on any old engine, I've dealt with cummins for marine diesel engines and they don't like to give much information away.
Any help would be good.
I'm not sure if they like to sell turbo's off the shelf to go on any old engine, I've dealt with cummins for marine diesel engines and they don't like to give much information away.
Any help would be good.
12-21-10, 01:45 PM
#16
Orange: my serial number is H 1490681
Well, looks like I've had a little too much fun in the past year. I've noticed lately that my vacuum has been getting less and less so I went ahead and did a compression test this morning. 84 on the front rotor and 80 on the rear, this same time last year it was 99 and 101 respectively. Must have worn out my apex springs, either way this swap we be delayed for a little while lol.
Well, looks like I've had a little too much fun in the past year. I've noticed lately that my vacuum has been getting less and less so I went ahead and did a compression test this morning. 84 on the front rotor and 80 on the rear, this same time last year it was 99 and 101 respectively. Must have worn out my apex springs, either way this swap we be delayed for a little while lol.
01-08-11, 03:39 PM
#17
Orange: my serial number is H 1490681
Well, looks like I've had a little too much fun in the past year. I've noticed lately that my vacuum has been getting less and less so I went ahead and did a compression test this morning. 84 on the front rotor and 80 on the rear, this same time last year it was 99 and 101 respectively. Must have worn out my apex springs, either way this swap we be delayed for a little while lol.
Well, looks like I've had a little too much fun in the past year. I've noticed lately that my vacuum has been getting less and less so I went ahead and did a compression test this morning. 84 on the front rotor and 80 on the rear, this same time last year it was 99 and 101 respectively. Must have worn out my apex springs, either way this swap we be delayed for a little while lol.
01-23-11, 11:19 AM
#19
We've actually gotta a little crew of guys that play around every week lol. 3 FD's makin close to or over 500 rwhp and several FC's one of which is right around 400 whp all tuned by Brian at Rotorsports (including myself). PM me sometime and we'll meet up!
