GT35R Here I come! :D
#303
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I think they took the link off the site, but you can get there directly:
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
The actual seller's info (if he's still selling these):
Richard Sohn
PCV Technologies, Inc.
8029 HWY 1087, DeFuniak Springs, FL 32433.
Tel/Fax(850)834-4905
email: unicorn@gdsys.net
http://www.rotaryaviation.com/oil_in...p_adaptors.htm
The actual seller's info (if he's still selling these):
Richard Sohn
PCV Technologies, Inc.
8029 HWY 1087, DeFuniak Springs, FL 32433.
Tel/Fax(850)834-4905
email: unicorn@gdsys.net
#304
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
So it's been a bit since I've posted some updates, but I've found out some things that may help others.
1. Don't use ss braided lines to the turbo, they transfer quite a bit of heat through the aluminum fittings and stainless wrap. If you do, make sure to shield them (very well). I found that one side the hose inside got so brittle that it started to leak slightly. Lucky I found this out while I was putting everything back together.
2. The Knighsports Metallit cat worked great for cleaning the exhaust but it caused quite a bit of backpressure compared to the new SMB Metallic cat with resonator. I picked up quite a bit of power just with that swap and a little bit more tuning. (see dyno chart). The SMB is a bit quieter, but it still drones.
3. Vasoline on injector O-rings is not good. The Bosch injectors I got had some yellow O-rings on top. When I assembled them, after a few thousand miles I was getting a faint fuel smell but no leaks anywhere. When I took the fuel lines / rails apart, I found that the yellow O-rings were soft and you could see some of the yellow on your fingers. I replaced all the O-rings with viton ones and used a silicone lubricant.
4. Turbo blankets fall apart. Quicly. I decided to replace it with a custom Inconel heat shielding. They made a shield for the exhaust manifold, all the way around the turbo, the downpipe, and even one for the wastegate. It doesn't hold in as much heat as a blanket, but I think that is better for the longevity of the turbo.
5. Need for an oil catch can. I noticed that I was getting oil into the turbo with the stock route for venting, but I never had any oil blow-by.
The only other things I changed were that I painted the rails, rerouted the fuel lines, used black fittings, covered the lines with shrink tubing, and the PITA move of the FPR to under the UIM. Overall it turned out great; but it's like a Chinese puzzle box to take everything apart!
Those are the only things I changed and I had it re-tuned for light throttle improvement and to make sure that I still had enough fuel with the new SMB. Steve had to add about 5+% more fuel at the higher levels to cover the increased flow from the SMB.
Here's the dyno with the Knightsports:
Here's the dyno after switching to the SMB:
Here's some pics of the hose re-routing and the turbo shielding:
1. Don't use ss braided lines to the turbo, they transfer quite a bit of heat through the aluminum fittings and stainless wrap. If you do, make sure to shield them (very well). I found that one side the hose inside got so brittle that it started to leak slightly. Lucky I found this out while I was putting everything back together.
2. The Knighsports Metallit cat worked great for cleaning the exhaust but it caused quite a bit of backpressure compared to the new SMB Metallic cat with resonator. I picked up quite a bit of power just with that swap and a little bit more tuning. (see dyno chart). The SMB is a bit quieter, but it still drones.
3. Vasoline on injector O-rings is not good. The Bosch injectors I got had some yellow O-rings on top. When I assembled them, after a few thousand miles I was getting a faint fuel smell but no leaks anywhere. When I took the fuel lines / rails apart, I found that the yellow O-rings were soft and you could see some of the yellow on your fingers. I replaced all the O-rings with viton ones and used a silicone lubricant.
4. Turbo blankets fall apart. Quicly. I decided to replace it with a custom Inconel heat shielding. They made a shield for the exhaust manifold, all the way around the turbo, the downpipe, and even one for the wastegate. It doesn't hold in as much heat as a blanket, but I think that is better for the longevity of the turbo.
5. Need for an oil catch can. I noticed that I was getting oil into the turbo with the stock route for venting, but I never had any oil blow-by.
The only other things I changed were that I painted the rails, rerouted the fuel lines, used black fittings, covered the lines with shrink tubing, and the PITA move of the FPR to under the UIM. Overall it turned out great; but it's like a Chinese puzzle box to take everything apart!
Those are the only things I changed and I had it re-tuned for light throttle improvement and to make sure that I still had enough fuel with the new SMB. Steve had to add about 5+% more fuel at the higher levels to cover the increased flow from the SMB.
Here's the dyno with the Knightsports:
Here's the dyno after switching to the SMB:
Here's some pics of the hose re-routing and the turbo shielding:
Last edited by atihun; 01-31-08 at 02:26 PM.
#308
Fast + Reliable = $$$$$
iTrader: (18)
Good numbers Attila! I have a similar set-up (500r) that Steve tuned the day before yours. I'm very impressed by that cat you have...does it also cut the smell pretty well?
Also, if you don't mind me asking, how much did all that turbo shielding cost and where did you find it? It looks so OEM.
Also, if you don't mind me asking, how much did all that turbo shielding cost and where did you find it? It looks so OEM.
#310
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
How did the 500r do?
The cat did pretty good in that enclosed area. It does a good job when the car/cat is fully warmed up. You can't smell it when standing by the rear of the car outside.
The only thing I noticed is that Steve likes to set the idle afr around 12. My car doesn't like 12; this also leads to low 11's in cold mornings due to fuel enrichment / temps. At 11's the car stumbles like crazy at idle, and stunk like fuel. I pulled out about 0.15 from the correction map, and it's up to 13.5 and it idles so much nicer.
As for the Inconel shielding, well it was custom. The place is right down the street from me (atpwrap.com). I took them the turbo an manifold. They had it for 3 days, and they made a shield for the exhaust manifold, a little cover for the top side of the manifold flange to the engine, a custom turbo to manifold gasket that comes up on the sides of the flanges, the turbo shield, the downpipe shield, and the wastegate shield. Magnificent work. All the big pieces are two piece, and they easily come off. They are very sturdy, and look like a two layer shield with some type of fiberglass in the middle. Anyhow, it was over 600; I think it was worth it.
The cat did pretty good in that enclosed area. It does a good job when the car/cat is fully warmed up. You can't smell it when standing by the rear of the car outside.
The only thing I noticed is that Steve likes to set the idle afr around 12. My car doesn't like 12; this also leads to low 11's in cold mornings due to fuel enrichment / temps. At 11's the car stumbles like crazy at idle, and stunk like fuel. I pulled out about 0.15 from the correction map, and it's up to 13.5 and it idles so much nicer.
As for the Inconel shielding, well it was custom. The place is right down the street from me (atpwrap.com). I took them the turbo an manifold. They had it for 3 days, and they made a shield for the exhaust manifold, a little cover for the top side of the manifold flange to the engine, a custom turbo to manifold gasket that comes up on the sides of the flanges, the turbo shield, the downpipe shield, and the wastegate shield. Magnificent work. All the big pieces are two piece, and they easily come off. They are very sturdy, and look like a two layer shield with some type of fiberglass in the middle. Anyhow, it was over 600; I think it was worth it.
#311
Fast + Reliable = $$$$$
iTrader: (18)
I'm happy considering the circumstances. I was supposed to have a .9 spring in the wastegate which Steve said looked like a 1 bar. Boost creeped to 17 psi, so Steve was SUPER safe considering 91 octane pump gas at 17psi. We ended up about 425rwhp. When I asked him what my numbers would have been at 15psi with a more aggressive tune, he said about the same... so I guess bottom line is, I'm boosting a couple more psi for nothing.
As far as spool, I feel like it's very close to my old stock twin response at 15psi...I need to drive it more though, I haven't driven it since that day.
I'll be more prepared next visit, I'm planning to go up to 25psi on c16. I'm sure it'll be a lot more fun. Steve said I have enough fuel for 35psi...haha.
As far as spool, I feel like it's very close to my old stock twin response at 15psi...I need to drive it more though, I haven't driven it since that day.
I'll be more prepared next visit, I'm planning to go up to 25psi on c16. I'm sure it'll be a lot more fun. Steve said I have enough fuel for 35psi...haha.
#312
Archdandy
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Join Date: Mar 2006
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I read on the last page someone saying to check your egt's for you timing. I was wondering if there was any reason that you dont have a dual egt gauge before the turbo? That way you could tune for the leanest rotor, not the combination of the combustions. Looks great man. That is one expensive looking blanket. Keep us posted on your turbos life. I hear from garrett that the 35r has some center cartridge overheating problems that are no doubt compounded by the use of turbo blankets. Also have you thought of putting a filter in line for your oil feed to the turbo? Those ball bearings will love you for it. Keep up the good work!
--Hank
--Hank
#313
Polishing Fiend
iTrader: (139)
1. Don't use ss braided lines to the turbo, they transfer quite a bit of heat through the aluminum fittings and stainless wrap. If you do, make sure to shield them (very well). I found that one side the hose inside got so brittle that it started to leak slightly. Lucky I found this out while I was putting everything back together.
2. The Knighsports Metallit cat worked great for cleaning the exhaust but it caused quite a bit of backpressure compared to the new SMB Metallic cat with resonator. I picked up quite a bit of power just with that swap and a little bit more tuning. (see dyno chart). The SMB is a bit quieter, but it still drones.
3. Vasoline on injector O-rings is not good. The Bosch injectors I got had some yellow O-rings on top. When I assembled them, after a few thousand miles I was getting a faint fuel smell but no leaks anywhere. When I took the fuel lines / rails apart, I found that the yellow O-rings were soft and you could see some of the yellow on your fingers. I replaced all the O-rings with viton ones and used a silicone lubricant.
4. Turbo blankets fall apart. Quicly. I decided to replace it with a custom Inconel heat shielding. They made a shield for the exhaust manifold, all the way around the turbo, the downpipe, and even one for the wastegate. It doesn't hold in as much heat as a blanket, but I think that is better for the longevity of the turbo.
5. Need for an oil catch can. I noticed that I was getting oil into the turbo with the stock route for venting, but I never had any oil blow-by.
The only other things I changed were that I painted the rails, rerouted the fuel lines, used black fittings, covered the lines with shrink tubing, and the PITA move of the FPR to under the UIM. Overall it turned out great; but it's like a Chinese puzzle box to take everything apart!
Here's the dyno after switching to the SMB:
Hank,
Care to elaborate on the in-line oil filter for the turbo feed. Pictures of an install. Part # for the filter, etc. I think we would all like to know.
Regards,
Crispy
#315
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
I'm using a GroundZero lower intake manifold and it should have equal runners. That was the reason I decided just for one EGT; the flow to the front and rear rotor should be the same.
Thanks, hopefully it will be very little work from now on!
#316
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
haha, thanks! but my build would be nothing without the knowledge you and everyone else here contribute.
"ANY rubber hose will get brittle."
True dat... I replaced the line and used some of the flexible aluminum heat shield tubing that can be cut to wrap around the lines close to the turbo. Absolutely, hardlines would definitely be the way to go though.
"Resonated midpipe "
Even with the SMB cat and the additional resonator, it's a bit lould .
"Vasoline... why I'm suprised you did that!"
I learned the hard way! Well my thinking was that since the o-rings were to be submerged in gas anyway, what would a little Vasoline do? Ooops! Never again!
"Very nice...but CHA CHING! BTW how quick was quickly WTF to blanket?"
It only took a week to realize it , but a bit longer to figure out what I would do.
"I'm surprised you don't have one by now."
I actually didn't have too much oil in the intake but I figure any amount is bad as it decreases the IC efficiency quite a bit.
"Sah-wheet! Chinese puzzle? HA! yeah Tell me about it!"
Didn't you just build that single turbo engine with all of the smog stuff on it? Talk about puzzle! That's the fun stuff of building.
"ANY rubber hose will get brittle."
True dat... I replaced the line and used some of the flexible aluminum heat shield tubing that can be cut to wrap around the lines close to the turbo. Absolutely, hardlines would definitely be the way to go though.
"Resonated midpipe "
Even with the SMB cat and the additional resonator, it's a bit lould .
"Vasoline... why I'm suprised you did that!"
I learned the hard way! Well my thinking was that since the o-rings were to be submerged in gas anyway, what would a little Vasoline do? Ooops! Never again!
"Very nice...but CHA CHING! BTW how quick was quickly WTF to blanket?"
It only took a week to realize it , but a bit longer to figure out what I would do.
"I'm surprised you don't have one by now."
I actually didn't have too much oil in the intake but I figure any amount is bad as it decreases the IC efficiency quite a bit.
"Sah-wheet! Chinese puzzle? HA! yeah Tell me about it!"
Didn't you just build that single turbo engine with all of the smog stuff on it? Talk about puzzle! That's the fun stuff of building.
#317
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Thanks, hopefully I won't have to sell it.
#320
Hey Atihun,
The lower Intake manifold on your car is a Ground Zero Intake correct, I was interested to know what price these are, as Im in New Zealand, they have a website but no email address etc to contact them on, your help would be greatly appreciated, congrats on a great build, on of the better engineered cars of seen.
Cheers, Mark
The lower Intake manifold on your car is a Ground Zero Intake correct, I was interested to know what price these are, as Im in New Zealand, they have a website but no email address etc to contact them on, your help would be greatly appreciated, congrats on a great build, on of the better engineered cars of seen.
Cheers, Mark
#321
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Heya Mark,
Have you tried Pineapple Racing? They do or at least used to carry the LIM:
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=25
Attila
Have you tried Pineapple Racing? They do or at least used to carry the LIM:
http://www.pineappleracing.com/index...PROD&ProdID=25
Attila
#323
Rotary Enthusiast
Thread Starter
Popo. If I get the time and I keep the car, I will probably powder coat most things wrinkle black.
Last edited by atihun; 08-21-08 at 10:28 PM.