I highly doubt it a problem with the premix unless you are dumping the while container in there...

 

I dont think its the premix either. Thats just what PFS is saying it is. If I remember right its a 4 oz. container.

 

Even if you dump the whole thing in you couldn't tell.

I normally put about a containter in per fill up. 16oz for 16 gal.

It's tuning/setup

Might be getting some nasty trigger pick ups.

Log your triggers/rpms. See if you see a spike.

Log your afr's. You prolly have 1600cc's secondaries.

Don't know that EMS but check your current for those peak and hold injectors. Maybe they have too low settings for the low impedance injectors.

hell, does it do it when your not in gear (ie free rev?). if it does it's very easy to trouble shoot.

Look to see if it's load or rpm based (aka transitions/maps).

Throw a timing light on see what your ignition is doing.... just tons of stuff....

You need to trouble shoot it.

 

Everything has already been done. PFS, Fred from electromotive and Ken Scheepers are things that the wild porting that has been done are not working out.

 

Pluto, you get a chance please chime in to help out.

 

No offense but don't ask for help if "everything" has been done.

there are only a few fundamental things.

Timing
Ignition
Fuel
Compression

You get all that **** working you won't have a problem.

I highly doubt it's your porting.

 

Thanks J. I should have said that everything that I know of has been done. Steve Kan is thinking that one of the injectors are not working. I sure hope that is it. Steve will be in MN at the end of July so he will take a look at it then. I sure hope he will figure it out then.

 

If steve thinks it's an injector that's easy to test.

You know the primaries work (idles fine).

You need to apply a load and watch for when the ems goes to stagging (secondaries come on).

If your bucking comes there and you run lean or rich on your wb- you know where your problem is.

You can check for a open short on an injector with a multi meter.

they should be around 4 ohms if they are the bosch low impedance injector.

I have had a voltage spike (voltage reg on alternator went bad) and it burnt out a injector.

You might also have your secondary injectors swapped (that happens alot).

Especially if everything worked fine and then all of a sudden you got a problem with you secondaries.

 

you've had problems with this car since day one! could it be something with the computer??

 

It's not your porting, those guys either don't know wtf they are talking about, or they are trying to soak you for more money.

 

^^^all three of those guys have stellar reputations, why exactly would you state that?

I'm thinking it's a CAS/timing problem, possibly ecu related.

 

his problems started in feburary & theres always problems. Now i dont mean to bad mouth tuners that know what there doing but as they say **** me once screw on you, **** me twice screw on me.


Get it done right & get it done once

 

I would hope they know how to lock the timing to set it (LOL and unlocking it).

He's got a FD so there is no CAS adjustments.

If he gets the correct rpms he's good but again a simple data log of when it happens would be of great help.

 

I wasnt meaning to sling mud on them or anything like that...Not my intention.

I just do not understand why they would blame it on porting or pre mix. You and I both know that it's a slim to no chance that those are the issues. I would be better to just state that they cannot currently figure out what is wrong with the car and leave it as that.

 

From what I know the timing should be right since Steve set it in when he installed the motor. As for the ecu being messed up I sure hope electomotive fixed everything when they had it a month ago. The ecu ended up have a bad chip in it. They told me they checked over the whole unit and everything was fine so they shipped it back. This car has turned into my problem child and Im to the point that Im going to kick it butt.

 

If you want something done right, sometimes you just have to do it yourself. /shrug

 

Usually Electromotive sends the wheel already notched, so when you weld it on the stock FD wheel there are no mistakes so the timing should be dead on.

The issue sounds ECU related. I would check the TPS Voltage settings, make sure everything is set correctly, especially in the sensors area and on the main setting area. I have a TEC3 and experienced similar issues when the TPS settings were off.

It would be nice if you can load your bin file in another TEC GT just to make sure it is not the ECU itself. If you think it's injector related, maybe disconnect your secondary injector clips and bump up the milliseconds for the primaries to test at the RPM when you have the issue and see if it changes. Save your map before making any changes obviously.

Anthony

 

wow thats ashame there is so many problems getting this monster to run.... it'll all be worth it in the end though!!!

 

AnthonyNYC, from what I can recall, Ron did say something about the voltage dropping off higher the in rmp's. That was several weeks back though. He might have fixed it by now.

 

Ok, PM me if you are still having issues related to the TEC.

 

Just a thought but has anyone tried to use two timing lights on both leading plug wires and watch the lights as the rpms are brought up? When I installed my TecGT I has similar problems, backfire/hesitations and it turned out to be the barley used 50ohm wires. Changed to some cheap 7mm 300+ohm wires from Napa and problem solved.
chuck

 

I thought I would post some info my mechanic (Ron) sent me to let you guys know whats going on.

Symptom is rpm base not load. From the beginning. The car can free rev. It will also rev past the problem rpm in the first gear. From second gear on, the engine will start to break up ( seems to be ignition) from 3500 on regardless of load. Tried afr ranges between 11 flat and 13 around the problem area. Timing and fuel maps are consistant at that area. Secondary injectors are firing and verified to be connected. Leading and trailing ignition wiring have been verified. Tried different set of plugs. Checked power to all four coils. Checked individual gounds to all four coils (grounded to engine with individual ring terminals). Voltage is stable through out the rmps (13.62). Coil voltages are within .20 volts to battery coltage. Tried a charger connected to tthe battery during runs. Verified leading and trailing coils and wires are firing. Noticed the tps voltage was off, corrected it but still had the same issue. Fuel pressure consistent. No interuption in crank signal. Logs are clear with no spikes on rpm (crank signal) Tried different gaps on the sensor trigger (between .60 and .020) maybe more maybe less to a paper thin gap. Set trigger wheel true to be in the middle of the sensor pick up. Squared the sensor to the trigger wheel. Seperated the crank signal from coil and injector wires. Or any of the power wires. Ran seperated power and ground supply from battery to tec3. Etc Etc. The first time it rev past 3500 was when the trailing was set at 15 from 12 in the previous runs. It then rev to 3800 before it miss. Then retarted the map around 100kpa to 130 kpa, 5 degreee. The car revved higher again before it broke up. Kept dropping timing and was able to rev to 4200.

Trigger wheel was verified with Ray Wilson through phone conversation and picture taking. Borrowed a factory trigger wheel, compared and verified true top dead with Ray (PFS).

 

That is load based not rpm based.

Your engine doesn't know what gear your car is in.

If you can rev up to 7k and is fine in first gear (least amount of load of any gears) but not in any other gear than 1st it's load.

100kpa = 14.5 psi.....

So can you build boost in 1st gear then when it doesn't break up?

Don't run a ground to your battery either.

Make sure it has a good clean chasis connection (no paint etc).

 

The misfire happens at the same rpm on every other gear but first.
2nd gear -3500
3rd gear 3500
4th gear 3500

the load obviously are different on all three gears.

100kpa = 0 psi Tec3 functions in Absolute instead of atmospheric pressure that you quoted.

The ground was per instruction from Tec3 to try out. All the ground connections are free of paint and back to how it was originally wired up.

 

so when it breaks up are you still in vac?