Gotham Racing GT42R buildup---650+ hp
#228
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The car was able to rev up to 6200 the last time it was on the dyno. After 4 hours of battling whats going on with the ignition misfire. Changes in the ignition setting was helping it rev higher and higher. This is what led Tec3 support to think its the trigger wheel set up. When it was verified and explained to Ray what the car was doing, Ray mentioned it might the the premix. Per Rays instructions, drain out the remaining fuel out of the tank and put 5 gallons of fresh 110 octane with 15ml per gallon mix of 2 stroke oil. Ray also thought the car was running too rich. Ray provided a map the works for this set up. Tried that map and the new fuel/mix. Now the car is back to misfiring at 3500. Load the tuned map in that revved to 6200 and it will rev to 6200 and 10psi before it breaks up.
#229
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1st gear
1st gear goes through the rev so fast. Theres no time to look at the gauge. But for sure it sees boost in first gear.
#230
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The car was able to rev up to 6200 the last time it was on the dyno. After 4 hours of battling whats going on with the ignition misfire. Changes in the ignition setting was helping it rev higher and higher. This is what led Tec3 support to think its the trigger wheel set up. When it was verified and explained to Ray what the car was doing, Ray mentioned it might the the premix. Per Rays instructions, drain out the remaining fuel out of the tank and put 5 gallons of fresh 110 octane with 15ml per gallon mix of 2 stroke oil. Ray also thought the car was running too rich.
What do you have for injector setup?
The bosch 1600cc are peak and hold injectors and require more current than high impedance injectors (Could be a ecu thing).
To trouble shoot i would disconnect your secondaries and map out your primaries till about 9ms and that prolly get you 5psi+ and see if you get get through 3800 rpm.
#231
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Secondary/stage injection comes in smooth. AFR stays consistent and able to change it leaner or richer in the trouble spot.
its pretty much narrowed out to be ignition instead of fueling. But we will try any and all suggestions at this point. I wish we had another Tec3r to try out instead of sending it out to get tested. We want all the test to be done on the car at this point instead of somewhere else.
its pretty much narrowed out to be ignition instead of fueling. But we will try any and all suggestions at this point. I wish we had another Tec3r to try out instead of sending it out to get tested. We want all the test to be done on the car at this point instead of somewhere else.
#232
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Secondary/stage injection comes in smooth. AFR stays consistent and able to change it leaner or richer in the trouble spot.
its pretty much narrowed out to be ignition instead of fueling. But we will try any and all suggestions at this point. I wish we had another Tec3r to try out instead of sending it out to get tested. We want all the test to be done on the car at this point instead of somewhere else.
its pretty much narrowed out to be ignition instead of fueling. But we will try any and all suggestions at this point. I wish we had another Tec3r to try out instead of sending it out to get tested. We want all the test to be done on the car at this point instead of somewhere else.
R1 Primary - Driver 1
R1 Secondary - Driver 5
R2 Primary Driver 2
R2 Secondary Driver 6
Kinda fucked up if you ask me LOL... just becareful you don't use 3 or 4.
You can get super rich and super lean and anywhere inbetween with swapped injectors..... They are still firing just out of phase (180 degrees).
I've seen this happen before.
#233
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To recap.
The misfire( or what seems to be misfire ) is now happening at around 6200rpm @10 psi(wastegate pressure)
Tec3r trigger tooth set at 14 instead of 11
Ignition map set to 0 degress starting at 5psi on.
To explain it better. Each tooth added to the trigger set up will retard the whole ignition table by 6 degrees. By setting the trigger to 14, the whole ignition is retarded by (14-11=3),
(3*6=18) 18 degrees. The base map provided and known to work has around 15-17 degrees of timing. So with the trigger set at 14(retarded by 18degrees) and map set to 0(retarded by another 15 degrees) the engine runs and revs to around 6200. This is what doesn't make sense to any of the guys helping diagnose this issue.
The misfire( or what seems to be misfire ) is now happening at around 6200rpm @10 psi(wastegate pressure)
Tec3r trigger tooth set at 14 instead of 11
Ignition map set to 0 degress starting at 5psi on.
To explain it better. Each tooth added to the trigger set up will retard the whole ignition table by 6 degrees. By setting the trigger to 14, the whole ignition is retarded by (14-11=3),
(3*6=18) 18 degrees. The base map provided and known to work has around 15-17 degrees of timing. So with the trigger set at 14(retarded by 18degrees) and map set to 0(retarded by another 15 degrees) the engine runs and revs to around 6200. This is what doesn't make sense to any of the guys helping diagnose this issue.
#234
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injectors
For the TEC GT the injectors need to be
R1 Primary - Driver 1
R1 Secondary - Driver 5
R2 Primary Driver 2
R2 Secondary Driver 6
Kinda fucked up if you ask me LOL... just becareful you don't use 3 or 4.
You can get super rich and super lean and anywhere inbetween with swapped injectors..... They are still firing just out of phase (180 degrees).
I've seen this happen before.
R1 Primary - Driver 1
R1 Secondary - Driver 5
R2 Primary Driver 2
R2 Secondary Driver 6
Kinda fucked up if you ask me LOL... just becareful you don't use 3 or 4.
You can get super rich and super lean and anywhere inbetween with swapped injectors..... They are still firing just out of phase (180 degrees).
I've seen this happen before.
#235
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To recap.
The misfire( or what seems to be misfire ) is now happening at around 6200rpm @10 psi(wastegate pressure)
Tec3r trigger tooth set at 14 instead of 11
Ignition map set to 0 degress starting at 5psi on.
To explain it better. Each tooth added to the trigger set up will retard the whole ignition table by 6 degrees. By setting the trigger to 14, the whole ignition is retarded by (14-11=3),
(3*6=18) 18 degrees. The base map provided and known to work has around 15-17 degrees of timing. So with the trigger set at 14(retarded by 18degrees) and map set to 0(retarded by another 15 degrees) the engine runs and revs to around 6200. This is what doesn't make sense to any of the guys helping diagnose this issue.
The misfire( or what seems to be misfire ) is now happening at around 6200rpm @10 psi(wastegate pressure)
Tec3r trigger tooth set at 14 instead of 11
Ignition map set to 0 degress starting at 5psi on.
To explain it better. Each tooth added to the trigger set up will retard the whole ignition table by 6 degrees. By setting the trigger to 14, the whole ignition is retarded by (14-11=3),
(3*6=18) 18 degrees. The base map provided and known to work has around 15-17 degrees of timing. So with the trigger set at 14(retarded by 18degrees) and map set to 0(retarded by another 15 degrees) the engine runs and revs to around 6200. This is what doesn't make sense to any of the guys helping diagnose this issue.
Try unplugging your trailing coil and only running off your Leading coil.
#236
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18 degrees from the original 15degrees. that would make it -3degrees of timing. Then another 15 degrees taken out when the map was set to 0(in increments of 5 degrees).
So the engine now runs -3 + -15 = -18 degress of timing BTDC
tried that. The car idles and revs the same. didn't try driving it though.
Also tried disconnecting the leading and just run off trailing. The engine sounded a little lazy because of the split timing otherwise ran of both rotors.
So the engine now runs -3 + -15 = -18 degress of timing BTDC
tried that. The car idles and revs the same. didn't try driving it though.
Also tried disconnecting the leading and just run off trailing. The engine sounded a little lazy because of the split timing otherwise ran of both rotors.
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#239
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Was saying in the software you can adjust the spit by rpm....
I was say'n you might have had a goofy split in there.
I would try to run it with out trails and see what it does it.
If it doesn't sputter your set and is an easy fix... if not - go back to the drawing board again.
I was say'n you might have had a goofy split in there.
I would try to run it with out trails and see what it does it.
If it doesn't sputter your set and is an easy fix... if not - go back to the drawing board again.
#240
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Oh. yes I know about the split being set at different rpm ranges. I was just explaining why it was lazy with the leading coils disconnected.
We've tried all different split settings from all 0 to all 15 and everywhere in between with all combinations.
Will try to run it without the trailings and see.
We've tried all different split settings from all 0 to all 15 and everywhere in between with all combinations.
Will try to run it without the trailings and see.
#241
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LOL you should have came to the Iowa meet instead of dick'n with your car LOL
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...25#post9382025
https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...25#post9382025
#244
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Comptech
Sounds like you have a similar problem a freind of mine had with a Tec3. And we ended up swaping out the entire ECU with a Autronic SM4 and 500R CDI box and Crane Cams coils, and it worked like a charm. Used stock FD triggers and everything.
What kind of ignition system are you running now?
JT
Sounds like you have a similar problem a freind of mine had with a Tec3. And we ended up swaping out the entire ECU with a Autronic SM4 and 500R CDI box and Crane Cams coils, and it worked like a charm. Used stock FD triggers and everything.
What kind of ignition system are you running now?
JT
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Our issue was mainly having the trigger wheel made wrong. The trigger wheel didn't match the trigger set up on the software. Car now revs fine.
#248
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Tec3r
Im running the Electomotive coils. PFS made the wheel. If two great tuners cant figure this thing out I sure cant.
Steve Kan tried to tune the car for 6hrs on sunday. He ran into the same problem Ron at RS Motor did. The car just wont read the trigger wheel right. If you set the wheel on the lagtop to what it should be the car wont hardly run but, if you set it to top dead center on the motor and it read the 11th tooth the car will run pretty good. Steve has the map cleaned up until around 6200 rpm's. Steve said there is something really wrong with the unit. The car just wont respond like it should. The car is very under powered for what it should be. I went ahead and decided to go with the Haltech platinum 2000. I should have it by the end of the week.
Steve Kan tried to tune the car for 6hrs on sunday. He ran into the same problem Ron at RS Motor did. The car just wont read the trigger wheel right. If you set the wheel on the lagtop to what it should be the car wont hardly run but, if you set it to top dead center on the motor and it read the 11th tooth the car will run pretty good. Steve has the map cleaned up until around 6200 rpm's. Steve said there is something really wrong with the unit. The car just wont respond like it should. The car is very under powered for what it should be. I went ahead and decided to go with the Haltech platinum 2000. I should have it by the end of the week.
#250
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Im running the Electomotive coils. PFS made the wheel. If two great tuners cant figure this thing out I sure cant.
Steve Kan tried to tune the car for 6hrs on sunday. He ran into the same problem Ron at RS Motor did. The car just wont read the trigger wheel right. If you set the wheel on the lagtop to what it should be the car wont hardly run but, if you set it to top dead center on the motor and it read the 11th tooth the car will run pretty good. Steve has the map cleaned up until around 6200 rpm's. Steve said there is something really wrong with the unit. The car just wont respond like it should. The car is very under powered for what it should be. I went ahead and decided to go with the Haltech platinum 2000. I should have it by the end of the week.
Steve Kan tried to tune the car for 6hrs on sunday. He ran into the same problem Ron at RS Motor did. The car just wont read the trigger wheel right. If you set the wheel on the lagtop to what it should be the car wont hardly run but, if you set it to top dead center on the motor and it read the 11th tooth the car will run pretty good. Steve has the map cleaned up until around 6200 rpm's. Steve said there is something really wrong with the unit. The car just wont respond like it should. The car is very under powered for what it should be. I went ahead and decided to go with the Haltech platinum 2000. I should have it by the end of the week.
1: When I put my trigger wheel on, and *lightly* tacked it to the stock wheel with the TIG, I had minor warpage of the wheel...we threw it ont lathe, clipped 15 thou off and it was straight as a laser. never tried running it like that, but wouldn't hurt to have it checked.
2: It should be set to 11 for tooth offset. That is the way they design the wheel to fit the FD, unless the wheel was welded on backwards. Unless the wheel was installed incorrectly, the tooth setting in the laptop should be 11 - nothing else. Only way to verify whether its centered or not is to get the engine to TDC on the first rotor and check the position of the wheel, but likely, its correct it if runs well with 11.
3: Make sure to set the clearance of the wheel to mag sensor properly. There's also an trigger diagnosis tool electromotive makes, plugs into the trigger harness where the sensor does, and emulates an exact, perfect trigger signal to the ecu. Have one of these guys (presuming they're dealers) acquire one, toss it on, and instantly you will know whether its hardware/wiring/whatver or whether the box is to blame.
EDIT:
And one last thing, make sure there's no GPO/I's being used by channel 5 through 7. Having GPO's enabled on those channels can dick with the operation of the secondaries, I know - its stupid, electromotive needs to address it as it should automatically know 5-6 are injectors when its in rotary mode - but nonetheless, check your GPO settings.