give input on my map
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
give input on my map
anyone here care to check out my haltech map?
it's just roughly street tuned at the moment, but please check it out and post any thoughts.
it's just roughly street tuned at the moment, but please check it out and post any thoughts.
First, I am new to this rotary tuning thing, But what I see that really sticks out in your tune is the injector pulse-width.
At 8000 rpm the engine is turning one revolution every 7.5 ms. Because the rotary fires the injectors every revolution, 80% duty cycle (typically the max you would want to run) is 6.0 ms, you have a max of 10.878 ms which will leave your injectors wide open and not controlling the fuel.
At least that's the way I understand it.
someone else will have to give input on the timing.
At 8000 rpm the engine is turning one revolution every 7.5 ms. Because the rotary fires the injectors every revolution, 80% duty cycle (typically the max you would want to run) is 6.0 ms, you have a max of 10.878 ms which will leave your injectors wide open and not controlling the fuel.
At least that's the way I understand it.
someone else will have to give input on the timing.
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
vicoor, thanks for the input. luckily, that's only down at the staging bar, which is at 2 psi.
i havent done much with that staging bar column other than crank it up. i may end up having to move it over to < 1 psi :/
i have 550cc primaries, unfortunately.
i havent done much with that staging bar column other than crank it up. i may end up having to move it over to < 1 psi :/
i have 550cc primaries, unfortunately.
- Once you actually get the map calibrated, you'll find that fuel demand will fall past torque peak. Your map keeps rising with rpm. So the duty cycle issue will be lessened, if not eliminated, at peak revs. If you actually need to map the engine this way to supply adequate fuel at high revs, you probably have an inadequate fuel pump, lines, regulator, etc.
- On a related not, you're setup with primary hold staging mode. In this mode the primary injectors will run whatever is programmed in the last load site before the secondaries switch on through the entire post staged portion of the map. In your case, anything over 2 psi. As you have it setup, the primary pulse width will keep increasing even after the secondaries some online. This can create confusion when you start trying to calibrate the high load fuel curve. You'll instinctively want to adjust just the high load portion of the map, but the primary injectors will still be running at the same on time. With your setup, with smaller primaries and very large secondaries, this may not be as noticeable. But, if the sizes of the two injectors are closely matched, it's easy to try dialing out, or in, a bunch of fuel with the secondaries only. You need to make sure the primary injectors are properly calibrated at their peak load site (right before the secondaries come online, 2 psi in your case) before moving on to high load tuning. This is one reason why I prefer common staging mode. It makes high load tuning a little more intuitive since you're making adjustments to both injectors at the same time. Clear as mud?
- If you plan to use closed loop O2 or the quicktune feature, you'll need to have the target AFR map and base fuel map setup with the same axis. Simply save the axis you use for the base fuel map and load them into the target AFR map.
- I would use more resolution in vacuum and probably less in boost. The fuel requirement is far less linear in vacuum. Once in boost, the fuel demand increases in a relatively linear manner as MAP increases, meaning interpolation works quite well. More resolution in vacuum will lessen the need for interpolation and can produce more precise results.
- I'd add more rpm resolution around and just above idle. Again, VE changes very dramatically and in a non-linear fashion between 1000 and 3000 rpm. From there on up, 500 rpm increments works pretty well. I like using 250 rpm increments from 750 to 3000.
- You may want to add some more post-start fuel. Once the ambient conditions cool off, you'll probably need some more fuel spread out over a longer time to get smooth transitions from start to idle.
- Staging bar injection time is set to 0 at all points. A good rule of thumb to get you started is to set this about half way between the last load point running just the primaries and the first load point with the secondaries. This is a good map to use to help you smooth the transition.
- You have the transient throttle asynchronous pulses zeroed out. If you have good transient action as it is, don't mess with it. But it's hard to believe you do with the settings you have. Read the section in the manual on how to set all these parameters and follow that guide.
- The check box on the trigger setup page for trigger -ve GND and home -ve GND should be left unchecked when using the green wire inside the trigger and home looms for sensor -ve.
- I thought you were using stock ignition for some reason. If so, the ignition mode should be wastespark. I'm sure you know this though and you're using some other type of ignition setup.
- On a related not, you're setup with primary hold staging mode. In this mode the primary injectors will run whatever is programmed in the last load site before the secondaries switch on through the entire post staged portion of the map. In your case, anything over 2 psi. As you have it setup, the primary pulse width will keep increasing even after the secondaries some online. This can create confusion when you start trying to calibrate the high load fuel curve. You'll instinctively want to adjust just the high load portion of the map, but the primary injectors will still be running at the same on time. With your setup, with smaller primaries and very large secondaries, this may not be as noticeable. But, if the sizes of the two injectors are closely matched, it's easy to try dialing out, or in, a bunch of fuel with the secondaries only. You need to make sure the primary injectors are properly calibrated at their peak load site (right before the secondaries come online, 2 psi in your case) before moving on to high load tuning. This is one reason why I prefer common staging mode. It makes high load tuning a little more intuitive since you're making adjustments to both injectors at the same time. Clear as mud?

- If you plan to use closed loop O2 or the quicktune feature, you'll need to have the target AFR map and base fuel map setup with the same axis. Simply save the axis you use for the base fuel map and load them into the target AFR map.
- I would use more resolution in vacuum and probably less in boost. The fuel requirement is far less linear in vacuum. Once in boost, the fuel demand increases in a relatively linear manner as MAP increases, meaning interpolation works quite well. More resolution in vacuum will lessen the need for interpolation and can produce more precise results.
- I'd add more rpm resolution around and just above idle. Again, VE changes very dramatically and in a non-linear fashion between 1000 and 3000 rpm. From there on up, 500 rpm increments works pretty well. I like using 250 rpm increments from 750 to 3000.
- You may want to add some more post-start fuel. Once the ambient conditions cool off, you'll probably need some more fuel spread out over a longer time to get smooth transitions from start to idle.
- Staging bar injection time is set to 0 at all points. A good rule of thumb to get you started is to set this about half way between the last load point running just the primaries and the first load point with the secondaries. This is a good map to use to help you smooth the transition.
- You have the transient throttle asynchronous pulses zeroed out. If you have good transient action as it is, don't mess with it. But it's hard to believe you do with the settings you have. Read the section in the manual on how to set all these parameters and follow that guide.
- The check box on the trigger setup page for trigger -ve GND and home -ve GND should be left unchecked when using the green wire inside the trigger and home looms for sensor -ve.
- I thought you were using stock ignition for some reason. If so, the ignition mode should be wastespark. I'm sure you know this though and you're using some other type of ignition setup.
i was getting kickback at low rpms until i bumped up the trigger and home thresholds to 1V
that is a good point.. an easy way to tune fuel in boost is to get a good AFR at a 1-2 PSI, then simply adjust the max boost cells (for me about 20 psi) up or down as needed and linearize in between. technically im only using 2 columns in boost lol
Chris was do you recommend for injection angle? between 45 to 90 degrees, depending on RPM makes sense to me
- I would use more resolution in vacuum and probably less in boost. The fuel requirement is far less linear in vacuum. Once in boost, the fuel demand increases in a relatively linear manner as MAP increases, meaning interpolation works quite well. More resolution in vacuum will lessen the need for interpolation and can produce more precise results.
Chris was do you recommend for injection angle? between 45 to 90 degrees, depending on RPM makes sense to me
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
exactly the response i was looking for, ludwig. see my responses please!
that makes sense. i havent really done anything with the high RPM ranges yet. i was just driving around with a friend telling him when to do when making sure the car would boost smoothly in the midrange.
the one thing we did was tune the staging bar in the midrange, as that's where the primaries will hold through the boost ranges. we added a column .2psi after the staging bar to help the transition into the secondaries. this was a little weird though, as the secondaries are huge and the primaries are 550s.
my experience with common mode was the transition was rough, both going into boost and coming back down out of boost. albeit, this was with older haltech e6ks. we tuned my previous roommate's FC with 4x ID1000 injectors on primary hold mode and it was very smooth. this may have been because of the larger primaries.
i have not yet used this feature. i didn't have the PS2000 on my lexus long enough to use it, and the FC i mentioned above had a sprint RE, so that feature wasn't available. the matching axes makes sense.
do you use the quicktune?
i was planning on doing o2 control for cruising after i did a lot more tuning and got things running smoothly without it.
good to know. i will try this.
i was wondering about this. i hadn't yet checked into it.
it is actually fairly smooth at the moment, but slightly lean on throttle stabs. i was surprised. i will increase the throttle pumps though.
very good! i was wondering about this. i simply left it unchanged from the haltech base map. i was thinking it didnt matter if i wasnt using a hall-effect trigger. ok good.
using LS1 coils in direct fire
- Once you actually get the map calibrated, you'll find that fuel demand will fall past torque peak. Your map keeps rising with rpm. So the duty cycle issue will be lessened, if not eliminated, at peak revs. If you actually need to map the engine this way to supply adequate fuel at high revs, you probably have an inadequate fuel pump, lines, regulator, etc.
- On a related not, you're setup with primary hold staging mode. In this mode the primary injectors will run whatever is programmed in the last load site before the secondaries switch on through the entire post staged portion of the map. In your case, anything over 2 psi. As you have it setup, the primary pulse width will keep increasing even after the secondaries some online. This can create confusion when you start trying to calibrate the high load fuel curve. You'll instinctively want to adjust just the high load portion of the map, but the primary injectors will still be running at the same on time. With your setup, with smaller primaries and very large secondaries, this may not be as noticeable. But, if the sizes of the two injectors are closely matched, it's easy to try dialing out, or in, a bunch of fuel with the secondaries only. You need to make sure the primary injectors are properly calibrated at their peak load site (right before the secondaries come online, 2 psi in your case) before moving on to high load tuning. This is one reason why I prefer common staging mode. It makes high load tuning a little more intuitive since you're making adjustments to both injectors at the same time. Clear as mud? 

my experience with common mode was the transition was rough, both going into boost and coming back down out of boost. albeit, this was with older haltech e6ks. we tuned my previous roommate's FC with 4x ID1000 injectors on primary hold mode and it was very smooth. this may have been because of the larger primaries.
do you use the quicktune?
i was planning on doing o2 control for cruising after i did a lot more tuning and got things running smoothly without it.
- I would use more resolution in vacuum and probably less in boost. The fuel requirement is far less linear in vacuum. Once in boost, the fuel demand increases in a relatively linear manner as MAP increases, meaning interpolation works quite well. More resolution in vacuum will lessen the need for interpolation and can produce more precise results.
- Staging bar injection time is set to 0 at all points. A good rule of thumb to get you started is to set this about half way between the last load point running just the primaries and the first load point with the secondaries. This is a good map to use to help you smooth the transition.
- You have the transient throttle asynchronous pulses zeroed out. If you have good transient action as it is, don't mess with it. But it's hard to believe you do with the settings you have. Read the section in the manual on how to set all these parameters and follow that guide.
The quicktune and closed loop O2 control are available on the Sprint ECUs and have always been, FWIW.
Quicktune works fantastic with an eddy current dyno. Just alter load and rpm and hit Q or W. You can scratch map an engine very quickly with this feature. It's not really intended for use on the street, since you don't have the same level of load control. I've gotten to where I use it up to around 5-6 psi and for all of the vacuum areas of the map.
The check box for the -ve may have something to do with your 5000 rpm misfire issue. Not sure, just a thought. The LS1 coils may as well. They're pretty craptastic.
Quicktune works fantastic with an eddy current dyno. Just alter load and rpm and hit Q or W. You can scratch map an engine very quickly with this feature. It's not really intended for use on the street, since you don't have the same level of load control. I've gotten to where I use it up to around 5-6 psi and for all of the vacuum areas of the map.
The check box for the -ve may have something to do with your 5000 rpm misfire issue. Not sure, just a thought. The LS1 coils may as well. They're pretty craptastic.
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Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
ludwig, thanks for the input.
i think i will try common mode today with the staging bar injection table functioning.
also, any input on the timing and split maps?
i think i will try common mode today with the staging bar injection table functioning.
also, any input on the timing and split maps?
Thread Starter
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 9,387
Likes: 4
From: Nashville, TN
just did a little street tuning in common mode.
didnt have enough time to get the transition to cross smoothly, and didnt setup the staging bar injection time yet (all jacked up since i switched it to common mode), but the Q worked beautifully in vacuum and up to 2 psi with the axes setup correctly on the fuel base and the target afr maps
didnt have enough time to get the transition to cross smoothly, and didnt setup the staging bar injection time yet (all jacked up since i switched it to common mode), but the Q worked beautifully in vacuum and up to 2 psi with the axes setup correctly on the fuel base and the target afr maps
Haven't looked at any maps, but I want to say 420 or so. Which, if you subtract 360 from that, puts you at 60 and right in the meat of where you are. Since the rotary has a 360 cycle, you can use either. I have run it through the full cycle and there is no noticeable difference, to me, in either side of the 360 window.
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