I have an Apexi PFC so I am not sure if this question should go in that area or not...but it is a general question...
Ok first start, it started right up, a couple leaks...antifreeze and dp->cat exhaust leak...but seemed ok...
I turned it off to fix the antifreeze leak and then the car wouldn't start (it ran for about 2 min and then I shut it off) I can get it to start with starting fluid and then it runs...but I can't get it to start by its self...
once the car warms up, but exhaust is a dark color, not big plums of smoke or anything, but just a noticable dark color...is that from the dp and high flow cat?

If it starts with starting fluid does that mean the engine is running really lean? I will post more info once I have the WB 02 and EGT pluged in.
The plugs are brand new...could it be flooding on startup? (wouldn't that mean a rich starting injector dutycycle?)

I am not sure how to know which way to adjust things...do I need to get the EGT and WB 02 running first and then make a decision?

 

If it starts with starter fluid means that the ignition is working properly, sounds like maybe no fuel, did you check if you have gas(I know it sounds stupid, but it happens), and also make sure that the injector settings in the PFC are correct, make sure that you're getting gas to the injectors.

 

Be careful with that starting fluid its not the greatest for a rotary.

 

Sounds like it's rich & flooding. If it wasn't getting fuel at all it wouldn't have run for the 2min the first time.

crank it over, & if it doesn't start pull the plugs. If they are wet determine if it's gas or oil. If it's gas unplug the harness to the coils & clear the combustion chambers, add a little ATF, clean the plugs & rey again.

You could have a bad seal on the lower side of the injectors letting liquid fuel directly into the rotor chambers...

 

I know there is gas because I have been depressurizing it everytime I have to remove something.

Some interesting info, I tried to start it again today, I didn't use starting fluid. But it did the same thing. I removed the front set of plugs and they were coated with black stuff. The rear ones were nice and clean.

Would this indicate that the front plugs arn't firing?

 

I think it would indicate that the rear ones aren't firing. Black stuff means something is burning, right?

 

but they are coated with black stuff...and it is wet...the other ones (rear ones) are dry...

How can I test to see if the plugs are firing?

 

sounds like you aren't getting spark to the front or you aren't getting fuel to the rear. Hard to say

 

buy a spark tester that goes inline between the plug and plug wire

 

Testing the spark will be my next step...

So that must mean that the car was running on one rotor when it did start? (which is yet to be determined)

Does it help to know that when I pulled the vacuum line for the power steering off the engine started lobbing (when it was running).
That was the second say I got it started, I pulled that vacuum hose and sprayed starter in that hole, so does that mean that the rear chamber was firing because that hole goes directly into the rear rotor...?

 

oops, spelling problem
'That was the second WAY I got it started...'
might be a little confusing otherwise

 

i had the same problem and my fuel pressure regulator was adjusted for 10 psi, I turned the **** and it got better and better , now at 40 psi and runs great. You'll nee a gauge to tee in your fuel line.

 

Just use a timing light. Hook it up the battery as usual, then just hook the induction lead to whatever wire you want to check for spark on. Pull the trigger. If it blinks, you have spark .

~T.J.

 

Sounds like when i had my 2 primary injectors hooked up on the rotor 1 so rotor 2 wasnt getting any fuel.

I would definatly check the spark.

J

 

I figured it out...at least one thing that was wrong. No fuel to the front chamber.
The the lead off the resistor to the front injector broke off... so the injector wasn't firing...
I had tested all the spark wires so I knew I was getting spark (used a spark tester and a magnet used for welding to hold the tester to ground and up in the air where I could see it, then cranked the car. It was more difficult than having someone to help, but it got the job done.)
that is what I get for using Radio shack resistors...I have some coming from Rotary performance, they will hopefully be here tomorrow and I can see if they work.

 

Ok...I replaced the resistors with the new ones (from Rotary Performance)...
the car still seems to do the same thing...but I did pull the plugs and they weren't covered in black...

Here is what happened since replacing the resistors:
I made sure the plugs were clean,
replaced the UIM, connected the plugs, except ACV and Double throttle stuff, both of which are removed.
Made sure I had a good charge on the battery, tried to start the car, it did the same, choke/turn about 4 times, and then die.
I removed the Bov, and I was able to get the car to start. it was kind of a pulsing idle. kinda reminded me of a vacuum leak after the throttle body, but I couldn't find anything.
It idled about 5 minutes, I covered the bov hole with my hand to see what would happen, the idle dropped a little, but nothing else noticable. I was starting to put the bov back on and the car died. Just like that.
I tried to start it (bov was still on, or at least covering the hole), I couldn't get it to start.
I removed the plugs, rear were clean, front where covered with black stuff again...

Fuel pressure stayed ~45psi, it was about 35psi while cranking.

Any more thoughts...???

I am going to go check to see if I have the correct injector plugs pluged into the primary injectors, but would that cause this problem?
I have spark, so it seems like a fuel issue...
If it seems to drop in idle when I covered the BOV hole, does that mean it wants more air? (or has too much fuel?)

----Information about the Power FC-----

What cell should I be in at idle? P10 N3?
My injector settings are as follows
front primary 73.3 .04
front secondary .45
rear primary 73.3 .04
rear secondary .45

Q primary 750
Q secondary 1620

Cranking (ms) ---these are the basic settings I believe
+80c 12
+50c 17.3
+30c 32
+10c 59
-10c 87.2
-30c 104.2

I have not adjusted any fuel settings other than minor changes in injector settings
N2, P3-P6 are slightly less than stock settings (.02ms ~.06ms less time)

I am not really sure what to check next...I guess I will look at the oil metering pump and squirters to see if too much oil is getting squirted in...I wasn't sure where to hook the oil squirters up to...

 

It is almost running!!!


I figured out what was going on...TPS didn't get pluged back in...
pluged it back in...

The car started and was still rough...I looked at my boost gauge to see what vacuum I was running...it said '0'...hummm
I realized the boost gauge wasn't pluged in...I plugged it in.
then I realized the factory boost sensor was disconnected (I don't know how or when that happened!) so I pluged it in and the AFR jumped from 11.2 to 15.5, made one backfire, and I quickly shut the car off...
what happened? why did plugging in the factory boost sensor cause the car to respond that way?

PLEASE HELP ME!! I want to drive my 7 again...

 

I had forgot to change the Profec B controller to external waste gate...it is still set for the factory turbos...would that have caused this?

 

I got to drive my car today...I missed it!
here is some of the things that contributed to it not running...
broken injector resistor (that was the first problem)
TPS not pluged in...(oops)
Map sensor not pluged in...(oops, those vacuum hoses get away from me)
(I turned o2 feed back on...that may have helped)...
fuel pressure was a little low after fiddling with things,
Added a little more fuel to the starting maps...I will lean them out as needed once I get to do some datalogging.

It still has pulsing idle, but that is from the PFC and I hope it levels out soon...

I am so happy to be back behind the wheel!!! I was driving a 1973 VW beetle around...the 7 is so much different!!!

 

dont feel bad bro...i was driving my 7 like a jerk trying to tune it on the freeway...then i lost power costed off the freeway and car ran like it was blowin. limped it home and parked it in the gatage for 3 months...never looked at it. chuck from rotaryextreme did a compresion test on my car and found my rotors were ok. he looked around and noticed my vacuum line popped off the damn map sensor. three months in the garage for a damn vacuum line...think about it...weak

 

yeah it is definately easy to forget things here and there. lord know i have done it since ther are so many thing you have to be worried about!!! glad you got things running. one thing a hate is if its not one thing its another!!! well if your the type that has to have something to work all the time for the challenge this the the car to have.
i love my fd
james

 

I am definitly a tinkerer (is that a word?)
That boost sensor line got me...the car runs without it, but not for $hi+!
But it is nice to have it running, my project now is tuning it, and I have a motorcycle to work on
Here is what the car looks like...I need to clean it up...but I wanted to get it running first!