IAN

iTrader: (3)

So I’m completely rebuilding my 10th AE back from being painted. It is almost too clean to drive lol. In the past it was a haltech E6K to E8 TO4B 60-1 turbo running 400rwhp that I tracked and generally enjoyed it for years. Sold my E8 and P2000, a few parts here and there with the intention to put it back to stock. In the process of putting the 10th AE back together I sold my track 1989. (got tired of too may projects and two cars sucking money.) Now I am considering if a stock FC will be fun enough to drive with as is or should I put some modifications back in her. I want this car to pass emissions and hate the stink of an open rotary. (sniffing rotary fumes for 22 years lol) For alloptions I will be using an ARC top mount intercooler with possible wannaspeed water injection. (Sold my greddy VSPL FMIC intercooler and FJO water injection kit for a song.)

Three or so options
Option 1 Rtek:
-with BNR stage 3 full emissions and run what power the rtek can achieve. I guess the limiting factor is fuel injectors and mass air flow sensor and stock boost sensor.
Positive
-I have new stock Mazda engine harness and stock catalytic converter
-Should pass emissions easy and base map is stock.
Negatives
-I have to rebuild the turbo to achieve HP and shipping and rebuild costs will be over $1000.
-Need new fuel injectors and boost control
-olds school computer but I hear they may be going android compatible with wireless.

Option 2 PS1000:
-Run Platinum sport PS1000 with custom harness by lugwig and run all emission component if possible
Positive
-Unlimited programming and boost control
-I have all my old haltech sensors, boost solenoid, egt sensor etc.
-Removes Mass Air flow sensor.
-Run my old T04Bturbo and manifold etc
Negatives
-Expensive but appears might be close to the Rtek route as I have turbo and fuel injectors, exhaust for this setup
-Cannot run stock air pump and possible air control valve.
-Visually may not pass emissions test if they look at it.

Option 3 Keep it stock:
Positive
-Cheapest and most reliable option
-Will not stink

Negative
-Slow as hell

Option 4:
-Run P1000 with patch loom to stock engine harness. Keep everything looking stock with BNR stage 4 or run T04B 60-1 turbo.


Option 5
2008 BMW 135i with COBB kit daily fun

What you think?

Hybrid G

iTrader: (4)

BMW M3 with a COBB


You need an FD god damit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

IAN

iTrader: (3)

LOL. FD I've always wanted. yet the prices around here or what people are asking are crazy. Hard to find something clean.

Easier to buy 135i and have a quicker quiet emissions legal car with 400hp Just got my front oil pan gasket. $34 plus taxes. no wonder everyone is bailing on these rotaries. LOL

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the haltech actually can run the solenoids for the ACV, it can't run em quite like the factory*, but its close enough.

i think i'd do some bolt in hybrid/bnr turbo, run all the factory emissions/hardware so it looks stock, and then use whichever ecu is cheaper

*the haltech can do RPM switching which is probably fine, the stock ecu is rpm and load dependent

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

Ian,

Option 3 with an electric air pump, who uses the oil pan gasket? Use The Right Stuff! I haven't used the gasket in years, just RTV...

IAN

iTrader: (3)

Option 3 is stock so would use stock airpump.

The gasket was front oil cover gasket. List $34. WTF.

Nismo Convert86

iTrader: (7)

I meant option 2. I just ordered the bulk of my rebuild parts, you could have thrown it on my order. Actually I think I have one kicking around that I didn't use on the last rebuild. Just text me next time.

This is where I get all my parts from now.

Mazda Parts - Online Mazda Parts

Shainiac

iTrader: (7)

Use an Rx8 front cover gasket. It's all metal and cheaper. All you have to do is snip off one bolt tab. I did mine with kitchen shears.

http://www.rotaryheads.com/modificat...asket_mod.html