cast elbow or silicone hose?
cast elbow or silicone hose?
I'm wondering if there is any consensus, or pros and cons of using a silicone elbow on the compressor housing outlet vs welding on a cast aluminum elbow.
Seems like the weld on elbow could save a little space.
Seems like the weld on elbow could save a little space.
Cast elbows remove the likely hood of flexing and bursting. It's best to just rely on straight couplers as pressure never compromises their integrity unlike pressure with silicone elbows. You're more likely to have a coupler slip off before it busts but if you have the extra time, it's time well spent.
cast elbows remove the likely hood of flexing and bursting. It's best to just rely on straight couplers as pressure never compromises their integrity unlike pressure with silicone elbows. You're more likely to have a coupler slip off before it busts but if you have the extra time, it's time well spent.
Find a good aluminum welder and have one welded on.
From a reliability perspective yeah you want as few joints as possible. You want straight couplers only. You want the ends of the pipes to have a lip on them, and you want the pipes to sit in the engine bay such that they are aligned and have only a small gap between them.
I've been kicking this around in my mind but not being experienced with this whole turbo thing I was afraid there might be some reason not to.
As far as the welding, I can do that.
And you guys have given good enough cause to do so.

Thanks for the input.
As far as the welding, I can do that.
And you guys have given good enough cause to do so.

Thanks for the input.
Silicone elbow works just fine with t-bolt clamps. Pros with silicone elbow is that you can rotate it however you like vs welded cast elbow where its in one final position once welded. There is no special gains in both, its just preferences.
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When I see T-bolt clamps on customers cars all I can think of is how they probably got ripped off on poor fitting IC piping and then ripped off again on 120$ in T-bolt clamps to keep it together.
If you can't run 40lbs through your piping on fifty cent clamps then your fabricator isn't doing his job right.
Cast elbows for sure, straight couplers only.
If you can't run 40lbs through your piping on fifty cent clamps then your fabricator isn't doing his job right.
Cast elbows for sure, straight couplers only.
When I see T-bolt clamps on customers cars all I can think of is how they probably got ripped off on poor fitting IC piping and then ripped off again on 120$ in T-bolt clamps to keep it together.
If you can't run 40lbs through your piping on fifty cent clamps then your fabricator isn't doing his job right.
Cast elbows for sure, straight couplers only.
If you can't run 40lbs through your piping on fifty cent clamps then your fabricator isn't doing his job right.
Cast elbows for sure, straight couplers only.
Best solution is to clock your turbo in the best position possible and weld the cast elbow on it so all you have to use are straight section silicon hose pieces.
When I see T-bolt clamps on customers cars all I can think of is how they probably got ripped off on poor fitting IC piping and then ripped off again on 120$ in T-bolt clamps to keep it together.
If you can't run 40lbs through your piping on fifty cent clamps then your fabricator isn't doing his job right.
Cast elbows for sure, straight couplers only.
If you can't run 40lbs through your piping on fifty cent clamps then your fabricator isn't doing his job right.
Cast elbows for sure, straight couplers only.
It really disappointing when people are still being so cheap when it comes to a good quality build.
Tell me who boosts 40lbs on 50cent worm clamps?
Last edited by abc; Jul 29, 2013 at 02:45 AM.
Totally agree, and I've also seen people who try and clamp the crap out of them and end up crushing the pipes.
Best solution is to clock your turbo in the best position possible and weld the cast elbow on it so all you have to use are straight section silicon hose pieces.
Best solution is to clock your turbo in the best position possible and weld the cast elbow on it so all you have to use are straight section silicon hose pieces.
Wiggins clamps would be best if a budget wasn't an issue....
That's exactly why I run wiggins clamps. Over $1600 for 4 of them (4 inch ones). But they sure do look sexy.
I have a good array of cast alum elbows sitting in a shelf. I hate, wait let me say that again, I HATE having to deal with cast alum elbows. Removing or reinstalling them are a pain the ***
Everyone who knows that T-bolts are an 'up-sell' shops use to kids with crappy intercooler piping?
Tell me which real race team uses T-bolt clamps?
They'll either use Murray turbo seal hose clamps, which is what I use on my car, or they'll make the jump to Wiggens.
Forreal, 50 cent clamps are fine forever if your IC piping was done by someone competent. If for some reason you have some hair brained notion of having to spend 20$ a coupler on clamps or else your build is "cheap"
Murray Constant Tensions.
Constant Tension Clamps
PS, on FDs the piping is so short with wiggins I doubt its a problem, but chassis flex/engine movement can become an issue with wiggens.
Thread is getting off topic.....Congrats to the English Town champ using T-bolt clamps.
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...nifold-768878/
https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...nifold-768878/
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