FC TURBO options. What to do.
 

So I’m completely rebuilding my 10th AE back from being painted. It is almost too clean to drive lol. In the past it was a haltech E6K to E8 TO4B 60-1 turbo running 400rwhp that I tracked and generally enjoyed it for years. Sold my E8 and P2000, a few parts here and there with the intention to put it back to stock. In the process of putting the 10th AE back together I sold my track 1989. (got tired of too may projects and two cars sucking money.) Now I am considering if a stock FC will be fun enough to drive with as is or should I put some modifications back in her. I want this car to pass emissions and hate the stink of an open rotary. (sniffing rotary fumes for 22 years lol) For alloptions I will be using an ARC top mount intercooler with possible wannaspeed water injection. (Sold my greddy VSPL FMIC intercooler and FJO water injection kit for a song.)

Three or so options
Option 1 Rtek:
-with BNR stage 3 full emissions and run what power the rtek can achieve. I guess the limiting factor is fuel injectors and mass air flow sensor and stock boost sensor.
Positive
-I have new stock Mazda engine harness and stock catalytic converter
-Should pass emissions easy and base map is stock.
Negatives
-I have to rebuild the turbo to achieve HP and shipping and rebuild costs will be over $1000.
-Need new fuel injectors and boost control
-olds school computer but I hear they may be going android compatible with wireless.

Option 2 PS1000:
-Run Platinum sport PS1000 with custom harness by lugwig and run all emission component if possible
Positive
-Unlimited programming and boost control
-I have all my old haltech sensors, boost solenoid, egt sensor etc.
-Removes Mass Air flow sensor.
-Run my old T04Bturbo and manifold etc
Negatives
-Expensive but appears might be close to the Rtek route as I have turbo and fuel injectors, exhaust for this setup
-Cannot run stock air pump and possible air control valve.
-Visually may not pass emissions test if they look at it.

Option 3 Keep it stock:
Positive
-Cheapest and most reliable option
-Will not stink:)

Negative
-Slow as hell

Option 4:
-Run P1000 with patch loom to stock engine harness. Keep everything looking stock with BNR stage 4 or run T04B 60-1 turbo.


Option 5
2008 BMW 135i with COBB kit daily fun:)

What you think?

BMW M3 with a COBB:nod:


You need an FD god damit!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

LOL. FD I've always wanted. yet the prices around here or what people are asking are crazy. Hard to find something clean.

Easier to buy 135i and have a quicker quiet emissions legal car with 400hp:) Just got my front oil pan gasket. $34 plus taxes. no wonder everyone is bailing on these rotaries. LOL

the haltech actually can run the solenoids for the ACV, it can't run em quite like the factory*, but its close enough.

i think i'd do some bolt in hybrid/bnr turbo, run all the factory emissions/hardware so it looks stock, and then use whichever ecu is cheaper

*the haltech can do RPM switching which is probably fine, the stock ecu is rpm and load dependent

Ian,

Option 3 with an electric air pump, who uses the oil pan gasket? Use The Right Stuff! I haven't used the gasket in years, just RTV...

Option 3 is stock so would use stock airpump.

The gasket was front oil cover gasket. List $34. WTF.

I meant option 2. I just ordered the bulk of my rebuild parts, you could have thrown it on my order. Actually I think I have one kicking around that I didn't use on the last rebuild. Just text me next time.

This is where I get all my parts from now.

Mazda Parts - Online Mazda Parts

Use an Rx8 front cover gasket. It's all metal and cheaper. All you have to do is snip off one bolt tab. I did mine with kitchen shears.

http://www.rotaryheads.com/modificat...asket_mod.html