Evans Cooling Systems!!!!!!!
06-01-02, 03:45 PM
#126
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I fill it up and burp it. and then go for a drive and it spits it all out the overflow and then goes right off the gauge. but I think I have a blown water seals cuz the exaust smells like evans. I am going to pull the motor apart this weak and see how everything looks.
06-02-02, 07:49 PM
#127
hmm, I was close but no cigar, at least I can kinda blame it on not reading this thread in uhm, how many months?
*edit*
I wonder if I could use this stuff in a quad? I'm probably getting a Warrior soon (gotta love payments
) and it's liquid cooled, this would be rather cool to see if it actually showed improvements, although a quad would be easy to contaminate it with seeing how I'd be trying not bog when speeding through creeks.
And I this is my 5,432nd post
5
4
3
2
ONE!!!
BRASTOFFFF!!!!
*edit*
I wonder if I could use this stuff in a quad? I'm probably getting a Warrior soon (gotta love payments
) and it's liquid cooled, this would be rather cool to see if it actually showed improvements, although a quad would be easy to contaminate it with seeing how I'd be trying not bog when speeding through creeks.And I this is my 5,432nd post
5
4
3
2
ONE!!!
BRASTOFFFF!!!!
Last edited by Node; 06-02-02 at 07:54 PM.
06-02-02, 08:10 PM
#128
No wonder I gave bad info, bad info was given on the first page...twice
"remove the rubber o-ring"
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=31518 <---for those too lazy to go to the first page
"remove the rubber o-ring"
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=31518 <---for those too lazy to go to the first page
06-03-02, 10:38 AM
#132
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amemiya: Are you running a pressurized cap? If you have residual water, it will do what you are describing!
Of course, it is very likely you have a blown seal, too. This would definitely be my diagnosis if you were running regular coolant! I had a used car dealer call a couple of weeks ago to see if I had a used overflow tank for sale. I replied "Yes, but you need a new engine" "What do you mean", he replied "I only have a leaky resevoir" He was confused about my instant diagnosis, but the car ended up at the shop a couple days later with confirmed o-ring failure. Opps.
We'll keep our fingers crossed. If you have not done so, try the techniques described previously to flash off any water. Or, sniff above the filler neck with the cap removed on an emissions machine. If you see HC's or CO, than you know an o-ring has failed!
Of course, it is very likely you have a blown seal, too. This would definitely be my diagnosis if you were running regular coolant! I had a used car dealer call a couple of weeks ago to see if I had a used overflow tank for sale. I replied "Yes, but you need a new engine" "What do you mean", he replied "I only have a leaky resevoir" He was confused about my instant diagnosis, but the car ended up at the shop a couple days later with confirmed o-ring failure. Opps.
We'll keep our fingers crossed. If you have not done so, try the techniques described previously to flash off any water. Or, sniff above the filler neck with the cap removed on an emissions machine. If you see HC's or CO, than you know an o-ring has failed!
06-03-02, 11:22 AM
#133
Originally posted by pp13bnos
I have a mildy built lt500, and my brother has a realy built banchee and after using this stuff, the bike never will get so hot you have to let it cool down for awhile. Keep in mind we run mostly the dunes. CJ
I have a mildy built lt500, and my brother has a realy built banchee and after using this stuff, the bike never will get so hot you have to let it cool down for awhile. Keep in mind we run mostly the dunes. CJ
quadzilla Nothing more attractive than a 500cc two stroke
06-03-02, 02:18 PM
#134
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thanks for your help and yes I have removed the o ring, I am pretty sure it is the o ring cuz it will realy lose all it's coolant if I boost it alot, if I try not to let the turbo spool it will last alot long before losing all the coolant. I should have it apart by the end of the weak. I will try to get some pics, I am going bridge port this time around.
06-03-02, 03:16 PM
#135
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2) Get all of the water out! Any time I rebuild an engine, I skip the Sierra conversion process. The block is sneaky about retaining coolant even with the block drain pulled -- so you MUST use the Sierra conversion process if your engine is simply drained. However, I use compressed air to evacuate the heater core (don't forget the heater core!) and the radiator. Make sure the heat selector is set at HOT to make sure the valve is open to the heater core for a complete evacuation of the old coolant. You will still have a very small amount of residual coolant even with all of these steps. The die-hards would be advised to use the Sierra conversion for any NPG+ installation.
To evacuate the remaining moisture, Evan's recommends running the engine at 280 deg with the cap removed! OUch... that sounds scary. They further convince you that this is a safe practice for an Evan's equipped engine. If anyone is brave enough to try this, please let me know! My approach is to leave the cap off an let the car idle for a period with the fan relays pulled. I don't go that hot, and I constantly check temps of crucial components with an IR thermometer (F&R block, rad hoses, etc) while the residual moisture steams off.
To evacuate the remaining moisture, Evan's recommends running the engine at 280 deg with the cap removed! OUch... that sounds scary. They further convince you that this is a safe practice for an Evan's equipped engine. If anyone is brave enough to try this, please let me know! My approach is to leave the cap off an let the car idle for a period with the fan relays pulled. I don't go that hot, and I constantly check temps of crucial components with an IR thermometer (F&R block, rad hoses, etc) while the residual moisture steams off.
Engine seems fine though, safe to say all the water is out?
06-03-02, 06:26 PM
#136
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Hmm.. 271 F, probably not all that bad since the coolant still can't boil at that temperature. It will be interesting to monitor your progress over the next years to see how the engine fares from the experience, and then to see inside to see how the o-rings look. I am curious what the oil temps would have risen to by then? I guess all the water is out though, good technique!
06-16-02, 11:20 PM
#137
Senior Member
I removed the rubber seal from the radiator cap and the Evans leaked out causing the low level warning buzzer to go off. How do I get 0 psi for this? What do you guys do to?
06-29-02, 10:10 PM
#141
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Well I got a Koyo and some new hoses since I was having some overheating problems before. Now if I let it sit and idle, it goes up to 100C and stays there for about 10 minutes and then starts climbing up to 110c unless I take it for a spin. After about 3 minutes of driving the temps go to 96c and stay there. I come back and park and it goes to 97, then about 5 minutes later 98, then 3 minutes and 100, then another 3 and it's 103 and time for another spin around the block. I'm not sure how high it would go before it stabilized if I didn't go for a drive, I'm too chicken. The PowerFC starts reving the engine when you hit 103c, is there a way to change the point at which it does that? It seems that 103c is just fine for NPG+, right? Thanx!
-Jedon
ps. Oh and that Koyo sure holds a lot more fluid, I drained about 3/4 gallon out of the old radiator and then put that plus a whole nother gallon in! Now I have no spare NPG+, I guess I'll have to order more. (I got 4 gallons initially).
-Jedon
ps. Oh and that Koyo sure holds a lot more fluid, I drained about 3/4 gallon out of the old radiator and then put that plus a whole nother gallon in! Now I have no spare NPG+, I guess I'll have to order more. (I got 4 gallons initially).
08-03-02, 05:13 PM
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well I fixed my problem I detonated real bad before I put the evens in from a 18 psi boost spike, it blew a chunk of my casting off. Now I have a bridge port still with the stock radiator and the temp stays pretty nice even here in the desert at 100+ degF. I love the stuff no pressure in the system. I will never go back to regular antifreeze.
08-08-02, 08:10 AM
#146
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I'm running it in both of my tractors untill my motor is up and running for the 7. I have had no probs so far. The kubota would run hot at least once while mowing 5 acre, after evans npg+ no overheating problems a t all, even in 100^+ days
08-08-02, 12:43 PM
#147
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More news: I put my belly pan on and it helped dramatically. Now cruising at 80mph in 3rd on the highway temps are locked in at 83c. If I hit traffic or drive it harder (not too hard, only 750 miles on my new engine...) temps go up to 88 or so, sometimes 93 if it's really hot out. If I turn the fans on with the A/C on 2 trick (My actual AC doesn't work due to PFC) temps drop to 76c under light throttle at freeway speeds or high 80's c under boost or in traffic. If I had computer control of the fans I think I could keep it always in the low 80's.
BTW, air intake temps dropped from 66-75c to 45c with the belly pan and IC duct, I would consider them manditory.
-Jedon
BTW, air intake temps dropped from 66-75c to 45c with the belly pan and IC duct, I would consider them manditory.
-Jedon
08-12-02, 01:49 PM
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Just for GRIGGLES I took some PRESTONE LOW TOX, sierra knockoff, and boiled it. Boiling point was 318 degrees F, gave off lots of water vapor. After it cooled I went to pour it out and you should have seen the CRUD {Bonus question: What does "CRUD" stand for?}
that formed in the pan. Pics in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=93197
that formed in the pan. Pics in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=93197