Evans Cooling Systems!!!!!!!
03-03-02, 05:16 PM
#104
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well I don't have exact temps but I love it. no one should have tohe tourture of not having evans in there system. this stuff is great. the is no pressure. and the car feels much stronger. I will never go back to old coolant. NEVER. I have all my friends ordering it.
03-04-02, 02:50 AM
#105
Originally posted by Tim Benton
Any testimonials yet on the NPG+ and temps? Max?
Tim Benton
Any testimonials yet on the NPG+ and temps? Max?
Tim Benton
-Max
03-15-02, 08:54 PM
#107
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just put some in a customers car, it feels stronger but i have not figured out the temp readings yet, but what seems to happen is that when the car sits and heats the water (after running it of course) the temp gauge will stay wherever it is when i start the car back up and gradually go back down. i like it. i did notice that my air temp readings are way down though and since the upr/lwr manifolds are ceramic coated the heat usually will stick around longer before going down. if you are sitting in traffic naturally the temp rises but immediately when you start moving the temp drop fast, this tells me that the motor itself is cooler so the coolant must be working better.
04-10-02, 12:10 AM
#109
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One question......How do I eliminate the presurized cap on a Pettit aluminum AST ?? Do they sell a cap that fits the AST that is 0 Pressure ??? Thank you.
04-10-02, 02:38 AM
#110
I have been using Evans for several months now and did noticed my water temps run a bit higher (10-15F). I have done a lot of work to my cooling system so it will run hard all day long on extremely tight road courses on those 105-degree TX summer days. Data logging (haltech) last year on just such a day with an 80/20 mix, my water temps never went above 235F. I have been on the same course this year on an 80-degree day, Evans temps went up to 225F, we will see when temps start getting really hot down here.
The theory with Evans is that you can run safely with much higher indicated water temps. Actual engine internal temperatures are lower even though your gauge says your running hotter, I believe it. I performed a little test using my kitchen stove, a pot, and an infrared temperature gauge. I poured 1” of 80/20 mix in a pot and placed it on a preheated burner, then started recording fluid temps every 30 seconds. I did the same with 1” of Evans, (note; a contact sensor probe would be more accurate for this test) anyway from what I found the Evans absorbed the burner heat more than twice as fast as the water and the boiling point was a lot higher, cooling rates were not that different.
You can just drill the center pressure cap valve to have a no pressure system or you can find a 6PSI cap at most local auto part stores.
The theory with Evans is that you can run safely with much higher indicated water temps. Actual engine internal temperatures are lower even though your gauge says your running hotter, I believe it. I performed a little test using my kitchen stove, a pot, and an infrared temperature gauge. I poured 1” of 80/20 mix in a pot and placed it on a preheated burner, then started recording fluid temps every 30 seconds. I did the same with 1” of Evans, (note; a contact sensor probe would be more accurate for this test) anyway from what I found the Evans absorbed the burner heat more than twice as fast as the water and the boiling point was a lot higher, cooling rates were not that different.
You can just drill the center pressure cap valve to have a no pressure system or you can find a 6PSI cap at most local auto part stores.
04-10-02, 09:25 AM
#111
Just finished my Evans install (along with new engine) and haven't noticed any significant difference in coolant temps. It's been awhile since I drove the car plus I have reset the fan temps so I doubt I'll see a difference until the Houston summer arrives. All experiences with the Evans have been excellent so far and it just feels good to run 0 psi for hose and seal integrity.
For those wanting a 0 psi cap, just go to your local Mazda parts store and order an AST cap.
For those wanting a 0 psi cap, just go to your local Mazda parts store and order an AST cap.
04-13-02, 10:40 AM
#112
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for all of the discussion that went on for months and months, I'm surprised there hasn't been more feedback.
did the group buy just die, or has no one posted because they are happy with the Evans product?
did the group buy just die, or has no one posted because they are happy with the Evans product?
04-13-02, 09:29 PM
#113
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well I found out the guy who owned the car before me had dexcool in there and I have a blown oring and I burn evens, the cool thing is it doesn't smoke the bad thing is the EGT goes up to 1400 degF normal driving. but I stoped driving it. untill I can fix this.
05-23-02, 09:56 AM
#115
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For those of you wanting a few more quantifiables FWIW here are my numbers -
Running a mild street ported, single RX6 turbo with ~350 miles on the new engine (haven't taken it above ~5K RPMs - factor that in).
Temps have run anywhere from 84C on a cool night last weekend in light traffic around town, to 94C in heavy traffic in 90F+ weather outside. Normally, the range is between about 88C and 92C. All this is without a belly pan and front lip spoiler (waiting to install them). So my guess is I'll be running 2-3 degrees cooler with some air flow down there. I'm very pleased.
Hope that helps a little.
-E
p.s. This is with the stock radiator.
Running a mild street ported, single RX6 turbo with ~350 miles on the new engine (haven't taken it above ~5K RPMs - factor that in).
Temps have run anywhere from 84C on a cool night last weekend in light traffic around town, to 94C in heavy traffic in 90F+ weather outside. Normally, the range is between about 88C and 92C. All this is without a belly pan and front lip spoiler (waiting to install them). So my guess is I'll be running 2-3 degrees cooler with some air flow down there. I'm very pleased.
Hope that helps a little.
-E
p.s. This is with the stock radiator.
Last edited by enuttage; 05-23-02 at 09:58 AM.
05-23-02, 10:17 AM
#116
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I have a question ... Do you retain the overflow resevoir? Or do you eliminate that? Also, would you need to have an ast or not? Is there much of a chance air will get into the system?
05-30-02, 09:15 PM
#119
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Hey everyone! I just thought I would share some of my experience, and some install tips since nobody wants to talk about this wonderful stuff!!
I re-read most of the thread, since it had been in limbo for a few months, and one of the comments both scared me, and reminded me of the following tip:
1) When you add your NPG+, be exceedingly careful to avoid a vapor lock in the block!! In probably half of the installs I have performed, the first gallon goes in easy, but around 1 1/4 gallons, the rad is full and the block is still empty. 'massage' the lower rad hose while placing your palm over the fill neck to burp the block. VERY important! If you start the engine in this state, the dash gauge will BURY itself, while the ECU's sending unit in the water pump housing will report a reasonable temperature. Meanwhile, the block is cooking itself and building steam pressure from the residual water in the block; this makes it even more difficult to get the good stuff in there. Whew! That was longwinded, but I read a previous thread where someone experienced this and reported 'wierd'. Make sure you get a full fill, and burp that block!!
2) Get all of the water out! Any time I rebuild an engine, I skip the Sierra conversion process. The block is sneaky about retaining coolant even with the block drain pulled -- so you MUST use the Sierra conversion process if your engine is simply drained. However, I use compressed air to evacuate the heater core (don't forget the heater core!) and the radiator. Make sure the heat selector is set at HOT to make sure the valve is open to the heater core for a complete evacuation of the old coolant. You will still have a very small amount of residual coolant even with all of these steps. The die-hards would be advised to use the Sierra conversion for any NPG+ installation.
To evacuate the remaining moisture, Evan's recommends running the engine at 280 deg with the cap removed! OUch... that sounds scary. They further convince you that this is a safe practice for an Evan's equipped engine. If anyone is brave enough to try this, please let me know! My approach is to leave the cap off an let the car idle for a period with the fan relays pulled. I don't go that hot, and I constantly check temps of crucial components with an IR thermometer (F&R block, rad hoses, etc) while the residual moisture steams off.
3) Since that last point was quite long, I will seperate this tip into a seperate topic to stress its importance. Since all water may not be removed, as discussed in the last tip, I feel it is best to run a low pressure cap for a few hundred miles. I had seen residual moisture simply force the evans out on a 0 PSI system. I hate to think of where this steam might be generating, but I have a hunch it would be somewhere HOT such as in a turbo cartridge. For this reason, I run a stock cap, or low pressure cap until I am convinced that all steam has vented out of the system. See why the Seirra conversion is suddenly starting to look worthwhile?
4) Don't forget to drain the resevoir and clean it well. You can get the resevoir out on an FD without removing the wheel, just a few 10mm bolts on the fender liner, and then (2) 10mm fasteners holding the resovoir need to be removed. I would not trus siphoning out the old coolant for the above mentioned reasons. Besides, you will not want the crust in that resevoir to enter your pristine NPG+ equipped cooling system, will you?
I have found that the Evan's equipped cars maintain much more stable temperatures. I am used to driving at blistering speeds, and then glancing down at the temp gauge to see nasty peak temperatures. The same cars with evans seem to take much longer to experience temperature increases, and certainly do not reach as high. 'Normal' driving temps do seem to be elevated ever so slightly (only verifiable on an aftermarket gauge -- not visible on the nonlinear scaled stock gauge).
5) It just smells better -- like theatrical fog juice. Yummy
Hope these tips help!! Maybe more questions would remind me of more tips. Surely some other users have some experiences/comments? I sell a ton of this stuff, and recommend it to everyone. I require it on all of my rebuilds just as Rob does.
George
I re-read most of the thread, since it had been in limbo for a few months, and one of the comments both scared me, and reminded me of the following tip:
1) When you add your NPG+, be exceedingly careful to avoid a vapor lock in the block!! In probably half of the installs I have performed, the first gallon goes in easy, but around 1 1/4 gallons, the rad is full and the block is still empty. 'massage' the lower rad hose while placing your palm over the fill neck to burp the block. VERY important! If you start the engine in this state, the dash gauge will BURY itself, while the ECU's sending unit in the water pump housing will report a reasonable temperature. Meanwhile, the block is cooking itself and building steam pressure from the residual water in the block; this makes it even more difficult to get the good stuff in there. Whew! That was longwinded, but I read a previous thread where someone experienced this and reported 'wierd'. Make sure you get a full fill, and burp that block!!
2) Get all of the water out! Any time I rebuild an engine, I skip the Sierra conversion process. The block is sneaky about retaining coolant even with the block drain pulled -- so you MUST use the Sierra conversion process if your engine is simply drained. However, I use compressed air to evacuate the heater core (don't forget the heater core!) and the radiator. Make sure the heat selector is set at HOT to make sure the valve is open to the heater core for a complete evacuation of the old coolant. You will still have a very small amount of residual coolant even with all of these steps. The die-hards would be advised to use the Sierra conversion for any NPG+ installation.
To evacuate the remaining moisture, Evan's recommends running the engine at 280 deg with the cap removed! OUch... that sounds scary. They further convince you that this is a safe practice for an Evan's equipped engine. If anyone is brave enough to try this, please let me know! My approach is to leave the cap off an let the car idle for a period with the fan relays pulled. I don't go that hot, and I constantly check temps of crucial components with an IR thermometer (F&R block, rad hoses, etc) while the residual moisture steams off.
3) Since that last point was quite long, I will seperate this tip into a seperate topic to stress its importance. Since all water may not be removed, as discussed in the last tip, I feel it is best to run a low pressure cap for a few hundred miles. I had seen residual moisture simply force the evans out on a 0 PSI system. I hate to think of where this steam might be generating, but I have a hunch it would be somewhere HOT such as in a turbo cartridge. For this reason, I run a stock cap, or low pressure cap until I am convinced that all steam has vented out of the system. See why the Seirra conversion is suddenly starting to look worthwhile?
4) Don't forget to drain the resevoir and clean it well. You can get the resevoir out on an FD without removing the wheel, just a few 10mm bolts on the fender liner, and then (2) 10mm fasteners holding the resovoir need to be removed. I would not trus siphoning out the old coolant for the above mentioned reasons. Besides, you will not want the crust in that resevoir to enter your pristine NPG+ equipped cooling system, will you?
I have found that the Evan's equipped cars maintain much more stable temperatures. I am used to driving at blistering speeds, and then glancing down at the temp gauge to see nasty peak temperatures. The same cars with evans seem to take much longer to experience temperature increases, and certainly do not reach as high. 'Normal' driving temps do seem to be elevated ever so slightly (only verifiable on an aftermarket gauge -- not visible on the nonlinear scaled stock gauge).
5) It just smells better -- like theatrical fog juice. Yummy
Hope these tips help!! Maybe more questions would remind me of more tips. Surely some other users have some experiences/comments? I sell a ton of this stuff, and recommend it to everyone. I require it on all of my rebuilds just as Rob does.
George
05-30-02, 10:44 PM
#121
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I want to use evans but my car is still over heating since I put it in and my friend just biult a new motor and only used evans ans his over heats to. whats up with that??
05-31-02, 08:57 AM
#123
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You want the rubber ring so the cap will seal, but you do not want the spring, etc. This way the coolant can still flow freely to the resevoir, but not leak around the cap. The cap that is factory on the water pump filler is the one you want to use.
amemiya: I doubt your friend's overheating has anything to do with the evan's. Which gauge is indicating this? A factory gauge? And of course your problems can't be attributed to the evans since you have not installed it yet.
amemiya: I doubt your friend's overheating has anything to do with the evan's. Which gauge is indicating this? A factory gauge? And of course your problems can't be attributed to the evans since you have not installed it yet.
05-31-02, 08:59 AM
#124
Super Newbie
Originally posted by Exit13B
You want the rubber ring so the cap will seal, but you do not want the spring, etc. This way the coolant can still flow freely to the resevoir, but not leak around the cap. The cap that is factory on the water pump filler is the one you want to use.
You want the rubber ring so the cap will seal, but you do not want the spring, etc. This way the coolant can still flow freely to the resevoir, but not leak around the cap. The cap that is factory on the water pump filler is the one you want to use.
$16!
05-31-02, 09:56 AM
#125
Hey, where did my $$$ go?
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Originally posted by amemiya
I want to use evans but my car is still over heating since I put it in and my friend just biult a new motor and only used evans ans his over heats to. whats up with that??
I want to use evans but my car is still over heating since I put it in and my friend just biult a new motor and only used evans ans his over heats to. whats up with that??
It may not be over heating. Evans says that your temps might be higher but thats because its absorbing more engine heat making you engine cooler. How hot is your getting? I know this is a stupid question, but do you have it filled all the way with no bad air pockets?
STEPHEN