Either e-mail Rob, or call him at 503-233-3878. He'll straighten things out for shure. CJ

yeah I have done both have not got a response yet he doesn't know what happened:(

Any testimonials yet on the NPG+ and temps? Max?

Tim Benton

well I don't have exact temps but I love it. no one should have tohe tourture of not having evans in there system. this stuff is great. the is no pressure. and the car feels much stronger. I will never go back to old coolant. NEVER. I have all my friends ordering it.

Nothing yet. I'm still futzing around with odds and ends before I take it to MazdaTrix for a rebuild. I'll post when I get the car back together and run a track event.

-Max

Its been a while now, anyone else want to share thier feeling about Evans now that they are using it?

Later,
STEPHEN

just put some in a customers car, it feels stronger but i have not figured out the temp readings yet, but what seems to happen is that when the car sits and heats the water (after running it of course) the temp gauge will stay wherever it is when i start the car back up and gradually go back down. i like it. i did notice that my air temp readings are way down though and since the upr/lwr manifolds are ceramic coated the heat usually will stick around longer before going down. if you are sitting in traffic naturally the temp rises but immediately when you start moving the temp drop fast, this tells me that the motor itself is cooler so the coolant must be working better.

do you need to remove the thermostat when running the NPG+? I live in hot weather climate (so FL).

One question......How do I eliminate the presurized cap on a Pettit aluminum AST ?? Do they sell a cap that fits the AST that is 0 Pressure ??? Thank you.

I have been using Evans for several months now and did noticed my water temps run a bit higher (10-15F). I have done a lot of work to my cooling system so it will run hard all day long on extremely tight road courses on those 105-degree TX summer days. Data logging (haltech) last year on just such a day with an 80/20 mix, my water temps never went above 235F. I have been on the same course this year on an 80-degree day, Evans temps went up to 225F, we will see when temps start getting really hot down here.
The theory with Evans is that you can run safely with much higher indicated water temps. Actual engine internal temperatures are lower even though your gauge says your running hotter, I believe it. I performed a little test using my kitchen stove, a pot, and an infrared temperature gauge. I poured 1” of 80/20 mix in a pot and placed it on a preheated burner, then started recording fluid temps every 30 seconds. I did the same with 1” of Evans, (note; a contact sensor probe would be more accurate for this test) anyway from what I found the Evans absorbed the burner heat more than twice as fast as the water and the boiling point was a lot higher, cooling rates were not that different.
You can just drill the center pressure cap valve to have a no pressure system or you can find a 6PSI cap at most local auto part stores.

Just finished my Evans install (along with new engine) and haven't noticed any significant difference in coolant temps. It's been awhile since I drove the car plus I have reset the fan temps so I doubt I'll see a difference until the Houston summer arrives. All experiences with the Evans have been excellent so far and it just feels good to run 0 psi for hose and seal integrity.

For those wanting a 0 psi cap, just go to your local Mazda parts store and order an AST cap.

for all of the discussion that went on for months and months, I'm surprised there hasn't been more feedback.

did the group buy just die, or has no one posted because they are happy with the Evans product?

well I found out the guy who owned the car before me had dexcool in there and I have a blown oring and I burn evens, the cool thing is it doesn't smoke the bad thing is the EGT goes up to 1400 degF normal driving. but I stoped driving it. untill I can fix this.

I want to change my coolant with my engine rebuild, but I just haven't been able to get to it yet. I'll report back after that.

-Max

For those of you wanting a few more quantifiables FWIW here are my numbers -

Running a mild street ported, single RX6 turbo with ~350 miles on the new engine (haven't taken it above ~5K RPMs - factor that in).

Temps have run anywhere from 84C on a cool night last weekend in light traffic around town, to 94C in heavy traffic in 90F+ weather outside. Normally, the range is between about 88C and 92C. All this is without a belly pan and front lip spoiler (waiting to install them). So my guess is I'll be running 2-3 degrees cooler with some air flow down there. I'm very pleased.

Hope that helps a little.

-E

p.s. This is with the stock radiator.

I have a question ... Do you retain the overflow resevoir? Or do you eliminate that? Also, would you need to have an ast or not? Is there much of a chance air will get into the system?

question. how are all of yall pulling off the whole 0 psi system?

How do you mean? The cap, or something else?

-E

Hey everyone! I just thought I would share some of my experience, and some install tips since nobody wants to talk about this wonderful stuff!!

I re-read most of the thread, since it had been in limbo for a few months, and one of the comments both scared me, and reminded me of the following tip:

1) When you add your NPG+, be exceedingly careful to avoid a vapor lock in the block!! In probably half of the installs I have performed, the first gallon goes in easy, but around 1 1/4 gallons, the rad is full and the block is still empty. 'massage' the lower rad hose while placing your palm over the fill neck to burp the block. VERY important! If you start the engine in this state, the dash gauge will BURY itself, while the ECU's sending unit in the water pump housing will report a reasonable temperature. Meanwhile, the block is cooking itself and building steam pressure from the residual water in the block; this makes it even more difficult to get the good stuff in there. Whew! That was longwinded, but I read a previous thread where someone experienced this and reported 'wierd'. Make sure you get a full fill, and burp that block!!

2) Get all of the water out! Any time I rebuild an engine, I skip the Sierra conversion process. The block is sneaky about retaining coolant even with the block drain pulled -- so you MUST use the Sierra conversion process if your engine is simply drained. However, I use compressed air to evacuate the heater core (don't forget the heater core!) and the radiator. Make sure the heat selector is set at HOT to make sure the valve is open to the heater core for a complete evacuation of the old coolant. You will still have a very small amount of residual coolant even with all of these steps. The die-hards would be advised to use the Sierra conversion for any NPG+ installation.
To evacuate the remaining moisture, Evan's recommends running the engine at 280 deg with the cap removed! OUch... that sounds scary. They further convince you that this is a safe practice for an Evan's equipped engine. If anyone is brave enough to try this, please let me know! My approach is to leave the cap off an let the car idle for a period with the fan relays pulled. I don't go that hot, and I constantly check temps of crucial components with an IR thermometer (F&R block, rad hoses, etc) while the residual moisture steams off.

3) Since that last point was quite long, I will seperate this tip into a seperate topic to stress its importance. Since all water may not be removed, as discussed in the last tip, I feel it is best to run a low pressure cap for a few hundred miles. I had seen residual moisture simply force the evans out on a 0 PSI system. I hate to think of where this steam might be generating, but I have a hunch it would be somewhere HOT such as in a turbo cartridge. For this reason, I run a stock cap, or low pressure cap until I am convinced that all steam has vented out of the system. See why the Seirra conversion is suddenly starting to look worthwhile?

4) Don't forget to drain the resevoir and clean it well. You can get the resevoir out on an FD without removing the wheel, just a few 10mm bolts on the fender liner, and then (2) 10mm fasteners holding the resovoir need to be removed. I would not trus siphoning out the old coolant for the above mentioned reasons. Besides, you will not want the crust in that resevoir to enter your pristine NPG+ equipped cooling system, will you?

I have found that the Evan's equipped cars maintain much more stable temperatures. I am used to driving at blistering speeds, and then glancing down at the temp gauge to see nasty peak temperatures. The same cars with evans seem to take much longer to experience temperature increases, and certainly do not reach as high. 'Normal' driving temps do seem to be elevated ever so slightly (only verifiable on an aftermarket gauge -- not visible on the nonlinear scaled stock gauge).

5) It just smells better -- like theatrical fog juice. Yummy

Hope these tips help!! Maybe more questions would remind me of more tips. Surely some other users have some experiences/comments? I sell a ton of this stuff, and recommend it to everyone. I require it on all of my rebuilds just as Rob does.

George

To your question. "how are all of yall pulling off the whole 0 psi system?"

I simply used the AST cap in place of the radiator cap and eliminated the AST.

I want to use evans but my car is still over heating since I put it in and my friend just biult a new motor and only used evans ans his over heats to. whats up with that??

To get a 0 PSI cap, just remove the rubber ring on the cap. I believe this was covered several times in the beginning of this thread.

You want the rubber ring so the cap will seal, but you do not want the spring, etc. This way the coolant can still flow freely to the resevoir, but not leak around the cap. The cap that is factory on the water pump filler is the one you want to use.

amemiya: I doubt your friend's overheating has anything to do with the evan's. Which gauge is indicating this? A factory gauge? And of course your problems can't be attributed to the evans since you have not installed it yet.

http://www.mazdatrix.com/getprice.as...m=15-2050-KF01

$16! :eek:

It may not be over heating. Evans says that your temps might be higher but thats because its absorbing more engine heat making you engine cooler. How hot is your getting? I know this is a stupid question, but do you have it filled all the way with no bad air pockets?

STEPHEN

I fill it up and burp it. and then go for a drive and it spits it all out the overflow and then goes right off the gauge. but I think I have a blown water seals cuz the exaust smells like evans. I am going to pull the motor apart this weak and see how everything looks.

hmm, I was close but no cigar, at least I can kinda blame it on not reading this thread in uhm, how many months?

*edit*
I wonder if I could use this stuff in a quad? I'm probably getting a Warrior soon (gotta love payments :) ) and it's liquid cooled, this would be rather cool to see if it actually showed improvements, although a quad would be easy to contaminate it with seeing how I'd be trying not bog when speeding through creeks.

And I this is my 5,432nd post

5
4
3
2
ONE!!!
BRASTOFFFF!!!!

No wonder I gave bad info, bad info was given on the first page...twice
"remove the rubber o-ring"
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=31518 <---for those too lazy to go to the first page

I have a mildy built lt500, and my brother has a realy built banchee and after using this stuff, the bike never will get so hot you have to let it cool down for awhile. Keep in mind we run mostly the dunes. CJ

Do you have to get an evans thermostat, like they recommend so there is no bypass?

Not required! Only the fluid needs changed!

amemiya: Are you running a pressurized cap? If you have residual water, it will do what you are describing!
Of course, it is very likely you have a blown seal, too. This would definitely be my diagnosis if you were running regular coolant! I had a used car dealer call a couple of weeks ago to see if I had a used overflow tank for sale. I replied "Yes, but you need a new engine" "What do you mean", he replied "I only have a leaky resevoir" He was confused about my instant diagnosis, but the car ended up at the shop a couple days later with confirmed o-ring failure. Opps.
We'll keep our fingers crossed. If you have not done so, try the techniques described previously to flash off any water. Or, sniff above the filler neck with the cap removed on an emissions machine. If you see HC's or CO, than you know an o-ring has failed!

:drool: quadzilla :drool:
Nothing more attractive than a 500cc two stroke :)

thanks for your help and yes I have removed the o ring, I am pretty sure it is the o ring cuz it will realy lose all it's coolant if I boost it alot, if I try not to let the turbo spool it will last alot long before losing all the coolant. I should have it apart by the end of the weak. I will try to get some pics, I am going bridge port this time around.

My AST broke and caused the NPG+ to get to 133C
Engine seems fine though, safe to say all the water is out?

Hmm.. 271 F, probably not all that bad since the coolant still can't boil at that temperature. It will be interesting to monitor your progress over the next years to see how the engine fares from the experience, and then to see inside to see how the o-rings look. I am curious what the oil temps would have risen to by then? I guess all the water is out though, good technique!

I removed the rubber seal from the radiator cap and the Evans leaked out causing the low level warning buzzer to go off. How do I get 0 psi for this? What do you guys do to?

IT SAYS THAT IT IS OPTIMAL FROM 4500 TO 6500 RPM SO UNLESS YOU RACE ALOT AND KEEP YOUR RPMS IN THAT RANGE THAN IT IS RESTRICTIVE

WOOPS!

i've been running the NPG+ in my auto, and have had no overheating problems at all. i'm very pleased with the results.

last summer was hell without it.

Well I got a Koyo and some new hoses since I was having some overheating problems before. Now if I let it sit and idle, it goes up to 100C and stays there for about 10 minutes and then starts climbing up to 110c unless I take it for a spin. After about 3 minutes of driving the temps go to 96c and stay there. I come back and park and it goes to 97, then about 5 minutes later 98, then 3 minutes and 100, then another 3 and it's 103 and time for another spin around the block. I'm not sure how high it would go before it stabilized if I didn't go for a drive, I'm too chicken. The PowerFC starts reving the engine when you hit 103c, is there a way to change the point at which it does that? It seems that 103c is just fine for NPG+, right? Thanx!
-Jedon
ps. Oh and that Koyo sure holds a lot more fluid, I drained about 3/4 gallon out of the old radiator and then put that plus a whole nother gallon in! Now I have no spare NPG+, I guess I'll have to order more. (I got 4 gallons initially).

Oh and I have both a 0psi (no pressure, removed spring) and .9bar cap, I'm running the .9bar cap right now.

bump^ any other reviews???

well I fixed my problem I detonated real bad before I put the evens in from a 18 psi boost spike, it blew a chunk of my casting off. Now I have a bridge port still with the stock radiator and the temp stays pretty nice even here in the desert at 100+ degF. I love the stuff no pressure in the system. I will never go back to regular antifreeze.

FWIW, I'm peaking at ~94C in heavy stop and go traffic with no belly pan in 95F outdoor temperature (no doubt hotter on the road).

So far, so great.

-E

I'm running it in both of my tractors untill my motor is up and running for the 7. I have had no probs so far. The kubota would run hot at least once while mowing 5 acre, after evans npg+ no overheating problems a t all, even in 100^+ days

More news: I put my belly pan on and it helped dramatically. Now cruising at 80mph in 3rd on the highway temps are locked in at 83c. If I hit traffic or drive it harder (not too hard, only 750 miles on my new engine...) temps go up to 88 or so, sometimes 93 if it's really hot out. If I turn the fans on with the A/C on 2 trick (My actual AC doesn't work due to PFC) temps drop to 76c under light throttle at freeway speeds or high 80's c under boost or in traffic. If I had computer control of the fans I think I could keep it always in the low 80's.
BTW, air intake temps dropped from 66-75c to 45c with the belly pan and IC duct, I would consider them manditory.
-Jedon

THIS IS PROBABLY THE LONGEST THREAD THAT STAYED ON TOPIC!

Just for GRIGGLES I took some PRESTONE LOW TOX, sierra knockoff, and boiled it. Boiling point was 318 degrees F, gave off lots of water vapor. After it cooled I went to pour it out and you should have seen the CRUD {Bonus question: What does "CRUD" stand for?}
that formed in the pan. Pics in this thread:
https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...threadid=93197

nasty