comon guys!! i been using EVANS since 1989, in my CAMARO, In my V-12 JAGUAR, and since 1998 in my RX7 T11, and now in my FD. Do you know it was developed for BLACKHAWK helicoptors, cant be all that bad, you wouldnt put WATER in one would you!! let me think here,, ETHYLENE GLYCOL was developed in 1943 for that old tank called P-51 MUSTANG , nice old plane, but ancient by todays standards. so why would anyone not use a modern product yesterday is gone forever!!!!!! and it would not surprise me if ther isnt a better coolant out there by now! ( Im not proud of this statment) THANK the GODS for WAR!

Wow.. got me beat... first used Evans in 92

Back from the dead. :)

BTW, I'm still using it. Its good stuff. CJ

I wouldn't put WATER in a Black Hawk because I have absolutely no idea where the radiator fill cap is located. For that matter, where is the radiator? Sorry, but I can't even find any coolant lines running to either of the air-cooled turbine engines on this darn thing.

Hmm, and I thought that ethylene glycol was invented by Charles-Adolphe Wurtz in 1859, and that the water/ethylene-glycol cooled Allison V-1710 engine was first developed for U.S. Navy airships, and saw service in the P-38, P-39, and P-40 before "that old tank" was designed and built.

I think you have been hanging around those Embry-Riddle students too much over there in Daytona. They tend to insert aviation and war into every issue, if you know what I mean. ;)

so, any more possible group buys or whatever was going on earlier?

Contact Blake to see if Pineapple would be interested. CJ

11 pages to save $2.00, gotta love Rotarheads LOL

:rlaugh: Haha....yeah every penny counts when it comes to a Rotary.

Has anyone used both NPG+ and NPG-R, if so what was the noticeable difference if there was any?

-Silvio

yes, nanotechnology. And you will only need a radiator about 1/3 the size.

http://autospeed.drive.com.au/cms/A_2056/article.html
Well, its not on themarket as yet because the equipment to make this is super expensive.

Ran the hill climb last weekend and my cooling system worked great with NPG+.

It was ~90 deg F out and the hill has 1,300 ft elevation change over its 2.2 miles, lots of tight corners.

On my 2nd and 3rd runs up the coolant temps rose to ~1/3rd of gauge (S4 TII) which my Haltech says is ~95 to 100C, oil temps peaked at 100C and EGTs at 800C.

27"x19" Griffin 2 row radiator, NPG+, front mounted stock TII oil cooler and horizontal mount IC with its own inlet duct. 11.5:1 AF under .5 bar boost, 11:1 at 1 bar boost and 10.8:1 after 6,000rpm.

You can't run NPG+ with an EWP though. :( NPG R should be alright.

back up

ok i've been running evans for a while now.......i was just reading up on their website and noticed that it said 7psi pressure cap is recommended..... i have a cap on my car thats over double that, should i not be running that cap?

anyone?

Why run that high of a pressure if it's not required? All it's doing is adding extra stress on parts of your coolant system. A 7 psi cap is cheap and shouldn't much if any effect on coolant temps, but will help reduce load on the seals, coolant hoses, etc....

well it was somthing i just realised, honestly...... i have the greddy cap on my car so that'll be coming off time to get a 7psi cap

7 LB. rad cap
 

HEY! Glassman ,where can I get 7 PSI radiator caps that will fit the Mazda RX7 , called EVANS they do not supply such. I do it rather crudely by torching the spring and they always vary in pressure, be nice to get hold of an adjustable cap. set it up on a cap test unit ,then set it to maybe 5-7 psi.. thx RON

I found my 7psi cap at PepBoys or Auto Zone a few years ago.

Jack

I just called evans to order a 7psi cap, and the tech support told me that on an rx7 i should be running a stock 13psi cap (ast). Has anyone else run into this? Now i'm really confused..... lol

you should be fine with the 7 psi cap. just don't try to run 0 psi. it didn't work for me. Coolant didn't move back and forth between the overflow appropriately.

I have always run the no pressure cap and never have any problems. In fact went to Lime Rock to today, max water temp on PFC, 85C.

I think part of my problem was that in the beginning people were "modding" their stock caps to get 0 psi. I can't recall the exact circumstances because it has been so long, but I think it my case my "modded 0 psi cap" wasn't 100% sealed, so no vacuum was able to be developed when things cooled and the evans didn't move from the overflow back to the radiator. It seems reasonable that with a properly sealed 0 psi cap things should work ok. I guess I should add also YMMV.

85C at the track? what was the ambient temp? what mods do you have? Once warm I haven't seen 85C since I was totally stock.

Air temps were in the low 60's F

Koyo N pass Radiator
Crooked Willow Double Oil Coolers
Vented Hood
Aquamist 1s Water injection
M2 Medium IC
To4E 57 trim .84 a/r (12.5 psi)
Open Exhaust

does the water injection help lower temps as well?

We use it in the Falken FD drift car. Car has a Blitz radiator and a Blitz FMIC and we run the NPG+. The hottest we have gotten with the Evans is 106C off the AIM Digital dash. Before with water, it would boil over after running alot of laps consistently (like 6 or more in a row). We have never had any overhaeting issues with the Evans, and we switched from regular water to Evans at the track :D We just drained the coolant, filled with water a couple times (warming up, then drain and repeat) and then once we were getting just clear water out on the drain, we drained the whole car (radiator and block) and started the motor for 20-30 seconds to heat up any left over water to steam, and poured in the Evans. Not the right way to do it, but it worked. We have had the same Evans in the car now for over a year with no problems. On the new RX-8 we built, we are just running water/coolant because the setup is alot better with the v-mount and the radiator is a custom setup with dual cores, and double pass so we don't have any heat problems at all. But on the FD that liked to run hot, it worked like a charm.

Not sure, might help keep the EGT's down a bit, however, I listed all the bolt on's related to cooling and felt WI should be included.

I have run NPG+ for 2 years with 1.5 yearsi in Phoenix AZ. It runs hot like 120C with outside temp at 115F.

My dash gauge has recently started to move from the 9 oclock position with the PFC reading 105C. I think my heater core is clogged due to the block weld. I'm going to take the radiator out to flush it and bypass the heater core to see if this fixes the problem.

Here is some more information for a Rotax aircraft engine: http://www.caa.govt.nz/Airworthiness...ines/rotax.pdf

no wonder i always see those damn evans jugs laying around your shop =P I think I'll got his route as well.

What's the consensus on if you have a PFC and are planning to switch to Evans NPG+ ?

Do I still need to get it re-tuned since the Evans holds more heat ?

TIA,
:-) neil

I would guess only if you are planning on running more than 110C. Otherwise 100C is 100C whether you are using Evan's or not. The PFC won't know the difference.

I haven't seen more than 88C on temps; outside temps around 85F. The Evan's and V-mount works great. I also use a .9 bar cap without any problems. Evan's recommends that you at least run a normal pressure cap for a few cycles so you get all the air out of the system.

anyone know where to get the evans for cheap now? lol

eBay <--- link

I have been running evans for about 3 months now, IT IS THE GREATest

I havent seen over 180F in the heat of texas. Also running a electric water pump.

Running 7psi cap on the AST, the AST is the fill point for my custom system.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b1...t13b/evans.jpg

I've been running Evans NPGR for a few months now, in a custom cooling system with electric water pump. Cap is zero rated and swirl pot is just big enough to allow for expansion. Water temp is constant 68C except at standstill with fans cutting in at 86C.

http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b5...okia/002-1.jpg

Unfortunately, they want to charge you like $13 to ship ONE gallon.

The site below is less expensive ($27.50/gal), and the freight is $10 via UPS ground to the 48-contiguous states. That's $120 for four (4) gallons shipped!!

:-) neil

http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?fo...ction=category

PM Blake, (Pineapple Racing) and see if he would like to do a GB. I have'nt talked to him about it or anything, but he might be willing. CJ

wouldn't mind putting this stuff in my new rebuild.

Shipping is going to be the killer on any group buy of fluids, esp. heavy fluids.
A flat-rate of $8 or $10 for 4-gallons and a price of $27.50 is very inexpensive, IMHO.

Didn't the last Pineapple GB have batches shipped to various distribution regions c/o forum members.

IMHO, what a PITA.

:-) neil

Bumping this old thread. I'm interested in running this coolant and thought of a few questions.

Since NPG products don't mix well with water and such measures are taken to get all of the water/vapor out of the system, then how would you address the issue of water getting into the overflow tank? Driving in the rain, being very humid and the possibility of water getting thrown into the tank, and just moisture from the atmosphere (the overflow tank is vented). Water gets into the overflow tank, and is sucked into the engine with heating/cooling cycles, thus contaminating your NPG system.

And I'm curious as to how the expansion/contraction rates are compared to conventional water/coolant setups. Maybe the Evans expands much less than regular coolant at regular driving temps?

If that were the case, then a sealed system without an overflow tank would be possible. If the NPG only expanded to cause a few psi increase at normal operating temps, then you could safely run a sealed system and the system pressure wouldn't exceed that of what the stock radiator cap allows.

These are just random thoughts I've come up with since people are using NPG with 0psi pressure caps. Someone prove me wrong :)

i don't think it would hurt to run a sealed system. maybe an over flow tank that seals well.

the biggest benefit of evans is you don't need to run it pressurized. so i will keep the stock over flow tank. the contamination will be so minimal over a few years i wouldn't stress it.

I'm thinking the overflow tank has to be vented to work as designed. Otherwise pressure and vacuum would just develop in the overflow tank as the fluid expands and contracts.

And the more I think about it, I agree that contamination will be little to worry about. I guess it doesn't help that I have no fender liners though :wallbash: