Evans Cooling Systems!!!!!!!
 

Anyone in here using or tried the Evans Coolant in their rx-7?
check out>>>www.evanscooling.com
Seems like some good!

crispeed

is sounds really good, i would like to know too if someone has experience with it

Re: Evans Cooling Systems!!!!!!!
 

"Meloco" and I run that stuff on our cars..best shit out there
Rob at pineappleracing.com got us hooked on it

Steve

hows the cost of that NPG cost over normal coolant

The stuff is great. I was one of the very first people to actually use it through Pineapple Racing. (I'm his test subject alot of times.) As far as costs go, i think its $20+shipping.

I beleive that Rob won't warrenty a 3rd gen motor without this stuff running in the car. CJ

Seems like it's very good! It should really help 3rd gens keep cool and run a lot better.

crispeed

i like the radiator!! i wonder if they are good!!

so pineapple racing sells it? how many gallons would ya need to fill the car up? am i reading it right you need no water? how does it do in the winter?

The only bad thing about the stuff is, it does'nt like to be contaminated with anything. No water or old coolant.

Its great for winter, because instead of expanding like water/coolant does, Evans shrinks.

I run it in my 3rd gen. This elimates the ast splitting, and the radiator from exploding. After all, it is a 0 psi system.

If you want to order some stuff contact Rob at 503-233-3878, just tell him that i sent ya, and he should give you a pretty good deal.

CJ

so what is the best way to flush the system before adding this stuff?

Evans NPG coolant is not compatible with normal coolant and contamination with water should be minimized. Simply draining and flushing the system is not enough. Rob recommends that you first drain and flush with water (don't forget to drain the block and the heater core!), then put in Sierra coolant straight, drive the car around with the heat on (to circulate the Sierra through the heater core) until it's fully warmed up and then drain it. Sierra will absorb most all of the water and is actually compatible with the Evans NPG. You might want to do this twice. Then fill'er up with Evans and you're set for the next 100,000+ miles :) Alternatively, you could get a shop that does AC service to apply a strong vacuum to the cooling system, which will make any residual moisture vaporize.

Some of the cool features of Evans NPG are (1) no water means no corrosion, thus no need to flush and refill every year (it's a lifetime product), (2) it works great a zero pressure (370 degree boiling point), (3) it remains liquid until 70 degrees below zero and shrinks instead of expanding, and never freezes (just turns slushy), (4) it does not nucleate boil, so heat transfer is much better than conventional coolant (typically you can run 2 degrees more spark advance, for more power). And when you drain the NPG for other reasons (swaping engine, etc.), you just put it right back in when you're done.

Rob says that the stock cooling system components are just fine, provided everything is clean and maintained (no gunk in radiator, new thermostat, etc). Rob also offers a money back guarantee, which he has only had to honor once (and the returned coolant was extremely contaminated, which indicated the customer didn't follow instructions). I believe he sells it for $26 per gallon, or $24 per gallon for 4 gallons or more. Yes, it costs quite a bit, but for what it provides, it's a bargain! $60 for coolant vs. $500+ for a high-performance aluminum radiator?

Blake, you said it better than i ever could have. CJ

would there be any performance gain over stock radiator w/ evans and upgraded radiator w/ evans?

What components need to be changed to run the coolant in an FD? For instance, what cap do you use, and do you run an AST? I understand the flushing instructions, but I need to know if I need to get any parts.

This looks like a very cool product (pun intended)!

Thanks,
-Max

I'm currently using the stock ast, and radiator. All i did was drain the motor/radiator as best i could. Then, i put in the Seirra, drove it for about 50 miles (Over a couple days.) Drained it again. Then installed the evans. For a 0 psi cap, all you have to do is remove the little o ring on the radaitor cap. Don't forget to take a vacuum, and suck out all of the old coolant out of the over flow bottle. CJ

Hmmm, I've read about their stuff before. But I thought that you had to have their radiator and other hardware to use it. So you're saying that I could use it with my Fluidyne radiator? I assume they provide a 0 psi radiator cap?

If I don't need a new radiator, I'll probably go with their stuff when I get my new engine ... since the system is already drained.

The timing of this thread couldn't be more perfect. It just so happens that I'm due for my anual coolant replacement, and I have been thinking about giving the Evans NPG a try.

Question: Those of you who are using it, what should I expect to see on my temp gauge? Lower temps, same temps, or higher temps? It wasn't quite clear to me when I read the Evans website. They say that the NPG doesn't absorb as much heat as water in liquid form, but since it has a higher boiling point, local boiling is minimized, which greatly aids in heat transfer. I guess it seems to me that if you are removing more heat from the engine, that heat has to go somewhere, so your coolant temps should be slightly higher....but that's just a guess. I want to hear from those who actually use the stuff.

Anyone care to comment on how their temperature readings have changed since using the NPG?

Sorry, it does'nt come with one. To make a 0 psi radiator cap, all you have to do is remove the little rubber seal, on the bottom of the cap.

As for readings, it stays just the same. However, a friend of mine who is running a Streetport/non seq./E6k, says that its about 5-10* cooler after a hard run vs having the normal coolant mix with water wetter.

The stuff heats up so much faster though, its amazing.

CJ

I always run a water pump lubricant....I wonder if you can or if it is needed..??BTW: What is "sierra"..?

Seirra is just anouther coolant that is compatable with Evans. CJ

Yeah, Sierra is that "pet friendly" alternative coolant, which like Evans is propylene glycol (PG) based, instead of ethylene glycol (EG) as found in conventional coolants. Evans is Non-aquious Propylene Glycol (NPG), which means it doesn't like water, but Sierra, on the other hand, loves water. This means you can flush out the system with water, drain, add straight Sierra, drive around for awhile, drain, and add Evans. This gets you from EG to PG to NPG with minimal contamination.

Evans has always insisted that special equipement is required, like a new water pump, radiator, and so forth. Not coincidentally, they happen to sell this specail hardware for most boinger applications. While it may or may not be true for most typical boingers, Rob has determined that it is a drop-in product for rotaries, provided the cooling system is clean and the product is not contaminated with water or old conventional coolant. Rob runs it in both of his REPUs, the GT2 race car, and has many satisfied customers running Evans, so I defer to his judgement as usual :) BTW, they recently came out with a slightly thinner formulation called NPG+, intended for street applications. Same price, same performance, just more compatible with stock hardware.

anyone

Perhaps, but not necessarily. A bigger radiator has (ideally) a better ability to reject heat, but you really don't need anything larger than whatever is required to do the job in the worst-case scenario (racing, driving up a steep grade in a high gear with AC on, or whatever). Since the Evans coolant does a better job, people are finding the stock radiator is more than adequate for most situations. However, bigger radiators are not detrimental, and they look really cool! :) Really, if just comes down to "am I overtaxing my radiator, or am I overtaxing my coolant?" The proper approach, IMHO, is to solve to coolant overtaxing issue definatively before tackling the radiator issue. You might need both, but perhaps not.

I'm sold, I'm going to use this stuff in my new engine ... telling me that it will work with the cooling hardware I have now was the big thing.

How about doing a group buy on the coolant? Go check out the prices, they drop off dramatically the more you buy. I bet we could get enough people to buy 100+ gallons and get the price down quite a bit.

If there's any interest, I'll start a thread in the Group Buy section.

Sounds good.

Ken

I'm in! But make sure you get the ok from the forum admins! Oh, wait... nevermind.

I'm in for real though!

Me too! Me too! I want some!
-Jedon

I'm in...pampering only the best for my baby ;)

im in

i'll buy. i need enough to fill the mazda comp racing radiator though

I'm in also!!!
and what is the capacity of the stock cooling system?
and could you just use the cap on the AST for the zero pressure cap since it does not have a spring/seal..

David

also where to get Sierra? I'll start running the sierra now till I get the Evans..

David

Talk to Rob@pineapple. (Pineappleracing.com.) I don't want to be in charge of a GB, either that talk to Blake. He might do it. CJ

I talked to rob today, and he said that he would be interested in doing a GB. I told him to check out this page, and he said he'd check it out as soon as he can. Hope this helps, CJ

evans coolant group buy
 

I was told you guys might be interested in a group buy on the Evans NPG+ coolant. Evans sells it for $20/gal on large purchases. I could get it to you for $17.30/gal if I ship the entire order to 1 local. I might be able to ship to 3 or less different locations if absolutely necessary. At this price I don't make much, so please keep this in mind. If you guys want to collect your unanswered questions and e mail them to me, I'll answer them! rob@pineappleracing.com

well im deff gonna get 6 gals( 3 for first fil..then after the first 500miles change..*new* motor) so if anyone in jersey wants to go in..all we need in 9 more gal and we get it for 20...ill see if vosko or ito wants to get in.....i mean 3$ off a gal is nice but havin to get from 1 location, 2 much hassle for me
len

I want to run the NPG+ in my car, so if it isn't more trouble than it is worth, I'd like to be a part of the group buy. I volunteer to be the Southern California drop point, so anyone in SoCal could get their coolant from me if that helps. I could bring it to SoCal7s events or people could arrange to pick it up individually. I am in Huntington Beach.

Any SoCal folks interested?

-Max

I'm in for 6 gallons but only if I can call some one today with my credit card # and have it shipped directg to me. Otherwise for $2.50 a gallon more I'll go direct to Evans.

Steve

Maxcooper

I won't be part of the group buy, but I'll just siphon it from Maxcooper's car.:noyes:

I can use about4 gallons of the stuff, but it is unlikely anyone else near me wants some. My friend is thinking of running it in his truck, we will see if he needs some.

Evans is so much more expensive than the water I have been running. But we are sure going to need something to help the stock cooling system in the OTC in May.

Max, im with you.
kindly, you brought me the apexi shift light (now you know who i am :) ) ,
this time ill pick it up in person.
BTW, how did the second dyno go at XS engineering?

oh, im in for 6 gallons.

So about how much evans will I need? And in order to zero out the caps, I just remove the rubber o-ring? On all the caps??

I'm in nor cal (east bay)...anybody else down for the gb?

Okay, I just came back from Pineapple Racing, where I talked to Rob about the group buy on the Evans NPG+. He wouldn't be making much, so he can't afford to devote much time or effort to the project. However, I offered to coordinate the group buy for him and he agreed.

Price would be $18 per gallon, in 4 gallon increments (each case is 4 gallons), plus shipping. No sales tax :) The key thing is that we don't want to split any cases, as that would make the venture too laborious, but we will ship as little as a single case (4 gallons) anywhere in the US. If you want, say, 6 gallons, then you would need to find someone else to team up with and buy three cases to split between you. Sound good?

Anyone interested should send me an email with his name, address, and the quantity desired. I'll need the zip code so I can get back to you with the shipping cost. Don't send any money yet. Let me compile a list of participants, estimate shipping for everyone, and then summons participants to send the money to Rob when the time comes. Please note that this will be a one-time deal. Rob is really not making much, so this is more of a promotion.

Sorry, I forgot to provide my email address :duh:

vrm@aracnet.com or blake@rotaryengineillustrated.com

I prefer emails, rather than PMs or a bunch of "I'm in" messages. I will post a followup message with all the participants, so you can verify your status.

Thank you,

In that case I won't be the SoCal drop point (we don't need one).

Thanks for taking this on, Blake.

-Max

Okay, so far we have 8 people, buying 10 cases (40 gallons) total. If you want in, let me know ASAP. The people I have so far are:

L. Bacon (1 case)
K. Oya (2 cases)
M. Cooper (2 cases)
E. Kang (1 case)
J. Coelho (1 case)
E. Schwab (1 case)
B. Foster (1 case)
D. Shao (1 case)

Early next week I will get the shipping costs figured out and send all participants a private email. Thanks....

Everyone remember that you want as little contamination as possiable. CJ

I might be getting some, I have a friend that might want some but I'm not sure if 4 gallons will be enought for both of us because he has a upgraded radiator on a TII that is larger than stock. I just dont want to get 8 gallons because we would have a ton left over.

I'll see him tonight and prob know in the morning.

Later,
STEPHEN