crispeed

Anyone in here using or tried the Evans Coolant in their rx-7?
check out>>>www.evanscooling.com
Seems like some good!

crispeed

David Hu$tlerhoff

is sounds really good, i would like to know too if someone has experience with it

Poweraxel

"Meloco" and I run that stuff on our cars..best **** out there
Rob at pineappleracing.com got us hooked on it

Steve

Node

iTrader: (1)

hows the cost of that NPG cost over normal coolant

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

The stuff is great. I was one of the very first people to actually use it through Pineapple Racing. (I'm his test subject alot of times.) As far as costs go, i think its $20+shipping.

I beleive that Rob won't warrenty a 3rd gen motor without this stuff running in the car. CJ

crispeed

Seems like it's very good! It should really help 3rd gens keep cool and run a lot better.

crispeed

soul assassin

so pineapple racing sells it? how many gallons would ya need to fill the car up? am i reading it right you need no water? how does it do in the winter?

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

The only bad thing about the stuff is, it does'nt like to be contaminated with anything. No water or old coolant.

Its great for winter, because instead of expanding like water/coolant does, Evans shrinks.

I run it in my 3rd gen. This elimates the ast splitting, and the radiator from exploding. After all, it is a 0 psi system.

If you want to order some stuff contact Rob at 503-233-3878, just tell him that i sent ya, and he should give you a pretty good deal.

CJ

soul assassin

so what is the best way to flush the system before adding this stuff?

Blake

Evans NPG coolant is not compatible with normal coolant and contamination with water should be minimized. Simply draining and flushing the system is not enough. Rob recommends that you first drain and flush with water (don't forget to drain the block and the heater core!), then put in Sierra coolant straight, drive the car around with the heat on (to circulate the Sierra through the heater core) until it's fully warmed up and then drain it. Sierra will absorb most all of the water and is actually compatible with the Evans NPG. You might want to do this twice. Then fill'er up with Evans and you're set for the next 100,000+ miles Alternatively, you could get a shop that does AC service to apply a strong vacuum to the cooling system, which will make any residual moisture vaporize.

Some of the cool features of Evans NPG are (1) no water means no corrosion, thus no need to flush and refill every year (it's a lifetime product), (2) it works great a zero pressure (370 degree boiling point), (3) it remains liquid until 70 degrees below zero and shrinks instead of expanding, and never freezes (just turns slushy), (4) it does not nucleate boil, so heat transfer is much better than conventional coolant (typically you can run 2 degrees more spark advance, for more power). And when you drain the NPG for other reasons (swaping engine, etc.), you just put it right back in when you're done.

Rob says that the stock cooling system components are just fine, provided everything is clean and maintained (no gunk in radiator, new thermostat, etc). Rob also offers a money back guarantee, which he has only had to honor once (and the returned coolant was extremely contaminated, which indicated the customer didn't follow instructions). I believe he sells it for $26 per gallon, or $24 per gallon for 4 gallons or more. Yes, it costs quite a bit, but for what it provides, it's a bargain! $60 for coolant vs. $500+ for a high-performance aluminum radiator?

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Blake, you said it better than i ever could have. CJ

Node

iTrader: (1)

would there be any performance gain over stock radiator w/ evans and upgraded radiator w/ evans?

maxcooper

What components need to be changed to run the coolant in an FD? For instance, what cap do you use, and do you run an AST? I understand the flushing instructions, but I need to know if I need to get any parts.

This looks like a very cool product (pun intended)!

Thanks,
-Max

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

I'm currently using the stock ast, and radiator. All i did was drain the motor/radiator as best i could. Then, i put in the Seirra, drove it for about 50 miles (Over a couple days.) Drained it again. Then installed the evans. For a 0 psi cap, all you have to do is remove the little o ring on the radaitor cap. Don't forget to take a vacuum, and suck out all of the old coolant out of the over flow bottle. CJ

BOOSTD 7

Hmmm, I've read about their stuff before. But I thought that you had to have their radiator and other hardware to use it. So you're saying that I could use it with my Fluidyne radiator? I assume they provide a 0 psi radiator cap?

If I don't need a new radiator, I'll probably go with their stuff when I get my new engine ... since the system is already drained.

Red Rotary Rocket

The timing of this thread couldn't be more perfect. It just so happens that I'm due for my anual coolant replacement, and I have been thinking about giving the Evans NPG a try.

Question: Those of you who are using it, what should I expect to see on my temp gauge? Lower temps, same temps, or higher temps? It wasn't quite clear to me when I read the Evans website. They say that the NPG doesn't absorb as much heat as water in liquid form, but since it has a higher boiling point, local boiling is minimized, which greatly aids in heat transfer. I guess it seems to me that if you are removing more heat from the engine, that heat has to go somewhere, so your coolant temps should be slightly higher....but that's just a guess. I want to hear from those who actually use the stuff.

Anyone care to comment on how their temperature readings have changed since using the NPG?

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, it does'nt come with one. To make a 0 psi radiator cap, all you have to do is remove the little rubber seal, on the bottom of the cap.

As for readings, it stays just the same. However, a friend of mine who is running a Streetport/non seq./E6k, says that its about 5-10* cooler after a hard run vs having the normal coolant mix with water wetter.

The stuff heats up so much faster though, its amazing.

CJ

Mr rx-7 tt

iTrader: (5)

I always run a water pump lubricant....I wonder if you can or if it is needed..??BTW: What is "sierra"..?

pp13bnos

iTrader: (1)

Seirra is just anouther coolant that is compatable with Evans. CJ

Blake

Yeah, Sierra is that "pet friendly" alternative coolant, which like Evans is propylene glycol (PG) based, instead of ethylene glycol (EG) as found in conventional coolants. Evans is Non-aquious Propylene Glycol (NPG), which means it doesn't like water, but Sierra, on the other hand, loves water. This means you can flush out the system with water, drain, add straight Sierra, drive around for awhile, drain, and add Evans. This gets you from EG to PG to NPG with minimal contamination.

Blake

Evans has always insisted that special equipement is required, like a new water pump, radiator, and so forth. Not coincidentally, they happen to sell this specail hardware for most boinger applications. While it may or may not be true for most typical boingers, Rob has determined that it is a drop-in product for rotaries, provided the cooling system is clean and the product is not contaminated with water or old conventional coolant. Rob runs it in both of his REPUs, the GT2 race car, and has many satisfied customers running Evans, so I defer to his judgement as usual BTW, they recently came out with a slightly thinner formulation called NPG+, intended for street applications. Same price, same performance, just more compatible with stock hardware.

Node

iTrader: (1)

anyone

Blake

Perhaps, but not necessarily. A bigger radiator has (ideally) a better ability to reject heat, but you really don't need anything larger than whatever is required to do the job in the worst-case scenario (racing, driving up a steep grade in a high gear with AC on, or whatever). Since the Evans coolant does a better job, people are finding the stock radiator is more than adequate for most situations. However, bigger radiators are not detrimental, and they look really cool! Really, if just comes down to "am I overtaxing my radiator, or am I overtaxing my coolant?" The proper approach, IMHO, is to solve to coolant overtaxing issue definatively before tackling the radiator issue. You might need both, but perhaps not.

BOOSTD 7

I'm sold, I'm going to use this stuff in my new engine ... telling me that it will work with the cooling hardware I have now was the big thing.