Dyno results (425 hp @ 28 psi) Pictures of carnage.
#1
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Dyno results (425 hp @ 28 psi) Pictures of carnage.
Few weeks ago, we attempted to tune my car on the dyno. The car wouldn't make power for nothing so I kept turning the boost up until it wouldn't run and boost anymore.
I just thought that we had spun a bearing because it wouldn't boost anymore and because there was a very loud knock in the motor.
So, I finally got around to draining the fluids and pulling the motor today. I was suprised to not find any copper in the drain pan. But, I had so much crap sitting in there from before that I might just have missed it.
I also did a compression test today, only getting one pulse on the rear rotor.
Anyhow, I started pulling it apart.......... then found something odd.
Son of a.... I forgot to tighten the compressor housing down
I just thought that we had spun a bearing because it wouldn't boost anymore and because there was a very loud knock in the motor.
So, I finally got around to draining the fluids and pulling the motor today. I was suprised to not find any copper in the drain pan. But, I had so much crap sitting in there from before that I might just have missed it.
I also did a compression test today, only getting one pulse on the rear rotor.
Anyhow, I started pulling it apart.......... then found something odd.
Son of a.... I forgot to tighten the compressor housing down
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It looks like all I need is a new compressor housing and a new compressor wheel. The shaft is still tight.
What do you think, fix the current one or upgrade to a 80mm wheel and have the current compressor housing machined?
What do you think, fix the current one or upgrade to a 80mm wheel and have the current compressor housing machined?
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Actually, some would say I don't need my current 75mm.
Our local turbo shop would balance it if I decide to go the 80mm route. Still debating on doing the 80mm or spending a few bucks on fixing mine.
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Ouch! That sucks dude! So you never heard the comp wheel grinding away on the housing?
Lies!!
Originally Posted by Viking War Hammer
Honestly, I don't need a 80mm, and sure as heck don't need a 83mm.
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jeez! that sucks! it could happen to the best (and worst) of us.
the way i see it is you'd either have to machine or replace the housing anyway. you said they'd be balancing everything, so why not just go with the 80 mm wheel? i know more is not always better, but in this case i think it could be the better option.
the way i see it is you'd either have to machine or replace the housing anyway. you said they'd be balancing everything, so why not just go with the 80 mm wheel? i know more is not always better, but in this case i think it could be the better option.
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But, I'm currently talking with paradise racing into a 80mm upgrade with the bullseye race cover. We'll see..
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I receive the quote from http://www.turbodaves.com/
But, I'm currently talking with paradise racing into a 80mm upgrade with the bullseye race cover. We'll see..
But, I'm currently talking with paradise racing into a 80mm upgrade with the bullseye race cover. We'll see..
ask him about the new bearing upgrade feature he has available.
http://www.paradiseracing.com/Store/...%20bearing.jpg
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I'm still thinking about it. My only concern is the high idle....and if I actually need it. I mean, guys are putting down 700+ hp on stock ports. I have no business driving around with 700hp in this light of a car.
Man, it's been too hot to do anything in the garage.
Man, it's been too hot to do anything in the garage.
#24
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Watch from 2:10 on. Thats idling about 1200. I think with a heavy flywheel you could get a stable idle at 1000.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_OqpVQN_eJo&feature=user