whats the most boost you can run with a single setup on pump gas???

 

million psi.




it depends on your setup.

 

I can make a car detonate under vacuum

It depends on SO many factors... the size/type of ports, your intercooler, outside air temps, which turbo you're using, what fuel you're running (not all gasoline is created equal... this is true from state to state, county to county, station to station, month to month... !!! ) and... the big one.... how the car is tuned!

 

on 93 octane, 15-17psi is about as far as you want to take it SAFELY

 

are you retarted? are you?!?!?!?! there are lots of 7's running tons more than that! TONS!

 

I tend to side with HWO on this one. I have heard around those numbers, maby just a tad higher like 18, but its your engine if you blow it up you have to replace it so boost away. I would not ever run over 15 without race fuel but thats just me being paranoid. I like the idea of running something with lead in it. I don't have any concrete experience with leaded fuel in rotaries, but in piston engines the lead lubricates the valves and cylinders (to some degree) and helps the valves, pistons, and cylinder temps run cooler. If this is similar with rotaries, whitch I wouldn't see why not, it would have to help to lubricate the apex seals and reduce the combustion temps in turn helping to prevent detonation. Just my $.02 which ant' worth ****.

 

That leaded fuel "lubricates" is a misnomer.

Before leaded fuel, piston engines had problems with the exhaust valves. The hot valve would slam onto its seat and micro-weld itself to the seat. Then when it opens again, it pulls the micro-welds apart like taffy. Over time this constant slamming and tearing really wrecks the valve and seat, and frequent valve jobs were commonplace.

Lead, on the other hand, helps a lot. What happens is the lead coats everything in the combustion chamber including the exhaust valve seat. The lead between the valve and seat cushions the blow and prevents this micro-welding. Result - greatly enhanced valve and seat life.

The lead used in fuel is also a great octane enhancer. The benefits don't come from any cooling effects due to the coating of everything, it's just a great octane booster.

What does this have to do with rotaries? Absolutely nothing! Think about this - do you really want lead deposits jamming your seals in their grooves?

 

how about if I had the following:
Intercooler = Greddy 2 row FMIC (single turbo)
outside temp = 40* F (min, cold) 100* F (max hot)
turbo kit = XS T04S (400 WHP goal)
port size = #1 stock port (#2 street port)
gasoline = 91 Octane (hooray for CA)
tuning = tuned to be one the "safe side"

TIA

 

 

How much boost does your school bus run?

 

So I'm guessing you own a tuning shop?...lol...

Name me ONE person...one.

 

Well today I ran just over 1.5bar (22psi) with following set up.

fuel 98 octane shell OPTIMAX unleaded with 200:1 premix in conjunction with OMP.
12 deg total advance at WOT full load (T&L no split)
Ambient temp of 14deg C.
Charge temp of 25deg C.
Altitude of 300m above sea level and barometric pressure of 101.3kpa
NKG B11EGV plugs + water injection @ 270ml/min.

All this was good for around 580bhp, no detonation at all.

 

You do good to get 93 octane in the States

 

Try 91 in Cali... I'm thinking of dropping to 12 or so psi as long as this is the case Plus half of the year it is oxygenated so it's more like 90.

~J

 

14-15 psi 18-19 if you feeling lucky

 

22psi on 98octane pump fuel netted me 500rwhp

*Please note this dyno graph is from a dyno dynamics chassis dyno. These dynos read 17%+/- less than a dynojet.

 

All of the above can be right. The better set up/cooler intake charge/ignition retard etc can give you the ability to run more boost. Some of the above guys tune their own deals, can rebuild their own engines and know the signs to look for when tuning an engine and approaching dangerous ground. I believe that a safe level of 14psi on that fuel should see you with some reliability and margin for error.
Regards-Anthony

 

Oh yeah, should have added I only use 15psi on the street

 

I don't boost over 1 kilo on the street. In the event that a GT-R pulls up, 1.2 is in order

 

Truer words cannot be said.....

I run 20.3 psi or 1.4 bar in my engine daily on the street with my above specs, which is safe with my combination.

Just remember fuel varies as does ambient conditions, I cannot stress this enough You can be running at sea level and at 100deg F day with a bit more advance and lower octane gas and BOOM ! 14 to 15 Psi is like our "Universal constant" for pump fueled (no extra enrichment) turbo rotaries if you want a fail safe (as close as) set up.

The key to what Anthony said that I like a lot is MARGIN FOR ERROR, you would be a fool to not run one... Better to be safe than sorry, especialy if your resources are limited to experiment.

 

I run 18psi and have had no problems. Its all about tuning.