boost gauge with BAR or PSI?
12-10-02, 10:04 PM
#1
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boost gauge with BAR or PSI?
What kind of boost gauge do most of you guys have? I have noticed I see about half and half in magazines, seems like cheaper brands like AutoMeter uses PSI, while Greddy and A'PEXi use Bar. Doesn't 14PSI equal 1bar? Do you guys prefer using a gauge that shows BAR or PSI? or does one do both?
12-11-02, 12:11 AM
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I don't think PSI or Bar have anything to do with the quality of the gauge. The ones made in the US will be in PSI and the ones made in Japan will be in bar. I personally prefer PSI just because that's what I'm used to, but I'm sure that I could get used to reading bar pretty fast. I'm getting the Defi gauge that is in PSI and appears to be really good quality.
12-11-02, 10:28 AM
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I don't think I care which my guage reads in, (stole this from Badog who probably stole the idea from the pros), I just rotate my boost guage so that my target boost is when the needle points straight up. Easy to watch for overboosting, ie the needle goes beyond vertical and you can catch that out of the corner of your eye...
K
K
12-11-02, 08:38 PM
#4
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally posted by nocab72
I don't think I care which my guage reads in, (stole this from Badog who probably stole the idea from the pros), I just rotate my boost guage so that my target boost is when the needle points straight up. Easy to watch for overboosting, ie the needle goes beyond vertical and you can catch that out of the corner of your eye...
K
I don't think I care which my guage reads in, (stole this from Badog who probably stole the idea from the pros), I just rotate my boost guage so that my target boost is when the needle points straight up. Easy to watch for overboosting, ie the needle goes beyond vertical and you can catch that out of the corner of your eye...
K
I got my Autometer POS turned so that the 20psi mark is vertical. You don't realy have time to read numbers and the like it is good to get to know the position of the needle for a quick reference, I find that works the best for me.
12-11-02, 09:15 PM
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Just get one that you like, and convert if necessary. Like others have pointed out, once you know where your max boost level is, the rest is just relative to that point, regardless of the measurement units. For example, 1/2 boost is 1/2 boost, regardless of PSI, Bar, KPa, inHg, etc.
http://www.onlineconversion.com/pressure.htm
Clocking the gauge works well for quick scanning. A user-defined overboost warning light or buzzer is also a great help, especially if your car does not have a POV.
http://www.onlineconversion.com/pressure.htm
Clocking the gauge works well for quick scanning. A user-defined overboost warning light or buzzer is also a great help, especially if your car does not have a POV.
12-11-02, 11:40 PM
#7
1 bar = 14.5 psi by the way.
Doesn't matter. I prefer PSI unless it's high boost (like over 30 psi) and then I prefer PSI.
Either is fine, it's just what's painted on the gauge, the gauge is still the same and works the same way as each other. Mounting them so full boost = straight up is excellent!
Doesn't matter. I prefer PSI unless it's high boost (like over 30 psi) and then I prefer PSI.
Either is fine, it's just what's painted on the gauge, the gauge is still the same and works the same way as each other. Mounting them so full boost = straight up is excellent!
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12-12-02, 01:01 AM
#8
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I chose one that reads in BAR because I have more faith in the japanese gauges than american ones. If you get a peak warning/hold gauge you can just have a light go off whenever you reach too high of boost and it has memory so you know your max boost since resetting it. Helps out alot I think.
12-16-02, 08:49 AM
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Originally posted by AJC13B
Get KPA just to keep everyone guessing!
"Honest, I am running 274kpa of boost!"
Get KPA just to keep everyone guessing!
"Honest, I am running 274kpa of boost!"
And I personally like the BAR gauges as opposed to the psi gauges.....Personally preference really.
mikey
12-17-02, 01:58 AM
#11
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Originally posted by 2kwik4u
Holy crap thats like almost 40psi!!!
And I personally like the BAR gauges as opposed to the psi gauges.....Personally preference really.
mikey
Holy crap thats like almost 40psi!!!
And I personally like the BAR gauges as opposed to the psi gauges.....Personally preference really.
mikey
Absolute is preferable to gauge pressure, as it makes for easy comparisons between vehicles running in different environments. On my data logger I average 230Kpa ABS between peak torque and peak power. My boost cut comes in @ 236Kpa absolute or around 1.5bar boost 21.75psi (depending on the day).
If you look at old school F1 cars they all have Absolute boost gauges, back in 1987 they ran a limit of 4bar, when you ran in Mexico for argument sake they could run allot more gauge "boost" pressure compared to sea level because of the lower ambient pressure. They still stayed with in the 4bar limit, cause it was an absolute pressure limit (gauge boost + atmospheric pressure)
12-17-02, 12:43 PM
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Originally posted by RICE RACING
AJC13B forgot to mention that was ABSOLUTE pressure, so you have to take of whatever the ambient pressure was on that day he dynoed. Usually averages from 94Kpa to 103Kpa, this also varies allot depending on the altitude you test at.
Absolute is preferable to gauge pressure, as it makes for easy comparisons between vehicles running in different environments. On my data logger I average 230Kpa ABS between peak torque and peak power. My boost cut comes in @ 236Kpa absolute or around 1.5bar boost 21.75psi (depending on the day).
If you look at old school F1 cars they all have Absolute boost gauges, back in 1987 they ran a limit of 4bar, when you ran in Mexico for argument sake they could run allot more gauge "boost" pressure compared to sea level because of the lower ambient pressure. They still stayed with in the 4bar limit, cause it was an absolute pressure limit (gauge boost + atmospheric pressure)
AJC13B forgot to mention that was ABSOLUTE pressure, so you have to take of whatever the ambient pressure was on that day he dynoed. Usually averages from 94Kpa to 103Kpa, this also varies allot depending on the altitude you test at.
Absolute is preferable to gauge pressure, as it makes for easy comparisons between vehicles running in different environments. On my data logger I average 230Kpa ABS between peak torque and peak power. My boost cut comes in @ 236Kpa absolute or around 1.5bar boost 21.75psi (depending on the day).
If you look at old school F1 cars they all have Absolute boost gauges, back in 1987 they ran a limit of 4bar, when you ran in Mexico for argument sake they could run allot more gauge "boost" pressure compared to sea level because of the lower ambient pressure. They still stayed with in the 4bar limit, cause it was an absolute pressure limit (gauge boost + atmospheric pressure)
12-17-02, 06:06 PM
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Originally posted by Ryde _Or_Die
I chose one that reads in BAR because I have more faith in the japanese gauges than american ones. If you get a peak warning/hold gauge you can just have a light go off whenever you reach too high of boost and it has memory so you know your max boost since resetting it. Helps out alot I think.
I chose one that reads in BAR because I have more faith in the japanese gauges than american ones. If you get a peak warning/hold gauge you can just have a light go off whenever you reach too high of boost and it has memory so you know your max boost since resetting it. Helps out alot I think.
Why do you think that. A boost gauge is nothing more than a standard psi guage that has been around for years apon years apon decades and decades. Its not like its some new technology that they are doing wrong. Its just a pressure gauge you can buy one at Walmart for $2 for your tire. Not very complex. To each thier own though
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