anyone know how to set timing on a rebuild motor ?
I don't know how to find tdc, let alone verify it.
That is the whole point of this thread is to find/verify timing!!!!!!
i have put 200 hours into this build over the last 21 months and done absolutely every single fricking thing on my own or with a friends assistance , this is my first car restoration and I'm not some super duper pro mechanic that knows what they hell you mean when you say "go set it to TDC" I would not be here asking HOW ITS DONE if i already knew. I'm sick of people telling me to do something I don't already know how to do and then not explaining how the f its done properly. I have made countless threads in every imaginable section of this forum and no one can get me going the right direction.
That is the whole point of this thread is to find/verify timing!!!!!!
i have put 200 hours into this build over the last 21 months and done absolutely every single fricking thing on my own or with a friends assistance , this is my first car restoration and I'm not some super duper pro mechanic that knows what they hell you mean when you say "go set it to TDC" I would not be here asking HOW ITS DONE if i already knew. I'm sick of people telling me to do something I don't already know how to do and then not explaining how the f its done properly. I have made countless threads in every imaginable section of this forum and no one can get me going the right direction.
Just had a quick read of some of your posts. Did you use super glue when you built the motor. I have had trouble starting some of my engines on the starter before. The fix get your mate to tow you. That will make it see good COMP, and with fresh fuel in the tank will start. Next get a cam degree wheel, measure the dia of your pully. place that dia on the digree wheel. Now you can pull a line from the out side of the wheel back to the dia of your pully and there are all the degrees you want.
Last edited by rotory26; Nov 24, 2011 at 07:11 PM. Reason: more info
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 5
From: Seattle, Washington
gslse tank, lines and Walbro 255
currently 3-4 gallons in the tank, I have been busy at work trying to get this game completed and shipped out. Over the season end break I will get back to trouble shooting this fuel pressure issue.
thanks everyone for your inputs! this project is getting there slowly but surely
thanks everyone for your inputs! this project is getting there slowly but surely
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 5
From: Seattle, Washington
Hi guys, so I have verified my MSD box, leading coil, plug wires, spark plugs are all in functioning order. At the moment I have the trailing coils disconnected, the tps disconnected and the I/C pipe disconnected. I am just trying to get the motor to idle. The entire ignition system is working and the timing is set close enough to start the engine.
Right now I have a issue with fuel. Today i started the engine for the first time in a few months, third attempt at cranking the engine fired up. It idle at 2,700rpm as shown in the video below. My pfc commander read 20% injector duty cycle and the wideband read 10.5 : 1. The last thing I had adjusted was the FPR, today with the key in the ACC position the FPR read 40psi, when the engine started the FPR read 60+psi and the motor had a weird sound to it, anyways I used a wrench to adjust the FPR to 43psi while the engine was running, this caused the idle to creep past 4k rpms.
Anyone know what the hell is going on with this thing ? I would appreciate tips or insight on adjusting the FPR or anything that you may think could help.
Thanks
Right now I have a issue with fuel. Today i started the engine for the first time in a few months, third attempt at cranking the engine fired up. It idle at 2,700rpm as shown in the video below. My pfc commander read 20% injector duty cycle and the wideband read 10.5 : 1. The last thing I had adjusted was the FPR, today with the key in the ACC position the FPR read 40psi, when the engine started the FPR read 60+psi and the motor had a weird sound to it, anyways I used a wrench to adjust the FPR to 43psi while the engine was running, this caused the idle to creep past 4k rpms.
Anyone know what the hell is going on with this thing ? I would appreciate tips or insight on adjusting the FPR or anything that you may think could help.
Thanks
Thread Starter
Joined: Jun 2005
Posts: 2,753
Likes: 5
From: Seattle, Washington
am I really the only person to ever have this issue with a turbo rotary engine ?
someone has to have some insight to what the hell is going on here, appreciate all you efforts in getting me heading in the right direction
someone has to have some insight to what the hell is going on here, appreciate all you efforts in getting me heading in the right direction
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 2,745
Likes: 0
From: North Bay, Ontario
Fuel pressure needs to be set as a static pressure, so with the engine OFF and key ON (and fuel pump ON), you set the fuel pressure. This is at no pressure, no vacuum. As the engine idles, it pulls vacuum, and therefore the fuel pressure in the rails will DROP correspondingly, just as when you boost the fuel pressure will RAISE in the rail (This is called maintaining delta pressure). Vaccuum works on your FPR just the same as boost, only in the opposite direction. Re-set your fuel pressure with the engine OFF, key ON, pump ON, and make sure it is hooked up to a vacuum source on your engine (Intake manifold). Then don't touch it again. lol
Do you have a good known base map for your PFC, or are you just messing around with it, or aren't sure? 10.5:1 idle is very rich, you should be at low 12's, even leaner if you are stock ported, however raising the fuel pressure to 40+psi under idle could likely have done that. Try re-setting your fuel pressure and idling it again. Also, if your idle is too high, but stable, since you have the TPS disconnected just back out your idle screw once the engine is warm to get a good stable idle.
Did you ever get a timing light to verify your timing at idle?
Do you have a good known base map for your PFC, or are you just messing around with it, or aren't sure? 10.5:1 idle is very rich, you should be at low 12's, even leaner if you are stock ported, however raising the fuel pressure to 40+psi under idle could likely have done that. Try re-setting your fuel pressure and idling it again. Also, if your idle is too high, but stable, since you have the TPS disconnected just back out your idle screw once the engine is warm to get a good stable idle.
Did you ever get a timing light to verify your timing at idle?
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