Anyone heard what a straight pipe sounds like?
I just picked up a 90 t2. Its a little crunched no big deal but I want to full race it. Deffinetly not street legal. I was thinkin about just having a muffler shop do a straight aluminum pipe from the down pipe<racingbeat> all the way back. I have an 86 na with a presilencer and headers with dual dragunfire cans. It sounds good but Im alittle worried that I wont be able to tolerate even starting the t2 with a straight pipe. I looked at the apex catbacks but it seems like a waste of $500. send me some input. I need a few more ideas.
Thanks
86 N/A
street port, full exhaust, other less exciting crap
90 t2
turbonetics guts in the hitachi housing, fuel defenser
lame *** full exhaust w/ flowmaster style mufflers, intake, HKS seq BOV
Thanks
86 N/A
street port, full exhaust, other less exciting crap
90 t2
turbonetics guts in the hitachi housing, fuel defenser
lame *** full exhaust w/ flowmaster style mufflers, intake, HKS seq BOV
My TII had the stock DP, gutted pre-cat, stock cat, no mufflers, and a $100 straight Y-pipe courtesy of the local generic muffler shop. It sounded like my stock 88 NA at idle, and was only slightly louder than my NA at WOT. In other words, totally street legal, even without mufflers. Yes, aftermarket mufflers would have definitely been a waste of money on my TII. However, yours would be louder if you have a larger DP and no cats. I suggest building it like you suggested, and just add a resonator or pre-cat if it ends up too loud for you.
FYI, the turbine soaks up a lot of noise, so what works for a turbocharged car will NOT necessarily work for an NA.
FYI, the turbine soaks up a lot of noise, so what works for a turbocharged car will NOT necessarily work for an NA.
Can you say "BOOST CREEP"?? 
Turbos will muffle it somewhat... now, an open RB race header (dual outlet) on a bridge port 13B is ear-splitting at full throttle... probably even louder than a nitro-burning boinger. I have a pretty high threshold of pain for noise (after all I do race an N/A with an open header
) but from 40 or so yards away it hurt even with my fingers plugging my ears.

Turbos will muffle it somewhat... now, an open RB race header (dual outlet) on a bridge port 13B is ear-splitting at full throttle... probably even louder than a nitro-burning boinger. I have a pretty high threshold of pain for noise (after all I do race an N/A with an open header
) but from 40 or so yards away it hurt even with my fingers plugging my ears.
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Originally posted by peejay
Can you say "BOOST CREEP"??
Turbos will muffle it somewhat... now, an open RB race header (dual outlet) on a bridge port 13B is ear-splitting at full throttle... probably even louder than a nitro-burning boinger. I have a pretty high threshold of pain for noise (after all I do race an N/A with an open header
) but from 40 or so yards away it hurt even with my fingers plugging my ears.
Can you say "BOOST CREEP"??

Turbos will muffle it somewhat... now, an open RB race header (dual outlet) on a bridge port 13B is ear-splitting at full throttle... probably even louder than a nitro-burning boinger. I have a pretty high threshold of pain for noise (after all I do race an N/A with an open header
) but from 40 or so yards away it hurt even with my fingers plugging my ears.
not really pop off valves are only used on highly modified cars to prevent over boosting and blowing **** up. And the boost controller won't help creep any either the only real way to prevent it is to port your wastegate hole to the very edge and sometimes that won't even do the trick.
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msilvia
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