And there is the point we were trying to make. After paying to have all the welds beefed up and then sending it off to be ceramic coated, you have alot of money in this "inexpensive" manifold. For the money spent, you could have just saved the trouble and bought the bad-***, expensive, proven manifold.

 

The SS autochrome FD header I have sitting here in front of me has S/S flanges as a magnet will not stick to them,any of them.That's not saying it's not a POS,and I'm debating on modifing it and using it on a FC.Is this a header off a different application or a 13B header from your observation? cheers

 

That's not really true. Some quality manifolds you speak of easily cost 500.00 plus. He could easily ceramic coat the cheap $165.00 manifold and pay someone to beef up the welds for an extra $250-$300. Thats $465.00 for a strong ceramic coated manifold that shouldn't have any fitment issues. You compare that to a "QUALITY" manifold that will easily cost 500.00 plus with NO ceramic coating. Add ceramic coating to your expensive proven manifold now your at 700.00 plus. Thats the point!

 

Any quality manifold will not need to be modified prior to use. That $500 manifold will not need to be coated to "hopefully cut down on stress cracking."

When you spend $500 on a manifold, you are getting thick stainless steel runners and flanges. The welds are clean and professional. It is designed with good flow characteristics and it requires NO modifications before you use the damn thing!

In the automotive world, you get what you pay for. Mod cheap - Mod twice.

It's been a while since I saw a guy run 8's on a XS Power turbo and SSAC manifold....

 

It will if you want that manifold to also cut down on under hood temps. Either way the modified cheaper manifold should hold up and still be cheaper.



Yep but that doen't mean that it's not possible either. Anyways I'm not talking about their turbos. Dude don't be so closed minded. Do you really expect anyone to use one of these cheap manifolds for an 8 sec car? If your on a budget, I absolutely see no problem modifying these manifolds to use on a street application.

 

http://www.rx3mist.com/selling.htm

350 for a custom mani.. coated and all. my buddy got 1.

 

But is it stainless? Usually the big $$$ manifolds are all stainless. Look like nice, thick flanges though.

 

it is stainless, a buddy got one. it just has a black heat coating on it.

he got the no wastegate one to put a s4 turbo on a 12a

 

flatlandin_man23:

i think your problem is to came posting "All you ebay haters" at this time on your project. Your post intentions are good, 'cause it might clear some doubts about the quality of those products, but just install it an run it at low boost for a while won't tell us how good could be... and is true that if you are happy,,,,that what's matter, but again, it might be to early to post "All you ebay haters" at this point...

I'm using the eBay kit... manifold, bov, wg, turbo etc and i bought almost everything from eBay to run my FD single(https://www.rx7club.com/single-turbo-rx-7s-23/fd-experiment-ebay-kit-ra-seals-finally-done-422328/) .... and it worked for me,,,, as I mentioned there, i had problems with the turbo thrust bearing, i replaced with a 360º (turbonetics tuff turbo option) and no problems so far ... I have been driving and racing (430-450 whp) i think 4 months from now with not any problems... though, i would be 100% satisfy if everything last at least 1 year....

keep going and keep us informed how turns out when you really push your car to the limit...hopefully you will be satisfied just like me...

 

what did you use to connect the ic piping to the tb?

 

You need to remember a car runs on vacume, so if your normaly at around 8 or 10 pounds of vac and now hes at 2 pounds of boost thats 10 to 12 pounds positve. I ran 5 pounds on my single turbod fd for a long time and it pulled hard. When i bosted in first it broke the tires lose. Also if you read the whole thread he said he was running a 3 pound spring, which they do make. Just my 2 cents. And I like running low boost to make my engine last longer.

 

^WTF are you talking about?

 

just thought id add my experience i bought one to try, i figured the worst that could happen is it fails so far has lasted perfectly fine for 6 months @16psi i realise this isnt definative proof that they are good just thought id add my experience

 

Ok, well it has been a month of boosting now for me. I am currently running 5psi daily. My car runs good and pulls insanely hard now. The only complaint i have is the power comes on pretty late, i still think its because of my exhaust, which i will be changing soon. I now have a MBC, and a walbro 255 fuel pump, next upgrades will be larger injectors and a wideband. Then i will most likely turn the boost up to around 8psi. On 5psi i ran a 15.1 @94 mph at the drags, with a horribly launch and i couldnt get 4th gear to go in. It is def. a mid to high 14 second car now on only 5psi. I will keep updating as i do more stuff and lay down some more times.

Oh by the way, i did a compression test recently, came up 90psi on all 3 faces of front and rear rotors.

 

 

Well.......when your going from an N/A car to a turbo, you do feel a differance. For instance, drive your car & drive fast, then go hop in an N/A & try to do the same & you'll know what I'm talking about.

 

what turbo

 

guy WTF are you talking about??? You are talking some stupid ****. Get your **** str8 before you start giving "advise" or stating a comment... Thats the **** that I hate about some forum members.... They dont know WTF they are talking about and then spread misinformation....

 

Martin, I think that he meant he had a vacumn betwen his ears or somethign to that affect

Kenn

 

what he means is that a n/a car has negative manifold pressure not postive. so any postive or neutral manifold pressure measured is quite a gain over a stock.

 

Well, best of luck to you. I'm in the camp that's sure you'll need every bit of luck you can get.

 

wrong... a turbo car, and n/a car pull the same vacuum. Thats what a motor does, it sucks air in... and at WOT MP is the atmospheric pressure at your location(depending on alt) that is why n/a cars need a 1bar and turbo's need atleast 2barmap and up.

 

Exactly

 

sorry... please explain the 1bar and 2 barmap..

 

holy hell...if you some of you obviously rich bastards would come down off your high horses for a bit, maybe you could actually offer some good advice other than just ripping this guy a new one. He's doing something, with his car, with what he can afford, and apparently so far it's working to his liking, so lay the hell off.

With this ebay stuff that's for sale...i've read just as much good, as I have bad. It seems to be really hit and miss. Maybe he's one of the lucky ones. Time will tell.