He took the downpipe off and checked. He said there is usually pieces of apex seal if it went out through the Turbo. He said the turbo is fine. I guess it will be more closely inspected once the thing is taken apart. The motor was not ported. It was a stock motor with low mileage. It was in fact a mazda reman.

 

well doing that ihor's turbo would appear fine too but you have to take off the exhaust housing on the turbo to make 100% sure....

 

No need to come here to Ohio, just pull a copy of your map with the datalogit and send it to me via email...

k

 

If you have a good map I wouldnt mind getting it from you and having Dave check it out. Maybe he will start to use your map if it works out to be safer as a base. I hate to jump to conclusions about why it blew up. Everytime someone starts to get pissed and makes assumptions it ends up making them look like an ***. I dont want to be that ***. I will know by tuesday what happened when its apart. I do appreciate the support guys.

 

My map is all jacked up with rpm re-scaled to 9000 and boost to 24psi (for use with 3bar map sensor and modified power curve of a large street port) . Not something that can be used as a typical base map...

I can however quickly look though any maps provided to check for what I consider unsafe settings...

K

 

i meant to retune also if necessary

 

you guys are making me nervous...guess it's time to get a datalogit. where can i get it? RP? damn..that means i gotta buy a laptop to? hmmmm...how long a drive is it from MA to Columbus, OH?

 

I may be moving to the DC area as early as mid-March, DC would be much closer to MA than Columbus, OH.

If you can be gentle to your car till then I'll have all the tools with me in DC to review & tweak your config.

K

 

nocab,
my car's been garaged since november and will probably stay there until end of march or so...DC isn't a bad drive, i think. anyway, i'm going to look around for an inexpensive laptop and will order a datalogit on monday...hopefully i can get my map and will email them to you soon...thanks!

by the way, have you dynoed the car yet with the pineapple? i'm looking into getting a spare engine and having it ready for install one this one goes

 

Vosko,

has ihor figured out what caused his motor to go? just curious if it was bad tuning, faulty injectors, etc. etc.

 

I saw the rotors from ihors motor. They were all dented and torn up on the rotor face's. Dave has them at the shop.

 

ihor detonated, my guess is it was a timing problem because his car also was tuned very rich. if your timing is off(or you have negative timing) you will detonate even with VERY rich AFR's. if anyone thinks i'm trying to bad mouth KDR i am not. i just don't want to see any more blown engines...... ihor blewup twice for no reason. there is no reason any should blowup with no reason besides tuning......

 

nocab

are you able to send me the map to get started with my gt35/40.

I'm most interested in 1600 cc change, and injector duty. and anything else that is critical.

Whats wrong with the timing that the pfc comes with??
Isn't it safe to 17 psi?

wouter

 

Ok the motor is apart and the problem is an Apex seal on the rear rotor. The rear rotor was very clean, too clean actually. It was run lean and thats what caused the seal to collapse. The injectors have all been sent off to RC engineering to be flow tested and checked out. It may be one of my primary stock injectors that stuck. Dave tested them at the shop and the spray pattern wasnt ideal. They are high mileage primaries. The secondaries are also being tested. The 1600cc sec are Chrysler diesel inj. They are the ones A-spec is using in thier kits and on thier cars with no problems. I think it will be a primary inj problem but will update as soon as we find out. Everything else in the fuel sys is new including the dampener, pump, regulator, sec rail, inj and filter. Also note this was Toys Map. Dave compared our dyno graphs looked almost identical. I dont think the problem is the map.

 

Mike,
those injectors are bosch injectors made for Chrysler... Bosch actually makes inj's for Ford too.
if you look on the side of the injector you will see the Bosch part # and other side the Chrysler part #

good luck!

 

That is good to hear!

K

PS what did your plugs look like? If it was infact lean, shouldnt they be nice and white?

 

Yeah i talked to Steve and he told me the low down on the injectors. They are for thier diesel trucks. They came in a chrysler box and looked a bit different than the other 1600cc inj on Daves shelf. The pins inside the inj are smaller but the flow should actually be better than other 1600cc inj due to the fact they can flow a thicker fuel such as diesel fuel. The problem I think are the stock primaries. Like i stated they are high mileage and I think one stuck but i sent all 4 out just to have everything flow tested. You guys at A-spec have been top notch. Great support.

 

I have a question since there is so much talk about maps. Where is the negative split everyone keeps referring to? Is it the same negative split spots that are present in the "all data init" maps of the PFC?

I'm also curious what nocab, vosko & others consider "safe" timing. Lets say 15psi 4000-8000 RPM and about 18psi 4000-8000 RPM. Don't have to give every single map cell, just a general idea.

Thanks,
Wade

 

wade some good info is here courtesy of dragon

http://www.nopistons.com/forums/inde...ST&f=3&t=11633

 

here be my .02
--------------------------
Large street port, my rule of thumb for max advance

16 degrees of advance at peak torque at 16psi
12 degress of advance at peak torque at 20psi

Interpolate to get the numbers in between or extrapolate to get numbers if you want to run higher boost.

I have found that it is safe to go beyond the above stated advance numbers beyond your peak torque RPM, this will help to flatten (keep it up and from not falling off as fast) your torque curve and boost your HP numbers in the power band.

I ran 8 degree's split on my stock motor for months, no problems, I'm running 12 now, on my Pineapple Large Street port just because it's a bit safer and I don't need the extra 20hp+ gain right now available from dropping the split.

K

 

If I were you I'd remove the turbine housing and inspect the entire turbine wheel and not just the face of it like you can see with the dp off. You cant tell anything like that. You have to remove the entire thing so you can see the shaft and turbine wheel, thats the only way to really know its ok.

STEPHEN

 

Wade,

Split is the difference in Leading versus Trailing. It can be caluclated, or if you have a Datalogit, easily viewable. You don't want the Trailing firing before the Leading.

Tony K.

 

ouch! my toes hurt now!

 

whiner...

K

 

if you spin the engine backwards that might work