Ok ordered a new motor, will be here monday. Will hear from RC engineering tomorrow about the injectors. Also decided to upgrade the clutch as per Vosko's advice. I am goin with the a sprung 6 puck kevlar/bronze or copper unit with the ACT pressure plate. Now with the new motor. For a basically street only application should I port it? If so how much? there are 3 stages of street port from KD. Matching the manifold is the SCCA max per thier rules, doesnt matter much cause I wont really be racing it in any real comp. Second is a mild street port, that retains idle and doesnt cause any havoc with electrical parasitic drag and of course the wild street port. If at all what would you reccomend for a daily driven street car (during the summer)? Anyone with experience with any of these ports?

 

I wasn't very clear. What I meant was, is the negative split that they are talking about (that they think blew Ihor's engine) the same CELLS that have negative split in the "all data init" PFC map? Or did he have negative split in the boost cells?

Also, thanks vosko and nocab for the timing info! Nocab, how much more advance do you allow for a stock (not ported) engine?

Thanks,
Wade

 

how much power are you looking to make ? if 400rwhp @ 15psi is enough. then leave the reman alone. that is how much Toy made with his bone stock engine. if you want more power then have it ported

 

A few degrees I think. I would have to go back and look at some of the stock block maps I experimented with back when I had one.

K

 

The latest. Well the News came back from RC engineering. The injectors were ok. I had them cleaned and checked out. Anyways Dave bought a new lamda(sp?) and is goin to retune with Toys map and my new motor. We also talked about rebuilding my old motor with new parts including the port and all upgrades. I havnt decided if I am goin to just throw the new Motor in or have him rebuild the old one and upgrade everything. I wont be porting the new motor but would port the old one if it was rebuilt. I still havnt decided to port or not. I need some help deciding. I want this thing to make good power. Thats why i spent so much bank. But I dont want to blow it everytime I turn around. My old motor has only 19k on the odo and it didnt come apart just dropped the apex seals and inbedded them into the rotors/scared the housing. He checked everything on the old motor and my turbo, everything else is great.

 

there is only reason a rotary should embed the apex seal into the rotor *detonation* . the key right now is figuring out what caused you to detonate. apex seals don't just fall out. don't you have to send your old engine back as the $1000 core charge ? personally i would leave the engine as is. ernie ran 10.7 with a bone stock reman. the advantage to leaving the stock reman alone is if in a year you have an engine problem it has a warranty thru mazda. if you crack open that engine you void the warranty. your old engine is gonna need atleast a rotor and rotor housing + full seal kit.... rebuilding isn't cheap!

 

he speaks the truth. find out your problem before anything.

 

Yeah Mazda just wants the junk parts back, not the entire motor. Dave took my old motor apart and the only problem is that rotor and housing. The benefit of using my old motor is its already all apart and has been checked out, can be ported and all upgrades done and reinstalled. The reman is sealed but Mazda wont warrenty it if they knew it had all these mods and a ported motor wont be covered by mazda even if we tried to slip it through the cracks, They would see the port. KD will warrenty thier work for the same amount of time so I am not concerned with that. I think I am goin to put the reman I just got from mazda in the car and call it a day. Dave will put a few upgrades from my old motor on this (like 20b front cover, upgraded gaskets etc. ) it should be up and running again next week.

 

umm, not to be mean but, i haven't seen an engine warrantied by dave yet. when they detonate he doesn't warranty it. i've never heard of putting on a 20B front cover ????? upgraded gaskets???

i think you misunderstood what i posted. about the mazda engine warranty. if you break the reman they will give you a new one no matter what as long as you didn't take it apart and port it yadda yadda. installing the fresh reman is your best bet. if it blows up again on the dyno and dave can't figure out why you should make him pay for the reman

 

apparently the 20b 3 rotor front cover gasket doesnt leak like stock 13b one does so he replaces them. Also the oil pan always leaks on the reman so he takes it off and reseals it his way so it wont leak in the future. And I decided to have him put the new Reman in the car.

 

Remans are good i made 513 with a stock motor.
Barry

 

good to see you back barry!
its been a while

 

Hey Barry, Thanks for the input. I decided a new motor is the best way to go. I talked to Vosko and he mentioned some relavent issues with a rebuild and I like the fact its a new motor VS a 3 year old rebuild. This isnt going to be a race car. Just a street car garage queen. What kind of setup did you have to run 513 hp? Was that rear wheel? You have the CYM FD that runs up at NEdragway?

 

i heard of barry, i think he tuned marvins 94 MBM with T78

 

barry owns BPR in salem MA
he also owns the sweet cym that ran a 10.73 at e-town on a stock mazda reman and a greedy T88 kit.

he's got a ported motor in the car now and should be much quicker this year

 

i know i saw ari drive his CYM at englishtown

 

Yup I'm trying to bring him back to the forum to share his wealthy knowledge. I see he's coming back slowly...

 

barry, do you ever go to NED? ive hurd talk of a cym with a T76 or T88 running low 11's a while go, was that you?

 

Yes i go to NED alot i had T88 e6k 850,1600 now i have the E11.
Vosko yes i did tune Marvin's car , he has a sweet motor.
yes it was rwhp.