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01-29-03, 06:01 PM
#76
Ok ordered a new motor, will be here monday. Will hear from RC engineering tomorrow about the injectors. Also decided to upgrade the clutch as per Vosko's advice. I am goin with the a sprung 6 puck kevlar/bronze or copper unit with the ACT pressure plate. Now with the new motor. For a basically street only application should I port it? If so how much? there are 3 stages of street port from KD. Matching the manifold is the SCCA max per thier rules, doesnt matter much cause I wont really be racing it in any real comp. Second is a mild street port, that retains idle and doesnt cause any havoc with electrical parasitic drag and of course the wild street port. If at all what would you reccomend for a daily driven street car (during the summer)? Anyone with experience with any of these ports?
01-31-03, 12:03 PM
#77
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Originally posted by Badog
Wade,
Split is the difference in Leading versus Trailing. It can be caluclated, or if you have a Datalogit, easily viewable. You don't want the Trailing firing before the Leading.
Tony K.
Wade,
Split is the difference in Leading versus Trailing. It can be caluclated, or if you have a Datalogit, easily viewable. You don't want the Trailing firing before the Leading.
Tony K.
Also, thanks vosko and nocab for the timing info! Nocab, how much more advance do you allow for a stock (not ported) engine?
Thanks,
Wade
01-31-03, 12:36 PM
#78
Just Call Me Terminator!
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how much power are you looking to make ? if 400rwhp @ 15psi is enough. then leave the reman alone. that is how much Toy made with his bone stock engine. if you want more power then have it ported
Last edited by vosko; 01-31-03 at 12:39 PM.
01-31-03, 01:24 PM
#79
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Originally posted by Wade
Also, thanks vosko and nocab for the timing info! Nocab, how much more advance do you allow for a stock (not ported) engine?
Thanks,
Wade
Also, thanks vosko and nocab for the timing info! Nocab, how much more advance do you allow for a stock (not ported) engine?
Thanks,
Wade
K
02-05-03, 05:14 PM
#80
The latest. Well the News came back from RC engineering. The injectors were ok. I had them cleaned and checked out. Anyways Dave bought a new lamda(sp?) and is goin to retune with Toys map and my new motor. We also talked about rebuilding my old motor with new parts including the port and all upgrades. I havnt decided if I am goin to just throw the new Motor in or have him rebuild the old one and upgrade everything. I wont be porting the new motor but would port the old one if it was rebuilt. I still havnt decided to port or not. I need some help deciding. I want this thing to make good power. Thats why i spent so much bank. But I dont want to blow it everytime I turn around. My old motor has only 19k on the odo and it didnt come apart just dropped the apex seals and inbedded them into the rotors/scared the housing. He checked everything on the old motor and my turbo, everything else is great.
Last edited by ZoomZoom; 02-05-03 at 05:16 PM.
02-05-03, 07:50 PM
#81
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there is only reason a rotary should embed the apex seal into the rotor *detonation* . the key right now is figuring out what caused you to detonate. apex seals don't just fall out. don't you have to send your old engine back as the $1000 core charge ? personally i would leave the engine as is. ernie ran 10.7 with a bone stock reman. the advantage to leaving the stock reman alone is if in a year you have an engine problem it has a warranty thru mazda. if you crack open that engine you void the warranty. your old engine is gonna need atleast a rotor and rotor housing + full seal kit.... rebuilding isn't cheap!
02-06-03, 05:19 PM
#83
Originally posted by vosko
there is only reason a rotary should embed the apex seal into the rotor *detonation* . the key right now is figuring out what caused you to detonate. apex seals don't just fall out. don't you have to send your old engine back as the $1000 core charge ? personally i would leave the engine as is. ernie ran 10.7 with a bone stock reman. the advantage to leaving the stock reman alone is if in a year you have an engine problem it has a warranty thru mazda. if you crack open that engine you void the warranty. your old engine is gonna need atleast a rotor and rotor housing + full seal kit.... rebuilding isn't cheap!
there is only reason a rotary should embed the apex seal into the rotor *detonation* . the key right now is figuring out what caused you to detonate. apex seals don't just fall out. don't you have to send your old engine back as the $1000 core charge ? personally i would leave the engine as is. ernie ran 10.7 with a bone stock reman. the advantage to leaving the stock reman alone is if in a year you have an engine problem it has a warranty thru mazda. if you crack open that engine you void the warranty. your old engine is gonna need atleast a rotor and rotor housing + full seal kit.... rebuilding isn't cheap!
02-07-03, 01:48 AM
#84
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Originally posted by ZoomZoom
Yeah Mazda just wants the junk parts back, not the entire motor. Dave took my old motor apart and the only problem is that rotor and housing. The benefit of using my old motor is its already all apart and has been checked out, can be ported and all upgrades done and reinstalled. The reman is sealed but Mazda wont warrenty it if they knew it had all these mods and a ported motor wont be covered by mazda even if we tried to slip it through the cracks, They would see the port. KD will warrenty thier work for the same amount of time so I am not concerned with that. I think I am goin to put the reman I just got from mazda in the car and call it a day. Dave will put a few upgrades from my old motor on this (like 20b front cover, upgraded gaskets etc. ) it should be up and running again next week.
Yeah Mazda just wants the junk parts back, not the entire motor. Dave took my old motor apart and the only problem is that rotor and housing. The benefit of using my old motor is its already all apart and has been checked out, can be ported and all upgrades done and reinstalled. The reman is sealed but Mazda wont warrenty it if they knew it had all these mods and a ported motor wont be covered by mazda even if we tried to slip it through the cracks, They would see the port. KD will warrenty thier work for the same amount of time so I am not concerned with that. I think I am goin to put the reman I just got from mazda in the car and call it a day. Dave will put a few upgrades from my old motor on this (like 20b front cover, upgraded gaskets etc. ) it should be up and running again next week.
i think you misunderstood what i posted. about the mazda engine warranty. if you break the reman they will give you a new one no matter what as long as you didn't take it apart and port it yadda yadda. installing the fresh reman is your best bet. if it blows up again on the dyno and dave can't figure out why you should make him pay for the reman
02-07-03, 06:47 PM
#85
apparently the 20b 3 rotor front cover gasket doesnt leak like stock 13b one does so he replaces them. Also the oil pan always leaks on the reman so he takes it off and reseals it his way so it wont leak in the future. And I decided to have him put the new Reman in the car.
02-08-03, 12:15 PM
#88
Originally posted by R1DREAD
Remans are good i made 513 with a stock motor.
Barry
Remans are good i made 513 with a stock motor.
Barry
02-09-03, 06:22 AM
#92
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Originally posted by SPEED_NYC
good to see you back barry!
its been a while
good to see you back barry!
its been a while
