Im in the process of putting my motor back together and I thought about oil mods. I made 425hp w/ no oil mods at all. I started looking into this for the soul purpose of reliability and if I should actually do it. I was looking into the pineapple racing mod which they mush down the rear housing regulator and stack of washer for the front. Is this really necessary? I dont want to over pressurize the system and have oil every where. What are your thoughts? Motor is being assembled right now and should be together by tomorrow. I need a quick response.

 

Snake oil.... Do what you want and believe who you will. There are tons of guys making 500+ rwhp without oil and coolant mods with there engines running for years without issue. Im not saying there isnt any advantages in race applications, just saying I think a lot of this stuff is for shops to make extra cash and make the customer feel good.

 

yea, most of the oil mods these companies try to push on people is bullshit. the only modification i might suggest is opening up the oiling jets for the rotors and offing the spring/ball mechanisms.

point of this is to pump more oil inside the rotor to keep it cool from the inside and cool the rotor face. you may have to up the oil pressure regulator spring rate some to compensate for this modification because it will drop your oil pressure.

overall i do NOT suggest raising oil pressure over the stock level, too much oil pressure in a turbo application just causes MORE issues.

 

Sounds good. I think I will just keep it simple and let her ride. I just thought about doing it last minute. This is my first build and there is a lot information out there that gets misunderstood. Ill stick with my mild streetport and stock oil pressure.

 

I do not let a single engine leave my hands without performing at least the 2 things you talked about.

Stack 2 1mm washers in the front, use an FD pressure regulator or crush the front or up the pressure by taking the regulator apart and stacking 2 1mm washers in it, do a bit of sculpting in the oil pump pickup and pressure area to eliminate sharp corners, this includes the hole where it feeds thorugh to the front cover. Light rtv between the oil pump body and its flange to limit air getting sucked through lightly warped flange when engine is extremely hot. Oil pressure saves bearings and keeps things running true just in case your right foot gets carried away. And that happens quite a bit for me.

You are looking for oil pressure around 60 at idle warm. The worst thing you can do to a street engine is remove the checkballs on the e-shaft as this causes a very low oil pressure at idle. Even worse during the summer.

I have not had an enginebuilt by me returned with any bearing failures after my mods.

 

what about the rear regulator? Do you crush that down?

 

i have not had an engine returned to me with bearing failures without doing any mods.

carb jets fit well into the standard jet to reduce the standard jet size opening to meter the oil flow down.

 

not if I use an FD rear regulator. People do crush the s4/s5 NA ones to increase the pressure.

As for the carb jets in the e-shaft. I have not done that mod for a car that will be street driven. For the track fine. And just to clarify I build engines to live at 10K+ which kind of goes above what most Turbo car owners are comfortable with since they get no benefit from spinning them up that high unless they are drag racing.

 

Sounds good. I actually went ahead and added 2 1mm washers to the front regulator. I went back to the stock FD rear regulator. The car will have a redline of 9.3k and will be track driven.

 

I know I'm coming in late here but when you're going above 8500 you should have balanced that rotating assembly boy!

 

grind the front iron to make the oil passage under the oil pump to be more flowing and less square shoulders.

it makes you oil pressures rise faster.

 

Got it!!!



I also did this. Right now my oil pressure sits right around 45psi idle and 80psi when revving it.

 

your FD regulators should be 100psi above 5000rpm, if it's less then this your regulators are screwed or your oil pump has some wear letting it slip past the gear rotors.

what oil are you using?

 

Dunno. I havent driven the car to test it while underload. That just sitting in the garage and revving it to about 5k.