fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

You should get the one that grants you an automatic +1 to searching abilities. Once you get that one than (most) all your answers will be clear...

REsuper7

iTrader: (4)

I only got one map from the tuner which he copied onto a USB key i gave him after the tuning session was over. It's possible he copied the wrong one.

Does anyone local to me (Central NJ) have a Dataloggit that i can use to extract the map on my PFC so i can do a direct comparison to the map i posted? If so, please PM me.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I guess Ill be posting my map up here....

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

Just go to the injector screen and see if the secondaries are set at 1500, then go to the PIM screen and see if it looks like this:

8000rpm 110.2
7000rpm 110.2
6000rpm 108.6
5000rpm 105.9
4000rpm 104.7
3000rpm 104.3
2000rpm 103.9
1000rpm 102.0

If those are the readings you find then you can bet the rest of the map is exactly the same as the one you posted.

REsuper7

iTrader: (4)

Good idea. I'll do that and post back up what i find. Thanks again

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

The motor was built at my shop several years ago. It has a stage 3 aggressive street port, and an rx-7 store 35r kit which the previous owner provided.

Most of the comments posted are spot on (Banzai, Fendamonkey, Mono4lamar, etc)

A/F is way too lean, especially without water injection. You are on the edge of popping the motor should one hickup occur. Injector settings are bogus. I see all sorts of arbitrary numbers in the map.

Power numbers are not terrible, but on the low side. I made 380 rwhp at your boost level with the same turbo 10 years ago. I pushed it to 476 rwhp with a more aggressive timing map and 22 psi. The cat is robbing you at least 20 hp.

A/R looks like a 1.06. Nothing wrong with that turbo if you want the response at the expense of some top end. To upgrade to the larger t4 hotside you would need a whole new manifold and dp. The only thing you can do to that turbo as is would be to install a billet wheel which is really intended for higher boost applications. I'd leave it as is.

That being said, I have a car in the shop with a very similar setup. Shooting to make over 500 rwhp out of it this weekend.

When it comes down to it, its your car and I want you to enjoy it. Let me know if there is anything I can do.

REsuper7

iTrader: (4)

Hey Ihor, I'll probably give your shop a call sometime this week, maybe tomorrow or Wednesday. Thanks for offering to help.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Yeah, it didn't click with me at first that he was running a cat, and that he was running a smaller hot side.

If the car is running great, you've got good idle, and good drive-ability, you've confirmed that the power you're making is rght where it should be (considering your mods) than what are you so concerned for? 11.7 isn't the end of the world for AFRs, and keep in mind that you're not going to see lots of down low power because of the porting you've got. Bigger ports sacrifice low-midrange power for peak numbers at the top of the rpm range.

The guy that tuned your car regularly tracks his own car and beats the living **** out of it w/o blowing **** up or destroying motors.

Personally I would be less concerned with what the internet says, and more concerned with what you're seeing for your own eyes. I believed internet hype and got burned HARD several times by "reputable" shops/tuners on this forum, as a result I'm not going to sugar coat anything for any shop (if they're legit in my experience than I'll say so, if they're not than I'm not afraid to say it). Since then I've realized that this forum has turned into a "pay-to-play" type site where the information you might receive is less about being correct, and more about who's willing to pay/support the site.

All I'm really trying to say is trust what your eyes and your *** are telling you, and I wouldn't waste your time/money on another tune unless you change out components.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

I got my car tuned right after Alex, I waited with him and his son for most of the day. I made 302 at 13-14psi with a to4r. In the moring I had drivabilty issues while cold, and smoked alot on decel, inless then 24hrs, I cracked my front plate. I was told that happens on the older plates... So now, I see this thread and am wondering about what really happend.. I have a haltech and retrieved my map from the car. I dont know how to load it up here it says invalid file, but if someone can help me out and take a look at my map and post it up for other to see. Id be really greatful. Im hoping it was just a coincidence and the plate just broke but from what Iv rear it doesnt happen at that low of hp so often, maybe Im just unlucky?
thanks,
James

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i can see where fendamonkey is coming from but the problem is that sometimes the advice given isn't aimed at vendors trying to make a buck off someone but simply trying to save their engine, yours could likely be the reason why we all have our own **** tendencies.

try to put up the map and it could point towards the root problem which was a bad tune from the start. many issues have already been pointed out with this person's tuning practice, while he may get lucky some of the time but eventually someone has to pay for it.

saving a few minutes making a map doesn't make a tuner, real tunes take upwards of 3 hours from scratch. if the tuner has rough maps for the setup then the average time is 1.5 hours actually making adjustments(there are some exceptions, i once had a microtech dialed in with 3 highway pulls in less than 15 minutes and it ran perfect for about 80k miles until the whole engine/turbo/EMS went into another car and was sold).

i charge by the hour for tuning($120/hr including setup and break down), almost all other tuners tune by a flat rate per job. this is also a bad practice because it gives them the benefit of throwing a **** map together and calling it good. my rates are also deemed to be rather cheap but it gives the owner the benefit that i'm not going to screw them over for a hastily thrown together tune and gives me the incentive to do a better job.

i have had 2 engines fail already this year(1 being a 20B early block that also broke a front iron as yours did, the other had 3 broken seals out of the 6 as well as a broken corner seal, ie detonation), tuned by other tuners. in the past 10 years i have lost less engines than i can count on 1 hand on the dyno when i did the build and tune. (1 i admit i built too aggressively for pump gas)

but keep in mind as i said in the other thread, sometimes the issues do lie in the car and not the tune or engine. fuel starvation can kill an engine quicker than a bad tune will. i had 1 customer that just left and his AFRs were going aggressively lean under high boost after his 500 mile trip home, pointing to the cosmo pump failing and the aeromotive pump seems to have cured the problem. parts do fail and you have to keep an eye on things.

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

How old was your engine, and who did the previous build?

Sucks to hear about your motor man, ESPECIALLY this close to spring I've been through three in the past two years, so I feel your pain.

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

88 tii motor 2k miles built by me no issues prior.
it was at the shop for a month, was trying to have it ready.. got it back the first day of spring blew the second.. anyone wana see my map?

JWteknix

iTrader: (2)

everthing in the car is brand new, no fuel issues, had atleast half a tank and broke on a strait away. didnt notice my a/fs lean out. soo idk... how can I send you my map, he originally started with a C.ludwig base map. he was having issues with staging my ID1000 and 2000 injectors, he couldnt stop the secondaries from dumping fuel when they came on. he eventually let the primaries run to 6psi of boost, before turning the secondaries on to smooth out the staging, is that ok? he also added 2degrees of timing to it and netted no extra power gain then removed the extra 2?
lmk
James

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

new generally doesn't mean anything to me. the cosmo pump i mentioned was nearly new and i also had a denso supra TT pump only last 2k miles before it started going downhill fast.

sending you a PM.

REsuper7

iTrader: (4)

Here are the settings from my PFC from the PIM and Injector Screens:





So it looks like the PIM settings are .1 lower than what Banzai-Racing said. I'm not quite sure what to make of that though. However, the injectors are exactly what Banzai-Racing said they would be, so i'm assuming the map i posted is the same one on my PFC.

REsuper7

iTrader: (4)

Here's JWTeknix's map file

fendamonky

iTrader: (6)

Aye, I just picked up an 044 that's only meant to have a couple hundred miles on it. You can bet your sweet booty that I'm gunna flow test it at various fuel pressures before I trust that pump to run boost. It's just too easy for something (even if it's authentic) to be broken fresh from the box.

RotaryEvolution

iTrader: (30)

i looked over it rather quick but nothing stood out for me with the exception of not having an overboost cut set and the crank trigger settings(not sure what trigger he actually has on the car, if it's the CAS then it is incorrect and not sure how he actually got it to work). if the engine overshot boost to 17-18+ psi then i have noticed even premium pump will spit out irons left and right on FC engines regardless of tuning.

the maps do lean out slightly in the upper REV range, some engines/setups require this, others do not so that may also be a problem area. it is totally dependent on the pump and regulator flow rates so i'm not saying it is a problem or not. the rest of the maps could use some smoothing out but they aren't all that bad.

the lack of zero throttle maps would explain the overfuelling on decel.

if he is in fact using a crank trigger wheel i would have a close look at the way it is timed. FC hubs aren't the best for "bolt on and go" trigger timing, even the timing pulley can be incorrect versus the actual TDC of the engine if it has been swapped before. but knock would be evident if he was using any reliable knock sensing device before the engine actually let go(tuner).

if it is a high compression engine, 9.4:CR or above then i limit boost to 12psi, 15psi being engine breaking territory for the 9.4:1 CR rotors on premium pump gas, food for thought since i didn't pay close attention to the build thread. the renesis for example usually grenades at 10psi and even below on FI.

if anyone else feels like critiquing it feel free.

REsuper7

iTrader: (4)

You're right, i wasn't concerned with my tune initially, but rather i was simply asking the question, "is 352whp @14psi low or normal for an FD with a GT35R?" Based on this thread's discussion, it appears the answer is "yes, it's normal" considering i have a hi-flow cat and a T3 hotside. Like i stated in my initial post, i'm perfectly happy with 352whp for now and have no plans to get a midpipe and/or turn up the boost.

Also, to bring a little closure to this thread on my part, i got in touch with the tuner, and without getting into details here, i'm happy with the tune and will probably not be getting a retune at this point. Like i mentioned before, the car runs super smooth since the tune and idles rock solid and now that i know the amount of power the car makes with the mods that i have is normal, i'm happy.

thanks again to everyone who took the time to provide feedback and look over my PFC map.

Good luck JWTeknix with getting your car fixed up and back on the road.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

You shouldn't be tuning by the PIM volt settings. Its a quick way to add fuel but in my opionion not the way to tune the car. Thats what someone may do if they were trying to tune with just the commander to save the trouble of going through the injector map and changing each cell manually.

I have only seen a handful of front plates crack. One that comes to mind was a drag car running two step and a ton of nitrous. The second was a street car I built. Ported motor, 35r, under 400 rwhp. Cracked from the customer bouncing off the rev limiter while doing a prolonged burnout.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Let me know. Be happy to help. always hate seeing people damage their car or spend money and not be happy with the results.

Banzai-Racing

iTrader: (11)

A lot of owners have no clue what a good running single turbo FD actually runs like. I have countless cars come into my shop with 1200-1500 rpm idles that run like absolute crap, the owner however thinks it is running good. This is because the previous owner or shop told them "it is a modified car, it is going to run this way, that is the sacrifice you have to make". This of course is completely incorrect, they are always amazed when I give them back their cars idling at 750-800rpm, making 400-500 reliable hp and stock like drive-ability.

To the OP, your tune is junk. You asked if your power is low, it is. We have customers with twins and high flow cats making more power on a Mustang dyno (which read lower). I can only guess that with the huge increase in mediocre/bad tuners that the numbers you posted seem acceptable to some people.

Just because some un-named tuner "beats the ****" out of his car does not mean that he has not gone through endless engines, it also does not mean that he put the attention into your car that it needed,this is obvious from the map. Additionally I am not here to "hype" anyone, you posted your map I gave you my professional opinion.

I wish you the best of luck with your engine if you decided to push the car with the current tune.

IRPerformance

iTrader: (41)

Very well said.

REsuper7

iTrader: (4)

I've only ever driven(owned) two FD's, and one was stock twins converted non-sequential, so i can't say i know exactly what a good running single turbo FD runs like. The only car i can compare my current FD with to gauge whether or not it's running smoothly is my 2003 Toyota Camry. I would say that my FD idles and revs just as smoothly as my Camry does, if not smoother. My car currently idles between 850-900 rpm.


Unfortunately, i'm not educated enough in the art(or science) of tuning, so i can't really comment on the map myself. And since i'm not anywhere near you guys, i can't exactly bring my car to you for a 2nd opinion. With that said, i can either trust my local tuner or doubt him based on comments i've received here. Since my last conversation with tuner, i've chosen to trust him for multiple reasons including experience, reputation, and customer service. The reason i posted my map is because people were asking me about the timing, and since i didn't know how to respond, i figured people could look at the map themselves. I didn't post the map because i thought my tune was crap and wanted people to review it, although i'm glad people would go out of there way to review and provide feedback on my map.

Thanks. And again, i do appreciate everyone taking the time to look at this thread and respond with feedback/recommendations. Hopefully, a year from now, i can post back to this thread stating that my car is still running strong...i guess we'll see.

RENESISFD

iTrader: (13)

You should really get that map fixed. You should not be driving around like that. Obviously the person who "tuned" the car using the RPM enrichment had no clue how to properly do it, I would not trust that tune at all.

@Banzai +1 I see so many FD's as well that are just cobbled together hunks of junk that can barely run; it scares me.