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Dyno'd the 13B-PP tonight

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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 01:18 AM
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BC Dyno'd the 13B-PP tonight

So I got to dyno my car tonight. Its the first time since I built the 13B-PP the first time. Since the first time I dyno'd at 167rwhp I have replaced the stock '85 GSL 12A exhaust with dual 2" and have rejetted the weber and now has a 12.4 afm at WOT. It made 210rwhp and 150 ftlbs of torque. I still have to weld the weights in the distributor and add some msd 6a boxes then I'll hit the dyno again.


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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 11:41 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
i like the torque!

not sure what port timings your running, but if its MFR (or close) i think the tq should peak a little later

what venturi's are in the carb? exhaust collected?

i dont think welding the weights is going to do much, but i think it'll like the msd's
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Old Aug 15, 2008 | 12:35 PM
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Great torque curve! What length are you intake and exhaust runners if you're making peak power around 8500?
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Old Aug 16, 2008 | 11:34 AM
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Congrats on your dyno. You still have alot more potential gains- I am getting 197 hp to wheels on my 12abp. Like j9fd3s said, why are you going to weld the weights? That's really not needed on a N/A motor. When you weld the weights all you are doing is keeping a constant timing curve from idle to wide open throttle and if you plan on driving on the street like I know you do, you do not want to weld your weights. When your racing at full throttle your weights will be all the way out and have max timing so why weld them? Unless you are turbo or nitrous there is no reason to weld the weights. Your're not going to gain any more horsepower. Also, you would get some more power if you went from your header to one 3" pipe instead of the two pipes and the fewer the mufflers the better.
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Old Aug 17, 2008 | 12:34 PM
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Finally starting to make the power you should be making
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 09:40 AM
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Check your spark coils.
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 10:40 AM
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Once you get rid of that dual exhaust and get a good collected exhaust on it you'll start to see the power numbers that you should be hitting. That curve looks great for a street engine and probably very smooth but it's not even close to what potential you have yet to unlock.
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 11:28 AM
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Originally Posted by ultimatejay
Congrats on your dyno. You still have alot more potential gains- I am getting 197 hp to wheels on my 12abp. Like j9fd3s said, why are you going to weld the weights? That's really not needed on a N/A motor. When you weld the weights all you are doing is keeping a constant timing curve from idle to wide open throttle and if you plan on driving on the street like I know you do, you do not want to weld your weights. When your racing at full throttle your weights will be all the way out and have max timing so why weld them? Unless you are turbo or nitrous there is no reason to weld the weights. Your're not going to gain any more horsepower. Also, you would get some more power if you went from your header to one 3" pipe instead of the two pipes and the fewer the mufflers the better.
i just saw that the tq curve was flat, timing must be pretty close to optimal
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 11:10 PM
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Well I went out friday night to see what the new power would give me for a 1/4 mile but I ran into a small problem. I bent the lower passenger side rear link on launch. So I left the car at the track with my wife and ran back to my shop and pulled the lower link from my new SE. I went back to the track and installed it into the race car and on my second pass another problem reared its head. The upper links pulled out of the body and let the pinon and driveshaft twist up into the transmission tunnel. With this said I'm out of the race season this year and need to do some work over the winter.
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 11:33 PM
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Originally Posted by blown7
Well I went out friday night to see what the new power would give me for a 1/4 mile but I ran into a small problem. I bent the lower passenger side rear link on launch. So I left the car at the track with my wife and ran back to my shop and pulled the lower link from my new SE. I went back to the track and installed it into the race car and on my second pass another problem reared its head. The upper links pulled out of the body and let the pinon and driveshaft twist up into the transmission tunnel. With this said I'm out of the race season this year and need to do some work over the winter.
Damn, sorry to hear that. Unfortunately that's what happens quite often in drag racing. Just when you start making the power, then drivetrain starts breaking. It's a never ending wallet busting battle. ****, what rpm's were you launching at and were you using slicks?
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Old Aug 18, 2008 | 11:38 PM
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4500 to 5000rpms and i was running BFG drag radials at 12psi. both times i had 1.9 60's and that was all it went to.
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