(FUEL) How To: Install Carter Fuel Pump & Holley FPR

 
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Old 04-13-06, 04:11 PM
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(FUEL) How To: Install Carter Fuel Pump & Holley FPR

I wasn't able to find an installation guide for either of these items, so I thought I would show how I did it. If anybody has better ideas or methods, please chime in.

First off, the Carter Fuel Pump. I purchased mine from Summit, here is the link to the model/pricing: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I started off by removing the cover over the stock fuel pump. When you pull this down, the pump will come with it. Snip the wires close to the pump, and remove the hoses, then the entire assembley will be free. I also chose to remove the check & cut valve while I was at it, but you might elect to keep yours (I didn't want to risk any flow restrictions).

The hardest part of this installation (and that of the Holley FPR) was deciding where and how to mount the new unit. I chose a location on the frame rail, close to the gas inlet pipe (pic 1). I simply drilled a hole and used the supplied self threading bolt to secure the unit. I only used one bolt due to space restrictions, but the bracket doesn't have the room to move around anyway, so I should be ok. Peejay stated that he bent the lower portion of the bracket to allow him to use a second bolt going into the underside of the frame rail, which sounds like an excellent idea to me. I would have done this to, if he had posted that info before I installed mine.

The new pump will come with rubber standoffs that go between the pump and the bracket, so be sure to use them.

Your old pump's wiring will have two wires. The wire with the white stripe is your power (+) and the plain black can be used for the ground. The instructions that came with the pump suggested running the ground to the bracket, but I chose to use the original wire to be sure I had a good ground.

Use 5/16 fuel line to replace all of the original hose in this area at this time. Once the pump is bolted onto the frame rail, just connect the new hoses and the wiring.

Here are the pics. FPR installation will come in my next post.
Attached Thumbnails (FUEL) How To: Install Carter Fuel Pump & Holley FPR-cimg3249.jpg   (FUEL) How To: Install Carter Fuel Pump & Holley FPR-cimg3250.jpg   (FUEL) How To: Install Carter Fuel Pump & Holley FPR-cimg3251.jpg  
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Old 04-13-06, 04:20 PM
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Nice install. How do you like it?
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Old 04-13-06, 04:24 PM
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Okay, now for the FPR.

Here is the link to the unit I purchased (again, from Summit): http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

As I said before, the hardest part of this installation was figuring out where/how to mount it.

The first pic will show the parts needed for the install. The new unit will not come with the adapters needed to connect your fuel lines, so you will need to pick them up somewhere. I went to Napa. They did not have a direct fit for me, but gave me a couple of reducers that would take it down to the size I needed.

I took the mounting bracket from my check & cut valve, and slightly modified it so that I could use that to mount the FPR.

Once that was done, it was just a matter of hooking up the fuel lines (new). Here are the pics.
Attached Thumbnails (FUEL) How To: Install Carter Fuel Pump & Holley FPR-cimg3242.jpg   (FUEL) How To: Install Carter Fuel Pump & Holley FPR-cimg3244.jpg   (FUEL) How To: Install Carter Fuel Pump & Holley FPR-cimg3246.jpg   (FUEL) How To: Install Carter Fuel Pump & Holley FPR-cimg3247.jpg  
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Old 04-13-06, 04:29 PM
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Feel free to add to this if you see a problem, or have a better solution for any part of it. I'm hoping that this will be a thread that people can pull up for all of their needed information when getting ready to perform this type of installation.

Also, total cost for the adapters for the FPR was about $10.00 Cost for the entire upgrade (pump and FPR) was under $100.00

So far, I love it. The car is definitely stronger now. The pump can be heard buzzing when the car is running and not moving, but its not annoying or anything. Some people have complained about the noise level of these pumps, but I believe it is due to how/where they chose to mount it. Mounting it directly to the frame rail is probably better than using the underside of the bin or spare tire hole. If you mount it to sheet metal, then the metal will vibrate like a speaker and be very loud.
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Old 04-13-06, 04:40 PM
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Just a day late! I did both of these installs just last night. I like your idea for mounting the regulator, mine is just hanging on the hose, held up by the wiring harness right now. Also it was driving me mad last night trying to figure out which wire was positive and which was negative, I eventually got it though.

I'd like to add that you can use 3/8" fuel line on everything and it will work just fine. Makes the regulator fitting situation easier. Just be sure to get some good hose clamps (like the ones pictured, they're great even if they did cost me a buck a piece) and clamp them down hard.

Oh and I would recommend using liquid silicone thread sealer instead of the tape. I think its just easier and probably seals better. Plus you dont want to get a chunk of tape in your carbureator.
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Old 04-13-06, 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by Kentetsu
Your old pump's wiring will have two wires. The wire with the white stripe is your power (+) and the plain black can be used for the ground. The instructions that came with the pump suggested running the ground to the bracket, but I chose to use the original wire to be sure I had a good ground.
The "best" ground is always short as possible and conncects directly to a clean spot on the chassis.

A good upgrade is to run a new + from the battery and use the old wires to trigger a relay.
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Old 04-13-06, 07:25 PM
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Good point Revhed. Maybe I'll do it both ways, just to be sure. I just didn't want to have to scrape off all of my undercoating to get a good contact...
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Old 04-13-06, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by inuissus_cendi

Oh and I would recommend using liquid silicone thread sealer instead of the tape. I think its just easier and probably seals better. Plus you dont want to get a chunk of tape in your carbureator.

Totally agreed on no tape. There is a product that is even better than silicone for this particular application, but can't remember the name. It's like a teflon paste. That's for the FPR of course. The fittings for the carter pump are dry. One just gets to torque them like there is no tomorrow.
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Old 04-13-06, 08:08 PM
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Kentetsu, nice setup. But with the FPR in that positiion, where do you plug the guage?

Good choice of oil filter. K&N baby!

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Old 04-13-06, 08:23 PM
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I don't have a gauge yet, so I guess I'll have to figure that out when I get one. Right now she runs like a raped ape, so its not very high on my list...
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Old 04-13-06, 08:53 PM
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The teflon paste works great, much better than the tape.

I am concerned about the offset distance for the fpr. It may sit out far enough to be subject to vibration and cause a fatigue failure in the bracket over time. I like to mount them on the firewall pinch weld, but you need to remove a bit out of the way to mount it.

If Kgray sees this, maybe he can post a pic of how I mounted his.
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Old 04-13-06, 09:18 PM
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Yeah, finding a place to mount it was a real pain. That pinch weld is right in the way. I don't think I'll have any vibration issues though, the fuel lines are short enough to provide some damping effect. However, I am certainly open to suggestions on better mounting methods/locations. This was just what I came up with off the top of my head. If anybody has some suggestions, or better yet, some pictures, then get them in here by all means!
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Old 04-13-06, 09:54 PM
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Here is my old setup.
http://albums.photo.epson.com/j/View...884&p=74050880
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Old 04-14-06, 01:07 AM
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Trochoid did this for me but here are some pics. there is an inline filter attached between the regulator and the carb (blue thing)











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Old 04-14-06, 09:27 AM
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this is where i mounted my fpr, just to the left of the hood catch - holley seems to be the standard here, doesn't it
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Old 04-14-06, 09:49 AM
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Definitely some nice ideas on locations. Kgray, until I saw your installation, I did not know that the fuel pressure gauge would connect straight to the FPR. I had assumed that it would be some type of inline gauge, but that setup looks pretty slick.

Thanks for the input guys. Keep the info coming so we can make this the "one stop shopping" place when it comes to this upgrade.
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Old 04-14-06, 10:10 AM
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Or Aeromotive
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Old 04-14-06, 01:21 PM
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I like your install of the carter. That is exactly where i put mine in my install. I also removed that valve since i didn't find any other place to mount the pump and the valve was in the way! Definately an interesting way to mount the FPR though, i would just get a 90 degree fitting and put the gauge into that if i had done it that way, but i didn't even think of it. Mine is just attached by a screw now, and a ziptie for safety incase it lets go. I'll get to that some other day though.... otherwise, nice setup!
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Old 04-15-06, 02:57 AM
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I wonder if Bwaits would be up to creating some custom brackets for these two items. You pretty much need both of these if you do any sort of modding on your car, and mounting brackets should be pretty easy to produce....

A mounting bracket specifically made for this purpose (fuel pump or FPR) would have cut my installation time by at least 75%, no kidding.
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Old 04-15-06, 03:13 PM
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I'm pretty sure this should be archived. I'll be needing to do this soon. LOL

Darren
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Old 04-15-06, 05:47 PM
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Mounting the fpg on the fpr is the only way to go. Besides Kgrays, I have bolted the fpr though the firewall above the pinch weld. Being ****, I removed the vent panel and drilled holes so I could use bolts instead of the self-tapping screws.

Hood clearence needs to be concidered when mounting above the pinch weld.
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Old 04-16-06, 02:32 AM
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when you guys mounted your fuel pumps on the frame rail at the rear, did you just use 2 self tapping bolts with some rubber for insulation ?

Are self tappers enough to hold these pumps ?
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Old 04-16-06, 06:11 AM
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Yeah. I just drilled a hole and used the self-tapper. Seems pretty heavy duty. The pump comes with rubber isolators for use between the pump and the bracket, then I also used some rubber sheeting between the bracket and the frame rail.
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Old 04-16-06, 07:32 AM
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Is this mod recommended on a stock carb? is the stock fuel pump weak? should the fuel filter be moved to just before the carb? thanks Kentetsu for this post!
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Old 04-16-06, 08:31 AM
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The stock fuel pump is just barely adequate for a car with no modifications. If you install a free flowing exhaust, modified carb, etc. then you will be pushing the limits of what the stock pump can handle.

The fuel filter should be located so that it filters the fuel before it enters the pump. Some of the guys are showing fuel filters that were added near the carb, but this is not a replacement for the stock filter.
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