well first off, this is exactly fitting for this thread, i see how youve related it, but for advice, you would get better responses if you started your own thread. but since im a nice guy, ill give it a shot i think you should get all of your timing issues sorted out, and then if your still missing up top, i would consider more fuel pressure, it sounds to me like your emptying your bowls...i dont think you would have a problem with the carter not giving you enough volume...if you have any questions, PM me if you want. and if i cant answer our questions, ill try and point you in the right direction!

 

I was re-reading the posts from the past that sterling has put in here and it does sound like it is still fuel starved, think I will check that too. Thanks for the help.
I don't know if I will get to it tonite, need to recover from a stressful weekend! lol But definitely this week and I will have an answer for you all, wish I had listened to begin with, I am a hardheaded pennsylvania dutchie and have to learn things the hard way!
Here is another question, wanna make sure I have it right. I have the fuel going to the holley regulator directly from the pump with the check valve removed and then into the input side of the carb, have the return plugged and use it for the gauge, any down side to this?

 

Well I am gonna have a relay hooked up to the carter pump. I am gonna have a manual toggle switch to trigger the relay. The source for the trigger will come from somewhere that only provides power with the ignition switch on. My question is this, should I mount the relay really close to the fuel pump and run the heavy gauge power cable all the way to the back or mount the relay in the engine compartment and run the power cable from the relay to pump all the way back? Any prefrences with you guys?

 

You've been sleeping in class!

 

Your description of the plumbing makes it sound like you have the lines backwards. If, by "check valve" you mean the little silver bullet that is in the fuel line, then that line is the return line not the feed...

 

I got my pump bracket completely isolated from the body now, and it's finally a little quieter. I used four 1/2" thick rubber bushings on both sides of the bracket, with fender washers. I also used some "Storm guard" sound deadening. Then I filled in all the gaps in the general area with wall insulation. It got even quieter. Mainly the floor of the storage bin, and the channels running behind the seats. It's finally bearable at idle with doors closed, lol. I can tune it out though, and the car will soon have a mild system, so it may disappear altogether.

I've been running 4 pounds of pressure for the last 2 days, with no ill effects? No flooding at all? According to everything I've read on the web anywhere, my car must be in the minority. I took it up to 60 mph with a lot of pedal, which is the fastest it's gone in ten years. I am getting this car back on the road, after that amount of time. Almost there!

It chirped second gear, woohoo! Stock everything but plug wires and fuel pump

 

I finnaly went back and re read all the posts. I was wondering how many fuel filters you run and where they are placed...

 

Oh I just have one more question just to be completely sure. When I install the Holley FPR I have to flip the check valve on the return line? All this does is block the return line, correct?

 

I left my return line intact, including the restrictor. Works fine.

 

blk82GSL - When I first installed my fuel pump, I did not even have a regulator to use at the time. Everything worked fine, maybe not "optimally", but fine. This is due to the restrictor on the return line, which sort of functions as a regulator. For proper tuning though, you will want a good fpr set to the proper pressure. Removing the return line (or the restrictor) is entirely optional though.

 

Well, I also have two filters. One before the pump, and one after the fpr and before the carb. The second may knock the pressure down half a pound. But seriously it runs great so far. The Holley FPR is a good one, I'd hope??? I also see no reason to remove the return line. I need to pass visual anyway.

 

I read that the Holley and Carter FPRs are the same unit and both are recommended.

 

Here is an update of my progress with the Sterling carb. I finally have it working well! wow! It took all the little things that everyone here suggests. I started with getting the fuel system with all the mods, carter pump, holley regulator and found an issue with pressure caused by a slightly kinked rubber line at the pump. I wanted to get the direct fire ignition system timed like we were told, added the marked pulley, fixed my screw up with the trailing/leading igniters and set the timing at 24 Leading and 14 Trailing. No rats nest, air pump gone and intake closed off. WIth advice from Carl, I tried removing the secondary air bleeds and the sucker took off, good thing there were no cops around, because I took off down the road like never before! It was a bit of effort, but I can't wait until next years hillclimb season, gonna be much better! Limited slip or a locked rear is next! Again guys, all the archives and a few questions here really helped, thanks to everyone!

 

Mine is still going great, despite constant warnings, hehe. After a sound deadening session
it's doable noisewise. Now if I could only get my damn power windows to stop going up crooked, I would be very happy indeed, lol. I also have built my own muffler, believe it or not. Got sick of "Pay the $300 or it will blow up in 6 months" thing, hehehe. Complete 16gauge steel construction, single 2.5 inlet, 3 inch deep chamber, and another chamber with two 2 inch perf. tubes passing through SS wool. I'm in it for about $120 or so, including a 2 inch holesaw, and three drill bits, and bending at a local steel fab shop. Where the inlet hits the back of the first chamber, I doubled the 16 gauge to help prevent burnouts. It should sound pretty cool, I have my fingers crossed. I will get some sound clips if it sounds good. I can build more if it goes well, hehe.

My wife has a pair of vice grips on the project right now. She has no clue how close it actually is to being roadworthy. Getting closer every day!!

 

Very good to hear man! What was the purpose of removing the secondary air bleeds though?

 

Okay guys! I've got my Holley FPR installed, and I've got my Carter sitting in a box. My problem is the lack of a location for the Carter. In the same spot (at least I think it's the same spot) that most of you guys have your Carters mounted, I have my Holley Blue mounted.

Now, most of you guys would instantly think "just pull out the Holley and put in the Carter", but I'm not willing to do that. I'm putting in this Carter to replace my dual Facets, and I like having multiple pumps for redundancy. I like to know that if one of them fails on the way to work/school, I can flip a switch and have my other pump flip on. My Facet(s) is/are slowly dying on me, and I'd really like to get the Carter in before they go out completely.

My Facets are now located where the stock pump was; however, the Carter cannot be mounted right there due to road clearance. So, do you guys know of any other suitable locations for my Carter? Do you guys think that there is enough room near the rear suspension to fit both my Holley Blue and my Carter?

Thanks for any input.

BTW, I mounted my Holley FPR on the driver's side fender well right behind the wheel well. Right by the clutch fluid resevior but on the fender's side; not the firewall side.

 

What in God's name are you trying to feed anyway? Unless you have a V8 with a turbo and a supercharger both, you are trying to overkill your overkill! Redundancy is nice, sometimes, but there comes a point where even I have to say "come on now".... If you are determined to run all of those pumps on the same car, you're going to have to split the line and run them in parellel rather than in series. I don't believe that pumps like the carter can be run in series.

 

I thought the FPR was supposed to be within 12 inches of the carb, or at least as close as possible? I also say pick a pump and go with it. You only need one good one?

 

I think removing the air bleeds was to supply more air into the carb which I guess is telling Carl that the jets are too big and running too rich as received it. I don't know what size jets he supplied with the carb, and I am waiting for his response to my email. This is what he told me that he expected because he said he would rather supply the carb too rich rather than too lean so that I don't burn my engine up, makes sense to me. So, I removed them and instantly the car was drivable and noticeably faster! Guess we can let sterling or Carl ring in on this one? lol All I can say is that I think I am gonna really enjoy driving it now! Now to find out what breaks first after this mod! lol I am sure I will wear something out, going up the hillclimbs is a bit tough on cars, but can't wait until next season now!

 

Exactly, I wanted to lean the top end a bit to see if thats where we need to improve your car. Sorry for being such a slacker lately. I'll get with you via email and get you those new jets.


BTW- Great thread guys! Ken, thats where the pump on the racecar is mounted, and yes adding dedicated power wiring improved the pump performance. (FYI- The ground is actually on the right headlight motor mount bolt, at least on the 84-85 cars I havent a clue as to why) Of course with no insulation its still loud lol. On the streetcar I mounted it on the upward slope of the body, aft of the stock location. NEVER mount these pumps horizontally. BTDT.

 

I think you guys are mistaken.... I don't have both pumps running at the same time.

I have one that will run normally, but in the event of a failure, I have a back up already wired up ready to go.

For example, I used to run strictly on my Facets during normal driving, but when they started to fail, I flipped the switch, which turned off the Facets and turned on the Holley. The Carter is going in place of the Facets, and will be used most of the time. I have two seperate fuel lines run. One to the Holley and one going to the Facets.

 

Kentetsu,

Before I let all the smoke out of my wires, I wanted to ask you one more question about hooking up the relay to the fuel pump. The relay came with no instructions other than a picture (which I don't understand). Can you identify which connector goes where? Please see the last picture and tell me where #'s 87, 85, 86, and 30 connect. (And please tell me if I bought the wrong stuff.)

Here's what I bought:


Here's the relay:



And here's a drawing:


Thanks a million!!!

DD

 

Here is a wiring diagram for a typical relay

http://www.ado13.com/techs/relay.htm

 

MtotheIKEo,

That is awesome!!! I didn't even know there was a "typical" setup, and that all the numbers actually mean something in some universal electrical universe.

Thanks!!!!!

DD

 

I see I got here too late Thanks for picking up my slack MtotheIKEo. I don't know why they don't make the indicators for the tabs a little easier to understand, rather than using a number system that makes no sense to us laymen.