My fuel pressure kept jumping all over the place for the first couple of weeks. I just kept adjusting it to the proper setting, and after a while it seemed to settle down a bit. I don't think I'm having the issue any more, but I guess I should check on it.

 

ill check it every once in a while i guess. i just got home from driving to college for my placement test. when i pulled in my yard i had 1/8 of a tank left. so you know what i did? dropped a full can of sea foam in it

 

Good call man! Nice to know I'm not talking to the way when I advise the use of Seafoam! Could you feel any improvement afterward?

 

ive stood behind sea foam for a while now. i prefer direct injection over adding it to teh fuel. ive added it to many of my friends cars; MS protege, BMW 3 series, etc. they all were shocked at the results and now they too stand behind sea foam. i only got to drive it about 5 or so miles before i had to fill her up. i had less gas than i thought i noticed a little, but not as much as desired. thats why i have another can and ill do direct injection soon

 

just an update on the relay mod.

i have mine wired up as displayed above. im using the stock power wire. i could be wrong but i think my pump actually got louded. i know for a fact it pulses with blinkers, hazards, brake pedal compression, etc.

i think its pointless to do this mod unless you make the power wire bigger. i dont know if thatd fix my surging, but it could. will i do it? no. why? cause i want the pump to still run only when im trying to crank it. i want the ability to sit with my car is acc and listen to the radio without flooding my engine or having to pull a fuse. i dont know if ill leave it as is, or return it to the stock wiring.

 

When I did mine, I ran 10 gauge wire for the feed and a relay to control it. The operation of the pump stays the same, since it is still "triggered" by the stock wiring and controls. Know what I mean?

 

I have the carter and holley fpr setup at 3 psi and it quits on me. It has happened a couple of times, all cruising at 35-40mph, warm 70-80's, and humid. I will be driving along and the car sputters and dies. I have replaced the fuel filter and it looked clean inside, but when it goes out, i can hear the pump ticking, fuel filters do not fill, and guage reads 0 psi. After 10-20 minutes i can go back and it will start right up. I do not have a relay wired up, and i was thinking that the pump may be overheating. Any ideas or tests you can think of?

 

i have 10 gauge wire for the ground, ran straight to a constant power source, but i hav ethe stock(16?) gauge for the switched power wire. id like to use 10g for this as well, but how would i hook that up? just run a 10g wire with a spade on the end to where the stock fuel pump wire connects? i dont see that solving the problem since the rest of the wiring is still the stock size. i could be wrong though.

 

ok i just did the upgrade. i got the bigger higher flow rate carter.
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

comparing the picture to wat is on my car, it is much larger. finding a spot to if it was hard even with teh cut/check valve out. i ended up just using zip ties at 4 different points. i still want to bolt it down tho. i changed all my lines to 3/8 and my regulator is currently sitting all the way by my master cyl. i am using the stock power wire to the pump and i dunno if its cuz its sip tied but the carter is freakin quiet. compared to the the stock bee buzzing in my ear, the carter is a soft hmm in the distance. as for the power flucuating, maybe its cuz im running an s5 alternator but everythign seems to be good on my end except for fuel pump location.

EDIT: BTW i didnt see this in the archives or am i just blind

 

Only the main power feed to the pump needs to be heavy gauge. The "switched" power wire (what would be the original power feed to the pump) is smaller gauge, but now all it has to do is trip the relay so that's okay if you leave it small (no heavy current on that wire anyway now).

woodonastick- Yeah, the reason that your pump is so quiet is probably because of the "loose" mounting. I'm going to design a mounting bracked made out of spring steel that will bolt to the frame rail. The pump will then mount to the spring steel bracket, which should allow the pump to vibrate all it wants without transmitting the noise to the frame of the car. Should be much quieter, and will maybe help the pump live longer since I won't be trying to fight the vibration by mounting is solidly to the frame...

 

I'm having some trouble with my fuel pressure after installing a new pump and fpr.

I've got a 1-4 psi carter pump, 1-4 psi holley reg, Ive got stock nikki carb. I have a fpr connected to one of the outlet ports on the fpr (its a liquid filled guage, speco brand). I am also running a relay for the pump.

The problem I'm having is my fuel pressure is very low, according to the guage when I start my car pressure is at around 3 psi, by the time my car has warmed up I have nearly 0 psi fuel pressure, I've tried adjusting the fpr but it doesn't do anything.

I was previously running the fuel pressure guage on the line going to the carb, I was getting the same kind of reading with it in that spot. so...

I'm thinking its one of these things:

-kinked line somewhere
-fuel pump hooked up backwards (I haven't tested to see, is it possible for it to run in reverse?)
-faulty pressure guage

is there any other possible cause for this to happen? The car still runs to, I can drive around but it doesn't feel very good. Another thing is that when my fuel is almost empty the car seems to run like it should.

I also have a carter 6 psi pump would it be better to run a bigger pump and adjust the pressure down?

one other thing, when we were installing the pump for some reason the fuel filter has ended up above the fuel tank level, should the filter be in its stock position (below the fuel tank)? since the pump is gravity fed could this be causing any problems?

what are the advantages of blocking the return line? wouldn't this cause vapour lock inside the carb?

Lots of questions

Cheers!

(This thread should be in your archive)

 

Cheap gauges aren't worth a crap. They are notoriously inaccurate. Best gauge at the best price will be found at www.re-speed.com They did the research, and found the best unit. I have one, and will attest to the fact that it is a quality and highly accurate gauge.

Holley fpr sometimes have burrs in the casting that will cause random pressures. You may have to disassemble it and clean it up with some fine sand paper.

Stock Nikki car only requires something like 2 - 2.5 psi (if I remember correctly), so your pump should be fine. If the car runs at all, then the pump is not wired backwards, so don't worry about that.

For now, I would suggest that you clean up the fpr and then set your pressure by the seat of your pants. Throw that gauge you've got in the trash, it's doing you no good right now. When you can afford the respeed gauge (50 bucks?) then grab one. Good luck man.

Oh yeah, and thank you very much for utilizing the search function! Much appreciated....

 

My pump was putting out 2.5 pounds, and the car wouldn't stay running. Now running around 4 if not a bit more. No flooding or any such issues. Carter universal pump and Holley FPR with a stock nikki. Two filters. One at the tank, and one up front.,,,,,Blk

 

+infinity on the ReSpeed FPG

 

ok cool guess I'll have to get a new guage and I'll pull the fpr apart( is it very difficult?)

I live in australia so not sure how long it would take to get one of those guages shipped over, or if they can do that. The guage I got was quite expensive too ($AU40) probably because its got liquid stuff in it.

I've set the fpr so it should be running at roughly 3-4 psi (wound it in quite a bit) and seems to be running alot better since put in the relay. It says in the haynes manual and my mazda factory manual that the fuel pressure should be between 3.7 and 4.7 psi, but I've heard lots of different views on that one, supposedly the stock pump can only produce 4psi max anyway

Thanks for your help!

 

Shoot a private message to Bwaits. He can tell you if they can ship the gauge to you, how long it will take to get it, etc. Really great people to work with..... You know its a good sign when people from a company like that actually hang out on the forum, listening to what people want/need.

 

I know, I know, Holy Old Thread Batman!! I've been following this thread trying to commit most of the technical stuff to memory, and Christmas has brought me a new Holley fpr and Carter pump. I remember a couple people looking for pics of the wiring and I took a few while I was putting the relay together yesterday. I'm not quite finished though. The regulator is mounted, but not hooked up, and the pump won't be going on until I get my hands on a jack, but that's hardly why I'm posting now.

The first pic is of the relay itself, wired up. Also of note in the first pic is that big mess of yellow electrical tape. This was also an attempt to leave the stock wiring as intact as I could. I did not have the appropriate connectors so I used the stock one and attached a short piece of wire in between it and the relay, along with a couple connectors I DID have. All the black wire I used is 8 Ga, as that is what I had at hand, and I wasn't about to shell out another 15 bucks for a spool of 10ga.

The second shows how I left the ground wires intact in the connector, mostly to cut down on time and keep it simple. The pump was working before so the ground must be fine, however I will be adding the second ground from the pump straight to the chassis.

The third pic just shows that I left the stock wiring intact.

Fourth is of the connection at the fusible links for direct battery power.

Lastly the spot that I (and I'm sure mostly everyone else) used to put the wire into the cabin. This spot will put the wire right above the dead pedal, then run it under the kick panel, and under the side sill to the original pump wiring. The black crap is just window putty to keep the thing sealed up.

 

Here are some shots of my FPR mounted. The first shot is a top angle, and circled in red shows a clearance issue I have with the inlet. I may just add an elbow before the fitting if it turns out to be a problem. The second is a shot from the passenger side. Circled is another issue, but this time it's Holley's fault. The screw heads for the included mount are too thick, and do not allow the regulator to sit flush on the mount. I've tightened the two bottom screws for the FPR so it shouldn't be a problem. It's showing no movement when I grab and wiggle it. Has anyone else run into this? Also a good shot of the mount I had to make for the mount, so the right side outlet would clear the hood latch. The third shows the outlets narrow path between the hood latch and my RB torque brace.

 

just did my upgrade i have to get a fitting to put the gage in but it seems to be runing fine not sure if it is at enough for the OER i will be putting on but i will go to the store and get some more fittings tonight here are some pics

 

glad i got my gauge it said i was only running at 1.5 psi but it seemed to run fine i guess the stock nikki really dosen't put out a lot of fuel. but here are some pics of the fpr with the gauge, stupid me forgot to check if the hood would shut so i had to turn the gauge to face the airbox