Ok, as you know, wolf will work with a dual pulse setup as you've most likely read the threads and seen a ground down CAS. There has been no real answer as how to configure it to use the stock CAS.

I'll be talking about s4/s5 since i dont remember tooth count of an s6 offhand. I think there are 12 teeth on it but it only makes one revolution so you should be able to use the same settings if this is correct.

Now, the stock cas has 24 teeth on the reference trigger, and 2 teeth on the sync trigger. The thing is, it takes 2 revolutions to turn the CAS 1.

Now, this can only be done through a laptop. And it has to be hooked up to the ecu to make all the options available.

First, you need to set the engine/ignition setup in the configuration to type 29. I'd do this on the hand controller since I don't know if doing it with the PC software will fill in all the values right. This is 2 rotor, inj2sec, ign2multi2seq 2 rotor 2+1 trigger poitns per shaft revolution, 2 seperate injector outputs, multi ignition coils.

Now, since this uses dual pulse with a ghost pulse, those with the ground down CAS can leave it at that.

But, since this isn't about that, you'd now need to fire up your laptop, and hook it up to a running wolf. Under Configuration -> Engine -> Trigger Sequencing you want to change Trigger Mode from Dual Pulse to Reference+Sync. Make sure the CAS is wired properly. the Reference pickup is the one with 24 teeth, the Sync has 2 teeth. If this is on an FD, 12 and 1 respectively.

Now, half the battle is over, but 3 options will appear if this is connected to an ecu. I'm not sure if youll have to disconnect and reconnect the software or not, or how it comes up, but I read they will not be available unless the Wolf is connected.

You will want Ref/Sync Mode to be 0. This is Multi Tooth reference. 1 is for Subaru crank/cam sensor.

You will want Trigger Ref/Sync Offset to be 4. This tells it that tooth 1 is right after the Sync tooth (4 skipped teeth).

You will want Trigger Ref/Sync Skip to be 5. This tells how many reference teeth to skip until the next ghost pulse (when rotor 2 is at TDC). It will skip 5 teeth between ghost teeth, so you get 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 1 2 3 4 5 6 .... so forth so on. I go back to one again even tho there are 24 teeth on the s4 reference, because it gets a Sync trigger right there. If it was an s6, it would get a sync because it would have completed a full revolution.

any questions?

 

i just confirmed these options become available as soon as you go online with the ecu/laptop.

 

I just changed mine to that, and when I went online using my laptop I got way more than 3 more options. There was at least 5 new options, probably more. They were all setup to 0 by default so I left all of them at 0 except the ref/sync skip I changed to 5. I havent tried starting my car yet cuz of the damn starter decided to retire at the worst time.

 

If all goes well ill be firing my car today and am using this setup, ill come back tonight and say if it went or not

-Jacob

 

Correct setup is Ref/Sync, 0, 4, 5...

 

so are we agreed the correct setup is:
ref/sync, 0, 4 , 5?

kevin.

 

I hate to dig up an old post, but since someone was asking about this, I considered it approriate, and the information I'm posting now will help everyone.

Well I thought about this a lot since I couldnt figure out why. That is until now.

The short answer: Yes this is correct with the CAS in the stock position.
............................: However, If you move the CAS, the offset will vary.

The FSM says to stab the CAS when the leading marker on the pulley is matched up to the timing mark on the engine.

the engine is basically at TDC here ... 5 degrees off.

the CAS is supposed to be stabbed with the 2 dots lining up.

when those 2 dots are lined up, the SYNC tooth is right in front of the pickup.

So, now we know how the CAS is installed.

Now, wolf wants to see the REF pulse that follows the SYNC pulse at 60BTDC(this is how just about everyone should have "Trigger1 Degrees BTDC" set).. The first ghost pulse to start the RPM event has to come AFTER the SYNC pulse.

Now you may be asking yourself how the hell is that going to happen if the SYNC tooth is currently lined up with the pickup and the engine is at 5ATDC. This is where the answer presents itself...

When the pulley is at TDC, I'm pretty sure thats the back rotor. This means the front rotor is 180 degrees BTDC.

Now, lets say we adjust this slightly. We set the pulley so its at exact TDC. We turn the CAS ever so slightly so that the REF tooth that FOLLOWS the SYNC tooth is perfectly lined up with the pickup. Now if we already had the timing set with the motor before we put the wolf in, we don't have to change anything. Just confirm/possibly slightly adjust it after its all running.

Now, since we want the first pulse to be at 60 BTDC of the front rotor, and the front rotor is 180 degrees away from being at TDC, the offset is 120 degrees at this point. However, wolf doesn't know degrees here, it only wants to know TEETH.

12 teeth pass the pickup per revolution. 360 / 12 = 30. 120 / 30 = 4

This comes out to 4 teeth.

Now if you stabbed the cas differently, so that the first REF pulse after the SYNC pulse was 60 degrees BTDC on the front rotor, offset would be 0. If it was 90 BTDC, offset would be 1. 120BTDC would be 2, 150BTDC would be 3. Stock is 180 degrees, so its 4.

As per the wolf manual, the highest wolf will take for this setting is 5.

Any questions?

 

hmmm, so in the case of FDs, since the hall are fixed, with a trigger of 60.1degs, the offset then should be 5.....right?
so set up is ref/sync 0 5 5

 

I'm not sure with the FD.

I'd have to see a good picture of the front of the motor with the sync tooth above the pickup with the timing mark in place.

with the FD tho, theres only one right value that will work properly unless you start playing with your trigger degs.

you may have to adjust your trigger degrees slightly to zero the timing however.

 

nyt, I've edited your first post to suit as asked of me.

 

thanks

 

ahh laptop... I was looking at handcontroller and I did not see aything that would make a difference. I guess I'll use my shitty pos laptop to change settings tommorrow. again, thanx nyt

 

sorry to bump up such an old post but i had a question as im finally getting around to this part of my adventure with my car (been soo long)

can I stab the CAS according to the stock way (line up the dots, stab) and use this setup and everything will work fine? I sorta gotta lost due to nyt's second explanation lol.

oh and as for CAS wiring, i have an s5 turbo 2, do i go with trigger option 1? (red and green to pin 27, white to pin 28, white/blk to pin 6) and what is Pin 30 For, i dont see it in any diagram? (Input trigger +5V)

kevin.

 

Great info NYT , I never saw this post before

Thanks a ton

Va

 

well i could get to re write what up for te series 6 onwards...... i will connect my laptop to my sweetheart and pull the info out....

I'll get to it once i am back in malta jeremy!

 

Pin 30 is for people who are using a Hall senor which is a optical pickup that needs +5V, not needed with the CAS on RX-7s