What a realistic weight figure for fully prepped FC?

Thanks
Russ

 

elaborate on fully prepeded. I'd say that 3-4 hundred pounds is the most reduction I have seen.

 

88integrars's weight like 2400lbs
i think he daily drive his too

 

I've tossed out a good couple hundred pounds in the last 4 or 5 years. In fact I was out there today eyeballing the A/C main relay and the power steering relay, and all of it's wiring, since these systems have "disappeared" over the years. Tossed a good 10 pounds worth of wiring & brackets in the engine bay during the rebuild. The little things add up

I won't go crazy and rip up carpet & such, though, like some guys...

 

I plan to drop the door panels gut the door and then just get a sheet of aluminum over it. Plus my race seats will fit better I think

 

yea i dropped an easy 200 with out anything missing, well at least it looks like nothings missing, no sound deadening, aftermarket seats and so is very easy, and as sub9lulu said above, search for 88integraLS he posted something about his list, though i don't recommend the removal of the bumper support

 

The tar in on the frame is useless, I think that's ~30 pounds.

That mat under your rear carpet is useless, assuming you replace it with Dynamat or something. Otherwise it might be pretty loud. Not sure what it weighs, but it's something.

Depending on whether you like A/C or not, you can drop that whole system. ~50?

As for the power steering, I prefer it. But that's me.

Lightweight seats ~10 pounds

Heater core, not sure but depending on where you live might be useless.

Lightweight rims. Considering you might have 25lb rims on there, which btw are rotating masses, dropping to the vert rim or something would help a lot.



That's the most realistic things I can think of. You can go more with other ways, but you said realistic...

 

Interior gutted, orignial door skin, but gutted, lightwight hood, CF or FG fenders and quarters, lexan for glass.

Basically, engine and shell, looking at preparing for B-Prepared SCCA autox.

I might even consider removing the whole roof and front window structures(adding roll cage to stiffen chassis).

Thanks
Russ

 

How much does the driver weigh? :-) A lot of weight can be lost there, depending on where you're starting from.

-=Russ=-

 

If your going to start removing reinforcement for the doors and roof you better put in a full roll cage to replace the structure your removing. Even if you already know this its worth repeating. There are people out there that think it is okay to remove reinforcement from their cars with out replacing it somehow.

 

Can you make approximately 2300-2400lb?

Thanks

Russ

 

Taking all the stuff out of the car that you just don't need will really add up. I took out the carpet, plastic trim, broken stero and speakers, sound padding, AC, and all that added up quick. I still have to take out the headliner, tar, power steering, doro panels, and a bunch of wiring.

Does anyone know if you can take off the soft part of the whole dash like you can at the stero surround?

 

what do you's mean by the tar where is it at does anyone know how much the padding stuff under the rear carpet weighs and how loud will it make it if i took it out

 

Teh tar in on the metal of the interior underneath the carpet. I took out the carpet and sound padding but still have the tar and the noise could easily be covered up by a radio. Without tar it would sound like a rally race car on teh inside.

 

I hope it isn't the same stuff they use on BMWs. I removed almost 30lbs of it out of my E30M3. Tar is actually sound proofing material. It is thick and dense. I had to use a heat gun and dry ice to remove it from the passager compartment.

It does make a signficant difference in noise level. You can forget about trying to hear a radio without it. Then again, if you are going to that extent to reduce weight, the radio would have been long gone.

Russ

 

so is it better to just take out the extra padding under the carpet and leave the tar in for the noise does the padding make a big difference when removed in sound level while we are on the subject ive been interested in the rear window how much does it weigh ive been thinking of replacing it with a light weight lexan window off of corksport but been wanting others opinions on it here is the ad they say about it its $515
Cork Sport Lexan Rear Window

Replacement rear window. Lightweight Lexan construction makes it a great weight reduction piece. Generally used on race-car/off-road applications. Requires the use of new latches to hold down.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...ight+reduction

realistic enuf ?

 

Yep..

Thanks!!
Russ

 

is this a TII or an NA? an NA will run in F Prepared I believe.

 

TII which would be BP. A NA would not stand a chance in FP against the ***'s BMW.

Russ

 

doesn't anyone have anything to say about the rear lexan window i need some advise on it i want to buy it but i want opinions first

 

lexan doesn't usually won't work well for street cars. Lexan scratches and scores very easily and its expensive to replace. Although I have heard of people experimenting with different transparent coatings to try and protect it, it still is not as durable as glass in that department.

 

We'll see about that. His car is about to get a lot heavier.
You can make the BP min. weight pretty easily, as long as you don't kid yourself into thinking you're still going to have a decent street car.
FP requires a little more work, but I think I'll make it... 1900lbs.
Lexan: I probably wouldn't do it for a street car. IIRC the rear glass (minus the metal frame) weighs about 27lbs.
Call up your local plastics distributor and ask them about 1/8" polycarbonate... you'll be shocked how cheap it is. Anyone that pays $500 for a Lexan back window is a tool.
(my appologies to anyone that has already made this purchase)
I got a little over 20lbs of tar out of the car. There is also A LOT of weight in the wiring harness. I pulled out the whole thing and threw it away. I'll rewire the car myself when the time comes.