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Running the temp sensor in the coolant hose going to the throttle body is typically within a degree or two of what I see on the PowerFC. Once the coolant goes through that line it's emptying into the back of the water pump housing right by the ECU water temp sender.
Also the factory temp sender is under the oil filter at the back of the motor, and this is also pulling from the back of the motor, which is the hottest point.
Regardless, that's a good place to pull readings from.
Running the temp sensor in the coolant hose going to the throttle body is typically within a degree or two of what I see on the PowerFC. Once the coolant goes through that line it's emptying into the back of the water pump housing right by the ECU water temp sender.
Also the factory temp sender is under the oil filter at the back of the motor, and this is also pulling from the back of the motor, which is the hottest point.
Regardless, that's a good place to pull readings from.
Dale
Ah, I think I might be talking about the low coolant sensor then on the front. Thanks for the info.
Well new wire came in yesterday and boost gauge still did not work . Sent them an email and I now have to send the gauge in...so much for the quality check. They must have just put it in that status and not actually checked the gauge
Great looking RX-7.
It doesn't look like it has anywhere near 102k miles.
Very clean and straight.
Congrats on an awesome find.
Enjoy this beautiful, and special car!
Great looking RX-7.
It doesn't look like it has anywhere near 102k miles.
Very clean and straight.
Congrats on an awesome find.
Enjoy this beautiful, and special car!
Thanks, and yes very clean for the miles. He kept in the garage which really helped. Have it in my garage now but the wife is trying to put it outside . Told her at least wait until I get a car cover
On another note downpipe should be here tomorrow. Now need to send it out to get coated and order the gaskets. The top downpipe gasket is crazy high now compared to the research I have done on older post and links.
nice , i bought my FD 3 years ago bone stock auto with 27k miles , 1st thing i did was 5 speed conversion, R1 spoiler and lip , efini power coated wheels . Only engine mods i done is the Y pipe , JDM down pipe , RP SMIC and PFC cat back. I can’t add any more mods boost is hitting 14 PSI and 11 AFR with stock cat in WA cold weather during summer it stay at 12PSI @ 10 AFR , So i’m thinking on putting the stock muffler back on. The biggest gain that i felt in power was the RP SMIC .
nice , i bought my FD 3 years ago bone stock auto with 27k miles , 1st thing i did was 5 speed conversion, R1 spoiler and lip , efini power coated wheels . Only engine mods i done is the Y pipe , JDM down pipe , RP SMIC and PFC cat back. I can’t add any more mods boost is hitting 14 PSI and 11 AFR with stock cat in WA cold weather during summer it stay at 12PSI @ 10 AFR , So i’m thinking on putting the stock muffler back on. The biggest gain that i felt in power was the RP SMIC
Cool I wanted to get a cheaper auto and convert but saw the pricing and rather just buy a factory manual. Plus I could never find one with that low of miles in the price I was willing to pay. You car looks CLEAN!
Cool I wanted to get a cheaper auto and convert but saw the pricing and rather just buy a factory manual. Plus I could never find one with that low of miles in the price I was willing to pay. You car looks CLEAN!
thanks , i bought mine in a dealer 😱
but they did a 5 star customer treatment , I’m in the Army i was stationed in korea with orders to WA . I called the dealer and reserve the car with a small fee , on my way to WA , they pick me at the airport took me to the dealer ship for paperwork and off course my Army gear didn’t fit in the FD so they have someone drive another car with my gear to Fort lewis. here is dealer pic . I didn’t say anything to my wife till she came here from FL lol . she was cool with it
So repaired Speed Hut boost gauge came in Friday. Installed and took a drive. Well getting 11-12 PSI on the boost and the boost goes up quick. So I can only imagine taking out the pre-cat and adding the down pipe. Will look to get a boost controller to keep the boost down to 10PSI.
Installed the fuel pressure sending unit and I am getting about 40-45 psi. Pressure rises as power is added. I also did a no load boost test in neutral and not getting any boost. Will look into this and the high boost reading later. I am done for the year. This car my, hobbies and Christmas making me feel sick with all the spending.
Just picked up an Efini Y-Pipe with crossover and CCV for $175. Sending the down pipe out in a few weeks and will start the process of taking the y-pipe and downpipe off next weekend.
Gauges should be primarily for tuning. Warning beepers or buzzers work better for something that goes wrong. Hear a buzzer and get off the gas and figure out what's going wrong. You shouldn't need to monitor, say, oil temperature or fuel pressure during a normal WOT pull. Your eyes should be on the road. Just my not so humble opinion.
That's great in theory.
In the real world cars like to break themselves, things change, temperatures change, tunes aren't perfect, etc.
I like to be able to glance at my boost levels and AFR mid pull if need be. But I also don't like ripping motors out every weekend. YMMV.
Also if you are having an issue being able to see your gauges mid pull is crucial (if you don't have a way to log).
Gauges where you can't see them without looking away from the road are all but useless to me.
For gauges I prefer when they are in one's peripheral vision while looking at the road and with a visible needle (analog).
This way when you are driving you get used to the needle being in one position on the gauge face under normal operating conditions and it will jump out at you and make you look at the gauge when the needle is somewhere it shouldn't be. Gauges with alarm/light settings are very nice for this as well.
I have had needle position noticed in my peripheral vision help me notice an engine condition in the past and also when I got too small of a steering wheel where the rim hid the fuel level gauge needle in my normal seating position (had to move my head a bit to view gauge) I had it bite me in the *** several times and didn't get gas when I needed it. Switched to a larger steering wheel and never ran out of gas again.
My takeaway?
I'm too lazy to move my head to look at a gauge, but I do notice their general reading in my peripheral vision when driving.
You have to look away from the road to look at any gauge dipshit.
Little butt hurt are we? If you are trying to argue that it's just as easy to look down below your stereo to read a gauge vs. an a-pillar pod, center speaker pod, hell ANY pod that's in your line of sight then it is more than obvious who the dipshit is.
on the front. Thanks for the info.
. Sent them an email and I now have to send the gauge in...so much for the quality check. They must have just put it in that status and not actually checked the gauge 
