The butt hurt statement sounds like the voice of experience. Maybe you should carry a cushion around with you.

I have had DIN mount gauges in my car for nearly 15 years. I never had any problem taking a quick glance at my boost gauge to see what its doing. Some tasks are too difficult for impaired people. You should probably stick to something easier.... Dipshit!!!

 

Man you all seriously know how to derail a thread. This thread would not be 7 pages long if not for the derails...

 

I'm a fan of the center speaker pod myself. In my opinion it looks better than the A-pillar or where the stereo used to be. To each his own however

 

Still melting down? That's cute.

 

@cloead and adam c can you all direct message each other directly and hash it out there. Thanks

 

efini Y-pipe came in.

 

 

Well started taking off the y-pipe and downpipe. Will be ordering some new rubber lines too.

 

You can see the swollen coolant hose in this picture!!!!

 

If it hasn't been mentioned there is an updated version of the coolant hoses with a more heat resistant reinforcement braid (probably Nomex or similar vs standard Nylon). I bought the coolant hose kit from Malloy Mazda when I did my rebuild. They probably still offer it.

​​​​​​​Definitely wouldn't use off-the-shelf hose unless it is high temp especially that close to the turbo.

 

 

 

Well dang nut on the stud on the main cat will not break!!!!! I have soaked and soaked and soaked...heated and heated and heated. Last resort is a nut cracker.

 

Edit

 

I am officially beat!!!!! Started cutting it and that did not work, and I bet a nut splitter would not have either. Guessing I am going to have to curt the whole stud off. Any suggestion prior to me doing this? Will wait an hour for a reply

 

 

What did you use to heat it? You need to get that thing super hot when it’s good and stuck. I’ve used a map gas torch before which is hotter than propane and it didn’t work. Then I got the oxy/acetylene rig out and that was able to loosen it. Of course it would have cut it off had I chose to go that route. Good luck

 

Yeah propane torch. I am going to cut it off. Too much oil residue and liquid wrench all over the place.

 

Just unbolt the other end of the cat, and remove both at the same time.

 

 

 

 

I know I do not need a mid pipe but with this all off I probably will just do a high flow cat and watch the boost while driving until I get a boost controller. Not 100%...so do not go crazy guys because I am probably going to put the stock cat back on.

I know I put the cart before the horse on this one . Will send the downpipe out to get coated, get coolant hose, get lines for new y-pipe that broke, get gaskets, and debate on new cat. Mainly did this first so that I would not keep driving it over the winter

 

Glad that worked for you. Now likely easier to separate them without the car in the way.

 

I have that Racing Beat exhaust on mine. It's really nice and I'll probably never change it. It's the best sounding exhaust and looks pretty much stock. Also less worry about it scraping like big fart cans can.

I don't know if it really changes the AFR (aren't there sensors for that?), but reducing exhaust backpressure does change the point (as in, how high RPMs get) at which delta engine pressure goes from negative to positive which does change overlap, and rotaries like having a little overlap.
Afaik, the "liking overlap" comes down to helping cool the engine and reducing knock, and I'm not sure about any effect on AFR.

Ideally, you'd have a restrictor that closes up at lower RPMs in these cars to increase exhaust pressure, and thus exhaust manifold pressure, and thus keep engine pressure delta positive at lower RPMs while opening up at higher RPMs. I think those improve spool times as well.

So yeah. I'd agree on not getting too high flowing of an exhaust, and not removing precat with the stock ECU.