Buckey's Pro-Am Build: '87 Mazda RX7 TurboII
SO basically adding spacers after one just toe's your wheels out nothing more. Interesting. Great info guys should probably post this in the drift setup page.
Sorry for the thread hack BuckNasty
Sorry for the thread hack BuckNasty
Although only the inner rack spacer is gaining more angle, double rack spacers increases the length between the threads going in to the rack and the outer ball joint. So if you extend the lower ball joint, adding another rack spacer is an easy way for the 'tie rod' to be longer.
Since the you increased the distance between the LCA inner pick up and the lower ball joint, but not the distance between the inner tie rod ball joint and the outer tie rod ball joint, bump steer could become a problem. I've never owned a lowered FC, just something you might consider.
Since the you increased the distance between the LCA inner pick up and the lower ball joint, but not the distance between the inner tie rod ball joint and the outer tie rod ball joint, bump steer could become a problem. I've never owned a lowered FC, just something you might consider.
considering how much you drive your car I'm sure you know what works best.
there's better ways of doing things and I'm trying to direct people on the better way to do them.
I wouldn't suggest anyone trying to compete in an FC to run 11's up front.. but you keep doing your thing Chance, it's obviously been working out really well for you...
to the rest of those people trying to actually set up their car up for drifting, I'd suggest running one spacer and getting the extra distance by using a bump steer tie rod link and stock length inner tie rod instead of the shorter tie rod link that comes in most angle kits and trimming the inner tie rod.
but for those that want an even better "proven" setup, you don't need any of that stuff.. just run stock s5 control arm, properly built knuckles, angle kit and have 55+ deg of angle with no rub. I've tried extending lower control arms, moving the tie rod pick up point, adding/subtracting caster... it's all worthless IMO.. keep it simple and stop trying to re-invent the wheel...
something to think about: if GP sport or Super Now thought it was better to run 2 rack spacers don't you think they'd try and sell 2 in their kits.. or maybe they just like making less money.
there's better ways of doing things and I'm trying to direct people on the better way to do them.
I wouldn't suggest anyone trying to compete in an FC to run 11's up front.. but you keep doing your thing Chance, it's obviously been working out really well for you...
to the rest of those people trying to actually set up their car up for drifting, I'd suggest running one spacer and getting the extra distance by using a bump steer tie rod link and stock length inner tie rod instead of the shorter tie rod link that comes in most angle kits and trimming the inner tie rod.
but for those that want an even better "proven" setup, you don't need any of that stuff.. just run stock s5 control arm, properly built knuckles, angle kit and have 55+ deg of angle with no rub. I've tried extending lower control arms, moving the tie rod pick up point, adding/subtracting caster... it's all worthless IMO.. keep it simple and stop trying to re-invent the wheel...
something to think about: if GP sport or Super Now thought it was better to run 2 rack spacers don't you think they'd try and sell 2 in their kits.. or maybe they just like making less money.
my thoughts exactly.
Charles went back to stock front LCA - unless he just had spare stock LCAs by his car at FD vegas.
it seriously looks like flux core welds.
mike essa had decent looking control arms on his bmw, i highly doubt he would do that, and run them.
Charles went back to stock front LCA - unless he just had spare stock LCAs by his car at FD vegas.
it seriously looks like flux core welds.
mike essa had decent looking control arms on his bmw, i highly doubt he would do that, and run them.
Well I'll hit you guys with some deductive reasoning. Here are pics of Essa's car when it was still his and getting built for the 2009 season


and the above pic

is from when Charles Ng owned the car and was swapping out the Zeal coilovers for the DG5s from his crashed 240. Means they were safe enough to pass tech and last over a year.
I have no idea if Charles eventually got rid of em though.


and the above pic

is from when Charles Ng owned the car and was swapping out the Zeal coilovers for the DG5s from his crashed 240. Means they were safe enough to pass tech and last over a year.
I have no idea if Charles eventually got rid of em though.
We could seriously go on for days arguing this... but I'm sure there's a lot of the story you're missing because one: you don't talk or deal with either Mike or Charles on a regular basis and two: you're not around the pits hearing whats happening at every event. but hey, if you think it's going to work better, good luck with it... also, last time I checked Mike drives a BMW and Charles quit drifting and sold the car to drive full time in European touring car ... but I'm still here trying to help out those getting into drifting Rx7's... just sayin.
We could seriously go on for days arguing this... but I'm sure there's a lot of the story you're missing because one: you don't talk or deal with either Mike or Charles on a regular basis and two: you're not around the pits hearing whats happening at every event. but hey, if you think it's going to work better, good luck with it... also, last time I checked Mike drives a BMW and Charles quit drifting and sold the car to drive full time in European touring car ... but I'm still here trying to help out those getting into drifting Rx7's... just sayin.
I have another LCA question, but I'll take that out of Buckey's thread.
but for those that want an even better "proven" setup, you don't need any of that stuff.. just run stock s5 control arm, properly built knuckles, angle kit and have 55+ deg of angle with no rub. I've tried extending lower control arms, moving the tie rod pick up point, adding/subtracting caster... it's all worthless IMO.
this is a set of knuckles i made all stock s5 front end basically i did tie rod spacers and got a decent amount more but why not do the control arms? wouldnt this help to avoid running big spacers or really low offset wheels up front? (not quite full lock in this pic and doesnt have spacers on)
this is a set of knuckles i made all stock s5 front end basically i did tie rod spacers and got a decent amount more but why not do the control arms? wouldnt this help to avoid running big spacers or really low offset wheels up front? (not quite full lock in this pic and doesnt have spacers on)
Gotta give it up to VarrsToen Wheels for all their support this season. Really down to where every minute counts, and they rushed everything for me. Really excited to see my RX7 on the ground with the new Hyper Black Varrstoen ES 2.2.1's! Thank you Navith, and Varrstoen! It's going to be a good season!
Check out their Facebook Page @:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/VarrsT...13724318667725
Did this today (no time to post right now)




...and last but not least.
Check out their Facebook Page @:
http://www.facebook.com/pages/VarrsT...13724318667725
Did this today (no time to post right now)




...and last but not least.
Would've been way cool had i not had to back half it. I was going to cut all that **** off and redo with my street car parts but then i realized i had no time so i left it all weird. Hot Line overs cover all of that **** and the mouldings cover the rest
18x9.5 +12 front, and 18x10.5 +15 rear


Looking fresh on the Varrstoen ES 2.2.1's with 225/40s up front, and stretching 265/35's in the rear


pulling it apart. selling my injectors, turbo kit, and doing a GTX3582r. might keep the manifold so i'm not spending millions, but who knows. Doc race seems way good for pretty decent pricing. aside from that stuff i'm looking into OS Giken clutch, diff, and hitting up Hot Line for chassis setup.



Im sorry man, sucks to see you put all this work into the car just to wreck it