Savannah RX-7 Club
where at danny? and im takin out my engine friday or sat and rebuilding it myself if you could help sat id appreciate it. im broke though
might pay for lunch and beer? dont have a cherry picker looking to lift it out by hand. also who is the guy who does the porting in sav? looking to do a large street port.
might pay for lunch and beer? dont have a cherry picker looking to lift it out by hand. also who is the guy who does the porting in sav? looking to do a large street port.
where at danny? and im takin out my engine friday or sat and rebuilding it myself if you could help sat id appreciate it. im broke though
might pay for lunch and beer? dont have a cherry picker looking to lift it out by hand. also who is the guy who does the porting in sav? looking to do a large street port.
might pay for lunch and beer? dont have a cherry picker looking to lift it out by hand. also who is the guy who does the porting in sav? looking to do a large street port.I was going to do it in my buddys garage here in Hinesvegas.
I'm such a newbie. While tracking down a coolant leak I decided to remove the factory air box in order to get a better look at the radiator. One of the smaller hoses that leads into the air box was really stuck. I pulled as hard as I could, and it finally came off. But instead of taking the hose I broke off the neck to the air box.
Well I was able to clearly see the coolant coming out of the radiator where the plastic meets the metal coils. So I ordered a new Koyo radiator today. Solving one problem has caused another. I was hoping someone would have a suggestion for an air intake replacement?
I have some experience working with fiberglass and metal. So I thought I could make my own air box with aftermarket filters. Has anyone done something like this, or would it be a waste of time? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Well I was able to clearly see the coolant coming out of the radiator where the plastic meets the metal coils. So I ordered a new Koyo radiator today. Solving one problem has caused another. I was hoping someone would have a suggestion for an air intake replacement?
I have some experience working with fiberglass and metal. So I thought I could make my own air box with aftermarket filters. Has anyone done something like this, or would it be a waste of time? Any suggestions would be appreciated.
Go with Goopy I like them better. Don’t like Als. From the racers perspective they support their racecars with Pharmacy money. In addition, the reason I like RA apex seals vs. Goopy and Als is the longevity of the rotor housings. RA seals were designed for planes engines that were intended to run for long periods and the racers found them to be reliable on high horsepower engines. This is before goopy and als came out. I’m not saying that the other ones are no good it’s just than they were designed for racing and the engines usually get torn down after a max of 60 passes down the track. That’s my 2 cents
http://goopyperformance.com/content/apex-seals
http://goopyperformance.com/content/apex-seals
Hey, I dont think Ill have the parts in, I just got back from the field and have to choose a clutch/pressureplate combo that I am going to order...Any suggestions? Mark had mentioned his 6 puck clutch.
http://www2.advancedclutch.com/11924...1.3L_T_FI.html
http://www2.advancedclutch.com/11924...1.3L_T_FI.html
Apex Seals
I was reading some of the postings in reference to Apex Seals and here is my personal experience in both street and racing. Despite all the rumors you hear about which one is the best or which one is the strongest, the fact is that Atkins make the best Apex Seals for the street. They sell two versions, regular hardening and cryogenic hardening which is a better option for turbo engines.
The rest of the brands and Apex seals you find around, are very abrasive to the housing surface and therefore the housing wears out a lot quicker than normal.
Here is the main difference, Atkins are designed to break and crumble under extreme conditions, detonations, extremely lean conditions and some other crazy situations. The Apex Seal crumbles and it gets trown out thru the exhaust causing little or no damage to the engine.
In the other hand, "RA"Super Seals, ALS, Goopy and some versions of Hurley are so strong that they are virtually indestructible. When they get under similar conditions as listed above, they bend and hardly ever break, but when they break you could say bye to the engine, Believe me I have seen many and is not a pretty sight.
Super seal designed theirs with Aviation performance in mind, but just remember, Rotary engines on airplanes run at a constant RPM and they stay within that range for long period of times, they are not constantly rev up and down like cars do. We found out their reliability and next thing you knew, we were pushing 50PSI of boost on race cars using those Apex Seals with no problems. For racing purposes, every 10 to 15 passes on the track, the engine gets disassemble and replaced with another one, so it doesn't really matter.
Is up to you to decide whether you want to wear your engine quicker and if something happens you may have to replace some parts or buy an Apex seal that is going to perform as good and are more gentle to the housings.
Final recommendation is:
For street aspirated, Racing beat, Atkins or Classic "RA"Apex Seals.
For street Turbo and up to 30 PSI, Atkins Cryo or Classic "RA" Apex Seals
For Racing, "RA" Black Super Seals, ALS, Goopy, Hurley
I don’t really care what you buy, is your money and engine but be smart about it and don’t listen too much to rumors.
I know some of you are going to disagree with me, but after 20 plus years working with rotary engines, I think I know what I am talking about.
You decide...
The rest of the brands and Apex seals you find around, are very abrasive to the housing surface and therefore the housing wears out a lot quicker than normal.
Here is the main difference, Atkins are designed to break and crumble under extreme conditions, detonations, extremely lean conditions and some other crazy situations. The Apex Seal crumbles and it gets trown out thru the exhaust causing little or no damage to the engine.
In the other hand, "RA"Super Seals, ALS, Goopy and some versions of Hurley are so strong that they are virtually indestructible. When they get under similar conditions as listed above, they bend and hardly ever break, but when they break you could say bye to the engine, Believe me I have seen many and is not a pretty sight.
Super seal designed theirs with Aviation performance in mind, but just remember, Rotary engines on airplanes run at a constant RPM and they stay within that range for long period of times, they are not constantly rev up and down like cars do. We found out their reliability and next thing you knew, we were pushing 50PSI of boost on race cars using those Apex Seals with no problems. For racing purposes, every 10 to 15 passes on the track, the engine gets disassemble and replaced with another one, so it doesn't really matter.
Is up to you to decide whether you want to wear your engine quicker and if something happens you may have to replace some parts or buy an Apex seal that is going to perform as good and are more gentle to the housings.
Final recommendation is:
For street aspirated, Racing beat, Atkins or Classic "RA"Apex Seals.
For street Turbo and up to 30 PSI, Atkins Cryo or Classic "RA" Apex Seals
For Racing, "RA" Black Super Seals, ALS, Goopy, Hurley
I don’t really care what you buy, is your money and engine but be smart about it and don’t listen too much to rumors.
I know some of you are going to disagree with me, but after 20 plus years working with rotary engines, I think I know what I am talking about.
You decide...
Last edited by NaGa-R; Jun 15, 2012 at 08:42 PM.










