Old guys with 12As club meeting
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mazdaverx713b (07-11-23)
My new 1979 SA, found by Dean on a one lane country road in Mars Hill, North Carolina.
A former track car, in very restorable condition!
Cleaned up a bit:
A former track car, in very restorable condition!
Cleaned up a bit:
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mazdaverx713b (07-11-23)
Dump all my best parts in it of course.
First, I'll strip it down and give it a well deserved paint job, love that burnt orange.
The interior, for a 79, is in great shape, fully restorable with a nice model correct clarion sound system.
Power will be a street ported FB 12A I got hanging around. Carbs, who knows? Maybe even Webers?
I need to find a full racing beat exhaust system, please let me know if you hear of any.
And I think the Rotary Gods would be pleased if I put those 15" panasports on it, don't you?
First, I'll strip it down and give it a well deserved paint job, love that burnt orange.
The interior, for a 79, is in great shape, fully restorable with a nice model correct clarion sound system.
Power will be a street ported FB 12A I got hanging around. Carbs, who knows? Maybe even Webers?
I need to find a full racing beat exhaust system, please let me know if you hear of any.
And I think the Rotary Gods would be pleased if I put those 15" panasports on it, don't you?
James in my opinion those orange plaid seats are the ultimate SA statement, but unfortunately the fabric is worn paper thin and the vinyl is coming apart, so they will need some attention. I wonder if there's an upholsterer out there someplace who could take them back to original looking?
Clyde I'm new to ported 12As, all I've ever had were stock 12As with a stock nikki and other than one summer, the rats nest installed. But I really like the idea of having a nikki if it can be modified to feed a street ported 12A. Does anybody have any information on this?
Michael and James, you're both due for an upgrade in your rotor count, Michael to 20 rotors and James to 10 rotors. You guys need to get on the mods about this.
Clyde I'm new to ported 12As, all I've ever had were stock 12As with a stock nikki and other than one summer, the rats nest installed. But I really like the idea of having a nikki if it can be modified to feed a street ported 12A. Does anybody have any information on this?
Michael and James, you're both due for an upgrade in your rotor count, Michael to 20 rotors and James to 10 rotors. You guys need to get on the mods about this.
Last edited by ray green; 05-21-23 at 11:44 AM.
HeyHeyHey..Its the Goose
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James in my opinion those orange plaid seats are the ultimate SA statement, but unfortunately the fabric is worn paper thin and the vinyl is coming apart, so they will need some attention. I wonder if there's an upholsterer out there someplace who could take them back to original looking?
Clyde I'm new to ported 12As, all I've ever had were stock 12As with a stock nikki and other than one summer, the rats nest installed. But I really like the idea of having a nikki if it can be modified to feed a street ported 12A. Does anybody have any information on this?
Michael and James, you're both due for an upgrade in your rotor count, Michael to 20 rotors and James to 10 rotors. You guys need to get on the mods about this.
Clyde I'm new to ported 12As, all I've ever had were stock 12As with a stock nikki and other than one summer, the rats nest installed. But I really like the idea of having a nikki if it can be modified to feed a street ported 12A. Does anybody have any information on this?
Michael and James, you're both due for an upgrade in your rotor count, Michael to 20 rotors and James to 10 rotors. You guys need to get on the mods about this.
For seats I personally looking at Racing Beat. They make fine intake manifolds; sewing is the same as casting aluminum right???
Porting is over rated IMPO (then again I've never had an OEM port 12A). You can definitely get a Nikki to keep up with a street port 12A.
Yeah, I suppose I've been rotaring a while now. I think after about 10 years I'm finally starting to get the rotary engine figured out. LOL
EDIT: Ray you HAVE to take the "Crane CAMS" sticker off the car if you put a rotary back in there
Last edited by Qingdao; 05-21-23 at 08:58 PM.
Yeah the "Crane CAMS" sticker has got to go, that's already been pointed out.
I'll check out Racing Beat for seats, if they can do intake manifolds, not to mention exhaust, surely they can do plaid SA seats.
Thanks James, now get that rotor count upgraded, ok?
I'll check out Racing Beat for seats, if they can do intake manifolds, not to mention exhaust, surely they can do plaid SA seats.
Thanks James, now get that rotor count upgraded, ok?
I was told by another thread to slide over here for some info so I'm just gonna copy and paste and hope for the best lol
Got my old girl moved today so now I know she rolls. Brakes work, clutch engages and disengages, and everything else seems to be in working order when battery power is applied.....but....motor seems to be seized.
Tried multiple times using jumper cables and even tried using the push start method and nothing seems to make the motor spin. Could really use some help with that. Maybe marvel mystery oil? Leaving a pic in here since she actually moved. Maybe not under her own power but it did move lol
Also, I thought I should point out that it was running 5 years ago when I parked it.
Got my old girl moved today so now I know she rolls. Brakes work, clutch engages and disengages, and everything else seems to be in working order when battery power is applied.....but....motor seems to be seized.
Tried multiple times using jumper cables and even tried using the push start method and nothing seems to make the motor spin. Could really use some help with that. Maybe marvel mystery oil? Leaving a pic in here since she actually moved. Maybe not under her own power but it did move lol
Also, I thought I should point out that it was running 5 years ago when I parked it.
First pray to the Rotary Gods.
The best way would be with a good size breaker bar and socket to go on the main shaft.
Add a bunch of oil to the spark plug holes and carb, if it has one, MMO or transmission fluid work.
Then carefully work the breaker bar back and forth to see if you can get it loose. If not, time for a rebuild.
The best way would be with a good size breaker bar and socket to go on the main shaft.
Add a bunch of oil to the spark plug holes and carb, if it has one, MMO or transmission fluid work.
Then carefully work the breaker bar back and forth to see if you can get it loose. If not, time for a rebuild.
Praying to the rotary gods is something I've already been doing since I jumped back on this project lol
Should I remove the intake and sparkies before i start working it? Seems like I should for less resistance.
would rocking it back and forth with the clutch engaged assist while using a breaker bar?
Sorry for all the questions. Its my first time having to deal with this
Should I remove the intake and sparkies before i start working it? Seems like I should for less resistance.
would rocking it back and forth with the clutch engaged assist while using a breaker bar?
Sorry for all the questions. Its my first time having to deal with this
Well I'm no expert, I hope others will join in.
But I've had a couple of stuck 12As that I was able to nurse loose with lots of MMO and gentle persuasion with a breaker bar.
Sounds like you've got the right instincts, imagine a little bit of crud or debris jamming one of those apex seals.
You just need to nudge it loose.
It helps to chant Zoooooom....Zoooooom....Zoooooooom.... while nudging with the bar.
Worked for me.
And yes remove the sparkies, if the intake is EFI I don't know, probably wouldn't hurt.
But I've had a couple of stuck 12As that I was able to nurse loose with lots of MMO and gentle persuasion with a breaker bar.
Sounds like you've got the right instincts, imagine a little bit of crud or debris jamming one of those apex seals.
You just need to nudge it loose.
It helps to chant Zoooooom....Zoooooom....Zoooooooom.... while nudging with the bar.
Worked for me.
And yes remove the sparkies, if the intake is EFI I don't know, probably wouldn't hurt.
Last edited by ray green; 06-06-23 at 10:32 PM.
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AerosRX7 (06-07-23)
Senior Member
Based on the wheels I am assuming it is a GSL-SE with a fuel injected 13B?
You need to remove the spark plugs anyway to get oil into the chambers. Leaving them out while you try the breaker bar won't hurt. You probably want to remove the intake to get oil on that side of the rotors anyway. Having it on or off won't affect the breaker bar technique.
You want the clutch disengaged (pedal pressed down) or the transmission in neutral while you use the breaker bar so the car doesn't try to roll on you when the motor breaks free.
You need to remove the spark plugs anyway to get oil into the chambers. Leaving them out while you try the breaker bar won't hurt. You probably want to remove the intake to get oil on that side of the rotors anyway. Having it on or off won't affect the breaker bar technique.
You want the clutch disengaged (pedal pressed down) or the transmission in neutral while you use the breaker bar so the car doesn't try to roll on you when the motor breaks free.
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AerosRX7 (06-07-23)
ironically, I've owned and SA and an FB before so one would think I know more but I'm struggling lol
This one in particular has me as a 3rd owner with just barely 150k miles on the OD.
Supposed to be bridge ported, aftermarket diff and an aftermarket gearbox on the trans. I don't know how much of that is true since I never had the privilege of diving into it very deep due to job changes over the period of my ownership.
I will say that the shifter does feel different than the previous ones I've owned and driven in the past. This one had me fishing for 3rd whereas I never had that problem with the 79 and 85 I owned. So, I guess my own research for tags and numbers is in order.
Mine? Not that I know of. I bought it from Bill Crankshaw who bought it from a Victor (i can't remember the last name) who bought it in 85 from a car lot.
I have most of the paperwork in the glove box and looks like I'm a 3rd owner.
The Victor guy bought it with 10 miles on it, Bill bought it from him at 130k miles in 1996 and then i bought it from Bill in 2015 with, I think, 153k miles. I haven't looked at the OD in quite sometime.
Btw, I did shove some MMO in it yesterday and it has been soaking. I have to work evenings so I haven't been back out there to try and budge the crank yet. I did hope for an instant effect yesterday but got nothing so far.
I have most of the paperwork in the glove box and looks like I'm a 3rd owner.
The Victor guy bought it with 10 miles on it, Bill bought it from him at 130k miles in 1996 and then i bought it from Bill in 2015 with, I think, 153k miles. I haven't looked at the OD in quite sometime.
Btw, I did shove some MMO in it yesterday and it has been soaking. I have to work evenings so I haven't been back out there to try and budge the crank yet. I did hope for an instant effect yesterday but got nothing so far.
It's the 12A and Holley carb that's curious, these don't usually get put in an SE.
Please have patience with the stuck motor, let it set awhile, then a bit of gentle persuasion with the breaker bar.
Repeat as necessary.
Please have patience with the stuck motor, let it set awhile, then a bit of gentle persuasion with the breaker bar.
Repeat as necessary.
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AerosRX7 (06-13-23)
Moderator
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since he said it was a 12a, i'm thinking it's a non-se with se suspension. then again, an se that had a 12a swapped into it. check the vin. if i remember right, should be FB332 for the se.
Last edited by rxtasy3; 06-13-23 at 10:40 AM.
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AerosRX7 (06-13-23)
HeyHeyHey..Its the Goose
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I was told by another thread to slide over here for some info so I'm just gonna copy and paste and hope for the best lol
Got my old girl moved today so now I know she rolls. Brakes work, clutch engages and disengages, and everything else seems to be in working order when battery power is applied.....but....motor seems to be seized.
Tried multiple times using jumper cables and even tried using the push start method and nothing seems to make the motor spin. Could really use some help with that. Maybe marvel mystery oil? Leaving a pic in here since she actually moved. Maybe not under her own power but it did move lol
Also, I thought I should point out that it was running 5 years ago when I parked it.
Got my old girl moved today so now I know she rolls. Brakes work, clutch engages and disengages, and everything else seems to be in working order when battery power is applied.....but....motor seems to be seized.
Tried multiple times using jumper cables and even tried using the push start method and nothing seems to make the motor spin. Could really use some help with that. Maybe marvel mystery oil? Leaving a pic in here since she actually moved. Maybe not under her own power but it did move lol
Also, I thought I should point out that it was running 5 years ago when I parked it.
Put another car in that spot. Just for the poor antlions sake.
Patience is something I am learning lol I'll get there at some point. I just want to hear her do the brap brap like before I parked her and neglected her lol