Old guys with 12As club meeting
#9804
That's JDM tight, yo
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Atlanta
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I've got a question for you fuel-injection savvy guys. Remember Jim, the one guy who came to that one meet in the red convertible that I changed the clutch in a while back? Well the car has trouble starting, and I did a little bit of research and I'm guessing the injectors are leaking, causing the engine to flood. The car's getting worse now, so that if it isn't started daily it will severely flood and needs to be clutch-started. So, will sending the injectors off to Witch-Hunter to be cleaned fix them, or will he need new ones since cleaning them won't fix the leaking? Regardless, before I do the work I'm going to make sure it's the injectors by putting a switch on the fuel pump and starting the car a few times over an extended period. And if the flooding issue could be another common problem, what might that be? Thanks old guys.
#9805
No distributor? No thanks
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: Outskirts of Road Atlanta
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Zach, I send mine off to www.witchhunter.com. Quick turnaround, inexpensive, all-new grommets, o-rings, and pintle caps, and he gives you a before and after pattern and flow report.
#9808
OGTA
iTrader: (5)
OGTA Collective Wisdom
I could use a little OGTA collective wisdom on my fuel delivery issue. Here is what I know.
1) The Blue One is getting 1400+ cc/min to the engine bay with the fuel pump hot wired and the glass filter inline.
2) If I hook it to the carb I am only getting a trickle out on the return line after the Mazda preassure/restrictor thing. I can never fill the glass fuel filter installed before the carb.
3) The Gray Ghost fills the glass filter and has a steady stream in the return line after the Mazda pressure/restrictor.
4) The Blue One can idle all day long and I can drive it as long as I don't push it. If I push it it will die from lack of fuel.
5) The fuel tank was pressurizing. I noticed this last night and I also confirmed that the vent line is clogged somewhere between the check valve and the charcoal cannister. I put a 15 in/Hg vacuum on that section of line and it held for 10+ minutes. The line from the tank to after the check valve is open and I left the hose after the check valve open to allow for venting.
Here is what I am planning next.
1) Confirm for the 3rd time I am getting 1400+ cc/min.
2) Check to see if I have resolved the fuel tank pressurization issue.
3) Swap the carb from the Gray Ghost to the Blue One.
I am running out of ideas on this. If I can't resolve this issue this week, I may have to call an OGTA meeting at my house on 3/20-21.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Anyone have a fuel pressure test guage I can use?
1) The Blue One is getting 1400+ cc/min to the engine bay with the fuel pump hot wired and the glass filter inline.
2) If I hook it to the carb I am only getting a trickle out on the return line after the Mazda preassure/restrictor thing. I can never fill the glass fuel filter installed before the carb.
3) The Gray Ghost fills the glass filter and has a steady stream in the return line after the Mazda pressure/restrictor.
4) The Blue One can idle all day long and I can drive it as long as I don't push it. If I push it it will die from lack of fuel.
5) The fuel tank was pressurizing. I noticed this last night and I also confirmed that the vent line is clogged somewhere between the check valve and the charcoal cannister. I put a 15 in/Hg vacuum on that section of line and it held for 10+ minutes. The line from the tank to after the check valve is open and I left the hose after the check valve open to allow for venting.
Here is what I am planning next.
1) Confirm for the 3rd time I am getting 1400+ cc/min.
2) Check to see if I have resolved the fuel tank pressurization issue.
3) Swap the carb from the Gray Ghost to the Blue One.
I am running out of ideas on this. If I can't resolve this issue this week, I may have to call an OGTA meeting at my house on 3/20-21.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Anyone have a fuel pressure test guage I can use?
#9809
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Based on all the info you gave Mike, I would say that you have some sort of
blockage between the glass filter and the inlet to the carb. I say this because
your getting 22 gph after the glass filter which is about right for the stock pump
and you state that the bowls don't appear full and your just seeing a trickle from
the return.
Does a nikki have one of those little filter things in the inlet when you remove
the connection? If so that may be clogged up. I'd pop the top of the carb and see
if anything looks amiss with the needle and seat as well.
blockage between the glass filter and the inlet to the carb. I say this because
your getting 22 gph after the glass filter which is about right for the stock pump
and you state that the bowls don't appear full and your just seeing a trickle from
the return.
Does a nikki have one of those little filter things in the inlet when you remove
the connection? If so that may be clogged up. I'd pop the top of the carb and see
if anything looks amiss with the needle and seat as well.
#9810
Needs More Noise
iTrader: (12)
I could use a little OGTA collective wisdom on my fuel delivery issue. Here is what I know.
1) The Blue One is getting 1400+ cc/min to the engine bay with the fuel pump hot wired and the glass filter inline.
2) If I hook it to the carb I am only getting a trickle out on the return line after the Mazda preassure/restrictor thing. I can never fill the glass fuel filter installed before the carb.
3) The Gray Ghost fills the glass filter and has a steady stream in the return line after the Mazda pressure/restrictor.
4) The Blue One can idle all day long and I can drive it as long as I don't push it. If I push it it will die from lack of fuel.
5) The fuel tank was pressurizing. I noticed this last night and I also confirmed that the vent line is clogged somewhere between the check valve and the charcoal cannister. I put a 15 in/Hg vacuum on that section of line and it held for 10+ minutes. The line from the tank to after the check valve is open and I left the hose after the check valve open to allow for venting.
Here is what I am planning next.
1) Confirm for the 3rd time I am getting 1400+ cc/min.
2) Check to see if I have resolved the fuel tank pressurization issue.
3) Swap the carb from the Gray Ghost to the Blue One.
I am running out of ideas on this. If I can't resolve this issue this week, I may have to call an OGTA meeting at my house on 3/20-21.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Anyone have a fuel pressure test guage I can use?
1) The Blue One is getting 1400+ cc/min to the engine bay with the fuel pump hot wired and the glass filter inline.
2) If I hook it to the carb I am only getting a trickle out on the return line after the Mazda preassure/restrictor thing. I can never fill the glass fuel filter installed before the carb.
3) The Gray Ghost fills the glass filter and has a steady stream in the return line after the Mazda pressure/restrictor.
4) The Blue One can idle all day long and I can drive it as long as I don't push it. If I push it it will die from lack of fuel.
5) The fuel tank was pressurizing. I noticed this last night and I also confirmed that the vent line is clogged somewhere between the check valve and the charcoal cannister. I put a 15 in/Hg vacuum on that section of line and it held for 10+ minutes. The line from the tank to after the check valve is open and I left the hose after the check valve open to allow for venting.
Here is what I am planning next.
1) Confirm for the 3rd time I am getting 1400+ cc/min.
2) Check to see if I have resolved the fuel tank pressurization issue.
3) Swap the carb from the Gray Ghost to the Blue One.
I am running out of ideas on this. If I can't resolve this issue this week, I may have to call an OGTA meeting at my house on 3/20-21.
Any thoughts appreciated.
Anyone have a fuel pressure test guage I can use?
Mike, I have a gauge you can use. It has a 1/4" NPT female inlet, you will need to pick up a T fitting to put inline in order to use it.
While trouble shooting the running and fuel delivery issues just take the gas cap off the car. This will eliminate pressurization and de-pressurization of the tank.
-billy
#9811
OGTA
iTrader: (5)
Mike, I have a gauge you can use. It has a 1/4" NPT female inlet, you will need to pick up a T fitting to put inline in order to use it.
While trouble shooting the running and fuel delivery issues just take the gas cap off the car. This will eliminate pressurization and de-pressurization of the tank.
-billy
While trouble shooting the running and fuel delivery issues just take the gas cap off the car. This will eliminate pressurization and de-pressurization of the tank.
-billy
#9815
Sleeper but still slow
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Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Georgia
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Wow black dragon sends me a bolt, and the nut that is SUPPOSED to thread onto it, and it binds after a quarter turn....... I go to autozone, use their threadpitch tester thingy, the bolt threads all the way down the 1/2 20 hole. So I buy a 1/2 20 threaded nut, and it only threads on about 4 full turns but binds again...(the nut is twice as thick/deep as the thread pitch testing thingy. Black dragon is sending me another bolt and another nut that they said they're gonig to test fit before sending, but I am carless until Monday or Tuesday of next week
#9816
Sleeper but still slow
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Ray, if you can drop the proper nut and bolt off at my work tomorrow on your way home, I'll buy you a chicken sandwich(or a milkshake if you don't want to spoil your wife's excellent cooking). I can give you directions to the Chick-fil-A where I work. It's just down Henderson mill street from where you work.
#9817
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Atlanta
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Unless I'm just being completely retarded today, 1/2 20 isn't metric sizing. 1/2 is real close to an M12 though, and can be mixed up at times (see the FD that lost all of his wheels at an autocross). And I can't remember a non-metric bolt on our cars.
Take a look at the nut itself. Is it kinda oval shaped? That would indicate it's a lock nut, and will be difficult to put on.
Today reminds me that I need to fix my wipers. I don't even know where to start on that one though.
Take a look at the nut itself. Is it kinda oval shaped? That would indicate it's a lock nut, and will be difficult to put on.
Today reminds me that I need to fix my wipers. I don't even know where to start on that one though.
#9818
Darn Chris, you are a day too late, I was just down on Henderson Mill Rd today going to the post office, but I don't plan to go into Atlanta again until Monday morning because I need to take the next few days for course preparation and a bit of R&R.
Anyway, we could get a better idea of what you need if you could post a photo from the FSM showing the bolt you need, then I'll see if I have it, which I probably do. Then we can figure out how to get it there, maybe Collin, who cruises into Atlanta for social events all the time.
Tim to do your wipers (I'm assuming it's the FB, if not, forget about it and work on the FB) lift the plastic caps, remove the two nuts holding the wiper arms on, then gently wiggle the arms off their pins. Then remove the inner nuts that hold the wiper assembly to the cowling.
Now open the hood and use a phillips screwdriver to remove the three or four screws that are holding the wiper cowling down and lift it out. Next undo the three or four 10 mm nuts that fasten down the wiper assembly and snake it out, you need to turn it just right to get by everything.
Do a complete clean up on the unit and wiper bay (if it were me I'd have the spay paint out), lube with lithium grease and put the whole thing back together with a new set of blades. Your will be good to go for another 25 years.
I need to put out an APB on Kristy, someone wants to know how you can get one of those PrePro's on the OSJC/OGTA thread under the nontech section:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/photos-our-recent-osjc-ogta-meet-891074/
Could someone who knows where she is ask her to check it out and tell these guys all about her car?
Anyway, we could get a better idea of what you need if you could post a photo from the FSM showing the bolt you need, then I'll see if I have it, which I probably do. Then we can figure out how to get it there, maybe Collin, who cruises into Atlanta for social events all the time.
Tim to do your wipers (I'm assuming it's the FB, if not, forget about it and work on the FB) lift the plastic caps, remove the two nuts holding the wiper arms on, then gently wiggle the arms off their pins. Then remove the inner nuts that hold the wiper assembly to the cowling.
Now open the hood and use a phillips screwdriver to remove the three or four screws that are holding the wiper cowling down and lift it out. Next undo the three or four 10 mm nuts that fasten down the wiper assembly and snake it out, you need to turn it just right to get by everything.
Do a complete clean up on the unit and wiper bay (if it were me I'd have the spay paint out), lube with lithium grease and put the whole thing back together with a new set of blades. Your will be good to go for another 25 years.
I need to put out an APB on Kristy, someone wants to know how you can get one of those PrePro's on the OSJC/OGTA thread under the nontech section:
https://www.rx7club.com/1st-gen-general-discussion-207/photos-our-recent-osjc-ogta-meet-891074/
Could someone who knows where she is ask her to check it out and tell these guys all about her car?
#9820
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Atlanta
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Yeah, the problem with my wipers is I have absolutely no idea where my problem is. Or, I have 3 problems. Most likely that is the case.
I have the whole assembly out of the car. It has the 4 wire plug there. With the wiper switch on in any position, I'm never getting voltage off of any of the wires to ground. I would assume it's 3 positives, and a ground, but I'm not entire sure. I could probably look at the wiring diagram. I may have, but honestly, I set this one to the side a while back (Rain-X was doing a fine job). Switch? Bad wiring? I would lean towards the switch first.
Then, I also tried putting 12v to the motor connectors from a battery. Nothing again. So dead motor too?
If I have those problems, I'm gonna assume the linkage is probably bound up too .
I have the whole assembly out of the car. It has the 4 wire plug there. With the wiper switch on in any position, I'm never getting voltage off of any of the wires to ground. I would assume it's 3 positives, and a ground, but I'm not entire sure. I could probably look at the wiring diagram. I may have, but honestly, I set this one to the side a while back (Rain-X was doing a fine job). Switch? Bad wiring? I would lean towards the switch first.
Then, I also tried putting 12v to the motor connectors from a battery. Nothing again. So dead motor too?
If I have those problems, I'm gonna assume the linkage is probably bound up too .
#9821
No distributor? No thanks
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If anyone wants to come blow the RX-2 a little kiss, it leaves on Sunday.
Believe it or not Tim, it's one hot and three grounds. I'd check for binding, then double check fuses.
Believe it or not Tim, it's one hot and three grounds. I'd check for binding, then double check fuses.
#9822
OGTA
iTrader: (5)
But I have to tell you, every time I see an FB with cupholder in it I get a little sick to my stomach.
See what I mean.
If you're going to have cupholders you might as well be driving a minivan.
#9823
Rotary Enthusiast
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Atlanta
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I would assume I checked the fuse, but I could be wrong. I'm fairly sure I checked for power at the fuse box for that circuit in the past. Can't hurt to check it again.
The nothing happening when putting 12v to the motor while it is out of the car is an issue all by itself though. I would expect that to do something, unless the motor is dead.
I dislike electrical.
#9825
Panama City is all Pink and Yellow, with lots of Neon. Go figure.
Tim, I hate electrical too, that's why I try to keep back ups of those things, but I checked the shed and I'm down to my last wiper assembly. Now Mike might have a good wiper assembly, since he's parting out the Gray Ghost, I don't know.
Mike, I know cup holders have a mini-van feel to them, but some of us OGTA's, the older ones, kind of like to have a few luxuries in life. My cup holder is part of me, holds my coffee and spare ignitors and even some spare change once in awhile, all the stuff that comes in handy. Try it, you might like it.
Congrats on the 2 sale Crit, does that mean OGTA has a new REPU?
Tim, I hate electrical too, that's why I try to keep back ups of those things, but I checked the shed and I'm down to my last wiper assembly. Now Mike might have a good wiper assembly, since he's parting out the Gray Ghost, I don't know.
Mike, I know cup holders have a mini-van feel to them, but some of us OGTA's, the older ones, kind of like to have a few luxuries in life. My cup holder is part of me, holds my coffee and spare ignitors and even some spare change once in awhile, all the stuff that comes in handy. Try it, you might like it.
Congrats on the 2 sale Crit, does that mean OGTA has a new REPU?