Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Lets compile a list!

I'll try to put a list together and we'll add on as we go...

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Greddy FMIC (M-spec core) = $480
Greddy Elbow = $120
Nippondenso Fuel Pump = $200
Greddy Profec-B II Boost Controller = $330


Sounds good! I am not up to date on the current IC or boost control. I am using the old school greddy spec b and it is great so I am sure the new one is only better. Only thing on IC is If you plan on doing a single turbo down the road make sure this will work with it. That is the one thing a regret. Buying so many parts and then selling at a loss to only buy same parts again (example: smic to fmic). But I like the idea of adding power instead of looks for now. I think the car is already good looking enough! Maybe you need to put your name on the tuning event after all!!!!!

hus

I sent Jason an email about the FMIC and he said it's good for 700hp!! Funny thing is, is that the website says "for stock twins" and I know 700hp is about 300hp or better more than the stock twins can handle. I know I keep changing my mind on things but I don't know if I'll ever go single...probably BNR Stage 3. Who knows I might scratch the FMIC...YES, I'm wishywashy

I would love to put my name of the tuning event but I don't think I would have everything installed by then. I mean I haven't even order that stuff yet and the DP/MP combo that I ordered from Jason has been almost 2 weeks coming so if I ordered all those other parts from him it might be a while with their move and all. If I don't order from him then I've got to shop around and see what I can find. Not to mention that I have no experience installing any of this stuff...ought to be fun

SPICcnmGT

If you aren't doing any injector upgrades, their isn't really a reason to buy a fuel pump right now. Just incase you want to spend some money on something else.

I thought you had a Greddy elbow??

HDP

iTrader: (2)

A Walbro fuel pump is 1/2 the cost and will probably suit your needs. And unless you just have your heart set on that boost controller, I would opt for the Profec type S.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Unless you are up the boost. Stock injectors at 85% duty cycle =360 fly wheel hp.
Here, got this off rx7.com's site:
The stock fuel system on the 3rd generation RX-7, with an appropriate ECU upgrade, can support upwards of 380HP* on the stock motor. The first component in the system to need replacing is the stock fuel pump. We offer an upgraded stock replacement pump which is an easy bolt in and can support over 500HP*.

Your next limitation in the fuel system comes from the injectors themselves. The stock fuel system uses two 550cc injectors for primaries and two 850cc injectors for secondaries which come on at higher RPMs. Those injectors, maxed to their extreme limit (100%), will support approximately 420HP* at stock fuel pressures. You don’t want to push the injectors beyond 80%-85% duty cycle though for reliability reasons. To support more power on street driven cars, we recommend using additional injectors.

For those serious about RX-7 performance, looking for more power and more precise tuning we also offer two stand alone ECU systems, the Haltech and the Power FC. Stand alone ECUs are only recommended for the more advanced tuners, those with experience, with access to a dyno and a wide band air-fuel meter.

Last but definitely not least, make sure you change your fuel filter at least every 30,000 miles. No matter how big of a fuel pump or how many injectors you have, you won’t get the fuel you need unless you have a good, fresh fuel filter.


If you dont want to wait on the parts you listed above call 972-530-3335. Rotary Performance. I use them when ever possible. Chris and Ari have helped me so many times over the phone. GREAT customer service. Quick shipping! I just ordered some magnecor wires and water pump on a friday, got them on Monday ground shipping!!! I cant say enough good things about them.

hus

Chris- Luke hit me up for the elbow and Apexi BOV right after Deal's Gap so i sold them to him. I didn't really want an elbow with a bov flange.

Don- On the fuel pump...what if I eventually want to exceed the 350rwhp mark to say 425? Isn't the Walbro only good for about 390?

I've had a lot of guys tell me I need to get the stock fuel pump out because it's not too efficient the more mods you do, and I figure if I need to upgrade it anyway and the Walbro is only good to about 390hp unless you go to bigger map sensor, that I might as well throw on the Denso. I'll eventually be doing injectors.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

Brad, From the looks of it the new comp fuel pump from rx7.com would flow enough for that. I dynoed 427 with just there old single pump! I am now running dual pumps.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

This is my personal opinion... from what I've seen on this forum and what I've personally gone thru..

Make a goal of what you want.. I say this because you could go limitless what you could add to your car. If you want 300 or 500, you need to kind of decide on that now if you can.. Otherwise, you'll be buying and selling stuff later on.... but that could also be fun!

regarding fuel pump.. well, since you have stock twins I think you'll be ok until you decide to go with something else..

My recommendation would be to get all the gauges so you could monitor whats going on with your car instead of getting **** that you just bolt on and hope everything is going well... especially if you are going to build up the car later on.. ie, fuel pressure, oil temp, oil pressure, wideband, etc...

I also think FD with 300 to mid 300 is perfect for street and fun factor.. but I'm sure 600HP would be fun in different ways

hus

Well, I would like to be in the 330 to 350 range. And if I get there I'll probably be there for a while. I may go BNR Stage 3 well down the road but not any time this year. Who knows, maybe Mike will give me a ride in his car and I'll want to go single. But for now I would be happy with the following:

330-350rwhp
Scoot hood
FEED front end

The problem is, what all do I really need to do and/or don't need to do to get to the 330-350 range. And I know that I don't need the hood and bumper so...Every website I look at has different parts for their so called "Power Stages" and some of what some of you are saying is different from that as well.

Everyone says the "Trial and Error" method is too expensive to do so that's why I'm asking what parts need to be purchased first to get me to my goal?

I really appreciate the help but I'm confused as hell as to what to buy first.

Brad

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

I'm sure you could get to your goal by turning up the boost...

But people buy IC and other junk to make the car more, 'reliable'.

i've seen stock FD with just PFC make mid 300@ the wheels non-seq... with just DP and boost controller..

What people tend to do with all the add on is to make the car more,'reliable power'. Ie, you get the upgraded IC to maintain more reasonable intake temp.... rad to get lower water temp when boosting higher.. Eventually, you'll hit a point where your fuel isn't going to match up with power and air... thats when you need to upgrade to BIGGER inj and/or fuel pump....

I hope you understand what I'm saying.... if so and want to make that reliable HP, then you need to spend most of or all your 2k on performance mod.. and not buy any body parts...

hus

Phil,

I understand what you're saying. And I am going to put on the DP and MP and a boost controller and see what that does for me.

In the past my grandad helped me build 2 Mustang GTs. One was all motor, the other was motor and a 100 shot of Nitrous, huge Mass Air Sensor, Fat Intake and etc. Air/fuel ratio is big deal to get right for a proper tune on those motors as well and I worked and worked at it until I had the second car running mid 8s in the 1/8th. Not fast as some of these FDs but fast for a 4800lb car.

The problem for me has been no one has ever came out and said what you just said...that you can just run a DP and boost controller and make decent hp for the street. I'm glad to hear it! Everyone is always saying, "No, no, no, don't do that or you'll pop your motor." Since I'm still learning the rotary motor I don't really want to start off by popping it so I've been REALLY CAREFUL! Maybe to careful. After all I did build those Mustangs but I also poped them to...not mention, melted the piston rings in the second one because of a stupid thing called Nitrous Oxide

I just want to do my FD right and have a fun and fast street car. I'm NOT looking for 1/8th mile or 1/4 mile times...I did enough of that with Mustangs and Bikes.

I've pretty much scratched the idea of body parts right now because I don't really want to wait on the paint and such...like I said I'm wishywashy when it comes to my cars, trucks and bikes.

I do appreciate the advice and help.

Brad

SPICcnmGT

Brad, I ran the stock PFC timing maps at around 13psi, with IC, intakes, DP, MP, CB, BNR's, stock injectors, stock fuel pump, inj duty around 95% at redline. And ended up making 305 with a richish tune and ran that for almost a year before adding larger inj. and a walbro. I also think I have average to low compression, it's had a hard life since I've got it. Me and Phil both have a WB and I'm sure either will let you borrow it if you need to.

I also think this motor gets alot of bad rap due to people doing stupid stuff, like turning the boost when it's not tuned for it or just not taking care of it. There are also those occasions where a vac. hose pops off and causes problems, but that could happen on any motor. I think with 300-350ish hp it can be almost if not as reliable as any piston engine, and out run most.

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

OK. Here is my take as I have been there done that.

I would buy the following:
IC (500-1000) I would make sure it will work with a single setup!
Upgraded radiator (350)
either bypass ast or upgrade (0-125)
innovative LC-1 with XD-1 wideband (300)
datalogit (250+) used is fine
vac line job (I think you have this)
find a used old school profec B boost controleasy and works great! (150-200)
MP-DP (Agian I would buy from rx7.com!) $?
Pulley kit (100)
Change all fluids in the car (tranny to diff)
clutch line
I may have left out an item or 2. Will add if I remember.
Most important is having it tuned. EVERY car is differant. You can not expect to pull out the best numbers using a runof the mill map. If that was the case tuners would not exist! You would just get your map with your new purchase. I believe the only reason the PFC came withg that map is so the majority of buyers could start there car with them. Just to note.I made 330rwhp with intake-dp-mp-smic-boost control-upgraded pump with a piggy back ecu @13psi. So I think you could do better as the PFC is much better then what I was using back then. Have Brian tune it to 14psi. Tune to low 11's and you should net 350rwhp. Also Phil is so right, A 350rwhp fd is a blast. I sometimes miss those days. You will out run almost every car you come up against. Car will still be very streetable, quite, has ac, you can here your radio still!

hus

I have installed:
Apexi Power FC (base map)
HKS Super Megaflow Dual Intake
RB Dual-Tip Catback
Silicon vac lines
Pettit Racing AST
Pettit Boost Gauge
Pettit Ground Wiring Kit

Ok, I have bought:

rx7store DP/MP combo = $225
Mudguards= $175
Greddy Profec-B Spec 2 = $330
Nippondenso Fuel Pump= $200

That comes to about $930 so I should have $1070 left but I don't...let me explain. I spent a lot of money in FL fishing. Yea, I know, but I'm a big fishing guy and I also bought a couple of new expensive rod and reels and I'm fine with it because fishing is something I enjoy about as much as my car. Anyway, I actually have $650 left to spend on my car. There...I confessed and that's where am at money-wise for the FD.

Oh, I also bought my wife one of those multi-bottle wine storage coolers for Mother's Day to. Sue me.
Brad

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

LOL!

Well Brad, You could spend that money on BDC and get a tune or buy a datalogit and wideband and tune it yourself.... Personally, I would do the later and spend some time learning about tuning and such... Bunch of us here in Alabama are turning into somewhat of a tuning snobs.. me included.. And, It would be good to talk **** about it and share ideas..

b16richard

iTrader: (2)

well, if any rotary tuners plan any trip down south, shoot me a PM.

hus

Blah, blah, blah? You mean you didn't want to hear about my fishing? lol. Snobs that share...hmmm, sounds fishy

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

I knew you would like that comment

hus

So I guess you are refering to the comment I made on MRCCAL.com about tuning being some big secret on this forum? Yea, I still think it is.

I mean most of us that are new to tuning an FD aren't looking for a handout but rather just a hand. That's why I rather just talk to you guys that are in AL. But sometimes it's fun just to see how many times you can get flammed for asking a question in 3rd Gen Specific Forum

Anyway, I guess that's enough about my lack of tuning...so who's going to this 7/7/07 thing?

sk8world

iTrader: (5)

So how was the fishing? Snapper? Grouper? Last time I went we went Tarpan fishing. Not so much fun. I lived there for around 1 year and did not do enough fishing. But my dad now lives in NC mountains (1 hour from the gap) and has trout by his house. So I am going to give that a try.

So back on the tuning. I am with Phil on this. But I want to use Brian as kind of a short cut on getting there. I also do not feel confortable tuning to 25+psi. Just too much room for era up there. Now if I was tuning for 14-15psi I would do what Phil suggested. Start with the base map on the PFC log-log-adust-log-adust-log x 50 times and have a good running car!!

hus

I do more freshwater fishing (smallmouth and largemouth mostly) than saltwater but I had a blast catching 3 to 5lb Bluefish...meanest fish in the ocean, teeth like razorblades but fairly good eating. Would've liked to have brought in a King. I watched a 15 year old reel in a 18.5lb King! Nice fish!

Anyway, on the tuning, I'm just going to buy the basics and possibly a WB and datalogit and just try a few things myself. We'll see.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

LMAO! I like the New Avitar Hus! I used to go fish almost everyday for about 3 years when I was young...

Anyhow, regarding tuning.. I agree with Mike! For what you want (mid 300), I think you might get better satisfaction if you tried to tune it yourself. Chris have been tuning his car and he's doing a great job! I need to learn from him.

I also agree why Mike is going with BDC. 500HP terratory is bit scary to jump into without some experience in tuning.. where as mid 200 to mid 300 is a better transition as you could take your time getting there and at reasonable time.

I know you think tuning is some secret.. and maybe it is to some tuners out there, but being in the world of science, I think its more trial and error and knowing the basics. By knowing the basics, we could make better hypothesis and experiment!
I know I've talked to Mike, Chris, and Stephen quite a bit about tuning.. And once you start reading up on the forum (the PFC section) and on Datalogit forum, you'll get the hang of it and more local people we could meet up and talk, better support group we'll have... Who knows, maybe we'll form a race team once we all become master tuners! LOL!


Hope what some of us are saying make sense to ya??

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

I'll add more more thing.. I miss Fishing! Maybe we should all go fishing and talk about TUNING! Seriously!

SPICcnmGT

I agree with Phil. If you buy a datalogit and a WB, and do some runs/logs, and look over it, you can learn alot about what is going on and what needs to be done, or what can be improved. Also get Chucks notes, they are very helpful for learning all the settings on the datalogit. And from what I've read and seen you can add timing or subtract fuel gradually and you can tell when you need to quit.

You may also want to buy the water pump/alt pulley's and block off plates, $120-200 for both, and get rid of the emissions, and do the simplified seq. so you can actually figure out what goes where. Simp. seq. is basically just the emissions hoses and actuators removed so they kinda go together. And after doing mine it never made sense why they call it simp. seq. when you really just remove the emissions vac. lines, you don't simplify anything with the turbo system.