Rtek rtek reset.
11-08-09, 04:05 PM
#1
Rotary Freak
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rtek reset.
87Tii
s5 motor with s4 main cover
streetported
rebuilt s5 turbo
750/750 injectors
full 3 in exhaust
tmic
I bought this car in georgia. i drove it back down to charleston with no problems. once here though it wouldnt turn on.
Im new to tuning with the rtek. i figured out that i had to adjust the alt from where it was at 1300ft to zero since i live in charleston and its in sea level.
after that the rtek came up with a message saying the ecu was being reset.
The ecu reset. so i set everything back up to how it was.
alt 0 ft
preset 720/720
I then turned the car on and it has a bad hesitation and wont idle.
the idle jumps from zero to around 800.
i logged the afrs and it was at 19 which is bad!
i added 10% fuel all the way through vaccum on every single bar since the car isnt stock and i still have the same problem.
Also the diag. said the only problem was the 02 but that only showed up when i pressed the gas.
s5 motor with s4 main cover
streetported
rebuilt s5 turbo
750/750 injectors
full 3 in exhaust
tmic
I bought this car in georgia. i drove it back down to charleston with no problems. once here though it wouldnt turn on.
Im new to tuning with the rtek. i figured out that i had to adjust the alt from where it was at 1300ft to zero since i live in charleston and its in sea level.
after that the rtek came up with a message saying the ecu was being reset.
The ecu reset. so i set everything back up to how it was.
alt 0 ft
preset 720/720
I then turned the car on and it has a bad hesitation and wont idle.
the idle jumps from zero to around 800.
i logged the afrs and it was at 19 which is bad!
i added 10% fuel all the way through vaccum on every single bar since the car isnt stock and i still have the same problem.
Also the diag. said the only problem was the 02 but that only showed up when i pressed the gas.
11-09-09, 11:28 PM
#3
Pistons are gay
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I'd like to say don't take this post as being 100% sure but just an idea.
I have an rtek 2.1 as well. Car is undergoing a build and thus hasn't been started yet. I'm still researching and reading on it, to fully understand before using.
The idle afr's change via variable resistor built into the ecu? And not by mapping?
On the fuel map. I believe the charts are RPM on the x-axis, and Boost y-axis. If mapping by chart. So to answer your question yes, in chart format.
Sounds like you need to download the manual, before moving another finger:
www.pocketlogger.com
I have an rtek 2.1 as well. Car is undergoing a build and thus hasn't been started yet. I'm still researching and reading on it, to fully understand before using.
The idle afr's change via variable resistor built into the ecu? And not by mapping?
On the fuel map. I believe the charts are RPM on the x-axis, and Boost y-axis. If mapping by chart. So to answer your question yes, in chart format.
Sounds like you need to download the manual, before moving another finger:
www.pocketlogger.com
11-09-09, 11:28 PM
#4
Are you sure your Wideband is plugged into the Barro, pressure sensor thingy? There was a "minor" upgrade that would let you plug it into your Var. Resistor. That way your Altitude, barrometer thingy wil still work.
2. You may have to reset your wideband, under the tuning/ecu settup.
As far as vacuume, of course it does.
C. There is an online instruction manual for it that is VERY informative. Should be in this section, GL
2. You may have to reset your wideband, under the tuning/ecu settup.
As far as vacuume, of course it does.
C. There is an online instruction manual for it that is VERY informative. Should be in this section, GL
11-09-09, 11:30 PM
#5
I'd like to say don't take this post as being 100% sure but just an idea.
I have an rtek 2.1 as well. Car is undergoing a build and thus hasn't been started yet. I'm still researching and reading on it, to fully understand before using.
The idle afr's change via variable resistor built into the ecu? And not by mapping?
I have an rtek 2.1 as well. Car is undergoing a build and thus hasn't been started yet. I'm still researching and reading on it, to fully understand before using.
The idle afr's change via variable resistor built into the ecu? And not by mapping?
11-10-09, 01:08 AM
#6
Rotary Freak
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the wideband is plugged in through the atp input.
I have adjusted the fuel pressure up to 20% on vaccum from 0rpm to around 3k and it still runs lean at like 13-14 afrs somtimes it goes up to 19
I have adjusted the fuel pressure up to 20% on vaccum from 0rpm to around 3k and it still runs lean at like 13-14 afrs somtimes it goes up to 19
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11-11-09, 10:40 PM
#8
plug the Wideband into the Var Res for starters.
then splice the ATP back so it works, thats one less thing.
Have you followed the instructions for setting the idle via the Rtek?
Its like 4 or 5 steps
Make sure car is warm
set idle to 750 (850?)
adjust var res (via the slider on the palm screen)
reset speed if necassary
then splice the ATP back so it works, thats one less thing.
Have you followed the instructions for setting the idle via the Rtek?
Its like 4 or 5 steps
Make sure car is warm
set idle to 750 (850?)
adjust var res (via the slider on the palm screen)
reset speed if necassary
11-22-09, 01:12 PM
#12
HAILERS
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Sounds like the 720's are not 720's OR there is a broken TID at where it mates with the turbo.
Hesistation come with a lean mixture.
I ASSUME this car has no ACV or airpump. IF it does have a working ACV and airpump then that would explain a lean showing on the AFR at idle.
Pull the turbo inlet duct off and look for a crack in the end of the duct where it mates with the turbo.
Also go to the IDLE feature. Don't pay much attention to the first couple of items like right rpm, tps etc. Just make your way to the variable resistor setting and set the slider to the??? say 3.5v and then select DONE and go back to LOG and idle the engine. The mixture should be richer because going to a higher voltage on the variable resistor setting makes the mixute richer.
Anyway, your problem seems more like a air leak in the TID or ??? fuel injector grommets (lower grommets) or??? another air leak somewhere and possible the 720's ain't 720's.
Definetly not enough fuel for the air going into the engine. Sort of like taking a regular good running car and filling up with E85. It'll barely run because it's too lean. Larger injectors solve that. LIke going from 550/550's to 720/720's and leaving the RTEK still at 550/550 injector settings.
Also is this a stock Mazda turbo car or one of those non turbo engines made turbo? That'll make things run lean at lower rpms.
Hesistation come with a lean mixture.
I ASSUME this car has no ACV or airpump. IF it does have a working ACV and airpump then that would explain a lean showing on the AFR at idle.
Pull the turbo inlet duct off and look for a crack in the end of the duct where it mates with the turbo.
Also go to the IDLE feature. Don't pay much attention to the first couple of items like right rpm, tps etc. Just make your way to the variable resistor setting and set the slider to the??? say 3.5v and then select DONE and go back to LOG and idle the engine. The mixture should be richer because going to a higher voltage on the variable resistor setting makes the mixute richer.
Anyway, your problem seems more like a air leak in the TID or ??? fuel injector grommets (lower grommets) or??? another air leak somewhere and possible the 720's ain't 720's.
Definetly not enough fuel for the air going into the engine. Sort of like taking a regular good running car and filling up with E85. It'll barely run because it's too lean. Larger injectors solve that. LIke going from 550/550's to 720/720's and leaving the RTEK still at 550/550 injector settings.
Also is this a stock Mazda turbo car or one of those non turbo engines made turbo? That'll make things run lean at lower rpms.
11-22-09, 01:48 PM
#13
Rotary Freak
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I have 750's in the primary and secondary. I have it listed above.
all emissions are removed.
alright will do this asap once the rain stops.
btw i got the car to idle now. but it idles at 13afr and when i try to give it some throttle like 50% tps it runs to 19 afr
Its a s5 tii engine and turbo with a s4 tii front cover and wiring harness streetported.
thanks for the help man.
Pull the turbo inlet duct off and look for a crack in the end of the duct where it mates with the turbo
Also go to the IDLE feature. Don't pay much attention to the first couple of items like right rpm, tps etc. Just make your way to the variable resistor setting and set the slider to the??? say 3.5v and then select DONE and go back to LOG and idle the engine. The mixture should be richer because going to a higher voltage on the variable resistor setting makes the mixute richer.
Also go to the IDLE feature. Don't pay much attention to the first couple of items like right rpm, tps etc. Just make your way to the variable resistor setting and set the slider to the??? say 3.5v and then select DONE and go back to LOG and idle the engine. The mixture should be richer because going to a higher voltage on the variable resistor setting makes the mixute richer.
btw i got the car to idle now. but it idles at 13afr and when i try to give it some throttle like 50% tps it runs to 19 afr
thanks for the help man.
