Rtek Omg Omg!!! Its Finally Here!!! Rtek 2.0!!!
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 3
From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
There's nothing wrong with the harness or the wiring used, it's just the years and years of heat/etc they've been through and the cracked sheilding, broken connectors, crispy wires that break in half when you look at it/etc.
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,383
Likes: 3
From: Stinson Beach, Ca
ceramic coat, sorry ive been takin some rips ;-)
like HPC is right by where i used to live in phoenix, their hightemp is good but i can get a comparable hightemp for cheaper. Something 1800-2000+ should be perfect overkill.
Thanks scathcart!
What is it lacking after a new engine harness, and does the engine do the injectors too? i think its all real crispy honestly lol, like the ac fan temp sensor on the thermo elbow and the emissions stuff, thats probably all engine though.
I'm looking to ground my boost sensor too, but don't know which wire to strip and link onto. same w/ some other grounding stuff. all i have is to engine block to strut tower bolt to negative terminal which i think is too thin as it is and rather hastilly ghetto fashioned lol.
crimp on ring terminals and i think 12ga wire.
I just started an apprenticeship as an electrician but its all residential and some commercial housing, no auto or high temp stuff. i can hook it up though :-D i can solder, maybe make it nicer. i was looking at some audio high grade battery terminal blocks. maybe redo the negative from battery to body to firewalll or whatever and add some to various parts of engine and chassis?
still confused over how many writeups and different spots and different adive for doing it.
-Ben "Real men don't drive reliable cars" Martin
like HPC is right by where i used to live in phoenix, their hightemp is good but i can get a comparable hightemp for cheaper. Something 1800-2000+ should be perfect overkill.
Thanks scathcart!
What is it lacking after a new engine harness, and does the engine do the injectors too? i think its all real crispy honestly lol, like the ac fan temp sensor on the thermo elbow and the emissions stuff, thats probably all engine though.
I'm looking to ground my boost sensor too, but don't know which wire to strip and link onto. same w/ some other grounding stuff. all i have is to engine block to strut tower bolt to negative terminal which i think is too thin as it is and rather hastilly ghetto fashioned lol.
crimp on ring terminals and i think 12ga wire.
I just started an apprenticeship as an electrician but its all residential and some commercial housing, no auto or high temp stuff. i can hook it up though :-D i can solder, maybe make it nicer. i was looking at some audio high grade battery terminal blocks. maybe redo the negative from battery to body to firewalll or whatever and add some to various parts of engine and chassis?
still confused over how many writeups and different spots and different adive for doing it.
-Ben "Real men don't drive reliable cars" Martin
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 22
From: n
Wtf???
Holy crap!
To all those dumbfucks who are spouting some serious bullshit, you should (and I say this politely) STFU.
How many of you riff-raff actually fucked with a real stand-alone?
Haltech E8...
32 x 32 fuel map
32 x 32 ignition timing map
That's 1024 cells.
100 point fuel maps? Haltech has 10 TIMES more points.
361 ignition map points? Haltech has 3 TIMES more points and has a full independent split trailing map that can do negative split if you want to.
6.4 us (MICROseconds) fuel map resolution
0.1-degree ignition map resolution
Adjustable RPM's up to 16,000RPM
Do you want to shut up now?
Oh, and if you want to bitch about stock sensors, the Haltech E8 has sensor characterization, so you can use your original water temp and air temp sensors.
Ability to control the stock E-OMP is required.
4 dedicated PWM outputs to program to your hearts content.
You can read the rest...
http://www.haltech.com/downloads/E8.pdf
Bitching about a base map?
I just tuned an E8 in a customer's SC FC, and I got it cranking and idling within 30 minutes.
Remember, this is my FIRST E8 I've tuned.
*NO STOCK AFM*
We drove the car around for another 30 minutes or so, and I got the vacuum and highway cruising portions of the map 90% dialed in.
Give me another hour with this bitch, and I'll have all the high load and boost ranges nailed.
I put money this car would smoke any similar set-up with a stock ECU and RTEK 2.0, period.
The owners is VERY happy with the results so far.
-Ted
To all those dumbfucks who are spouting some serious bullshit, you should (and I say this politely) STFU.
How many of you riff-raff actually fucked with a real stand-alone?
Haltech E8...
32 x 32 fuel map
32 x 32 ignition timing map
That's 1024 cells.
100 point fuel maps? Haltech has 10 TIMES more points.
361 ignition map points? Haltech has 3 TIMES more points and has a full independent split trailing map that can do negative split if you want to.
6.4 us (MICROseconds) fuel map resolution
0.1-degree ignition map resolution
Adjustable RPM's up to 16,000RPM
Do you want to shut up now?
Oh, and if you want to bitch about stock sensors, the Haltech E8 has sensor characterization, so you can use your original water temp and air temp sensors.
Ability to control the stock E-OMP is required.
4 dedicated PWM outputs to program to your hearts content.
You can read the rest...
http://www.haltech.com/downloads/E8.pdf
Bitching about a base map?
I just tuned an E8 in a customer's SC FC, and I got it cranking and idling within 30 minutes.
Remember, this is my FIRST E8 I've tuned.
*NO STOCK AFM*
We drove the car around for another 30 minutes or so, and I got the vacuum and highway cruising portions of the map 90% dialed in.
Give me another hour with this bitch, and I'll have all the high load and boost ranges nailed.
I put money this car would smoke any similar set-up with a stock ECU and RTEK 2.0, period.
The owners is VERY happy with the results so far.
-Ted
Originally Posted by RETed
Holy crap!
To all those dumbfucks who are spouting some serious bullshit, you should (and I say this politely) STFU.
How many of you riff-raff actually fucked with a real stand-alone?
Haltech E8...
32 x 32 fuel map
32 x 32 ignition timing map
That's 1024 cells.
100 point fuel maps? Haltech has 10 TIMES more points.
361 ignition map points? Haltech has 3 TIMES more points and has a full independent split trailing map that can do negative split if you want to.
6.4 us (MICROseconds) fuel map resolution
0.1-degree ignition map resolution
Adjustable RPM's up to 16,000RPM
Do you want to shut up now?
Oh, and if you want to bitch about stock sensors, the Haltech E8 has sensor characterization, so you can use your original water temp and air temp sensors.
Ability to control the stock E-OMP is required.
4 dedicated PWM outputs to program to your hearts content.
You can read the rest...
http://www.haltech.com/downloads/E8.pdf
Bitching about a base map?
I just tuned an E8 in a customer's SC FC, and I got it cranking and idling within 30 minutes.
Remember, this is my FIRST E8 I've tuned.
*NO STOCK AFM*
We drove the car around for another 30 minutes or so, and I got the vacuum and highway cruising portions of the map 90% dialed in.
Give me another hour with this bitch, and I'll have all the high load and boost ranges nailed.
I put money this car would smoke any similar set-up with a stock ECU and RTEK 2.0, period.
The owners is VERY happy with the results so far.
-Ted
To all those dumbfucks who are spouting some serious bullshit, you should (and I say this politely) STFU.
How many of you riff-raff actually fucked with a real stand-alone?
Haltech E8...
32 x 32 fuel map
32 x 32 ignition timing map
That's 1024 cells.
100 point fuel maps? Haltech has 10 TIMES more points.
361 ignition map points? Haltech has 3 TIMES more points and has a full independent split trailing map that can do negative split if you want to.
6.4 us (MICROseconds) fuel map resolution
0.1-degree ignition map resolution
Adjustable RPM's up to 16,000RPM
Do you want to shut up now?
Oh, and if you want to bitch about stock sensors, the Haltech E8 has sensor characterization, so you can use your original water temp and air temp sensors.
Ability to control the stock E-OMP is required.
4 dedicated PWM outputs to program to your hearts content.
You can read the rest...
http://www.haltech.com/downloads/E8.pdf
Bitching about a base map?
I just tuned an E8 in a customer's SC FC, and I got it cranking and idling within 30 minutes.
Remember, this is my FIRST E8 I've tuned.
*NO STOCK AFM*
We drove the car around for another 30 minutes or so, and I got the vacuum and highway cruising portions of the map 90% dialed in.
Give me another hour with this bitch, and I'll have all the high load and boost ranges nailed.
I put money this car would smoke any similar set-up with a stock ECU and RTEK 2.0, period.
The owners is VERY happy with the results so far.
-Ted
i never messed with anything like that...you are braver than i sir... im def. not comparing a 2.0 to a full standalone.. but a 2.0 is a hell of alot better than a SAFC II
Damn guys, there is no need to argue which is better, the Rtek or a standalone. THEY EACH HAVE THEIR PLACE.
RETed, thats great that it took you *only* 30 minutes just to get the car to idle.
Some people want the simplicty of plug and play, and don't want to spend that much money on a full standalone.
Yes, some people may have setups that need more than the Rtek has to offer. For those people obviously, the Rtek would be a bad choice. We never claim it can handle every mod level or that it's better than every standalone.
It basically comes down to, these are our features, our 'ease of install', and our price, those are their features, their 'ease [or unease] of install' and their price. Based on what the knowledge, experience, mod level, and available budget of the the person looking to buy, they will be able to make a decision on what to get.
It's not about which one is 'better', it's about which one is right for YOU.
Now, RETed, you are comparing apples and orages. The Haltec has more points because you are creating a raw lookup table. To compare that to our 100 pt *correction* table is not fair, they are two different things. The raw map (in the scope of this conversation) is built in the stock ECU and if you want to be super technical about it, it has more points than the E8 since the stock ECU calculates fuel delivery on the fly....it's not limited to a finite number of lookup points.
Timing, yeah, the Haltec has more points, but 99% of the people using the haltec don't need 32 RPM bands of timing adjustment, not to mention that 25% or more of that map is useless because it's above the max RPM most people use.. The Rtek has full control over the leading and trailing maps and allows you to adjust the splits.
Obviously the stock ECU doesn't have any issues (or additional setup time) with stock sensors.
While we don't have AFM removal, we are working on it so as of right now, you got us there.
And no, I will not STFU.
-Mike Montalvo
digital tuning, inc.
www.pocketlogger.com
RETed, thats great that it took you *only* 30 minutes just to get the car to idle.
Some people want the simplicty of plug and play, and don't want to spend that much money on a full standalone. Yes, some people may have setups that need more than the Rtek has to offer. For those people obviously, the Rtek would be a bad choice. We never claim it can handle every mod level or that it's better than every standalone.
It basically comes down to, these are our features, our 'ease of install', and our price, those are their features, their 'ease [or unease] of install' and their price. Based on what the knowledge, experience, mod level, and available budget of the the person looking to buy, they will be able to make a decision on what to get.
It's not about which one is 'better', it's about which one is right for YOU.
Now, RETed, you are comparing apples and orages. The Haltec has more points because you are creating a raw lookup table. To compare that to our 100 pt *correction* table is not fair, they are two different things. The raw map (in the scope of this conversation) is built in the stock ECU and if you want to be super technical about it, it has more points than the E8 since the stock ECU calculates fuel delivery on the fly....it's not limited to a finite number of lookup points.
Timing, yeah, the Haltec has more points, but 99% of the people using the haltec don't need 32 RPM bands of timing adjustment, not to mention that 25% or more of that map is useless because it's above the max RPM most people use.. The Rtek has full control over the leading and trailing maps and allows you to adjust the splits.
Obviously the stock ECU doesn't have any issues (or additional setup time) with stock sensors.
While we don't have AFM removal, we are working on it so as of right now, you got us there.
And no, I will not STFU.
-Mike Montalvo
digital tuning, inc.
www.pocketlogger.com
Law Breaker
Joined: Oct 2005
Posts: 3,333
Likes: 0
From: S.F. Bay Area, California 510
Originally Posted by turbo2ltr
Damn guys, there is no need to argue which is better, the Rtek or a standalone. THEY EACH HAVE THEIR PLACE.
RETed, thats great that it took you *only* 30 minutes just to get the car to idle. Some people want the simplicty of plug and play, and don't want to spend that much money on a full standalone.
Yes, some people may have setups that need more than the Rtek has to offer. For those people obviously, the Rtek would be a bad choice. We never claim it can handle every mod level or that it's better than every standalone.
It basically comes down to, these are our features, our 'ease of install', and our price, those are their features, their 'ease [or unease] of install' and their price. Based on what the knowledge, experience, mod level, and available budget of the the person looking to buy, they will be able to make a decision on what to get.
It's not about which one is 'better', it's about which one is right for YOU.
Now, RETed, you are comparing apples and orages. The Haltec has more points because you are creating a raw lookup table. To compare that to our 100 pt *correction* table is not fair, they are two different things. The raw map (in the scope of this conversation) is built in the stock ECU and if you want to be super technical about it, it has more points than the E8 since the stock ECU calculates fuel delivery on the fly....it's not limited to a finite number of lookup points.
Timing, yeah, the Haltec has more points, but 99% of the people using the haltec don't need 32 RPM bands of timing adjustment, not to mention that 25% or more of that map is useless because it's above the max RPM most people use.. The Rtek has full control over the leading and trailing maps and allows you to adjust the splits.
Obviously the stock ECU doesn't have any issues (or additional setup time) with stock sensors.
While we don't have AFM removal, we are working on it so as of right now, you got us there.
And no, I will not STFU.
-Mike Montalvo
digital tuning, inc.
www.pocketlogger.com
RETed, thats great that it took you *only* 30 minutes just to get the car to idle.
Some people want the simplicty of plug and play, and don't want to spend that much money on a full standalone. Yes, some people may have setups that need more than the Rtek has to offer. For those people obviously, the Rtek would be a bad choice. We never claim it can handle every mod level or that it's better than every standalone.
It basically comes down to, these are our features, our 'ease of install', and our price, those are their features, their 'ease [or unease] of install' and their price. Based on what the knowledge, experience, mod level, and available budget of the the person looking to buy, they will be able to make a decision on what to get.
It's not about which one is 'better', it's about which one is right for YOU.
Now, RETed, you are comparing apples and orages. The Haltec has more points because you are creating a raw lookup table. To compare that to our 100 pt *correction* table is not fair, they are two different things. The raw map (in the scope of this conversation) is built in the stock ECU and if you want to be super technical about it, it has more points than the E8 since the stock ECU calculates fuel delivery on the fly....it's not limited to a finite number of lookup points.
Timing, yeah, the Haltec has more points, but 99% of the people using the haltec don't need 32 RPM bands of timing adjustment, not to mention that 25% or more of that map is useless because it's above the max RPM most people use.. The Rtek has full control over the leading and trailing maps and allows you to adjust the splits.
Obviously the stock ECU doesn't have any issues (or additional setup time) with stock sensors.
While we don't have AFM removal, we are working on it so as of right now, you got us there.
And no, I will not STFU.
-Mike Montalvo
digital tuning, inc.
www.pocketlogger.com
Laying Down Rotary Law
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,075
Likes: 1
From: central florida
Its Out!!!
they updated there site
with a "add to cart"
WoooHooooo!
Yes I can easily afford a standalone
I had a E6K and now a MicroTech on my Grey TII
But guess what for my Black TII
that I'm not looking to make 500HP
this will suffice!
they updated there site
with a "add to cart"
WoooHooooo!
Yes I can easily afford a standalone
I had a E6K and now a MicroTech on my Grey TII
But guess what for my Black TII
that I'm not looking to make 500HP
this will suffice!
My problem with the stock harness, is my car has ran through alot of owners. Some of the wires have been modified and messed with. I don't know who has been in my harness. That's my reason to get it out.
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 22
From: n
Originally Posted by 88rxn/a
1024 cells...see now that just scares the **** outa me... i never messed with anything like that...you are braver than i sir... im def. not comparing a 2.0 to a full standalone.. but a 2.0 is a hell of alot better than a SAFC II
i never messed with anything like that...you are braver than i sir... im def. not comparing a 2.0 to a full standalone.. but a 2.0 is a hell of alot better than a SAFC IIThe reality of it all is that the engine rarely goes into ~30% of the entire map.
Do you really drive in high boost under 2kRPM?
How about high vacuum at redline?
A knowledgable tuner would know that you would've have to touch ALL those points, so arguing about how many points are available is a fricken waste of time.
If you take Electromotive's design in tuning it's "base fuel map", there is no map!
They use the theory if linear thermosynamics to dictate a "line" that appoximates the base fuel relationship of load versus RPM, so their "base fuel map" is two numbers - offset and slope.
Does this mean the Electromotive sucks?
Not necessarily...
A competent tuner should have no problem drawing a base map within an hour and getting the car to crank and idle.
This is the typical time it takes me to get almost any Haltech going.
-Ted
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 22
From: n
Originally Posted by turbo2ltr
Now, RETed, you are comparing apples and orages.
There were a bunch of people who were claiming how "superior" your product is versus a stand-alone EMS, when the comparison was not a fair one.
Thank you for adding objective data to the thread rather than spewing a lot of myths like those others...
-Ted
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,383
Likes: 3
From: Stinson Beach, Ca
I've changed in the past month or so.
I'm still for rtek 2.0 because I want to keep full emissions except precat and EGR, and port the motor with a hybrid turbo and highflow cat and such.
And look very stock for cali police which i am paranoid about now that i live here. I want it to be able to pass emissions on its own. Those are what my requirements are.
Maybe some 720/850s on the 720/720 map. its like a S-AFC but 20 times better w/ no timing problems
When I move to a real turbo, I'll get a E8 or E6X.
-Ben Martin
I'm still for rtek 2.0 because I want to keep full emissions except precat and EGR, and port the motor with a hybrid turbo and highflow cat and such.
And look very stock for cali police which i am paranoid about now that i live here. I want it to be able to pass emissions on its own. Those are what my requirements are.
Maybe some 720/850s on the 720/720 map. its like a S-AFC but 20 times better w/ no timing problems
When I move to a real turbo, I'll get a E8 or E6X.
-Ben Martin
i like the fact that i can put my ashtray back in and getting rid of the SAFC . i will be able to throw the palm in the glove box. plus it looks easier to go through the features instead of going in and out on the safc... hopin its all right there!!!
. i will be able to throw the palm in the glove box. plus it looks easier to go through the features instead of going in and out on the safc... hopin its all right there!!!
Originally Posted by RETed
Holy crap!
To all those dumbfucks who are spouting some serious bullshit, you should (and I say this politely) STFU.
How many of you riff-raff actually fucked with a real stand-alone?
To all those dumbfucks who are spouting some serious bullshit, you should (and I say this politely) STFU.
How many of you riff-raff actually fucked with a real stand-alone?
Originally Posted by RETed
Haltech E8...
32 x 32 fuel map
32 x 32 ignition timing map
That's 1024 cells.
100 point fuel maps? Haltech has 10 TIMES more points.
361 ignition map points? Haltech has 3 TIMES more points and has a full independent split trailing map that can do negative split if you want to.
6.4 us (MICROseconds) fuel map resolution
0.1-degree ignition map resolution
Adjustable RPM's up to 16,000RPM
Originally Posted by RETed
Do you want to shut up now?
Originally Posted by RETed
Bitching about a base map?
I just tuned an E8 in a customer's SC FC, and I got it cranking and idling within 30 minutes.
Remember, this is my FIRST E8 I've tuned.
*NO STOCK AFM*
We drove the car around for another 30 minutes or so, and I got the vacuum and highway cruising portions of the map 90% dialed in.
Give me another hour with this bitch, and I'll have all the high load and boost ranges nailed.
I just tuned an E8 in a customer's SC FC, and I got it cranking and idling within 30 minutes.
Remember, this is my FIRST E8 I've tuned.
*NO STOCK AFM*
We drove the car around for another 30 minutes or so, and I got the vacuum and highway cruising portions of the map 90% dialed in.
Give me another hour with this bitch, and I'll have all the high load and boost ranges nailed.
Originally Posted by RETed
I put money this car would smoke any similar set-up with a stock ECU and RTEK 2.0, period.
The owners is VERY happy with the results so far.
-Ted
The owners is VERY happy with the results so far.
-Ted
You pointed out that the owner is very happy with the results. Thats great, and really all that matters. The owner has a specific hp goal and it was meet. There are plenty of owners that have specific HP goals that were once only attainable by a standalone. Now with the new RTEK7 capabilities, there are owners that can acheive their goals using less funds, less time, and less hassle.
Don't get me wrong here, for a 500+ hp goal, and standalone is the only option at the time. But for folks looking for ~300, this is a great product, that is easy to work with, requires hardly any install, and saves plenty of time.
FWIW, you personally should take a step back and see what some very determined guys in Houston have done with their stock programable ecu's. I'm sure you will find the results of these little Hondas very impressive, for stock ecu's. 577hp is no laughing matter, especially when it is daily driven, stock programable ecu, and the system cost right around $650.
With coming time, the RTEK7 folks will continue to raise the limit of the stock ecu.
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 10,630
Likes: 3
From: NY, MA, MI, OR, TX, and now LA or AZ!
Originally Posted by bigdv519
FWIW, you personally should take a step back and see what some very determined guys in Houston have done with their stock programable ecu's. I'm sure you will find the results of these little Hondas very impressive, for stock ecu's. 577hp is no laughing matter, especially when it is daily driven, stock programable ecu, and the system cost right around $650.
MegaSquirt Mod
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 4,721
Likes: 1
From: Maryland
Originally Posted by scathcart
Whats wrong with yours that it needs replacing?
OEM... I paid $870.xxCDN a couple years ago for an S5 TII. Last I checked, they were the same price. This was for the main engine harness.
Building a good harness isn't hard, by any means, but it takes a LOT of time, and you need to use some really good wire, shield the appropriate conductors, use the right tools, and then focus on shielding as much heat as possible away from the harness, and perhaps look at rerouting the harness.
What this means is no walmart, autozone, pep boys wire.
Solder AND crimp all connections, and heat shrink these points.
No electrical tape.
No wires in tension.
Ground one side only of wire shielding.
Provide mechanical protection for abrasion, and secure to vehicle.
I would try to source your wire locally... talk to some of the local aviation guys.
Failing that... Aircraft spruce has decent wire.
The whole point I'm trying to make is that the stock wire is good stuff... anyone who has tested it can tell you that, and replacing it with cheapo walmart wire is NOT an upgrade.
I've put 1200 volts through the stock wires to test the insulation... Its definitely higher quality stuff.
OEM... I paid $870.xxCDN a couple years ago for an S5 TII. Last I checked, they were the same price. This was for the main engine harness.
Building a good harness isn't hard, by any means, but it takes a LOT of time, and you need to use some really good wire, shield the appropriate conductors, use the right tools, and then focus on shielding as much heat as possible away from the harness, and perhaps look at rerouting the harness.
What this means is no walmart, autozone, pep boys wire.
Solder AND crimp all connections, and heat shrink these points.
No electrical tape.
No wires in tension.
Ground one side only of wire shielding.
Provide mechanical protection for abrasion, and secure to vehicle.
I would try to source your wire locally... talk to some of the local aviation guys.
Failing that... Aircraft spruce has decent wire.
The whole point I'm trying to make is that the stock wire is good stuff... anyone who has tested it can tell you that, and replacing it with cheapo walmart wire is NOT an upgrade.
I've put 1200 volts through the stock wires to test the insulation... Its definitely higher quality stuff.
For the record, on eage8's car, and on tofuball's car, we used some pretty high-quality wire:
http://www.rs-autosport.com/
Who specialize in megasquirt-specific wiring/options. Tofuball and I built his harness using shielded wire for the CAS (grounded at the MS on one end), with sufficient slack on all the wires. We soldered everything and used heatshrink for insulation, and then we used heat-resistant harness tape to cover the whole thing. The end result was pretty nice.
Tofuball and eage8 did basically the same thing for his harness, so while a lot of people use crappy wire for their harnesses, we used some pretty good wire, and did a pretty good job of rebuilding.
Ken
Lives on the Forum
Joined: Feb 2001
Posts: 26,664
Likes: 22
From: n
Originally Posted by bigdv519
You should, and I say this politely, act a little more mature.
This always seems to pop up with every new "budget" priced electronics in the same category, and I've blasted all of them...why? Cause people are claiming it's "better" than a stand-alone.
Look at all the GReddy eManage users?
Where are they now?
At least the MS folks got something rolling, but it has been at least a year since it first debuted and support is still lacking?
Now you have this new toy, and people are claiming how much better it is?
Oh puhlease...
Thats all fine and dandy, but well out of the price range of many people. ]Also, there are folks that don't need such levels of precision control for their power expectations.
You don't need such precision so why bother?
"You need to pay to play..."
Nope.
"The RTEK7 2.0 comes set to the factory timing and fuel maps. With the MS, you kinda really are starting from scratch, and that is why the MS losses points, for me atleast. The 2.0's install and setup are extremely simple...just 3 plugs, and the car runs. Also, no one needs a dyno to dial in anything, just a wideband."
So tell me...how do you tune the ignition timing with "just a wideband"?
"You spend 30 minutes trying to find a basemap for a specific injector combination, and I'll click 2 buttons and have a real map set instantly."
And the Haltech can do percentage adjustments in a few keystrokes just as quickly...any basically adjust to almost any combination of fuel injectors you throw at it.
Surely, you're not trying to imply the "basemap" you just adjust by clicking "2 buttons" is going to be optimally tuned for best and safest power?
No you didn't get it cranking and idling in 30 minutes. Wheres the install time??? Again the price of the system and the complexity, is where the RTEK7 2.0 is advantageous.
Period??? It might smoke a similiar setup, but it might not.
I guess you forgot about the part about NO AFM, huh.
FWIW, you personally should take a step back and see what some very determined guys in Houston have done with their stock programable ecu's. I'm sure you will find the results of these little Hondas very impressive, for stock ecu's. 577hp is no laughing matter, especially when it is daily driven, stock programable ecu, and the system cost right around $650.
With coming time, the RTEK7 folks will continue to raise the limit of the stock ecu.
Sure, I not doubting that.
Does that limit get close to what a competent stand-alone EMS can do?
I highly doubt that...
-Ted
Laying Down Rotary Law
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 2,075
Likes: 1
From: central florida
FYI Ted has invested reason to spout ill will towards anything that is not Haltech
He makes his living tuning the POS Haltech system
so of course he is going to have a bias opinion
MicroTech was barley a blip on the screen a few years ago
and now has grabed a huge chuck of haltech market share..HAHA
He makes his living tuning the POS Haltech system
so of course he is going to have a bias opinion
MicroTech was barley a blip on the screen a few years ago
and now has grabed a huge chuck of haltech market share..HAHA
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 3,383
Likes: 3
From: Stinson Beach, Ca
jdmrbust, looks like it would be like adding bigger secondaries with an s-afc by just calculating the % changes and jacking it that much up from when your secodnaries come on. itd be easier with injectors close to the 720s that it can handle like stock, less injector to tune down where a real standalone would do it no prob with any size secondary.
ive seen it done w/ 1600s on a stock ecu w/ FCD and a SAFC, was still super rich, but 1600s are huge injectors.
dunno if thats enough injector for what you want, just saying on how it should work. never used rtek so thats just in theory.
but the secondaries and primaries are staged, i think they go to half pulse to split it between the four injectors, not positive on how you calculate it exactly
ive seen it done w/ 1600s on a stock ecu w/ FCD and a SAFC, was still super rich, but 1600s are huge injectors.
dunno if thats enough injector for what you want, just saying on how it should work. never used rtek so thats just in theory.
but the secondaries and primaries are staged, i think they go to half pulse to split it between the four injectors, not positive on how you calculate it exactly