bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

You spend 30 minutes trying to find a basemap for a specific injector combination, and I'll click 2 buttons and have a real map set instantly.

EDIT:

Carzy Driver

The 2.0 is very nice and detailed at a reasonable price, but it still sucks that I need a AFM.

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

It does still suck, but they have plans to remove it. Hopefully they'll come out with the S5 RTEK7 2.0 and the stock vain AFM removal at the same time.

Turbo II-FB

so I cant use a 1.7 with the 550cc and use a my f-con to kick up the duty cycle on them. Aslo would i be safe If I never went over 3.8k rpms. when they kick in

Carzy Driver

yeah, I sent an email to there support team to see if my Dell Axim X50 pda is compatible or not with a side question about afm removal. got an email back from their sales department saying that they have plans for afm removal but won't be available til the near future, when that is I don't know but can't wait!

Carzy Driver

just get some 720's instead of making things difficult.

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

I was expecting a little more, such as some aux outputs (for efan control/two stage/etc), as well as a little more direct control over injector pulsewidth rather than a % change over preset configurations. It makes it easier for people to adjust this way though, just a little limiting in some aspects.

Rex4Life

I think 2.0 looks pretty nice--they sure put alot of good work into it!

Only gripe I see is the staging transition appears to be going the wrong way. I've been testing various rpm settings on my Megasquirt and it seems like the higher rpms are better for removing hesitation--reason being that the hesitation is a by product of airflow rate in the secondaries. If you don't have sufficient airflow, the engine will hesitate. On Megasquirt we are setting the transition based on rpm AND map. Lower rpm's will generally translate into more hesitation--I saw this also on my Rtek 1.7.

Bottom line, if you need more fuel on the low end, get bigger primaries and leave the transition point at 3800 rpm.

For me though, I love the Megasquirt features--even more when I get my $35 electronic boost control solenoid wired in

kabooski

A) you MS guys posting here build your own boards etc
not everyone has a electrical degree or work in that field of some sort
to add resisitors etc Like you have Rex.......

B) I don't see ANY of you offering a rotary specific/2nd gen MS

scathcart

Have you ever held a brand new OEM harness in your hands?
Have you ever megged out a new harness, or even an old one?
Have you ever resistance tested a new or used harness?
I didn't think so.

You guys really are fooling yourselves thinking that the mazda harnesses are crap.
Unless you guys building these custom harnesses are sourcing your wire from an aircraft supplier or the like, I severely doubt you're going to be exceeding the insulation/conductor quality of the oem wire. Like EVERY "custom" wiring harness I have ever seen built, I would put money down that you're using standard CSA 300 degree wire... available at any Walmart . If you guys truly think this wire is superior to stock just b/c it is new... well, wait and see what its like after a few heat cycles in the engine bay.

So I pose this question again:
What exactly is wrong with the stock harness? What changes would you make to improve it?
If you can't answer this question, you don't know what you're talking about.

You can do this with the stock harness just as easily.

scathcart

A)There are very simple, detailed instruction on how to build a working MS.
Your statement makes about as much sense as, "You guys that work on your own cars, etc: not everyone has a journeyman's mechanic ticket or work on cars all day".

B)MuyThaiboxer [sp?] on this forum offers plug n play MS's for the second gen. Try searching so you don't look so ignorant next time; there is a thread in the MS forum very appropriately titled:
"Plug n' play" MS's now available!

Rex4Life

It's really not that hard, but yea you need to know how to read schematics and follow instructions. I had never done anything like it before. To me the tuning is the hard part.

The mod over in the MS forum in rx7club, Muythaibxr IS selling plug and play units. Megasquirt is just hitting critical mass for the rotary 2nd gen cars.

I'm running full fuel and spark using ALL the stock sensors/ignition system--all on the stock harness. Best of all--when I decide to build a new CAI I can remove the AFM

p.s. Scathcart--you're right, the stock harness isn't that bad--as long as it hasn't been corroded or severely cooked.

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

ive been eyeing this rtek not really knowing about the MS..im gonna check it out but still leaning to this....i kinda like the fact tthat i dont need a laptop that i can keep the palm in the glove box for god knows whatever reason. i trust my harness because the car has 46,000 miles on it so its not like it has been through hell. the ex owner took great care of my 7.....except for the dirty engine bay

bigdv519

iTrader: (3)

I would add to kabooski's comment that A) Many folks really don't care to "build" their own ecu, nor would they have the time. B) Many folks don't trust themselves enough to build their own system. C) If there is a problem with MS, I supposed I would have to do the usual search, then begin eliminating possible causes, then diagnos the problem, and test, and replace the faulty part/connection...basically spend a more time getting it to run/operate correctly. With RTEK7, I have a 1 year warranty. And that is plenty easier for many people.

Node

iTrader: (1)

how easy is it to get a good replacement, how much is OEM? I've heard of S5 harnesses at like $600 or so but I might be thinking of wrong number. didn't seem super absurd, thats only main harness, there are others, not sure how many.

scathcart, please inform me what is needed for a good harness, s4 in particular.
-Ben Martin

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

A) They don't have to.
B) They don't need to.
C) How is that any different than the rtek? You can buy plug n pray MS setups (and harnesses) that have warranties and so forth as well.

Node

iTrader: (1)

plus rtek 7 has some awesome datalogging and error codes in text! super easy diagnosing

88rxn/a

iTrader: (6)

it just seems easier for the "not so expierienced"
i have little knowledge of tuning..
<<<noob...
im looking for somthin that isnt gonna be to difficult and i can learn from..

Node

iTrader: (1)

88rxn/a: me too, me too

Carzy Driver

Same here

SonicRaT

iTrader: (6)

buncha n00bs

scathcart

Whats wrong with yours that it needs replacing?
OEM... I paid $870.xxCDN a couple years ago for an S5 TII. Last I checked, they were the same price. This was for the main engine harness.

Building a good harness isn't hard, by any means, but it takes a LOT of time, and you need to use some really good wire, shield the appropriate conductors, use the right tools, and then focus on shielding as much heat as possible away from the harness, and perhaps look at rerouting the harness.

What this means is no walmart, autozone, pep boys wire.
Solder AND crimp all connections, and heat shrink these points.
No electrical tape.
No wires in tension.
Ground one side only of wire shielding.
Provide mechanical protection for abrasion, and secure to vehicle.

I would try to source your wire locally... talk to some of the local aviation guys.
Failing that... Aircraft spruce has decent wire.


The whole point I'm trying to make is that the stock wire is good stuff... anyone who has tested it can tell you that, and replacing it with cheapo walmart wire is NOT an upgrade.
I've put 1200 volts through the stock wires to test the insulation... Its definitely higher quality stuff.

Carzy Driver

Just to tuning. Would like to learn how to, but the locals I've been to are straight up assh@les.

Node

iTrader: (1)

its very crispy, my car was bone stock until i got it last year, so precat, leaky non functional abs, lotsa heat. Some of the wires are so crisp that they break when you try to take it off, im sure thats no guddha.

I am planning to powdercoat my turbo, turbo mani and DP for heat management in the enginebay and hopefully some performance sideeffects too. Maybe my intake manifolds also.
I have a HKS TMIC so I want to help w/ heat all i can.

How old would one from mazda be? still in NOS brand new shape? is main harness only one in engine bay? what others, dash harness should be fine, less heat id assume...

I hope they even have s4 harnesses still

scathcart

Powdercoating the DP? I'm not awqare of any powder that will withstand rotary temperature exhausts. As far as I know, only ceramics can withstand the temp. Care to fill me in?

Anyhoo...
The harness from Mazda will be brand new, never installed. It will be in perfect condition.
The Main harness is on the driver's side of the engine bay.
The engine harness is the one most people replace, since it sits above the turbocharger. Its mostly on the right (driver's) side of the engine bay.
Last I checked, they still had S4 engine harnesses.
After you get a quote from the dealer, PM me, and I'll see if I can get a better price.