ok so... before upgrading i was running stock fd fuel pump and stock everything with 550/720 injectors no PD and no aftermarket FPD


i re-wired the fuel pump. n/a chassy so i didnt have to do the whole relay re-wire. just direct relay from battery to fuel pump. everything ran great. i was running more rich and stronger pulls. awesome

so i removed my fuel rails. put in a PD on primary fuel rail, put on an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator and found a vaccume leak and fixed it....


when i turned on the car the idle was at 1,300

i tried lowering the idle stop screw, which i had set almost all the way down to raise idle to about 800-1100. but apparently now this was to much. i went to lower the idles stop screw and its stuck... pretty much gunked up and imposible to change cuz the flat head top screw is ready to break....


my question is. why did my idle change so drasticly with these changes. the fuel pressure is set to 38, tested by jumping the yellow clip in the engine bay. and also confermed at idle.

map sensor is reading 15(vaccume) and when revved up and let go map reads about 20.

idle is 1300 and i can not lower it threw the idle stop screw, throtle cable is loose, not able to contribue to issue..




my questions:

why did my idle change

what can i do to change it back

 

check your throttle cable to see if its binding. also check to see if the tension on the cruise cable is too tight.

 

well i was able to figure it out, i loosened the throtle cable to where it wasnt touching the throtle at all. pretty much took it off. and then i used the idle stop screw, i then used the idle set up tab and was able to adjust everything acordingly. not sure how EVERYTHING got out of adjustment, but i fine tuned it to idle smooth at 850rpm.



but now i have a new problem. my map sensor reads 12 on idle, and i cant accelorate WOT past 2,800 rpm in 4th or 5th gear or even 3rd gear, i tried and it back fired alot , afr were up and down not solid lean or solid rich.

1st and 2nd i could accelorate wot but not 3-5th. psi never reached above 2psi.


im thinking.... vac leak/boost leak, temp sensor, tps, injector clip, pinched fuel line, ect.....


ALSO!!! im pissed. my rtek kept acting up last night. the palm kept not wanting to connect and kept freezing...

 

search through the 2nd gen section about pressure testing for vacuum/boost leaks

also, there is an idle set procedure you can follow in the Rtek to adjust idle mixture and bypass air (if you still have the BAC valve)

 

The lastest software is always available at www.digitaltuning.com/software/rtek.zip. Try deleting it off your Palm, hotsync once, then install again.

 

I can't be temp sensor or TPS, because I've driven my car with both unhooked when I was checking something, and it didn't make any difference, car drove perfect except at idle (TPS), even when floored. Also, if it was a pinched fuel line, you should lean out under WOT.

 

lol.. thats your car buddy

i adjusted my tps blindly when i was angry at the idle... then i re-adjusted it when i went threw the idle tab on the rtek. so mine could very well be tps related, though i doubt it because its not in 1st and 2nd gear.


i found that my break booster vaccume line was cracked. when removing the UIM i definantly did yank on that prety hard to remove it... this could have been my issue along side one of my fuel lines were pinched between the 2ndary rail and the UIM. i re-routed the line so it had no obstruction.

lastly i re-did some of my vaccume lines, and put on vinyl caps instead of rubber...

i also checked all the grounds and all the clips to make sure everything was snug and undamaged from being old and worked with.

i'm about to go out and try to start it up

 

hmmm, maybe it's an s5 thing... so I guess don't listen to me unless you have an s5 lol. Well, good luck with your problem there.