13b-series

iTrader: (1)

I've recieved two boost sensors in the last month an neither work(I have'nt had a chance to test the second yet). I have checked electrical connections between the sensor, ecu and the boost gauge an every thing checked fine. My question is how much/little of signal does the ecu need to see to throw a code? Because I have disconnected the vac. line from the gauge and the sensor still reads 19-20inhg, unpluged the sensor altogether an still the same reading(with the vehicle running).

HAILERS

If you pull the PLUG off the sensor, then the Palm should read approx 15.8, a default figure for the ECU. At least that is the figure I see when the PLUG is pulled from the boost sensor. I've seen that figure stated on other threads also, or close to it.

It'll also kick a fault on the Palm when you do that...pull the plug off the sensor.

If you pull the vacuum line off the sensor (plug left on the sensor) with the engine running or not running, it'll read close to zero on the Palm.

What's the number on your boost/pressure sensor?

Is this a stock TurboII or a ????????

You need to take a digital meter to pin 2B and backprobe that wire at 2B and see what the voltage is.

13b-series

iTrader: (1)

Here's a link to the other one I was asking questions in, BTW I'm also killerb on the other forum.
http://forum.teamfc3s.org/showthread...ensor+fail....

13b-series

iTrader: (1)

It's never kicked a code an it does'nt even try/want to read zero on the palm. They're 318's.

HAILERS

If you disconnect the electrical plug and it does not show a fault.....................Maye contact Digital Tuning.

Have you ever backprobed the 2B wire at the ECU with the plug on the ECU and seen what the voltage is there? That would help.

Is this a conversion car? Like n/a to turbo?

13b-series

iTrader: (1)

I was tossing that idea around with one of my friends. The gauge worked when it was in the car, but the ecu(after dti worked it over) set on the shelf until I was done with the truck an once instsalled it's never worked.

I may have to try that.

87 tII straight into a 87 b2200

13b-series

iTrader: (1)

Well I recieved another sensor today and I get the same .7 volts out of the sensor. What else could be causing problems on this circut ?

HAILERS

Send me the sensors and I'll tell you if they're any good.

Is the ground wire on the boost sensor plug actually any good?????? Like remove the plug, put the meter on ohms and it reads???? When you check out the black wire (might be brown/black).

Black .....gnd, less than an ohm.

Black/White.......batt voltage

Brown/red.......output voltage

Brown/white.......5vdc ref voltage

13b-series

iTrader: (1)

The first two sensors got sent back to the fella I bought them from off eBay. The ground is good, and I just found out something is wrong with my gauge as well. The four contacts on the back of the cluster ign. 12v, gnd, boost gnd and the boost + which is the same as what I get at the sensor an ecu (.7v). Is there any way to test the gauge, or just replace it? And could this be causing problems with the sensor, like back feed or something?

HAILERS

I'd disconnect the wiring at the gauge and then read the voltage at the pin 2B of the ECU with the plug on the ECU. Or read the PALM and see if things changed.

The brown/red output wire of the boost sensor leaves the sensor.........splits off in two directions. One path goes directly to the pin 2B of the ECU. The other path travels thru one of the ORANGE plugs of the EM harness and travels thru the Front harness and ends up at the boost gauge. This is the sort of thing where I'd just depin that wire from the Front harness(ORANGE PLUG) and cap it off and see what the ECU is now reading.

As you can see in the two jpgs attached, the BR/R wire leaves the sensor and splits off. It goes thru a plug named FEM-01 (means Front to Emissions harness connector). It enters the Front harness as a L/W wire or blue/white wire. I'm suggesting you find that ORNAGE fifteen pin/socket plug, and depin the BR/R wire from that plug and tape it over so it won't short out. Then reconnect everything and turn the key to ON. The Palm should read right now or you can backprobe the pin 2B on the ECU and see what the voltage is now.

That should eliminate any *problems* in the front harness/gauge and let the Palm and ECU read right. IF the pin 2B/Palm don't read right after that..............pull the plug off the ECU and off the boost sensor and ohm out the BR/R wire first to ground (should be open) and then from end to end of that BR/R wire (should be under a ohm).

Don't know what else to say. Other than.........is this wiring all turbo wiring?? or part non turbo and part turbo wiring? Like you had a non turbo car and put a Turbo EM harness on the engine?

The ORANGE plug is one of two ORANGE plugs just above and to the right of the passensgers feet. They are a part of the harness that attaches to the engine (emissions harness EM).

13b-series

iTrader: (1)

Well still nothing different, with the gauge disconnected map reads 6.5-6.8 with 3.9 inHg on the sensor. Now depining the br/r off the 15 pin plug it still reads the same, 2b still shows 1.7v with the br/r wire depined (this is the same at the sensor). Now as for resistence from boost - 2b is 1.4 ohm and boost - fem br/r .3 .6 ohm