Changes are made to and stored directly to the ECU and don't rely on the Palm being connected

 

one question.. when you say "start rich and work to stoich.." do i maximize the fuel to the max in all rpms and map??? then work it down to 11.1 afr??? i got it started today and adjusted the fuel to 11.8 in idle so before i go out driving, i want to hear some advice on if i should max out the fuel correction in all maps

 

I would say, "Yes." Not all rpm's/psi's but pretty much any cells under boost (don't worry about 1024 @ 16psi because that condition will never happen).

Your timing map must be inputted before you drive/log, just because you put the ecu in map timing mode doesn't mean its 'ready to go'.

Think about your setup (turbo, porting, fuel) and make safe thoughout decisions based upon how far you deviated from the stock setup and decide what 'should' work with your modified engine. Tune... I would say that rich is better than lean. For timing, 15 degrees advance at 15 psi of boost is what most suggest and advance before and after peak torque. Fuel And timing maps should have smooth transitions between cells also.

Good luck and as previously stated in this thread start doing pulls in second gear before doing third gear pulls, and keep fourth gear to dyno or track or very secluded empty straight highways.
For the first few times your going to want to barely step on the gas and barely get into boost to see where you are starting. Then progress. More throttle, more boost, more logs, more tuning. Repeat until you are happy and can run it to redline.

Have fun, and since your doing your own tuning I suggest you be very careful, cause if it blows up because you poked the wrong button on your palm its no ones fault but your own.

I'm not a professional tuner and consider myself a beginner.

Update: Profec-b Boost controller installed. Fuel Pump to be rewired tonight and hopefully firing it back up this weekend. Then start tuning for 14psi, when weather permitting.

 

In my case peak torque was at about 5700-5800 on stock ports.

 

That hiccup was more than likely a result of still being so rich .id keep pulling till u see some kind of movement in your afr

 

WTF?

 

Well, some got some **** done.



https://www.rx7club.com/nw-rx-7-forum-33/name-fuel-pressure-issue-870743/

Boost controller and gauges and fuel pump rewire done. Fuel pump sounds louder. Fuel Pressure went up. No more weird ****. Fuel pressure responds to throttle inputs faster. Running RICH now though... Stay tuned for more tuning/cruising vids...

 

thanks man, ya, i uploaded these timing maps i got from a search, i compared them to the ones someone posted earlier here on your thread and they looked almost identical, but im going to double check on that peak torque range tho.. it should be the same as i got stock ports.. i drove it today! and in 1st gear i went into light boost lol AND I LOVE MY ATMOSPHERIC DUMP PIPE! HAHA its such a screamer!! it was pretty orgasmic ha haha ya, i noticed my afrs were up in the 14s tho! on light throttle in 1st gear sometimes up to 3500-4500 rpms, what afrs should i shoot for, i found a thread saying 14-15 in vaccum, 12-13 in as you go up into light boost then 11.1 at full boost, what do you think?.. i logged everything but i need a comp with a 32-bit processor bcus my usb-to-serial adapter is not compatible with my 64bit.. im trying to hotsync it to my macbook??? altho i currently dnt know if pocket logger has the log viewing software for mac... i dunno, ima do some research and hopefully figure something out
yo nick, a million thanks man, you've helped me out a lot
-clever
ps your car is super clean dude, i love all that carbon fiber

 

Yea, don't know about using a MAC (ew) but I think your right about the AFRs.

Good, have fun with it! But don't get too boost crazy... Get some vids and post em! No cell phone vids though...

 

lol, ya no cell phone vids, here is a run right before i went with 2.1 and turbo swap:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eGQ_vdk_V0
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k2jjHbYLpfc

 

Ok, so today I have ran a few logs, and few pulls. But, Now that I've installed the Boost controller, with it turned off, I'm seeing boost up around 10 psi. Has anyone experienced with the addition of an electronic boost controller causes boost to go up a few psi's? I really want the low boost to be around 10 so it is ok. But shouldn't the boost be what I had before??

In the near future will be turning it up to ~12 and see what happens, then turn it up to around ~14 and see how she does.

Fuel pressure has been lowered back to stock ~37psi Idle and this has cleared up the 10afrs cruising and light throttle.

The boost sure does seem to come on faster. Working on 11.5:1 afrs in boost... a few clicks at a time.

I will watch the vids tonight, I can't see youtube at work.

 

Nice Vids! Looks like fun!

 

holy crap thank you for the good information ive been reading all of this! i need to get my 2.1 coming

 

Went and did a few logs this weekend, still seeing 10afrs around 4300-4900 around 6-8 psi, but I'm seeing boost creeping to 11 in third, damn creep, but it does pull good on top tho. But It didn't used to creep this much w/o the boost controller. Even with it turned off, it still hits 10-11 psi? I might try changing the dip switches on the controller and see if I get better results with boost control. Once I get the 10-11 psi tuned in I'll try and raise it to 14...

Will get the camera mount back on and post more vids like next week. Or when the weather cooperates...

 

exactly which EBC are you using? The Profec Spec II ? Older Profec B?

 

Its just a profec b. old one. I had the balance set to mild and boost response was faster, but spiking to 10-11, but with it set sharp, response seemed slower, so I just set it to the middle, and it seems ok. Both Low/High settings the ***** are at zero still.

I have the dip switches in the back set to internal wg or whatever.

OK, I need to change the dip switches, on page 11 it says (if overboost occurs) and has a different dip switch configuration. Going to try that. Damn, should have re-read the instructions earlier. Thanks!

Profec B spec Instructions
http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/687.pdf

If anyone needs, or can't find...
Profec B Spec-II Instructions
http://www.greddy.com/img/PHP/products/pdf/682.pdf

 

Ok, so I'm still freaking way too rich, I'm not sure if it can handle the 1000's as 550's.

Anywho, seeing Solareon and Sandbaggers sweet pdb files I will share mine.

Notice the rich cruise and rich third gear pull.... grrrr...

 

You could try changing the rpm where your secondaries come on, to lean out your afrs a little.

At your transition point your primaries are only at 60%

It's strange that at the top your afrs change so drastically from 10 to 12 to 10. Do you have any peaks in your fuel map?

 

im having a little trouble tuning my 1600cc secondaries myself.... do you guys think they can be handled by the rtek as 750/750 preset???? i have 750/1600cc s

 

If I am currently running a 550x550 setting on the RTEK and I'm running 680x1000cc injectors and I change the setting to 550x720 setting would I be safe if I increase nearly the entire (+psi) map by 30%. Or should I run the 720x720 setting and increase all values by 60%ish? (possible???)

I'm just not sure what I should try. My problem is that when secondaries come on its pig rich, but if I remove a bunch of fuel under vac I get lean issues, but if I don't remove the fuel it runs freaking rich(but ok sometimes)... Anyone have any suggestions. I think I'm going to try 720x720 and start over with the fuel maps...

 

Nick thats how i was runnin it and it worked great no transition stumble at all

 

Ahh the "injectors are too far apart" problem.

I would run the 550x720 setting as that would get the injectors flowing more equally at the transition. Then just add fuel in boost if needed. Thought I suspect running those injectors on the 550x550 setting, most of your current map is negative, so you'd just make boost less negative.

 

Wow, quick replies! Thanks Guys! Going to try 550x720 setting and lower fuel pressure at IDLE to ~30psi and increase all values slightly and all boost a little more than slightly.

 

OK, Not going to do that unless I HAVE to. I tried switching to 550x720, and increased the fuel some in the upper ranges. I just wasn't comfortable boosting and didn't feel like doing all the fuel correction adjustments necessary to actually be able to lay on it... call me lazy.

So I actually tried the 720x720 too and it immediately started idling leaner. Now I thought I might have to up the entire range, and really should just start from scratch. Not going to do that either.

I did *save* my map before screwing with it but I tried to 'load' my map it kept crashing 45% and at like 85% saying 'the connection changed' or something. I would lock up and just sit there. I went to the timing settings and reset the ecu back to stock and tried again. Same ****.

I had to load the file like 3 or 4 times before it would actually make it to 100% and I think its all there. But the boost based timing had to be re'checked' and my starting map was at 0 across the board??. then once I tried loading it before (in the parking lot down the road) and the thing loaded to 120%???

Lesson for the day: Always *SAVE* your maps.

I'm back to my previous settings (550x550) and trying to turn up the boost and lean it out(greater than 10 afrs). It is getting better, will post a Log later this week.

I'll see how good I can, get it, in the next few days; Weather's suppose to be nice...

 

Ok, so I've been trying and trying to get this thing running right, but its just not working as well as I think it should.

First, AFR's at Idle are 11-12 and correction is full minus, and idle correction(var res) is at 0.

Second, with correction in vac and low rpm at full minus I get weird hesitation/leanness when rolling onto the throttle cruising.

I think these are seriously affecting gas consumption. I went through 1/2 tank driving 30 min each way to work for two days... I had my foot in it but woah.

These are really my only problems, starting to annoy me.

My Question is: Can I change my settings to 720X720 and revise my current map using a little math.

If I have it set at 550x550 currently and change to 720X720 can I update accordingly. 720:550(130%) but in boost or when secondaries are online its (130% x 2(additional 60%)) basically since the correction is at 100% I only need to add in the additional 30%, but under boost it would be 60%?

Lets say my fuel setting is -25% in vacuum my new setting should be (25 x 0.3 = 7.5, then -7.5 from 25 = 17.5) -17.5 thus adding in 30%. ??? Maybe not ???

Or is it (25 x 1.3 = 32.5 - 25 = 7.5) -7.5 I'm thinking this is correct so (7.5/25= 0.3 or 30%)

I'm going to work this out on paper and see if I did it right...

I did notice that when I set it to 720X720 the idle immediately went to ~13 Afrs. I just dont' want to have to start at 0 again... Just takes so much time and patience.