My Idle is a little high at around 1000rpms (low oil pressure from jetting shaft) AFR's are around 12.5-13.2ish No air pump. vacuum at idle around -18in/hg or so (not sure exactly). Basically you want to go as lean as possible where it idles good. Good luck.

On another note, Going to raise fuel pressure 10psi (40psi at idle) after this winter and try to run higher boost. Now My higher boost is about 12-13 and I'm seeing 12.5 afrs in the upper range with the fuel correction maxed, but my injectors only at like 70%DC. AFM only reads a max of 715. Might try and replace the AIT sensor and see if that changes anything too.

 

my idle A/f ratio at 900rpm is 13-13.5. but as Nick said, try to lean it out without the engine stumbling. Mines is without airpump, as for vacuum, a good condition engine should idle above 16inHG, my compression in my engine is 90 front rotor, 85-80 rear rotor, and at idle its at 12inhg warmed up. A ported engine will have low vacuum around 10-15inhg

 

appreciate the response to my A/F, vacumm question. If anyone has a thread link on how to set my RPM higher, please post.

Re: maxing the AFM, would increasing the spring tension in the AFM's flapper be a solution? Not sure if it can be done but I've heard of that being done many moons ago. Also, I've seen AFM moved to the cool side of the IC. So pressurized air now acting on the flapper. If I did something like this, I would build an enclosure for the AFM so it would be entirely pressurized. I know, a stand alone or a supplemental injection is likely a better option.

 

The stop screw for the primary throttle plate can be tightened to raise the idle by opening the throttle plate more. The screw on the BAC valve also supplies additional air. There is a variable resistor and initial set function in the Rtek which you can use. If you adjust your throttle plates with the stop screw make sure you check the TPS voltage afterwards. Sometimes it only takes a small adjustment of the stop screw to signifiicantly raise the idle.

 

Is that the only screw used to adjust the idle (if emission are removed)? I recall using a screw on the opposite side of the TB to adjust my idle.

 

To increase idle normally you open the throttle plates or add bypass air with the BAC valve screw. Technically there are other screws you could use (secondary throttle plate screw, fast idle screw) but I don't see why you would want to. There are a couple screws that affect the throttle plates but the one I pictured is the one normally used on an FC turbo TB. On the FD throttlebody the throttle plate screws are on the front.

On an FC turbo intake manifold, if you remove the BAC valve then you don't have an air bypass screw to adjust. The non turbos have the air adjusting screw on the top of the dynamic chamber. The FD throttlebody has the air adjusting screw between the throttlebody elbow studs on the bottom.

 

I got a chance to do some pulls on a Mustang dyno yesterday. The pull I did below was my last pull but I did 282 @ 6500 rpms @ 12.2 psi on my second run, they corrected it to 275 though. It looks like I needed to hold the pull longer (they were shutting me down around 6500 rpms), I thought my power would have died off by then but seems like the motor still had a lot more power to make.



I had it conservatively tuned at Rotorsports so as you can see my lead timing is very low. It can probably make 10-15 more hp with just timing adjustments alone. The only thing that bothers were my AFR's on the run I posted, they got very lean even though I pretty much have my injector map maxed at +34%, duty cycle never got over 80%....any ideas there



Here's a vid of the 2nd pull, the last number you see is 282 and it started rising pretty quickly, once again I think I shut her down too soon though.

 

Sweet! Thanks for posting that...

I have the same problem. It seems that the Fuel calculation is based on airflow, so once you've maxed your airflow reading, and actual airflow keeps increasing it doesn't calculate the additional fueling needs.

If you read some of the posts above, I unoffically came to the conclusion that the fuel map correction is just not enough to overcome the airflow reading vs actual airflow required to get the air to fuel mixture down. My solution is to raise fuel pressure(stock is about 30psi at Idle going to raise it to about 40psi) although I have not done this yet, and it will require tuning out the additional fuel in the entire map.

If you or anyone have any other good solutions I'd like to hear them.

 

Maybe rtek will chime in here and lend a hand...

 

Observed something odd yesterday. I went ahead and checked my timing maps, and there is no 8 or 9 degree advance anywhere on it, at full load it was supposed to be at 14-15 degrees all the way across. What would make the car retard the timing so much?

 

I'm not following you. The map says 15 degrees but you are logging 8?

Was your airflow reading maxed out?

 

I'm surprised that MAF modifications are not more prevalent. If you bypass a certain amount of air you can change the MAFs response while allowing more air in. Of course in doing so, you would need to retune your whole fuel map.

Anyone have a spare MAF they can send me?

 

What? Bypass air? I am curious about it but don't want to screw up the MAF or AFM. I have a similar AFM on my truck and the guy I bought it from said he would modify it for wheeling and it would run richer and have more power, but I don't know how he modified it.

From random website on 22re AFM:
"The AFM mod involves cutting the silicone seal on the black cover to gain access. Once inside, there's a "curly brace" looking metal clip in the upper left corner being held down by a Phillip's screw. Mark with nail polish or similar, the original position of at least one of the ends. Then, WHILE HOLDING THE LARGE GEAR WHEEL, loosen the screw allowing the metal clip to go slack. Turn the gear wheel clockwise to lean the running mixture, and counter-clockwise for richer. The idle mixture is largely unaffected by this adjustment. Do not adjust any more than 3 teeth in either direction with a stock system. Once you have the gear wheel where you want it, tighten the Phillip's screw again to make the metal clip hold the wheel in place. Supposedly, a stock system shouldn't need any adjustment, and won't benefit much from changes. It's a trade-off; leaner helps off-the-line, richer adds to the top-end."

"To control the movement of this flap/aramture, the AFM is fitted with a flat-wound spring that is used to apply tension to the flap. This spring is held in place, and adjusted, via a plastic gear and a wire "holder". When this gear is tightened (turned clockwise) relative to the flat wound spring inside of it, it becomes harder for the door to open, and this translates to a leaner mixture (more air needs to flow in to move the door by a given amount, meaning theat the mixture is leaner relative to its starting point before adjustment). Turning the gear counter-clockwise has just the opposite effect, as the looser gear lets more air in relative to "stock".

Remember:
Turning the gear CLOCKWISE LEANS OUT THE MIXTURE.
Turning the gear COUNTER-CLOCKWISE RICHENS THE MIXTURE

Generally speaking, each tooth of the gear is equal to about a 2% change in the transient mixture (with stock injectors)."

http://www.flickr.com/photos/7118909...7594284969847/

Sounds interesting... hmmm. I might give this a shot after winter...

I don't have a spare MAF unfortunately?

 

Yeah, my map says 14-15 degress at full load but my log was showing as low as 6 degress at peak torque and then went up to 7-8 degrees from there.

I didn't have my AFM clicked to be logged, a mistake I won't make again.

 

I'd be curious to know what your timing indexes were at that point to see if the cell you think it was using was really the cell it was using.


By bypassing a controlled amount of air, you essentially move the "range" of the MAF. But this also moves the low end too, so if done wrong you could adversely affect the idle and low throttle response.

 

Kudos for finding this. Now a maxed out AFM can have its spring tension adjusted in order to accommodate 500+ crank HP w/ the Rtek 2.1 Afterwards, move the fully enclosed AFM to the cool side of the IC and add AI. Nice!

 

Uhhh.. I wouldn't say that exactly... As turbo2ltr said, adjusting it too much can cause issues with drivability.

If you want to I say, "Go For IT!"

Please post your results...

RX7 SE: are you using Load based timing?

 

These MAF sensors are not made to be pressurized. They will no longer read accurately. They will be useless on the other side of the turbo. All these MAFs do is really measure air velocity through a pipe of a known cross section. It assumes that that air is at atmospheric pressure. If you start moving pressurized air through the pipe (say 1bar), then for the same air velocity, double the air is moving. But the MAF would be none the wiser.

 

Well that's the thing, I don't have a timing cell that's that low anywhere on the map, I do have some 6.3's in the vacuum areas but there's no way it should have been looking at the vacuum areas while registering boost!

Yup

 

Are the Load Based Map values the amount of Correction to the Stock Map? Might want to input the Map Based Timing maps posted earlier in this thread, so its set to a definite value at a given rpm/boost... It's a pain in the ***, but only takes like an hour and a half. I just sat in my garage with the key turned to on but w/o the engine running and pulled a bunch of fuses to reduce load on the batt and tweaked out on my palm pilot...

It seemed to have more torque in the bottom end after I did it too...

Someone mod your AFM and let me know how it affected Airflow readings and fueling!

 

I don't agree the AFM would be none the wiser, boosted/cooled air is denser air that's exerting a greater force on the flapper so I would expect the flapper to respond accordingly. I've seen several years ago on teamfc3s.org a 1/4 mile time slip posted along an '87TII configured this way that ran 12.6@116mph w/supplemental fuel @ 1 bar boost. I doubt that flapper wasn't reacting accordingly. Now, would I go this route? Likely not. If and when I upgrade to the Rtek 2.1 from my 1.8 and maxed out my AFM, I would slap back on my HKS AIC and program the 2.1 (for starters) to flat line the pulse width from around 10 psi boost (that's my programable FCD ) where the AIC would then kick in.

 

That's how I did it before but when I took it to Rotorsports to get it professionally tuned he prefered the load based timing and built a new map for it. He's got plenty more experience tuning rotaries than I do so I doubt I'll touch that map much if at all, just need to figure out why the car isn't reading from it correctly.

 

You still have the knock sensor installed? Did you log timing retard?

Is your air and water temp signals working and accurate?

While the numbers in the map are actual timing numbers, it's a base value that has other corrections applied to it before it is outputted, so you won't get the actual number out. And without confirming the actual table indexes, I wouldn't read too much into it.

 

I didn't log timing retard, I was under the impression that whatever I had in the map is what the car would do, woops.

Air and water temp signals appear to be working fine and not throwing any codes, they do have 190k+ miles on them though.

I'm not sure what you mean by table indexes.

 

Right from the RTEK Pocketlogger instructions/UG:

Table Indexes The two table index parameters allow you to log the X and Y index into the respective map. This is useful to easily see where to make changes in a table. If the Fuel Table index is checked, you will see two additional parameters being logged, one for the RPM index and one for the boost index. These number relate directly to the rows and columns of the fuel table. The Timing table index, when selected, will log either two or three parameters depending on the ECU:The load index of the timing table, and one or two RPM indexes. On the N332 ECU, the T-Indx RPM L relates to the 13 cells from 0 to 4096 RPM. Values will be 0 to 12. The T-Indx RPM H relates to the 7 cells above 4096. Values will be 0 to 6. All other ECUs only have one T-Index RPM parameter representing the full range of the timing table columns.

And Regarding Timing Retard:
Timing Retard: Degrees the ECU is retarding the timing due to knock

http://www.pocketlogger.com/instruct...cketlogger.pdf