Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

So is the AFM wide open at 715? or 26.3 lbs? it seems to be maxed out. (see log image attached above, purple line on the middle graph)

Does anyone know if this will be a issue when I turn up the boost?

Thanks

gxl90rx7

iTrader: (1)

95gnracer has some logs showing 900+ for airflow. But if you turn the key to ON and hold the afm flapper door all the way open, the log will show 700. but it is probably a function of boost/temp/rpm, so im pretty sure it maxes out in the 900's

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

what are your mods exactly???

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

680 pri 1000 cc sec, sus core air filter, Custom TID, SRT-4 IC mounted in front of radiator, stock port rebuilt S4 13bt, oil pellet, jetted eccentric shaft, Solid engine mounts, Hybrid t04b ?-trim s5 turbo w/ ported wastegate, oil filter gauge adapter, plx wideband o2, Rtek 2.1, ss oil cooler lines, emissions removed, TB modded, FD alt., Dual alt pully... Think thats about it for the engine...

Differential is out at the moment, Pinion seal is leaking, installing solid mounts and snubber because the tab on the Subframe sheared off. If anyone has any recommendations on a Boost controller, or one for sale, please let me know? Anyone have experience with Manual Boost controller?

drifting in drifting

iTrader: (11)

Yeah buy an electronic one so you can run a stable boost

RExy4jay

where'd you guys get your injectors? i have the 2.1 and i just rebuilt.....i'd like to at least run 4*720....but i'd really like to have 2*1000 secondaries. i'm just afraid to buy some of the injectors i've seen on the net, and the name brand bastards are horribly expensive. give me a heads up if you would.

great thread on the tuning too. i'm workin on the same thing. trying to get the lean spots outta the stock fueling.

Boosted11

iTrader: (11)

The price for rc engineering injectors aren't that bad?

gabs88gxl

iTrader: (3)

so will the 2.1 delete maf/afm cause i hate that thing hahahah...

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

nope. not as of now.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

Anyone have any ideas why my leading timing at idle would go -5 degrees sometimes? this causes my car to smell really bad and low idle. I will log the timing retard and see if maybe my knock sensor is picking up something... Idles great at at ~10 degrees advance.

solareon

iTrader: (1)

-5 degrees is the stock idle timing. Go back into idle setup when it drops into that mode and adjust the var res setting to smooth it out.

Did we ever figure out if the AFM tops out at certain range? I am having issues with my boost dropping from 15psi to 12 psi after 5700 rpms or so and I want to know if the AFM is just maxing out. I have a very large positive correction but am still seeing 11afrs up top.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

^ it could just be restriction in the stock turbine housing

solareon

iTrader: (1)

I think it's a coupler leaking at 14 psi and then stays leaking until the motor comes back into vacuum. When it spools up I hear a very large air leak kind of sound. Like when you open an air compressors dump valve

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

Yay!

Snagged a Greddy Profec-b for $100. Anyone ever use one?

Installing it, fixing my shitty wiring, and adding shift light (RTEK egr out) and taking my sweet *** time...

yomomspimp06

iTrader: (4)

i love this thread! learning so much keep the vids coming btw

Jimmy2222

iTrader: (3)

Great thread, really useful stuff here.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

Thanks...

I read back through and even watched the vids, Something strange I saw...

I recently noticed...
http://s272.photobucket.com/albums/j...t=P1015183.flv

Fuel Pressure being strange... I can't believe I didn't see it before. That gauge is being relocated. Fuel Pump being Rewired.

A quote from FC3spro.com,
"On FC3S turbos, the fuel pump sees two levels of voltage depending if the engine is in boost - the "low" voltage level runs the fuel pump circuit through a resistor to drop the voltage to 9-10VDC; the "high" voltage level run full, unmolested voltage to the fuel pump. The fuel pump also sees full voltage when cranking the starter. You need to have the turbo under boost to check to see if your fuel pump is getting full voltage. "

Maybe something wrong with the switching. At full boost the pressure seems to stabilize...

JCurry

iTrader: (6)

ya u should do the rewire for sure!! your pump isnt seeing the voltage that it should with stock wiring setup!

Nice thread and a fun looking road you were driving on in the video!

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

what i did to re wire my walbro, i just took the signal to my stock pump and hooked it to a relay, then the relay is wired it up to my pump straight from the battery so i get full power all the time.. i may have noticed that my car wastes a little more gas lol

on another note, i am getting my 2.1 in the mail tomorow and im juiced! wooo hooo and i would like to thank you for this great thread as is going to help me a whole lot because i plan to follow your footsteps and tune my "maniac 7" myself as well. one question.. do i need a basic tune for me to just start and run the car for the first time?

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

Car should start fine. Basically the ecu comes zero'd out. Fuel Correction is at zero across the board, timing is set to stock using the stock load based timing, but the map based timing requires you to do the entire map, expect to spend 1-2 hrs doing both the leading and split/trailing maps... I just pulled a bunch of fuses to reduce load on the battery, and sat in my garage inputting values.

Good luck and have fun!

PS: Start rich and work toward stoich.

arghx

iTrader: (3)

go right to boost based timing

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

ok, so go directly to boost based timing.. then do i have to change anything in order for me to start doing pulls to find out where i am in afrs?? i know that i should aim my afrs to 11.1 right? and as to timing, ive read here that the stock timing is too aggressive, so should i retard it where??? thanks in advance guys and sorry dnt mean to threadjack Nick_d_TII

turbo2ltr

iTrader: (1)

With the questions you are asking I do not recommend going right to boost based timing. It will require a complete remap of the timing and it does not sound like you are at the knowledge level that you could do that properly.

Nick_d_TII

iTrader: (6)

OK, Read Read Read. No, Do not go directly to boost based timing and start doing runs. The entire Timing maps (leading, split) both need to be inputted first. This takes like 1-2 hrs of you pluggin numbers into your palm with the car ignition in the run position(ecu powered up). I'm going to suggest you read up on timing, read this thread again it has some links to other timing threads. If you have a ported motor this may affect timing. You want to start out too rich, I'd suggest you crank up your fuel correction before doing pulls if your car is modified. The ecu comes zeroed out basically, so If you have a completely stock car sure you could plug it in and go, but otherwise you need to set it up for your setup before going out and doing pulls. This ecu is really easy to use, unlike a haltech that requires lots of setup before you can even fire the car. Read the entire RTEK user manual. I am in no way a professional, take all advice from this forum with a grain of salt and always be prepared for the worst. I don't accept any responsibilty for your actions and results, unless they're all positive.

Suggestive Step by step:
1) get the ecu installed, and go through the ecu setup on the palm and select the correct settings for your setup
2) leave the timing stock at first, start the car and check the timing with a timing light and set it correctly (cas adjustment)
3) (depending on level of mods) up your fuel correction in boost areas and if you feel inclined, input the timing maps detailed in page one of this thread (these are not vehicle specific, but I used them with no problems yet, but I'm -1 degree of nearly the entire map) (could be varified by egts/afrs?)
4) start out with just drivablity and get it driving good, step on the gas a little and see what happens, be sure to log. (afrs, boost, lead timing, temps, afm, rpm, + whatever else)
5) once you have everything going well, lay into it till redline, log.

Review logs and tune accordingly, just be sure your on the rich side when you start because if it goes lean under heavy boost your probably going to be needing new apex seals. Be conservative. Download the RTEK plviewer from pocketlogger.com so you can view logs on your computer. It makes it so much clearer.

Again, its your car, you tune it, and you blow it, it's your fault. But Good luck, I haven't blown mine.

No more thread jacking either... Kiddn... as long as its on topic.

Cleva Locc Dogg

iTrader: (2)

ok sweet man, so my mods are stock port s5 longblock, to4 turbo set up with 12psi wastegate, ebay intercooler, 750cc all around, modded tb and all emissions removed, cold air intake, 3" straight into 2.5" y pipe, innovate m.s. wideband o2, i actuallly did go ahead into boost based timing from the getgo, i feeel like all i need is a proper map to start with, then i can swich the timing.. and ya, ive spent a lot of hrs reading up on timing, but its never enough, it feels like i need a guide to load it up to my ecu, like, i understand it you know, as to fulll boost pulls, got it, start rich then log and tune.
question- does the parameters i input to the ecu, always stay in the computer? or do they erase when i unplug the palm? basically, do i always have to leave in the palm connected?