Stock ports. I pulled up the carpet and remembered what a pain in the *** it is to take off the metal ecu cover, and said 'eff' it. Maybe I'll do it tonight... after I change the fuel filter & plugs. I hope I get it fixed tonight.

Pissing me off, everything seems to be working perfectly fine, and everything reads out ok on the Palm...

 

how do you pop off the kick panel to pull the carpet back? i dont want to break the interior since mine is basically a virgin minus the radio surround.

I looked at the 3 little clip things and I wasnt sure how they are removed.

 

Most just pull out with gentle but firm force. Except the ones with the little button in the middle, in which case you just push the button.

 

can it be the air temp sensor?
Does the FC even have fuel enrichment for hot ambient temperature?
Yesterday temperature was around 70f, today it was 85f and I am running a lot leaner then yesterday at idle and at steady cruising speed

If the fc does have some kind of fuel enrichment for temperature differences, that sensor might be a problem and causing those lean points.

 

The training manual explains the use of the air temperature sensors. The IAT sensor in the elbow is for the BAC and hot start (fuel pressure regulator) solenoid. The air temperature in the AFM is used for the basic fuel calculation.

 

And yes, getting to the ECU by just removing the kick panel is a challenge. I go further and remove the seat and the rocker panel trim cover making folding back of the carpet easier. However, the rocker pannel is on pretty good by metal clips (3 I recall) which I have removed to make the entire process as painless as possible. Once the ECU exposed, I also find it easier to unbolt it 1st before unplugging the harness.

 

So, it's not the fuel filter or the plugs. It seems to run Ok at revs(random misses/slight leans) but heavily misses & goes lean at idle.
Thanks for the help everyone!

 

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...4#post10639784

Please reply to this thread if you have any additional suggestions regarding the Missing/Lean issues I've been having.

 

Thanks for All the Help everyone!~ Turns out there was a bolt or something in the back of the SSQV BOV and it is gone, creating a vacuum leak... one AFM, plugs and fuel filter later LoL!

 

Just think of it as a tune up for your car.

 

Interesting find, I think i'm gonna look at mine now too lol. Glad you found it!

 

Nevermind... think one of my primary injectors is hosed. Runs good above 4k.. but intermittent BS lean missing hesitation at idle/cruise below 4k. Seems to Idle fine sometimes and run ok, then turn the corner and it goes wack.

 

Check your codes when it goes wack..Mine just gave me a 'trailing coil failure' when mine was choking yesterday.

 

OK. so I'm pretty sure I found it. Pulled the UIM & TB found a vacuum line for the Oil Metering not hooked up to anything (wierd, maybe it's been that way?), so I plugged it (nipple on the inside of the LIM, not the FPR vacuum). Pulled the injectors both tested out ok @ 2.5 ohms. Put the Injectors back in and had some serious fuel leaks. The o-rings on them were hosed and replaced them, no leaks.

Reloaded my old map. Back to Lean Idle. Switched to 550x720 and it was better. Still had issues at idle, so I richened up the -10 -8 fuel correction maps, and seems to be doing good. Boosted and drove fine, idles a little rich.

I did boost it and saw an airflow reading of 857 at 10.7 psi & a stinking rich 10 AFR.

More to come this week! Happy memorial day!

 

I think maybe I had some issues the entire time, but I was able to tune them out. I dunno?

Drove to work today, and it ran great. Still being a little lean at times (low rpm cruise), but I'll work the cruise/vacuum area's in the fuel map this week. The stupid startup map got zero'd when I reloaded my map, kinda freaked me out when it wouldn't start! Hopefully get some good logs this week if the rain goes away. Excited to see that the AFM isn't maxing out at 715! Yay!

 

So I'm down to about -1.9 correction at -10 (or 1 boost index) and there seems to still be some leanness. Which seems kind of weird since I'm running 680cc's on the 550cc setting? (20% larger) Seems that it runs lean in the 2-4 Boost index (-8 to -2? in/hg?) too?

I'm still a little unsure if there are any other problems causing the lean idle/cruise.

When I loaded my maps it was set to 720x720 and the fuel correction for the vacuum areas was really low, like -20 correction, but it used to run good on that map? I had to set it to 550x720 to get it to run/idle right, which makes sense. Although the VARRES was set to 0 and I have turned it up to ~2, but it doesn't really seem to change anything (0-5)? As in my previous post, I'm not sure if that map is kinda hosed because there may have been issues that I was able to tune around??

I will do some research and look back at some old logs and see if any values seem different? I will try playing with some settings and richening things up. If I can't get this bitch running right, I'm parting it out. Jus kiddin..

Really wish we had a tool to compare/view maps on the PC.

Runs good under pressure.

 

So it's still idling lean, and you can move the variable resistor and not see a change? If you haven't tried reinstalling the pocketlogger software on the palm, give it a shot. I just dealt with that exact problem. The variable resistor works again for me. I can adjust idle mixture from ~10 to ~15 AFR if I want to.

If you have 680cc primaries on the 720/720 setting with -20 correction in the low RPM/high vacuum cells, you're going to have some serious lean issues during cruising. The 02 sensor will fight your adjustments, but it seems like it would be erratic. Your injectors would be 6% smaller than the setting, add the -20 correction and you have 26% less fuel than stock, right?

680cc primaries on the 550/720 setting with -20 correction at low RPM/high vacuum should put you at nearly stock fuel levels.

Have you tried just using the 720/720 setting with +0-6% added below the secondary transition? (to correct for the smaller 680cc primaries)

I'm currently using 720/880cc injectors on the 720/720 setting (with no corrections outside of boost), and it runs almost perfectly under vacuum & at idle. The only thing I'm contending with is a little stumble between deceleration and very low throttle input. I'm hoping a TPS adjustment will have an effect, since the 02 sensor seems to fight any small fuel corrections I make under vacuum.

 

I will try reloading the software, tonight, but I've got to save my maps and copy them so they don't get erased. How do you copy them back to the palm? Or do I just reload the software and all my maps will not be deleted from the palm? I just don't want to lose my maps, mainly the timing maps.
I've currently got V2.1.0 build 4 on my palm, the download is for V2.1.3 build 5, probably a good idea to update. ???

I've noticed that my TPS is at about 18% at Idle and when trying to set the VARRES it says the TPS is out of spec? Maybe it needs a slight adjustment, even though it hasn't been messed with at all? It doesn't seem too bad today, and seems to run great at low rpm when it's still cold. ? I used to have it Idle around 1100-1200 now it wants to idle at 1000, but bounces around a little till it settles into the -5 idle timing.

I'm might be making this out to be more of an issue when it's really not. More logging and reviewing. AFR's seem good at 10psi.

 

Weird, my TPS is at 26% and idle is right below 900 rpms AFR's in the high 11's ...Not saying mine is right or yours is wrong lol

 

When uninstalling and reinstalling the RTEK software, do I have to back up my maps or will they stay on the palm? If they are deleted, how do I copy them back to the palm? Will my old maps work with the new software?

 

What special edition s4 n/a came w/ 680cc injectors? I thought they were all 460cc ?

 

'84-'85 GSL-SEs used a pair of 680cc injectors instead of the 4 injectors found on FCs.

When I reloaded the the pocketlogger software, my maps and settings were unaffected. They must be stored separately.

The idle setting wants the TPS to be at 20% exactly. I just brought mine down from 27% to 20% to maybe fix a light throttle issue. We shall see, but the engine idled just fine at 27%. I have played with the throttle stop though.

 

Well, the cap I put on the nipple on the center iron popped off. A very audible hiss could be heard when I got my head under the hood.

I pulled the UIM & TB off and plugged it again but I secured it with a ziptie this time.
Shitty thing is, the bolt on the UIM, the thru bolt, pulled the threads right out of the LIM. LoL, it's just been one of those weeks. So... I'll get that fixed tomorrow, hopefully just drill & tap.

 

Krazy Glue. Seriously. I have seen Krazy Glue hold a properly-sized vacuum cap to 30+ pounds of boost.

 

^Great Idea! It hasn't popped off yet, but I'm still having issues. I was going to take off all of the couplers and check them out, and I'm going to reload the RTEK software, but I need to backup my maps and **** (I know RR suggested that I don't need to).
I've had issues reloading maps(fails multiple times before actually loading) and the settings changing, ie not set to map based timing, but it seems my timing maps are there, and the fuel startup map zeroes out. Maybe the new software fixes all that.

Same effing BS, runs great cold, and rich, and no hesitation, but once it warms up it starts running lean in vacuum and closed loop causing surging and hesitation, boost seems ok.