For that 10.6 AFR spot, I'd probably do a little more testing to gather more data. I like to log both the boost index and RPM index, then put all the AFRs into a table. Average all the data points, and you'll get an idea of how it typically runs at that RPM/boost level.

Like this: https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...4&d=1306736058
This is with 720/880cc injectors a few weeks ago while I was fine tuning it.


I'd also suggest logging the secondaries flag. Stock is at 3800 RPM, but you can adjust it.

 

^ basically what he said. I looked at it briefly sorry I didn't get back to you bikeboy...



I've decided to part out my car. I've been thinking about it for some time now and it really saddens me to do it, but I'm planning on bigger and better things.. or cars. It has been a great car, and I've learned soo much from all of you guys and the forums. I will truly miss the Turbo Rotary and it will always have a place in my heart. I appreciate all the help and information you guys have contributed to this thread and providing the answers to the questions I asked.

I will still frequent the Rx-7club forums and wish you all the best of luck with your 7's.

 

dam that stinks, thanks for making this thread and helping out new comers to the rtek like me.

 

....when do you plan on parting it out?

 

made a restrictor for the boost line, and added a little fuel in at about 5k and up and did a 3rd gear pull. felt strong, and the fuel i added did help compared to the little 3rd gear burst i had in my last log. but i ran lean past 5800 rpm it doesnt seem that bad, just need some more fuel up top i think. opinions please

also i thought my afm maxed out at 880 but i hit 902. log runs on for a while as i forgot to stop it haha

- Shane

 

^ Bikeboy Will check it out when I get home tonight.

As for the part out, I have a few busy weeks/weekends ahead, so in a couple of weeks. I plan on going out this sunday for a last little drive.

 

Curious. Is the net $ gain from parting out vs. selling outright truly worthwhile when considering the disassembly labor?

 

^Gotta be more than what I could get out of it whole. My time is pretty much free, disassembly is usually the easy part.

 

^This. I think it looks pretty good. 90% D/C at 3700, might want to lower the staging to like 3500 or 3300.

 

thanks for looking at it nick. i agree with lowering the injector staging im going to try that out, also i made a much more drastic fuel map that i need to take a log of when i get the time.

-Shane

 

took a 4th of july log haha. I made some pretty drastic fuel changes on my fuel map but i didn't see much change in my log compared to my last one. i watched my wideband pretty well through the whole pull and i saw 10 afr and towards the end of the pull 11.5- 11.7 afr. the palm scaling must be off because its reading 12 + afr im going to try to figure out why the scaling is off, and mount a camera next run for verification.

-Shane

 

Well... my turbo is blowing oil...
Any progress anyone? Vids?

 

your car still alive ? ^ i changed up my fuel map and added a lot more fuel but havent logged since then. the car is running great ! i went to the local autox and had a blast, the power range of my turbo is perfect. i picked up a ton if suspension goodies to chase down the class leaders.

 

cooler weather is here ! and the car seems to be running more lean than normal. i didnt log the pull, but i saw 12.0 and 12.2 on my WB at probably 6k rpm ( around 10psi of boost ). i guess i am going to have to tune for this weather now? and it will run richer when its hot out? a friend mentioned that is what the IAT sensor is for, which might be fine on a stockish car but im guessing not significant enough for mine.

opinions please !

Shane

 

Not sure if you still have the ATP(atmospheric pressure) sensor still hooked up. You could lower your elevation if you have the ATP selected for ext. sensor and see if it helps...

 

went autoxing today ! had fun but didnt have the car aligned yet... and i could feel it. Engine wise everything looked and felt great. I added some extra fuel in some spots

here are some vids !

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nc8O-94EzTI

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mhWlP...el_video_title

 

sweet vids!

 

Nice! Like that roof mounted cam view!

 

I know I've been MIA for quite some time, but I want to give you guys a little update on my car. Looks like a few of you have been pretty active during my absence.

Sorry to hear about your turbo nick! I went through 3 before getting the BNR. Turns out, I kept blowing them because of the Mazdacomp oil pressure regulator combined with a lack of a restrictor on the supply line to the turbo. Make sure you guys run a restrictor!

Finally, got the BNR Stg. 4 put on the car and had to change my maps around. Here is a screen shot of my most recent datalog. FYI, my WB02 reads 0.5 high or lean than actual, confirmed this with the innovate gauge. Also the factory boost sensor is reading 1 psi lower than my boost controller and Defi gauge.





For you guys out there looking to upgrade to a hybrid setup from stock, I can say the stg. 4 is less responsive than my older T04B V Trim setup. Full boost went from 3.5k to about 4.5k; maybe a little sooner but between 4-4.5k. Boost overall is about 2-3 psi higher with the stg. 4 even towards redline when the boost starts to drop off. For an all around fun to drive setup on the street and for mountain runs, I prefer and would recommend a stage 2 setup, because it is more responsive and feels quicker.

My car is probably faster with the stg 4, but it just doesn't feel as fun, especially up in the mountains. The power band is just too late for tight roads or autocrosses, but on a big track it will probably be fun. I can't wait until I can take her out to big willow.

 

Appreciate you sharing this info. You're saving us many dollars by not going to a "bigger is better" unit (no pun intended). I can sleep better at night my Super V + Stage III turbine is plenty for the street.

 

The problem is that you aren't running enough boost for the improvement in top end to be worth the loss of mid range. I've never had a BNR stage 4 but I have had a full T4 60-1, basically the BNR stage 4 with bigger housings. I ran it at 10psi for a little while and I was disappointed because it didn't have that punchy midrange you get with a stock turbo or smaller hybrid.

Turn it up to about 14-14.5psi as measured on the Rtek (which is admittedly maxing out the stock MAP sensor) and you will be happier with it. BUT it still requires a different driving style. You have to keep it tach'd up to about 5000-7000rpm, and even then you do have less mid range and little low end. The thing is, the T2 gearing is close enough that you can keep it in its powerband pretty easily, although you will be shifting more. The bigger turbos are more suited for highway pulls, but that doesn't mean you can't have fun on twisty backroads driving once you get used to it.

 

Club, yeah if I were to do it all over again; I would get a T04B compressor housing with a super H trim compressor wheel and clip the stock turbine wheel. A few things that I like about the T04B setup versus the 60-1 is the 3" inlet versus the 2.75" and the instant boost response on the freeway when cruising at 80 mph; an absolute terror zero lag. =D

The 2.75" inlet really screwed me up because 3" is a lot more common and the hassle of having to switch to a smaller OD.

So, for those of you guys looking to go the hybrid route I really recommend a stage 2. This is basically a T04B compressor housing, V or H Trim compressor wheel and a clipped stock turbine. An upgraded wastegate actuator is a must!!! Either the HKS unit or the one Brian puts on his turbo's. In addition, I would thermal coat the center section, turbine housing and the factory manifold; the down pipe would be a good idea also. This really reduces the amount of under hood temps and it is supposed to help with spool up time by keeping the heat inside the exhaust.

If you are starting with an S5 turbo I don't feel porting the wastegate is mandatory, I never noticed or logged any boost creep with my stage 2. If your worried about how long the turbo will survive, keep your boost between 10-12 psi and definitely run a oil feed restrictor. I killed 3 turbos without having one in place because the oil pressure was just way too high without it.

Now don't get me wrong, the stage 4 is a great setup and Brian's work at BNR is top notch. The power is extremely linear and like I said before my peak power is probably higher. It just takes awhile to get into the sweet spot of the turbo, definitely have to run 14-16 psi and there is still a little turbo lag in on-off throttle modulation or transitions even above 4.5k. The fitment of his turbo is much better than my previous setup, basically stock location; with my first hybrid the compressor housing was a lot closer to the air pump making installation more difficult. Both turbos are bolt on, but it just took a little finess to get everything bolted up; especially the oil drain line.

 

Arghx, I definitely agree that you need to run a minimum of 14 psi, with 16 psi being preferred; which is where I have everything set to. The driving style is also very different and requires better management of the right foot.

Another difference with a full on turbo setup versus a hybrid is the benefit of having a more efficient design and longer runs to maintain velocity which helps with spool. I was speaking strictly from a hybrid/stock manifold setup.

In regards to gearing, you definitely have to think about where you are at. I am currently running a s4 tranny, so my 5th gear puts me higher in the rev range versus a S5 which is a smaller ratio. This on the freeway will make a difference because now instead of cruising at 3.5k you are at 3k.

If it weren't for being in california, I would be running a GT35R with a equal length, twin scroll manifold. But with smog, cops and all the other BS it is not worth the hassle; unless I was running a full on race car. On the street, its not always about peak hp but power under the curve, torque and response. Even on race cars, the amount and length of useable power is more important to winning than peak HP. Look at re-amemiya's cars usually he is running less peak hp, but still wins races in japan whether if its gt300 or gt500. Just like the saying goes here in the states torque wins races and horsepower sells product.

 

Good info!

I'm currently building a hybrid, but its closer to a BNR stage 3 (60-1 comp wheel) I'm unsure of whether I will clip the stock turbine wheel or not. I want to maximize response, but I also don't want excessive boost creep. I will be running a screamer pipe built into the backing plate, so hopefully that will help.

I think part of the reason the stage 4 is slower to spool is because of the extra mass of the p-trim wheel. The tradeoff being that it is more efficient/effective at capturing exhaust energy, resulting in higher peak hp #s.

I if can hit 350whp w/ decent spool characteristics (read: more like stage 2 than stage 4) I'll consider it a success.

 

My stage 4 builds boost slowly, but as arghx said, its better utilized at 14+psi and on stetches of road. I have the s4 stage 4 with no twinscroll, compared to the s5 version people say it actually spools faster because of the divided s5 manifold.

The reason as to why it spools slower is because of the clipped ptrim wheel. because it is clipped more gas volumn is basically escaping between the blades, thus not energizing the wheel to spin. Though the benefit of a clipped wheel comes at high rpm where the gas has high velocity and volumn to spin the wheel faster since it has less surface area to hit on the wheel.

The stage 4 is definitely suited for highway pulls. It will hold that boost all the way to redline. I ran mines at 10 psi at the track and its half a second slower then my stock turbo at 12psi. On the highway the difference between 10 and 14 psi is dramatic. This weekend I am trying to hit 17 psi at the track. My map sensor max reading is 15.1psi so I would have to compensate on the rtek since it only adjust up to 14 psi