^ Been running the first Arghx timing map for over a year & it's been running great, but now I think I have an leak after the AFM or something and it's running all lean and shitty. You could probably squeeze a little more timing in, but I wouldn't risk it personally.

I was sitting at a stop light and it seemed the vacuum would stay steady and it would idle fine, but then it would slowly go lower and lower and start running crappy. Seems it stays rich at lower rpm but gets really lean while accelerating under vacuum and runs pretty rough (lean) at times under vacuum only. Any Idea's? Going to look for leaks this weekend, seems to boost fine though. Just started doing this out of the blue, could have boosted it and popped a vacuum cap off or ???

 

Take a look at your MAF, I've gone through 2 of them in the past 3 years... and thats what happened to me both times... it slowly runs leaner and eventually you won't be able to floor it or even rev in netural without it leaning and chocking. Yours might be a differenct problem, but this is what I've encountered in the past.

Calin

 

Stock intercooler? full 3 inch exhaust with no cat?

Internet tuning of timing is hardly an exact science, but I will say this: If it is stock intercooler, I'd say it's fine but running 15 split in all boost cells would help safety. Also run 9 heat range leading plugs. If you have an FMIC you could even add maybe 2 degrees on the leading side, but I would feel more comfortable trying that on a dyno to see if it picks up more power. I think the s5 knock sensor is loggable. Is the knock sensor picking up anything?

Just as a reminder... from what I have seen timing, fuel system failures, and overboost blow turbo rotary motors more than anything else.

 

Agree. I would surely try to rule out check the AFM. Is the flapper being restricted from opening smoothly and fully? Is the voltage signal from the flapper when fully open = Vref (5V?)? Is the resitance on the air temp sensor per spec? Is the MAP sensor's voltage output per manifold Hg/psi correct? A thought: Could the FPR be acting erratic causing fuel psi to drop when it's leaning out?

 

Well, I will get it in the garage and poke around this weekend. Fuel pressure is fine verified on gauge & acts normal. One thing I can think of, since you guys are saying AFM, is that I have plumbed the evaporative system (top and bottom crank case vents tee'd together then tee'd into the charcoal canister vent through a catch can, then into tee'd the intake before the AFM to suck the fumes into the intake before the AFM, kinda like the stock system) so it could have sucked some condensed evaporation(raw fuel/water?) in and effed up the AFM. There is a possibility of it sucking crap in from teh catch can.

Thanks guys!

 

If you look at basically every AFM/MAF based engine, the any crankcase ventilation or evaporative emissions are introduced AFTER the airflow meter so nothing disturbs the sensor.



That's how it is set up from the factory. The AFM should be measuring fresh air.

 

got the leading timing map arghx posted on the first page in my palm.... i super under estimated the difficulty of plugging those in lol. i was in my car for a good 5 hours, and i still have to enter the split map. but i do appreciate having a map to plug in though im worried about losing it all though. im hot syncing to the palm desktop successfully it tells me. but i was kind of expecting it to unload a ton if info but i dont see it. i have my progress so far saved on the palm.

 

It is tedious, but I noticed a substantial difference in power and driveability when I plugged a slight variation of arghx's maps in.

 

deffinetly tidious. it plays games with me either a unexpected size or it all of the sudden flashes and my whole map disappears, sometimes it comes right back. and sometimes it doesnt .

I got my trailing map plugged in today it was a rainy cold day, so a good day for it. i almost killed my battery lol but its charging now. hopefully it works good ! and theres a mazda meet tomorrow so maybe ill get some logs.

 

couldn't get it to start. then i looked at my cranking map and it wasn't there lol put i curve in it and she fired right up and ran just fine idling and then i took her for a spin. ran great, felt like it gained some power, felt torquey, and sounded good. had some traction problems as it has been raining a ton this weekend. now what kind of wideband do i need to get? because my lc1 db gauge has lost pretty much all of its leds and had been in my car on all the time for a good 10k mi.

 

Oops. Yea, it's going through the AFM. I had a busy weekend and going to pull the AFM off tonight... Hopefully, I can spray it out with some electrical cleaner and it'll work fine.

 

i would be more worried with rerouting it after the AFM.

 

I have a FMIC, full open 3" no CAT, I run 9 range platinum NGKs all around. I only plan on running 10-11psi... I'm always paranoid about low rpm/high gear/boost situations.

PS. I think I'm running 10 split in all cells.

Thanks

 

The Rtek disables the overboost fuel cut but you can set your map to retard timing drastically for say 14psi and higher boost. Set it to something like 5 leading with 15 split. You can also set the fuel maps to dump in fuel. If you have an electronic boost controller there is usually an overboost protection mode that will disable the solenoid when you overboost. That won't protect you from a melted wastegate hose but it is still another layer of protection.

All cells? I wouldn't run 10 split when you aren't in boost. It's not a huge deal but I can see that hurting response a little and possibly raising EGT during cruising. Look at how the stock load-based timing maps are. Also, take a look at the trailing timing maps I have posted.

 

Perhaps this is my problem!?!

I have been trying to solve this leaning out in boost issue for months! I've regrounded EVERTHING, swapped the injector pins, verified injector pulses, added fuel to the map in all boost areas, raised fuel pressure, pressure tested the intake track and IC and nothing seems to fix it.

Its perfectly fine in vaccum and even at 1-3 psi, but any higher and it just leans out (20+ afr) and its actually been gradually getting worse (it used to boost to 5psi before leaning.

I was thinking about swapping in an s5 afm since it flows better and seems to be of a much better design, has anyone used one w/ the rtek before?

 

its pretty interesting that you can swap Afm's. k tune is using that fd afm. idk about a s5 afm, but if mine goes bad i will probably swap my s4 one out.

looking at getting a aem uego wideband, looks fairly straight foreward, and only has 2 hours on it. for $150 anyone have any gripes about this system?

 

Mine was havin a hard leaning out problem a year or so ago and I fixed it by wiring my pump to 12v all the time and running a new oxygen sensor line from the sensor to my lc-1 wideband.

 

I am also running Arghx's timing maps and wow it seriously takes hours to enter everything. I think it took me 4-5 hours with a nice break between leading and split. It feels great after though. Thanks again Arghx! Swapping AFM's is an interesting thought too. I am running no BOV and the only thing that annoys me is that my S4 AFM flapper taps a few times when shifting. I am thinking with another style AFM it wouldn't do this.

 

sounds like you are in the same boat i was in lol. mines running good with those maps. now fuel... i have my aem uego wideband coming in sometime next week and plant to have it hooked up soon. i feel like i have plenty of fuel (10 ish afr's ) judging by the innovate WB, any advice on taking out fuel people? im going to dgrrx this coming weekend and will probably be trying to do some fuel tunning.


- Shane

 

It seems the AFM is hosed. Temp circuit has infinate resistance... everything else seems to be check out ok, kinda hard testing the AFM fully opened though.

I cleaned it out with Electrical cleaner and it ran fine until it warmed up, then 14-15 afrs and miss fires... Lame.

Looking to get one... I'm going to crack it open and check it out, maybe I can fix it?

 

Umm... I have a N326 AFM. Is that for a TII??? Maybe that's why the AFM maxes at 715...

 

326 is an NA.

 

Ha ha!! I've been running it the whole time! Seemed to work just fine until lately! So what one do I need? NXXX? Maybe I can get a turbo one! and Turn up the boost!? Tha'd be sweet!

Any wiring diagrams for swapping a s5 AFM to s4? Or where I can get a S4 turbo one!?

 

You should always stick with the AFM for the ECU you have. I can't help you on where to get one though, sorry.

 

S4 TII would be N318.