pinning dowlling or studs
06-03-11, 09:39 PM
#3
it depends on the studs used.
i would recommend studs over dowelling but i have plenty of dowels lying around, it pays me labor $ to dowel and i often do not build engines that produce enough HP to break into the territory where additional dowels begin to flex.
if a manufacturer can't give you tensile strength specs then i would move on to those who can.
dowels work fine for the 400-800WHP range, beyond that i would get a high tensile large diameter stud kit. if the studs aren't much thicker than the stock tension bolts, ignore them.
neither is really necessary for these engines pushing these levels:
up to '87- under 400WHP
88-91 - under 450WHP
93-95 - under 550WHP
if you break an iron then something else was bound to break if under those HP levels and the result was a failed iron. plenty of people have pushed well beyond those rules of thumb without any issue.
i would recommend studs over dowelling but i have plenty of dowels lying around, it pays me labor $ to dowel and i often do not build engines that produce enough HP to break into the territory where additional dowels begin to flex.
if a manufacturer can't give you tensile strength specs then i would move on to those who can.
dowels work fine for the 400-800WHP range, beyond that i would get a high tensile large diameter stud kit. if the studs aren't much thicker than the stock tension bolts, ignore them.
neither is really necessary for these engines pushing these levels:
up to '87- under 400WHP
88-91 - under 450WHP
93-95 - under 550WHP
if you break an iron then something else was bound to break if under those HP levels and the result was a failed iron. plenty of people have pushed well beyond those rules of thumb without any issue.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 06-03-11 at 09:47 PM.
06-03-11, 09:51 PM
#5
well if you're curious you can call Goopy and see if their bolt kit is what they used in their 1086WHP 13B.
http://goopyperformance.com/content/engine-bolts
ideally, these are very similar to dowelling your engine but do require machining.
http://goopyperformance.com/content/engine-bolts
ideally, these are very similar to dowelling your engine but do require machining.
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 06-03-11 at 09:58 PM.
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06-04-11, 12:26 PM
#8
a good option http://turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=1...Studs are compatible with OEM or aftermarket flywheels. ... these studs will do little if you detonate hard enough . i am getting them for the torque strength . i will pinn the engine also. roberto in p.a. will do the job
06-04-11, 12:38 PM
#9
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a good option http://turblown.net/store/index.php?productID=1...Studs are compatible with OEM or aftermarket flywheels. ... these studs will do little if you detonate hard enough . i am getting them for the torque strength . i will pinn the engine also. roberto in p.a. will do the job
06-04-11, 12:38 PM
#10
06-04-11, 04:22 PM
#12
i kind of laughed when i read it too, i know pineapple claims it helps solidify the engine but IMO it mainly just helps the FD pan stay sealed as it is known to have sealing issues at the motor mounts after only a few heat cycles.
bolting a mild piece of steel to the bottom of the engine hardly helps solidify it against the horsepower levels that are being talked about here.
and yes, many people have pushed 750WHP+ out of the stock REW keg without studs or pinning. i do tend to believe that this is more apt to be true with an engine that has not recently been rebuilt as the metals seem to have been bonded to help keep the motor from twisting on older seasoned motors.
06-04-11, 05:00 PM
#16
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If it helps any what am trying to do, I recently got my old fd back and getting a friends old set up (smoking93rx7) he had broke 2 plates. I just would like to do this build wright and not have to go back. Set up is lt16 jay tech set up and s475. No sure what fuel set up I will use either it was on a a1000
06-04-11, 05:31 PM
#18
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how does the oil pan brace help with this? lol
i kind of laughed when i read it too, i know pineapple claims it helps solidify the engine but IMO it mainly just helps the FD pan stay sealed as it is known to have sealing issues at the motor mounts after only a few heat cycles.
bolting a mild piece of steel to the bottom of the engine hardly helps solidify it against the horsepower levels that are being talked about here.
and yes, many people have pushed 750WHP+ out of the stock REW keg without studs or pinning. i do tend to believe that this is more apt to be true with an engine that has not recently been rebuilt as the metals seem to have been bonded to help keep the motor from twisting on older seasoned motors.
i kind of laughed when i read it too, i know pineapple claims it helps solidify the engine but IMO it mainly just helps the FD pan stay sealed as it is known to have sealing issues at the motor mounts after only a few heat cycles.
bolting a mild piece of steel to the bottom of the engine hardly helps solidify it against the horsepower levels that are being talked about here.
and yes, many people have pushed 750WHP+ out of the stock REW keg without studs or pinning. i do tend to believe that this is more apt to be true with an engine that has not recently been rebuilt as the metals seem to have been bonded to help keep the motor from twisting on older seasoned motors.
06-04-11, 05:52 PM
#19
I ran 1/2" oversized studs on an FD motor. The motor detonated due to a plugged fuel filter and cracked the rear iron. After pulling the motor and disassembling it the rear iron actually had broken into two pieces. While inspecting the carnage i noted on the flywheel side of the plate the bosses where the nuts sit on were very thin (as little as .080" in places). Removing that much material greatly weakens the boss IMO. Adding extra dowels however don't machine deep enough into the rear iron to get into the thinner area where the nut/bolt would seat.
06-04-11, 09:28 PM
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I ran 1/2" oversized studs on an FD motor. The motor detonated due to a plugged fuel filter and cracked the rear iron. After pulling the motor and disassembling it the rear iron actually had broken into two pieces. While inspecting the carnage i noted on the flywheel side of the plate the bosses where the nuts sit on were very thin (as little as .080" in places). Removing that much material greatly weakens the boss IMO. Adding extra dowels however don't machine deep enough into the rear iron to get into the thinner area where the nut/bolt would seat.
